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Answer
Thank you for sharing your experience with us. There are some people who discount the dangers of euphorbias and your story is just one more proof of how careful we have to be around these plants. Thank goodness you had glasses on which avoided any of the white sap getting in your eyes.
Here's hoping your doctor can suggest something that will clear up the rash sooner than later.
29.6.09
Yvonne M. - USA
Answer
This looks like the flower of Disocactus phyllanthoides - formerly Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. It is said this plant first flowered in the garden of Château de Malmaison, belonging to the late Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais which would explain some of the popular names such as German Empress, Deutsche Kaiserin, Giant Empress, Drottningkaktus (Swedish for Queen's Cactus). This story could be a myth, however.
This cactus was called Nopalxochitl by the Aztecs with explains the former generic name Nopalxochia.
The soil should be on the acid side and the plant be given regular water and doses of fertilizer in summer. Best kept relatively cool and dry in winter, 10-15°C (50-59°F). Plants can flower more than once a year but main flowering time is spring.
Repot into fresh soil every couple of years. Some shade in spring and summer should be given to protect from direct sun. Sunshine in winter when the sun is not as strong is okay.
Nice photos, Yvonne. Thanks for sharing.
23.6.09
Answer
It's very difficult for me to know if something is wrong without being able to see the problem in this case. It may not even be a problem. Sometimes in watering the base of a plant gets splashed with a little dust or soil from the soil and that can discolor the base of the plant. If it's a matter of rot beginning then the base will be soft to the touch.
With regard to the pot, this plant has what we call a taproot. A taproot is a somewhat straight tapering root that grows vertically downward. It forms a center from which other roots sprout sideways. Plants with a taproot need a pot that is deeper than wider to give that taproot space to grow. I think that is more important than the color of the pot.
All astrophytums need a sunny situation and a prolonged period being dry at lower temperatures in winter if they are to be at their best during the summer and produce a good show of flowers.
Great care should be taken not to over water them because of their long, fleshy taproot which will rot if the soil remains wet for too long a time.
If you could take a photo of the base of the plant so I could see what it looks like I might be able to help further.
7.6.09
Answer
I'm not sure if you plan to include some cacti in your collection as well as some of the "other" succulents. If you include cacti you could try Rebutia, Gymnocalycium, Epiphyllums and hybrids. In the other succulents Haworthia, Gasteria and Aloe do well in bright light but not full sun. Succulents not wanting full sun nevertheless need very bright light.
3.6.09
Answer
I am pleased that you are pleased. Sorry to say I have no back issues available. Once sold out they were not printed again. The cost to do that and the increasing cost of postage just did not make it feasible.
3.6.09
Update
As mentioned below, the morning after contact with the donkey tail
euphorbia - red welts on the side of my face, tender, rough prickly
skin, though not stinging like nettles.
Day 2 better, welts died down, skin not as prickly.
Day 3 more improvement, still patchy red, but skin feel more normal.
Much better.
I never put a thing on it, no cortisone cream nor ice....
Good thing I didn't rub my eyes with my hand!
Answer
I'm so sorry that happened to you. Hopefully the rash will settle and go away soon.
Let me know how you make out will you? It will be interesting to know. Very happy we had the information you wanted.
2.6.09
Linda O - USA
Answer
Epis prefer to be pot bound. Why do you think they need repotting? Can you send me a photo?
Maybe they are not flowering for other reasons. You can find those reasons in the article I have on this web site. Did you see it?
You can really repot them any time if you don't disturb the roots too much. You can put them all in one pot but you may be sorry later. They look much better allowed to grow on their own to their own natural shape.
I'm afraid your plants are in very bad condition and that's why they don't flower. They look like they have burned up/dried out in sunshine. These plants should never be put in direct sun.
They should be repotted every two or three years at the most into fresh soil mix. All plants need food and soil that old has nothing left in it to feed the plants. I think at this point all you can do it take cuttings of any 'green' stems, let the cut end dry up and callous over and pot up and hope they root .. to start new plants.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sun. Mist them until they root. Then read my article on Orchid Cacti and that will explain how to take care of them after that.
Good luck.
2.6.09
Answer
Bright shade is not enough light consequently the plant is stretching out as it grows, looking for more light. It is called etiolation. The fact that both epis are doing the same thing rather confirms that must be the problem
27.5.09
Answer
I never feel you are bugging me.
You can start seeds hydroponically .. BUT .. plants that start growing hydroponically and are then put into soil do not do as well as those started in soil and left there to grow on. The seedlings should be a good size before moving to individual pots. Most plants that get used to one environment prefer not to be moved to another environment, especially when they are delicate seedlings.
Lack of proper air circulation is the most frequent reason for fungus forming. When I grow from seeds, the minute they germinate I leave them in the air without a cover. Sometimes that's tricky if the seeds don't all germinate all at once but it certainly helps prevent many problems including damping off.
For seeds with hard coats, to get them to germinate faster, freeze them for 24 hours to help break down the hard coat and let moisture in.
Let me know if I can help further.
21.5.09
Priscilla P. - USA
Answer
Thanks for the nice comments.
I have the impression from the photos you sent that while the plant is healthy and blooming right now, it could do with more light. It is quite far from the windows and the stems appear to be shaded quite a bit. Insufficient light might be the reason why new skinny growth is appearing at the end of some stems.
New growth can also start at the ends of stems that have had their growing point broken by even the slightest injury such as chopping off a flower.
21.5.09
Answer
Just in case you are searching elsewhere for information, you might have better luck with the right spelling of the species name .. which should be "integerrima".
This plant normally has a rest in winter months and will go dormant dropping its leaves. It's kind of late for this to be happening now but if you had them shipped to you by mail, sometimes when plants go through a period of being in a dark box while being shipped by mail .. this period of darkness can trigger dormancy at any time.
There could be other reasons too such as the plants were not healthy to begin with. Assuming you bought them from a reputable person/dealer and the plants have just gone dormant again, there is no way to tell when they will come back into leaf. Keep them separate from the others, in a bright place and hold off watering until you see signs of life.
Glad you find our web site helpful and I look forward to having you share much more information in our on line Digest issues.
Jerry Lehmann, USA
I just read the question about Jatropha integerrima. I have had that plant in the past, and we use it for work as a disposable summer seasonal color plant. It does great in our heat, sun and humidity. It is a very profuse flowering plant over the summer. However, the few times I tried to over winter it indoors...it just craps out. Dead by spring. However, my huge clump of J. multifida just loses leaves. Looks like a pot-o-sticks by mid winter, and stays that way until it goes outside in the spring. I think J. integerrima is not as "succulent" as people are lead to believe.
14.5.09
Answer
Sansevieria was one of the plants included in a 2-year experiment performed by NASA to study a plant's ability to reduce air pollution. They found that certain tropical plants, commonly used as houseplants, were quite effective in removing formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethane from the air and replacing it with breathable oxygen. Related information may be found at: http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/ssctrs.ssc.nasa.gov/foliage_air/foliage_ai r.pdf
The Sansevieria was voted the Office Plant of the Year 2008 by the Dutch National Health Institute NIGZ, TNO Quality of Life and Applied Plant and Environment Research PPO. The panel of experts judged that "not only is the Sansevieria air purifying, but also nearly indestructible."
Research has shown that Sansevieria and can absorb more than 80% of the interior of harmful gases, Research conducted by Wolverton Environmental Services, Inc. and supported by the Plants for Clean Air Council in Mitchellville, Maryland, continues to expand on the research begun at NASA. Specifically, they are trying to understand how plants clean and revitalize the air and how to use this knowledge to improve indoor air quality.
I hope this is helpful.
13.5.09
Answer
Yes, a bromeliad that produces pups will begin to deteriorate and eventually die. Once the pups are a good size you can simply cut out the mother plant when it doesn't look very nice any more.
Most bromeliads produce pups only after flowering but as I've seen in my own collection, many also produce pups without having flowered.
Part of my bromeliad collection
Plants & Photo: Marina Welham
3.5.09
Roman B. - USA
Answer
Great photo. Thank you.
This is NOT an Orchid Cactus (Epiphyllum). It is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (earlier also called Selenicereus anthonyanus).
It is a cactus species native to southern Mexico. Common names are: Fish Bone Cactus, Rick Rack Cactus, Zig-zag cactus.
28.4.09
Coralie - USA
Hi there. I have found your web site by web surfing and would like to share a beautiful photo of one of my epis. I am certain that it is 'showboat'. This is the first time it has flowered for about 3 yrs and am looking forward to its next lot of flowers.
19.4.09
Answer
Thanks for the nice compliment.
The naming of a cultivar should conform to the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (the ICNCP, commonly known as the Cultivated Plant Code). http://www.ishs.org/sci/icracpco.htm
Information on legal restrictions is available in this PDF file on line: http://www.fao.org/Legal/Prs-OL/lpo31.pdf
14.4.09
Marina - Canada
Plant & Photo: Jerry Dowding, Canada
If anyone can help identify this Ferocactus, I would be extremely grateful.
Please reply to: amdigest@islandnet.com
8.4.09
Ed. Comment:
Marina:
This was his reply.
And this is what I suggested to him:
Anonymous - UK
Bob H. - USA
Epi Expert!
Can you help me identify this plant I picked out of someone's trash today? I suspect an epi, maybe an epi seance but I don't know for sure as I've not seen a flower.
The stems are old and quite woody and it's quite root bound. How would you recommend I procede? I NEVER toss a plant so that's not an option.
Thanks very much
Answer
I'm not an Epi Expert!! Just an experienced hobbyist. It is impossible to ID the plant without seeing the flower and even then, because there are so many hybrids, an ID would have to be just a guess. It is, however, an Epiphyllum (true species) or Epi hybrid. On the plus side, half the fun of growing it is the anticipation of what the flowers will look like!
The plant looks healthy enough. The woody stems don't look too bad. Probably the result of age. And they don't ruin the look of the plant so I wouldn't worry about them. If you think the plant would look better by removing a few of the stems, you can do that too.
Rootbound is good because these plants prefer to be rootbound but it might have been in the same soil for years so I would suggest you re-pot it into a fresh soil mix. I would slice off about 1/3 of the roots when you do this, loosen and shake off as much of the old soil as you can from the rest of the roots and pot into a fresh mix. Do not use a bigger pot.
If you slice off some roots, don't water the plant for a week or two to give the injured roots chance to heal.
For instructions on care please read my article here: http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
If you run into a specific problem, let me know and I'll try to help further.
Nice 'find', Bob.
1.4.09
Subject: Inherited epi - what does it need?
Angie - USA
I recently inherited this plant from my grandmother and I'm not sure
what it needs. It is in a plastic nursery pot inside the bucket and
the soil feels quite sandy. I have read over your site and it seems
that I need to trim out the dead stems, and repot in a smaller pot
with a different mixture. The plant has some mealy bugs and has never
bloomed to my knowledge, except for once many, many years ago. The
plant is very old and I would hate to do too much to it at once. The
leaves are a little withery as well. Could you advise me? I would
hate to lose it because of the sentiment attached.
Thank you for your time.
Answer
If this was my plant I'd do something drastic. I'd take cuttings and start new plants. Believe it or not if you do that you will probably get flowers next year. I planted cuttings of all my epis last year and every one has a flower bud on it right now. However, my plants get total light from morning to night in a bright greenhouse. This high light (no direct sun) is important for healthy plants that will flower and not produce more stems than leaves. Actually the leaves are more correctly called stems but I use leaves here to differentiate from the hard stems I see.
Looking at your photos I can't imagine how you could prune the plant and end up with a nice looking plant. There are just too many old 'stems' throughout.
A benefit to taking cuttings and starting anew is that you can get rid of the mealy bugs which, after all this time, are probably down in the roots too. You'd take the cuttings and wash them off well. You can either pot them individually and let them develop into mature plants or you can pot them three or four in a pot around the edge of the pot. A 4 in. pot for each cutting is big enough. A 5" pot for several would be adequate. Using fresh soil mix will mean you start out with clean soil and no bugs. Believe me it is less work to do that than try to eradicate a mealy bug problem which probably has been of long standing.
Withery leaves could be caused by insufficient watering .. or if enough watering the roots are not taking up the moisture which could be due to pests in the soil at the roots. Here again, taking cuttings will allow you to select the best leaves to root and toss out the rest (where they won't be able to contaminate any other plants or cuttings).
From what I see in your photos the plant needs more light. To have one side of the plant at the window and the other in the darker room .. creates a lack of light situation.
If you will read my article on Orchid Cacti it will tell you what soil you need, how to water, light requirements, fertilizer etc. If you follow those directions your plant (or cuttings) will flower next year.
So long as you have some healthy leaves on the plant and can take cuttings you will never lose the plant. If you let it go with the bugs and the withering .. you could lose it down the road.
Good luck.
30.3.09
Subject: Epis and sun/shade
Sheila - USA
I found your site researching light requirements. Everyone in my family has an epi-all cuttings from the "mother plant" and courtesy of my brother. I have always hung mine at the very edge of a covered patio, as soon as the last frost was over, in the sun. One year I lost half of my plant to a surprise early frost. This year they are hung way back next to the house, and already budding, much to my surprise, as they have more shade. I may leave them where they are and see how they do without direct sun. Thanks for all of the advice and beautiful photos. Please fee free to post my photos if you wish.
Answer
Thanks for the nice photos. In one of them I notice some of the leaves on your plant have turned quite yellow. This is one indication the plant does not enjoy full sun.
23.3.09
Subject: Support for Night Blooming Cereus
Linda M. - USA
In the past, I have moved my Night Blooming Cereus from outside under a live oak tree in summer to inside the dining room in the winter. We have now decided that it is so large that it must stay outside and, hopefully, we will be able to construct some sort of safe winter environment for it. We live in San Antonio, TX.
The problem is how to support it and protect it from summer winds and breezes in an as attractive manner as possible. It is clearly visible from both the patio and the dining room and quite a conversation piece. Do you have any pictures or suggestions for this construction? So far, all my ideas seem unsatisfactory for one reason or another. Thank you.
Answer
Yes it is Epiphylum oxypetalum.
Sorry to tell you but leaving it outdoors in winter is very risky unless it is in greenhouse where you can add heat if you have a run of cold weather. Epis are tropical plants which need warmth year round. The best minimum winter temperature would be around 50-55F. While the plant should never be allowed to totally dry out, if it is cold as well as wet this will invite rot to set in.
You may have to prune the plant back to reasonable size so you can bring it in for winter months. You would have enough nice cuttings to create a whole new plant. It's fun to have such a big plant but keep in mind if the plant puts all its strength into growing more and more new stems (leaves), it might not produce as many flowers.
Breezes won't harm the plant in warm weather but very windy areas should be avoided.
4.3.09
Subject: Cats!!
Gerie G. - USA
Several years ago I moved from Santa Barbara, Calif. (where I specialized in Epis. and "antique" roses & terriers -NO house plants) to Humboldt Co. in northern Calif. I am in an apartment, with good light (several hours of direct sun) in the winter & bright (no direct sunlight) in the summer. We are allowed cats-no dogs & except for three large containers, no gardening outside. So, I have my first cat. Until the Bengal arrived, I was beginning to enjoy the novelty of house plants! However, after consulting the "toxic-to-cats" list from Davis University, I had to give up 75% of them. There are several lists of "toxic to animals" available but nowhere are Epis listed. Do you or your "followers" have any info regarding this question? Also, am I in a state of delusion believing in the successful possibility of flowering Epis inside?
Also, I wish to say that after nearly 40 years of gardening & spending several thousand dollars (really!) on magazine subscriptions & garden/gardening books, I have never seen anything to match your website; so generous, so dense & complete!!! Bravo!
Namaste, Gerie G.
Answer
Epis themselves are not toxic to animals. However, any plant treated with an insecticide (including systemics) may be toxic to animals even if that plant is listed somewhere as being not toxic. The same applies to the soil in which plants are planted. A cat or bird or dog might become curious about the soil/grit, etc. and nose or paw around in it. If you can be sure your plant has not been pesticide treated .. then you have nothing to worry about. It's best to stay away from pesticides in any event because even if you spray the stems you could kill the plant.
You should be able to flower your plant in the house providing there is enough light because while epis don't like direct sun they need as much bright light as they can get. Epis can flower at different times of the year but most bloom in spring. Most hybrids bloom anywhere from about the end of February through April, May and June. A few hybrids bloom later than that as do the true Epiphyllum species. The lengthening days in spring encourage growth and flowering so don't close the blinds in the house until the daylight outside has gone and hopefully you are up in the morning early enough to open the blinds the moment daylight sets in. Or just leave the blind open at the window near where the plant is and let nature handle the rest.
If you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or it may suffer bud drop.
I look forward to a photo of your flowering plant!
As for your wonderful comments about our web site .. thank you for making my day. I'll try not to let my head swell up too much!!!
You will find more questions and answers on Epis (Orchid Cacti) in the article on the subject on this web site .. or you can ask me questions any time and I'll try to help.
You will have noticed the interesting salutation at the end of the last question and answer-"Namaste". The story behind it is even more interesting so I thought I'd share it with you. Wikipedia states:
Namasté, Namaskar or Namaskaram is a common spoken greeting or salutation in the Indian subcontinent. Taken literally, it means "I bow to you". The word is derived from Sanskrit (namas): to bow, obeisance, reverential salutation, and (te): "to you".[1] Namaskar is considered a slightly more formal version than namasté but both express deep respect. It is commonly used in India and Nepal by Hindus, Jains and Buddhists, and many continue to use this outside the Indian subcontinent.
When spoken to another person, it is commonly accompanied by a slight bow made with hands pressed together, palms touching and fingers pointed upwards, in front of the chest. The gesture can also be performed wordlessly and carry the same meaning.
In Indian and Nepali culture, the word is spoken at the beginning of written or verbal communication. However, upon departure the only the wordless hands-folded gesture is made.
In yoga, namasté is said to mean "The light in me honors the light in you," as spoken by both the yoga instructor and yoga students.
Subject: EPI advice please
Sonia C. - Canada
I have a beautiful epi plant that blooms with hundreds of flowers in
the spring. I just discovered mealy bugs which I used alcohol to get
rid of individually. Started reading your site and realized that the
spots must also be a problem. I've cut back the plant but there are
too many to just cut off. I realized that they can be picked off with
my naills but it's a bit daunting due to the size of the plant. I have
it in a east south and west facing loft window - there really isn't a
better spot due to the size. I water every ten days. It is very root
bound but just added a top layer of new soil. Do you have any thoughts
about what I may be dealing with. Thankyou so much for your time.
Answer
It looks to me like a scale problem. Try the alcohol and sponge method mentioned in the earlier question and my answer on scale.
For mealy bugs .. if they are mealy bugs .. you can also spray them with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water also as mentioned in my earlier answer on the same subject.
You seem to be doing everything right. We all face pest problems sooner or later. Maybe checking the plant more frequently would turn these up before they have a chance to spread.
Root bound is good. This plant prefers to be root bound.
16.2.09
Subject: Variegated Agave propagation
Jerry L. - USA
What do you know about propagating agaves or "Quadricolor" from leaf cuttings? Last summer when I wrote you asking about the correct name of "Quadricolor," I was in the process of repotting my two plants. I took off several older leaves and reset the plants. I propagated all the old leaves as leaf cuttings, and all died except one. And since then, it hasn't done anything except sit there. I haven't checked for roots.
Answer
According to all my information sources .. variegated agaves cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings. The plants will, however, produce variegated offsets.
If anyone knows of any information that would dispute this .. I'd love to hear from you. And what about agaves that are not variegated? Once again my references say they too cannot be propagated from cuttings yet I see on the internet some say they can be propagated in that way.
12.2.09
Subject: EPI advice please
Craig S. - USA
I finally got the courage to prune my epi as you suggested and now have a few more questions. I started by removing the
stems which I found what I believe is scale &the brownish bumps on the underside of the stems. Have I identified this correctly?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
Good idea to get rid of the stems with the scale as you were pruning.
Yes, it looks like scale to me.
What causes the scale..soil conditions, external environment, growing conditions, cold winter environment? I tried scraping the bump off with my finger nail on a removed stem and it looked like it would leave a bruise.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea. Different types of scale are attracted to different plants. It doesn't have anything to do with environment as far as I know. One possibility .. you might have brought them in on another plant? Removing scale always leaves a mark. You can use a soft sponge soaked in alcohol to rub them off which would cause less damage than your fingernail.
Your article says scale can be treated with insecticidal soap or sprayed with a water/isopropyl alcohol mixture.
You suggest a couple of tablespoons of isopropyl alcohol with water & 2 tablespoons mixed with how much water?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A regular spray bottle holds around 20 ounches (568 ml). You could fill this with water and add 2-4 tablespoons of alcohol. I'd start with 4 since you seem to have a bit of an infestation.
Do you spray the entire plant top and bottom surfaces with a fine spray or soaking spray until dripping?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A fine spray top and bottom of leaves is fine. I'd water a little into the soil as well.
Which method do you suggest I start with?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I'd try the alcohol/water treatment first. The insecticidal soap is more work since it has to be rinsed off after a couple of days. Sticky you know.
I also found a critter that was chewing holes in a few stems &..black bug (mealy bug?) in a web directly under a leaf he was working on.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea what this is cause I can't see it. Mealy bugs are white. This may be spider mite but usually you can't see those without a magnifying glass. They do, however, chew pieces out of plants.
My last question/concern&you can see from the pictures how much material I removed from the plant. I think that I removed most if not all of the scale, but I stopped pruning because of concern of shocking the plant. Did I prune too much? Would you still recommend further pruning to open up the plant more?
I hope that the next pictures I send you are of blooming.
Answer
It is not wise to prune more than 1/3 of the plant at a time to keep shock to a minimum. I think you pruned it enough for now.
10.2.09
Subject: Aeonium leaf drop
Ann L. - USA
I have a problem with my Aeonium plant. All the bottom leaves keep drying up and falling off. Makes a mess everywhere.
Answer
This leaf drop is natural. The dead leaves do make a bit of a mess but if your plant ever flowers, I think you will be glad to tolerate a little clean-up now and again. Try putting your plant, pot and all, into a container bigger than the pot and the dead leaves will fall into it and clean-up is then minimal. All you have to do is empty out the container occasionally.
3.2.09
Subject: The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson
Vickie H.. - USA
For serious cactus people, I noticed that Amazon has The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson (hard cover) at much lower prices than I've seen before. Shipping may be included. For pricing and details click here:
Amazon Books - UK
...................
Amazon Books - USA
30.1.09
Subject: Alluaudia ascendens - rooting cuttings
Vickie H.. - USA
I have owned (or rather, HAD) a beautiful specimen Alluaudia Adceudens for about five happy years. I bought it when it was a 6" baby (at a Strybing Arboretum plant sale), and grew to a glorious and robust 3'. I kept it outside in bright (not direct) sun all spring and summer. Summer temps would exceed 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit for weeks at a time, and my plant thrived. For winter, my practice was to bring it inside when night temperatures approached the low 50sF. I always kept it in my large and airy, fairly dim, but not very humid, bathroom over the winter.
I thought, this year I will be nicer to my friend, and put it in my warmer, sunnier front bedroom for the winter. As I was doing this, I noticed with alarm that the top half inch had shriveled. This observation assured me that I was making a good move by providing a more comfortable situation. I carefully pruned off the dead portion, noting that there was healthy green tissue below the cut. Alas! A few weeks later, the lower portion near, but not in, the soil seemed to be collapsing!
I fear that I have only one choice: try to salvage what appears to be a healthy mid-section. May I, with any hope, treat it as cacti with a similar symptoms? Meaning, treat the cut end with rooting hormone, expose to air for a few days, then attempt to root?
Any suggestions? Should I give up now, and purchase a new one to try to soothe my loss?
Thanks!
Answer
Yes you can treat it as a cutting as you describe and try to root it. It may take a while so be patient. On the other hand, since there is collapse top and near bottom of the main stem, it could be the middle portion has also been affected but just not to the point where you can see the damage. If that is so I'm afraid the plant may be a gonner.
It sounds to me like the plant has had too much moisture .. your bathroom is probably a lot more humid than you realize or there is more humidity than the plant enjoys having. Fairly dim light over winter may have added to the problem.
30.1.09
Subject: EPI leaf curl
Craig S. - USA
I am a novice at EPI s&&
Is there a reason that many of the leaves on my epi have a curl to them? The curl shown in the pictures developed while it was outside this summer
The attached pictures were taken yesterday 1/28/09 in the garage&..I live in Portland, Oregon
I have had the plant for 3 years&the first 2 years it was indoors 100% of the time. It seem to grow well but on the thin and spindly side. Last year I repotted to a larger pot with fresh soil and placed outside in June hanging under the eave, where it remained until early November.
At that time I moved it into the garage to avoid light frosts at night. The plant really took off with lots of new growth, much larger and thicker leaves and good bright color. I don t know if it was the repotting or being outside that made such a difference&probably both.
I fertilized with a 10-10-10 once a month while it was outside. I have only watered it lightly once a month since moving it into the garage.
It does not get below 40 degrees in the garage and it is getting about 10 hours of florescent light each day&..no windows in the garage.
The plant has not yet bloomed&.I am hoping it will this year since wintering in the cooler, darker environment.
The lighter yellow on the leaves is from the camera flash&.the leaves are a consistent green.
When should the buds start showing so that I can be watching for them? I have read that you should not move the plant once the plant starts setting buds?
What causes the main leaf to form many offset leaves? Is this good or bad for blooming? Should they be cut off and to what effect?
Any comments as to overall health of the plant and suggestions to help promote blooming?
I appreciate you time and efforts and am looking forward to your responses.
Thank you,
Answer
Craig
That's some gorgeous plant you have there.
With regard to the curling of the leaves .. ruling out that the white patches are a camera problem and not on the leaves themselves which might indicate powdery mildew .. or pests .. all I can think of is that the curling leaves, as you will notice, are all on the same side of the plant and all the curlers face the same direction. When it was outside under the eave did that side of the plant get less light than the other? Was it facing against the house while the opposite side faced away from the house where there was more light? They might have been changing shape in the process of reaching out for more light. That is a process called etiolation. The same thing can happen to a plant under fluorescent lights if all parts of the plant are not getting an equal amount of light or a sufficient amount of light.
You mention it now has a cooler, darker environment. Without seeing it and how much light it is actually receiving I can't say if lack of light is the problem. However, epis do need the brightest light possible year round.
It seems late to bring the plant indoors in November. If the temp outside is below 50F, preferably 55F or even 60F, since Epis are tropical plants, they do not take kindly to less than warm temperatures. I wager in the garage "at not below 40F" your epi is not a happy camper. Resulting troubles do not always show up immediately with succulents.
I can't tell you when your plant will bloom. Different epis bloom at different times but most bloom in spring.
All your questions about blooming, watering, fertilizing, pruning (and special soil requirements) are answered in my article on this web site Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
Your plant look happy and healthy but I think it is far too dense. I would do some judicial pruning to open it up some. You could remove those 'leaves' on 'leaves'. All I can think about those is that the plant has had too much nitrogen which is also why your plant has become so luscious and dense with all those overlapping 'leaves'. If it does flower there won't be enough space for them to develop.
Yes, once you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or buds may drop off.
Three important things about getting your plant to bloom (also in my article) is to provide several weeks of short days before spring begins. Do not over-pot the plant. It prefers to be pot bound. And provide a soil mix that has an acid reaction.
Do read my above mentioned article and if you have any other questions, let me know.
WOW....thanks for the quick response. I will go back and read your article on your website more thoroughly and check to see when and how to prune (thin).
The curl did develop last summer......one side was towards the house and I did not rotate the plant much....I will this year.
Thanks again for your advice.
30.1.09
Subject: Cold hardy cacti in planters
Jerry L. - USA
Please suggest a long-term potting mix suitable for cold-hardy cacti that are left outdoors all year in planters. Thank you.
Answer
I recommend this page on the Brooklyn Botanic Garden web site .. on growing cold hardy cacti including those in planters.
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/plants/handbooks/cacti/hardycacti.html
30.1.09
Subject: Is it a Hoya?
Tony M. - UK
I was given a small plant about 4 inches high about 35 - 40 years ago. I didn`t know then what it was but it grew and grew. Over the years my plant has had upwards of 75 - 100 blooms at a time which you can imagine look beautiful. I am sure it is indestructible as it weathers below zero temperatures in my conservatory in the winter to 120 degrees F or more in the summer months when the sun is on the glass I have hacked it with very sharp scissors, had it turn upside down when dropped on the floor and it has even suffered severe rain, wind and whatever the weather cares to throw at it when I put it outside during June to September. The only downside to this gorgeous plant is, I can`t put it in my house as the honey-type sap is so sticky, but this is my only complaint. I can`t remember how many cuttings I have taken from it, but I do know that the people I have given the cuttings to don`t have such a beautiful display as my plant. The only help I have received on how to look after it was from someone who knows little about it, but he did say water well in the winter and not so much in the summer. In other words water the other way round from how you would look after any other plant.
Answer
I would love to see a photo of your plant because I suspect it is not an orchid cactus but rather it may be a Hoya. The former does not drip sticky sap but hoyas do. I found that out the hard way. Many years ago my first Hoya was hung over a very expensive antique table. After a couple of weeks of drip, drip, drip, I no longer owned an expensive antique table. What a mess!
The conversation we were having here about when to water was mainly about plants that are spring and summer growing and which we have to keep in a cold location during winter months (cold greenhouse, cold garage, etc.). The same plants if grown in a warm house all through winter (some houses are kept very warm) should have a little water now and again because indoor heat can dry up the plant and the roots far worse than plants left dry in a cool environment.
Plants which normally grow in winter and rest in summer require a different watering schedule. If a plant grows in winter, it needs water and it needs some warmth during those months. Hoyas are not winter growers although they enjoy a little water in winter now and again providing some warmth can be provided. They grow and flower some time during the period spring through to fall. They tolerate a wide range of different temperatures from very cool to very hot. Orchid cacti would cook in your greenhouse at 120F.
In general hoyas prefer a minimum winter temperature of 45F but will tolerate cooler temps if kept dry. Too cold for too long and some leaf loss can occur.
Another reason I think you have a Hoya and not an orchid cactus is because orchid cactus do not like full sun. You say your plant does enjoy the sunshine.
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Hank C. - USA
I have been subscribing to that Digest for years. It has information you just won't find anywhere else, particularly on caudiciforms
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Jim J. - UK
I would like to subscribe to your Digest but I am only interested in caudiciforms.
Answer
There is information in every issue on caudiciforms but obviously the issues are not devoted solely to one type of plants. I guess it's a matter of you deciding if the low cost of a subscription ($15.00) is worth getting that information as well as the rest.
26.1.09
Subject: Winter watering
Jerry L. - USA
My garage is cold but doesn't freeze. I overwinter many plants in there. They, too, shrivel as mentioned by Arlene W. But I water my plants usually about twice during the winter. It may depend on where she is located, but some water may be beneficial to prevent too much desiccation. What do you think?
Answer
Jerry
This is a very tricky subject. Your point about preventing too much desiccation is well taken. And you are right that a lot depends on growing conditions of the plants in various locations. Since you are an experienced grower you know how to judge if you will give the plants a little water in winter but for the less experienced person I feel it is safer to advise them to just leave the plants dry until early spring. There is the risk of some desiccation (roots dying) but those roots will regenerate quickly in the next warm growing season. It is comforting to know that while the plants are shrivelling they are not growing but are having a rest. Many believe that rest is important to encourage flowering the following growing season.
I have never over-wintered cacti in a garage but I would think the light there for several months would be way less than the plants would normally need and I'd guess the soil would take some time to dry out so I'd be afraid to water them at all. That is not to say you are wrong to water yours. The fact that you do so successfully is what makes the whole subject so interesting.
You are correct...maybe much of it is experience. However, I do use shop lights in the garage, on timers, for at least some light. They are under definitive short days; 10 hours light. And, you are also correct in that they don't dry out fast, which is why only one or two waterings during the winter is sufficient. And they are not thorough waterings at that, just enough to provide some water. At watering time, for example, the water given to them runs right through the mix. But enough of it stays in the mix, coupled with the coolness, that it clings to the mix particles, raises humidity, roots "take it up," and etc. But they do very well in these conditions: cool, dry, not enough light to encourage growth, long enough periods of darkness to not encourage growth, etc.
As I'm writing this, and not putting that much thought into it, I can't think of anywhere, at least in the continental USA, that has such totally dry winters/dormant seasons without any water at all. Plus, to add to the tricky-ness of this subject, oftentimes during the growing season (e.g.. summer) the plants are under more water deficit stress than the dormant season.
Our native Opuntia (here in the Kansas City area), such as the ones on my 20 acre property about one hour south of where I live, do just fine with our environmental conditions. And they don't actually grow in dry conditions or locations. Some of the best clumps are in the wetter areas! Same with OUR NATIVE Yucca species. On a side note, don't believe it when people or catalogs say that Yucca is deer resistant, those deer love Yucca! Especially the flower stalks! Yummy to them, must taste like large Asparagus!
Ahh, the bigger picture is so blurry. And I agree that it may be better for many people to give them a more cut-and-dry answer. I, too, do that for people who ask questions.
Yes, a tricky subject indeed! :)
25.1.09
Subject: Shrivelling opuntias
Arlene W. - USA
You told me not to water my opuntias if I keep them in a cold greenhouse (around 40F). I followed your instructions but now the plants are shrivelling. What should I do?
Answer
That's okay. Opuntias tend to shrink and shrivel when very cold .. which means they are reducing their water content.This helps protect them from freezing. In another few weeks when the temperature warms up you can start watering them again and watch them plump up nicely.
24.1.09
Subject: Aloe ramosissima
Mick S. - USA
Question for you. I have several Aloe ramosissimas that I am training in bonsai pots--very nice plants. It took a while to figure out how to grow them--I killed a number before I figured that out. I bought them from Gene at Plants for the Southwest in Tucson--nice plants.
At any rate, I'm wondering if you have any experience air layering them. I have found them very difficult to strike as cuttings, w/ a 100% rot rate. Gene confirms this. I thought that trying to air layer them rather than kill another attempting a cutting might work. Any help in this regard?
Answer
I've never tried air layering aloes and have not heard of anyone who does this. I suppose you could try but if not done just right you stand to lose the entire plant. It is also a very slow process.
This species is highly susceptible to rot (which you found out) .. so rooting cuttings could well be a problem. You could try the 'over the water' method where water doesn't touch the cuttings at all. Good results have been had with this procedure.
Fill a small jar about half full of water. Poke a hole in the lid (big enough to allow a cutting to go through) and insert a cutting (dry it first) far enough in that it does not actually touch the water. Try just one cutting and see how it works.
Failing that all I can suggest is to plant your cuttings after thoroughly dry. Do not water. Instead put a "little" water in the pot saucer. That will get wicked up in the soil but not so high as to touch the cutting. It is moisture too near the cuttings that seems to encourage rot.
24.1.09
Subject: Planting Orchid Cactus cuttings
Sheila L. - USA
I just received 2 clipping of "Master of Mars" orchid cactus. Which end should I put in the soil- the narrow or wider one- or does it matter?
Do the cuttings in these photos look like they are ready to be planted or should I still wait as they need to dry more?
Answer
30.12.08
The cuttings might root if you plant them upside down but it is far preferable to plant the right end in the soil so that the plant can assume it's normal growth form.
I've marked the cuttings (with an X) for you to show which ends to plant. The missing photo was not clear enough for me to see which end was which. I'm sure from the ones I have marked you will know what to do.
The very narrow ends seem ready to plant but I can't see from the photos if the wider cuts are dry enough. To be on the safe side I'd wait a few days before planting those.
When the end to be planted is really really small, it is often better to slice a piece off to make that end wider to accommodate more roots to better support the plant as it grows. And of course let the cut callous over before planting. If cuts are not dry enough and water can get in .. rot will follow.
Subject: Pups and plants
Louise M. - Australia
I have the most wonderful Epiphyllum growing inside in a very light
area at The Gold Coast in Queensland Australia grown from a cutting
given to me by my cousin.
Recently I acquired a gorgeous puppy who unfortunately adores it too.
My question here is can the leaves be poisonous? I do my best to curb
the pup's enthusiasm but some leaves still get partly eaten.
Interesting also is that I brought the cutting from Melbourne which
meant it travelled in my suitcase for approx. 7 hours in all, and
although looking very worse for wear for maybe a month, took off and
never looked back. Even the puppy bites dont seem to be affecting it
adversely.
Look forward to you response. Best regards
Answer
Congratulations on your Christmas puppy. As far as I know the stems (leaves) of Epiphyllum are not poisonous to animals.
I personally prefer to keep my pets away from all my plants just to be on the safe side. We don't always know if somebody has treated their plants with pesticides (systemics in particular) which means the stems/leaves and even cuttings could carry some trace or more of these.
Your plant will surely look and do better without being constantly nibbled. Chomping leaves is the same as cutting off leaves and this will stress the plant which in turn might refuse to flower when the time comes. In the meantime puppy might be telling you it loves greens and would appreciate a green veggie in his/her diet.
Happy New Year.
27.12.08
Subject: Potting Question
Paul G.
You have a very informative web site - thanks for making it available!
I received two Orchid Cacti (which now I know are epi's) that were
potted with a schefflera. I repotted, and to be safe, just took all
three together since I had not identified the epi's yet.
While the light requirements of each seem compatible, my hunch is
that the epi's would ideally require different soil and watering -
but is this worth the disruption? Thanks
Answer
My pleasure. Glad to hear you find our web site useful.
No. 1 worry I have about growing Orchid Cacti with a Schefflera is because the Schefflera is prone to spider mite. I would keep that one a distance from any other plants.
No. 2 worry would be that as they grow they will mix together rather than develop their own form. Both can become fairly large in time.
No. 3. Light requirements are about the same but soil is not. Orchid Cacti need a more acid soil mix than does Schefflera.
No. 4. Orchid cacti like to be pot bound. Schefflera does not although some would argue that point since it is sometimes grown as bonsai in which case plant and roots are often pruned.
Given the above, I would say it is well worth it to separate the plants. I would even separate the epis because they look so much better when bigger when grown in their own pots. You don't want multiple stems overlapping each other which would cut out a fair amount of light.
Happy Holidays.
21.12.08
Subject: A very special story of friendship and sharing
Ruth Ann W.- USA
I received an Epi hybrid several years ago when my boss and I were moving away. The Epi came to reside at my store and every May it would bless me with beautiful flowers. I loved showing off my plant to my customers and those that were interested I would give them a cutting. I did not know the name of the plant until recently when I discovered a picture of a plant that looked a lot like mine. It referred to it as an orchid cactus. So I went on the Internet to see what I could find about Orchid Cactus. That is when I found your wonderful informative website
.On May 4, 2007 an EF5 tornado stuck Greensburg, KS and destroyed our Bulk Food Store. I rummaged around in the debris looking for anything salvageable, hoping I might find something. I did not find any sign of my Epi.
In August, Jan came to see me bringing me a surprise. I had given her a cutting and now she was bringing me my plant back. Then in Oct. Carolyn called to say she had left a plant for me to pick up, another Epi for me. I am really looking forward to seeing the Epis in bloom; hope I won't be disappointed. I will send you a picture. I never dreamed giving away cuttings would give me back my special plant.
21.12.08
Subject: Is the On Line Digest technical?
Gillian W. - USA
I was thinking to join your Digest but want to know how technical it is. I've tried others and they were way too difficult for me to understand. I worry about ever figuring out plant names.
Answer
Our Digest is both for and by amateur hobbyists. It is not the same as highly technical publications which have an important place in our hobby too. We do use botanical plant names but in most cases when you see the plant name you see a photograph of the plant too. I know beginners find the names difficult but think of it like this. Most of us are familiar with not so easy names like Rhododendron and Hibiscus because we see or hear about them fairly frequently. The same applies to the names of succulents. The more you see them the more easily familiar they become.
Articles, photos and other information in our Digest are provided by very friendly amateur hobbyists all over the world. The whole purpose of our publication is to share information and photos with each other which makes our publication really unique.
If I can help further let me know.
20.11.08
Subject: Christmas Cactus flowering
Nancy B.
I have a Christmas cactus/Thanksgiving cactus - whatever that is about 5
years old and it does not bloom.
It is by a window but does not get drect sun. What should I do to make
it bloom or does it need a companion?
Any help appreciated
Answer
It is important that the plant have several weeks of short days to encourage it to bloom. That means total darkness - not interrupted by lights in the house. The easiest thing to do is to throw something over it like a plastic garbage bag when it starts getting dark outside late afternoon. Take the cover off in the morning when it is getting light again outside. Keep doing that every day until you see buds form. When buds form don't move the plant around because that could encourage bud drop.
It must also have very bright light during daylight hours. Too much shade can also deter flowering.
Good luck. Send me a picture when it is in full bloom!
17.11.08
Subject: Sedum ID needed
P.J. - USA
I really enjoyed visiting your Succulent webpage, and I am hoping you can
help me identify a Succulent plant that was in my family for over 40 years,
but unfortunately was eaten up by hungry rodents last year when it was
housed inside during a particularly bad winter.
I am enclosing it's pictures. The plant was
purchased in San Antonio, TX over 40 years ago, and sadly the last surviving
plant was eaten by rodents last year, so I am hoping someone can identify it
so I may look for it online and purchase another one, as I had a great emotional
attachment to this plant as it was my deceased mothers favorite. I have never seen
another one in any store or online, and I have been looking everywhere. It
also put out tiny white star shaped flowers every year.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Answer
This is a Sedum - possibly Sedum album micranthum 'Chloroticum'. Sedums are difficult to identify. There are many man made cultivars.
This is a reliable web site source for sedums where you will find either this plant or something very much like it.
http://www.squawmountaingardens.com/product.cfm?startrow=41&CID=1
Note: Ray Stephenson, author of Sedum: Cultivated Stonecrops, thinks the plant is the Mexican Sedum diffusum.
16.11.08
Subject: Dark tarp not a good idea for epis
Mary - USA
Hi I have many question concerning my eppies, but first I need to know how the affects are of keeping my eppies in a greenhouse year round as I have no trees in my yard to keep them and I have over 100 in my collection. I have a dark tarp over just the top of my greenhouse but much filtered light gets in through the sides of it. I only have 3-4 large plants and the rest are still rather young plants, but non have bloomed yet other than my night blooming cactus which produced one flower and another on the way. Is keeping my plants in this greenhouse year round having a bad affect on my plants? I do have a fan to allow for much air circulation but Im afraid the tarp may be too much darkness for them, I'm just not sure. I'm hoping for blooms this spring from my few larger plants but I just don't know if it will happen for me. Any idea?
Answer
A dark tarp will cut out too much light. Epis do not like full sun but they still need very bright light to grow well and encourage blooming.
If you could find 50/50 shade cloth for the roof of your greenhouse it would be much better than a dark tarp. As long as you have good air circulation there is no problem keeping the plants in the greenhouse year round
2.11.08
Subject: Sedum morganianum - Burro's Tail
Colin B. - Australia
I am rather pleased with this photo of what I believe to be Sedum morganianum, 'Burro's tail' . He's happy in a basket in full sun here in sub-tropical Queensland Australia. He also seems to propagate very easily from dropped segments, just shoved into a loose potting mix. Takes a few months but then kicks on nicely.
Answer
Yes, Colin, it is Sedum morganianum. It is difficult to repot this plant. Segments fall off too easily. To control that happening let the plant totally dry out and leave it like that for a couple of days.
Thanks for sharing a great photo.
1.11.08
Subject: Agave attenuata
Min M.
Hello from Melbourne.I have 3 large and 1 very large Agave Attenuata all planted in pots and growing beautifully,however as the pots are under the eaves of the house all the plants have of course grown toward the sun.The stems are between 60cm to 70cm but are bending toward the sun and with the weight of the plant head the plants are not looking as stunning as they once did.Can I cut the stems off and re-plant?? If that is possible can you re-plant the left over root base?? Cheers.
Answer
The reason why your plants appear to be growing toward the sun may not be the sun. This Agave is known for having a stem that bends over as the plant matures. It is sometimes called the Swan Neck Agave. In some cases the rosette is just about lying on the ground. You can cut the stems off, make sure the cut is thoroughly dry before planting again. The problem is you will be in for the same problem all over again as the plants mature.
You could also keep the root base and hope more shoots will grow from it.
27.10.08
Subject: Epiphyllum german empress
Jenie.. - Australia
Thank you again for your assistance in the identification and suggested treatment for my German Empress.
She still looks a little straggly and not quite her beautiful self but the good news is that she is sending up fresh clean shoots and so when she finishes flowering, I will be able to start a new basket from the cuttings.
Your help was very much appreciated
22.10.08
Subject: Winter growers
Joan W. - USA
Can you tell me which plants grow in winter?
Answer
I can give you a list of ones I know grow in winter but there may be others.
From: The Amateurs' Digest Vol. 17 Issue 3 November 2005, Supplement Section.
Adromischus, Aeonium, Aichryson, Aloe, Anacampseros, Astroloba, Avonia, Bowiea, Bulbine, Ceraria, Conophytum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Dactylopsis, Dioscorea, Dudleya, Fouquieria, Gasteria, Gibbaeum, Graptopetalum, Graptoveria, Greenovia, Haemanthus, Haworthia, Kalanchoe, Monanthes, Neohenricia, Othonna, Pachycormus, Pachyphytum, Pachyveria, Pelargonium, Peperomia, Pilea, Portulacaria, Sansevieria, Sarcocaulon, Sedeveria, Sedum, Senecio, Sphalmanthus (Phyllobolus), Stomatium, Talinum, Tylecodon.
Please note:
It is not uncommon for a plant to change its growing habit and revert from being a winter grower to a summer grower and vice-versa.
Winters growers have a dormant period in summer's warmest months. Perhaps calling them winter growers is a bit of a push because they actually grow during autumn and spring. In real winter months when days are shortest they produce minimal growth.
13.10.08
Subject: San Pedro with black spots
Mauricio S. - USA
I just picked some clippings of san pedro cactus. I planted them and
now the clippings are full of pimple like back spots. Please help I
do not want my plants to die.
Answer
When you take cuttings you must let the cuttings dry until the open wound is calloused over so moisture can't get in to where the open wound is. You can't take cuttings and plant them immediately - otherwise the cuttings will rot .. and I think the black spots are a sign of that starting.
11.10.08
Subject: Uncarina peltata (Madagascar)
Jerry L. - USA
What is the trick to bringing into flower Uncarina peltata?
Answer
I know of no trick that will make the plant bloom. When it is mature enough to flower it will, providing it has the right growing conditions. Is it getting enough light? Are you feeding it? Is the soil adequate, etc.
I asked Jerry about his growing conditions for the plant.
1. How big is the plant you have?
About 3.5' tall, single stem, base is about 3" thick, with nice slightly peeling bark.
2. What soil mix is it in?
My "special" mix! Really a generic, well draining mix.
3. What fertilizer do you use and how often?
This year, I have fertilized only twice (usually six to eight times per growing season...way too much rain this year on a regular basis to warrant additional irrigation at fertilization time). I use a program similar to institutions, where I fertilize with a stronger dose at a more infrequent time frame, usually about every two weeks during a normal growing season.
4. How much light/sun does it get?
Full sun from 11 am to sunset. Hot, painted deck; wilts during the day due to the heat. Indoors in the winter. But the plant is beautiful. Maybe just not mature enough.
Out of all of your answers, Jerry, something stands out to me. The plant wilts during the day due to the heat from a painted deck.
Every time this happens the plant is stressed out. This might well be the reason why the plant doesn't flower. If it is using all its resources to handle the stress .. which apparently it does .. there's little if any energy left to deal with flowering.
I would be inclined to move it where wilting can be avoided but where the plant will still have the same amount of light.
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Terry
Hi! LOVE your website. So helpful in answering numerous questions. The elderly woman that gave me a green stick with no leaves two years ago, told me to cut off branches without leaves to initiate blooming which would happen when the plant has 12+ leaves. I forgot about her suggestion until this past spring, and my two plants (from the original stick) had several leafless branches. I cut them off, and this week have enjoyed five beautiful blossoms between the two plants which have 12 & 15 leaves.
Two questions: 1. I read that I shouldn't fertilize during the winter months, but I'm wondering about fertilizing to help the plant recoup after so many blooms on two young plants?
2. Should I let the finished blooms just dangle from the leaves or cut them off? Will they just dry up and fall off? After reading your website, I don't think mine will develop fruit as they are indoor plants in a northern climate.
Thanks you so much.
Answer
I've never heard of making this plant flower using that procedure. Any cuttings of the plant should root and eventually produce blooms.
There is no rule about feeding the plant after flowering but keep in mind once flowering is over, the plant wants to rest. Feeding is to encourage growth and flowering. The feeding should preferably be done in the weeks before it is expected to bloom.
Leave the flowers until they are really well dried out and they will come off with a slight tug. Or they will eventually fall off. Your choice.
Fruit will not develop without pollination.
14.9.08
Subject: Over wintering plants and Pereskia aculeata godseffiana
Maureen K. - USA
I am getting ready to bring my cactus and succulents in for the winter. Can you give me an idea of which I can leave in a cool room with little to now water and those that need to be in a warmer room, I guess they're called winter growing succulents? I know it's impossible to list them all but I appreciate any help you can give.
The attached picture has nothing to do with my question but I like it a lot. It does well both in and outdoors.
I just subscribed to your on line Digest and am wondering how long it takes to receive my code. I love your digest!
Answer
It is almost impossible to answer your question without knowing something about the plants you grow. Most desert cacti will do well at 45F minimum with little or no water through winter months. The "other" succulents, however, are another story. Some will be okay in a cool room and others will not. Could you send me a photo of your collection and maybe I can tell you more?
Yes, there are some plants which grow during winter and they need warmth at that time as well as watering and feeding. Not all plants that need warmth in winter, however, are winter growers.
I'm very pleased to hear you enjoy our Digest (print version). Your code will be sent to you shortly so you can access the new version on line September issue from our web site. I hope you enjoy that too.
Let me know if I can help further.
PS Your Pereskia needs a minimum of 50F through winter months. Less water than in spring and summer but don't let it totally dry out.
Please note: The ID I gave of Pereskia aculeata godseffiana .. may in fact have changed at some point. It is believed the name may now be Pereskia aculeata var. rubescens. I have, however, no way of verifying that. (Marina).
13.9.08
Subject: Slow Release Fertilizers
Gordon P. - USA
What do you think of slow release fertilizers?
Answer
They are quite popular and convenient to use. However, because they release their nutrients a little at a time each time a plant is watered, how often you have to water a plant determines how often the plant is being fed. For most cacti and succulents I personally feel it is wiser to use a liquid fertilizer which I can control and water down to the strength that suits the needs of whatever particular plant I'm feeding. Cacti and succulents do not take kindly to being over fed.
11.9.08
Subject: Rooting Agave attenuata
Chris W. - Australia
Hi, I have been given three very large plants that to the best of my knowledge (from researching the internet) I believe are Agave attenuata. The plant tops are at least 60cm wide and have been cut off at their stem (approx 6inch/150cm left.) I would like to repot these if possible to make features of them as they look magnificent. What if any special precuations should I take to ensure they survive. They will live out the front of my house and will recieve full sun almost all day. Thanks in advance Chris White
P.s Where i live in Queensland can get very hot in summer, temps can sometimes reach 40 degrees celsius. Will they withstand all day powerful sun/heat like this?
Answer
Congratulations. Not one but three prizes. Lucky you!
You should have no trouble rooting the plants. One of our members not long ago rooted the same Agave of fair size with great success. Actually they rooted so quickly I was quite amazed.
Make sure the cut ends of the stems are thoroughly dry and healed over before you plant them. If any water/moisture gets into those cut ends there is a risk of rot. If not sure leave them out in the air drying for a couple of weeks before you plant them.
Just insert the stems in well draining soil. Prop the plant up straight if necessary. You could lightly moisten the soil before you put the stems in but I would not thoroughly water the plants for at least a couple of weeks or even a month. After that water once a month or so until they are well rooted in the ground after which nature will take care of them except for an occasional watering.
I hope they have been in full sun before because if not and you suddenly put them in direct sunshine they could burn as a result. If they have been in a shady place until now you'd have to gradually move them to brighter and brighter light over a period of several weeks so they get used to the sun gradually. In that case you could prepare pots of well draining soil and sink the stems in those so you can move them .. until ready to go into the ground.
I don't see any reason why you could not grow them in hot sun .. providing they have been accustomed to or acclimatized to that much sun, are well ventilated and not crowded together with each other or other plants. I have known people who have grown them in full hot sun and also in semi (but not total) shade. They seem to do well in both situations. This Agave is from Mexico (Hidalgo).
Good luck. Send me a photo one day when they are all established.
6.9.08
Subject: Fungus Gnats
John C. - USA
Any idea what these damn little bugs are jumping around the soil in my pots?
Answer
Probably fungus gnats. They are attracted to moist, peaty soil. Unfortunately we sometimes have to have peat in our soil for acid loving plants. And sometimes store bought soil mixes include peat as well.
Let the soil totally dry out for a few days. The gnats won't stay around dry soil.
As an added precaution, when you next water the soil, mix in with the water a touch of dishwashing liquid detergent.
4.9.08
Subject: Watering
Donny R. - USA
I read so often for succulents you should keep the soil moist not wet. I can't figure out what the difference is. Isn't wet - wet?
Answer
When you thoroughly water a plant, if the soil is well draining enough for succulents, the excess water quickly runs through and out the pot and the soil is left moist throughout and able to dry out faster than soil that is not draining well which will stay sopping wet for long periods.
For a comparison, if you soak a sponge in water the sponge is 'wet'. If you wring the excess water out of it, it is then 'moist'. Hope this helps.
12.8.08
Subject: Epiphyllum type
Bob N.
I have read with extreme interest your article on epiphyllum's. I inherited a large plant with a villa (in Spain), that I bought about 6 years ago. I have successfully taken many cuttings from this plant over the years, but was under the impression that it was a cactus orchid. Can you tell me please which epiphyllum it is. Photo of original plant attached plus a close up of bloom on a cutting taken
Answer
People do call epiphyllums 'Orchid Cactus'. It is better known by that name than any other.
I believe your plant is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. An impressive specimen to be sure.
12.8.08
Subject: Mushy cactus
Jerry B. - USA
i noticed today that my catus are all doing great
except one i have one with a huge red flower on it the
bottom part turned yellow, i think i overwatered it ,
what do i do now it is mushy too . can i cut the
flower off and plant in in soil or what
Answer
I'm sorry but there is nothing you can do with the flower. If the plant itself is mushy it is probably too late to save it.
If you can cut the mushy part off until you come to firm flesh and no mush .. keep the plant in a bright, warm place until the cut callouses over .. then sit it on a pot of soil and hope new roots form.
9.8.08
Subject: Can I still ask questions?
Jeffrey W - USA
Do I have to subscribe to your on line publication to have my questions answered?
Answer
No. You do not have to subscribe to ask for information. Swap ads for hobbyists are still free too.
Those who subscribe to our on line Digest, however, will have a lot more information and many more photos than I can provide on this free portion of our web site.
I will continue to post questions and answers .. but not all will be posted if they are questions already asked and answered.
9.8.08
Subject: Orchid cactus
Margaret - USA
Where can I buy cuttings in the NYC area. My Mother always had huge plants. They were often in bloom. Thanks
Answer
Unfortunately I don't keep a list of plants available from various dealers .. one problem is that inventory changes from day to day so such a list would be out of date shortly after I compiled it.
Perhaps someone reading this can help? Failing that you might try a free ad here on our web site asking if anyone has cuttings to sell or if they know where you can obtain some.
If anyone can help please contact me at amdigest@islandnet.com and I'll pass on the information to
5.7.08
Subject: Pesticides
Jan H.- USA
Somebody told me I should not use the same pesticide twice. Is that true?
Answer
Pests eventually become immune to a pesticide that is used over and over and over again. To avoid this you should use three chemically different insecticides in rotation on your plants. Notice I said 'chemically different' - not just different brand name products. Similar items are often made by different companies with different brand names.
We need to protect what are left of our precious vanishing bees (and our own health) so try to avoid pesticides if you can.
2.7.08
Subject: Propagating Didierea
Art W. - UK
Can you tell me how to propagate Didierea?
Answer
Didiereas can be propagated from seed .. but as with pachypodioums and adeniums the seed must be fairly fresh as they lose their viability fairly quickly.
You can sometimes propagate from cuttings (such as D. trollii) and you can also graft tubercle cuttings on to well rooted cuttings of Alluaudia procera.
2.7.08
Subject: Epiphyllum german empress
Jenie.. - Australia
I found your address on the internet and would very appreciate it if you could please have a look at my German Empress and possibly advise me of a cure.
This is my German Empress approx 3 years old - she usually hangs in the trees.
When she comes to bloom I bring her to the house and admire her blooms.
It is currently winter here and she is not in bloom.
Living in the shelter of the trees the plant does not get frequent inspection. Some of the foliage has turned all spotty and red tinged at the leaf outline - does not look like rust - looks more like bites??? Could scale in the past cause damage like that?? The damage is only on the upper surface underneath the leaves look intact.
Thanking you , Jenie
Answer
What a beautiful plant you have.
Epis are susceptible to fungal leaf spot especially during the winter months under excessive humidity and cool conditions.
The spots look like a fungus to me. I don't believe this is scale damage.
Dust the plant with a fungicide or if not too many stems are affected, just remove them. I would also find another location for the plant. While it gives a nice show to have the plants hanging from a tree, it is safer to keep the epis away from trees where any number of "tree problems" can translate to the plants not the least of which is fungus and even bugs.
The turning purple stem edges are all part of the same problem.
Thank you for sharing a wonderful photo.
21.6.08
Subject: Sansevieria ID
Mark M. - USA
I hope the photos are not too big for your server. I have what I think is an easy question. I am a Landscape Architect in Miami, Florida and I specify many varieties of Sansevieria. I do not see this variety on your web page. Do you know the correct botanical name? It will grow to 4ft.
Answer
I believe this is Sansevieria guineensis, 'White Striped Giant'
This rare variety is the largest and one of the most impressive of the S. guineensis varieties. It is very vigorous and easy to grow but as with all guineensis varieties, should be kept warm and dry in winter. Sansevieria guineensis is also known as S. metallica and S. hyacinthoides. Sansevieria specialists consider the name S. guineensis to be invalid, but it is familiar in the nursery trade. The exact origin of this species is not known .. as far as I know.
9.6.08
Subject: Epiphyllum bud drop
Do you happen to have any thoughts as to why an apparently vigorous epi, should suddenly have almost all its large
remaining buds stop developing, sag, droop, lose colour and fail to open? I'm sure it's not too wet or too dry. Two handsome flowers have opened and eventually faded. Does the plant perhaps feel that suffices, that no further exertion is required? I've had epis with up to a dozen successful flowers, sometimes over a span of more than three weeks.
Answer
Anonymous -UK
Epi flower buds react to sudden changes in temperature or moving the plant to a new location. Is it possible either one is likely?
Alas, either or both might be possible. I moved the plant to take its picture and I think it might also have been slightly cooled.
Bother. I didn't think of that. I've known for a long time that schlumbergeras hate being moved once buds have formed. I didn't realize that might also apply to epis. In fact it clearly doesn't always because I've been pretty casual about moving epis in bud. I'd better be
more careful.
Answer
It may be when you were lucky the buds were not as far along as they were on the plant in question.
8.6.08
Subject: Orchid cactus
Sherry - USA
What a great site you have! thanks so much for all of that info. I bought a pink orchid cactus last year in full bloom. I had never seen the plant before and I loved it. After the blooms finally dropped the plant continued to grow well. I still have it in the pot from the greenhouse, it gets watered once a week (soaked and drained) and hangs in a window in my northeastern home where it gets (I think) filtered light. It's in a big bay window suspended and the lower half of the window gets full light but the top is more shaded. From spring to late fall the windows there are opened as much as possible so I think it's getting a good amount of fresh air as well. The plant part seems to be doing fabulously but it didn't bloom this year. I took some photos to show you to see if you could see anything that looks bad. I am assuming that the soil mix the greenhouse gave it was good since it was in full bloom when I got it. Again, haven't changed a thing. Thanks so much for any advice or help you can give. Hope the pics aren't too much, shrank them as much as I could.
Answer
The plant looks very healthy. I would also assume the soil mix is right if the plant came from a greenhouse and was in full bloom.
The entire plant needs very bright light but not direct sun. Only you can tell how much light it's getting. Light should be even all around the plant.
Watering should be done when the plant needs it - not on a regular schedule. When the soil has almost but not totally dried out that is the time it should be thoroughly watered.
Epis need a period of several weeks before blooming (usually late winter), when they should only have the same amount of light as light appears outside .. these short days trigger flowering in spring for spring blooming species. This poses a problem for plants indoors which receive light from artificial lights in the house. You have to cover the plant at dusk and remove the cover next morning to give the short day effect.
Pics are great. Thanks for sharing.
8.6.08
Subject: Epis
Colleen - USA
Thank you so much for your informative website! I love my Cereus and I am a little concerned with its slowly dying leaves. The leaves have been gradually turning over the last few months. I recently repotted it as I thought the pot may be too small, and the roots were quite root bound which I heard was good. There were no signs of fungus or mold. Am i simply over or under watering it? I kept it inside next to a west facing window, which didnt get much light, through the fall and winter and recently put it outside on the porch where it seemed to get worse.
Could you please give me some advice? Thank You so much,
Answer
Sorry to say your plant is in deep trouble. If it were my plant I would remove the healthier looking leaves at the top and root them to start new plants.
Your epi looks like it has not had enough light for a long time. To suddenly put it outside on the porch just added to the problem. Never move a sick plant suddenly to a new location. Is there sun on the porch? This would only burn the leaves making them worse.
Epis do not grow tall and stringy like that. This is the first sign that growing conditions are not right. Lack of light weakens the plant and brings on other problems over time such as the one you are having with the leaves.
Once you start new plants, if you follow my instructions for growing conditions (in the article on this web site) you will have much more success in future.
5.6.08
Subject: Epis
Melissa D.. - USA
I'm fairly new to growing Epis. I have two that are a few years old and have bloomed, and also some younger plants & recently rooted cuttings. I'm not an avid gardener/grower and tend toward plants/flowers that require little care. I live in Texas, and the Epies seem to endure the heat pretty well. I'd love it if you could look at the attached pics and help me determine if a couple of things I'm seeing on my Epies are "normal", or if they're serious problems.
The first plant is a 1 yr old Epi that I recently noticed black spots on (I'm hoping it's not black spot fungus). This plant was repotted about 2-3 weeks ago. Before repotting, this plant was on a plant stand on my covered patio & it is now in a hanging basket. I use Schultz Cactus potting mix with some Perlite mixed in. I cannot tell from the Shultz bag whether or not it is sterlized.
Answer
Next time you send photos please reduce the size. They should be around 65K each - yours were 4000K. I could walk to Paris and back in the time it takes me to download the big ones.
Did you read my Epi article on this site? A general cactus potting mix is NOT suitable for Epis. It is too lean and it does not have an acid reaction which these plants need.
The article says:
A basic mix might be:
* 50% sterilized houseplant potting soil low in peat. If it is high in peat depending on how peaty the soil is you may not need to add more organic matter. By low in peat I mean not the bagged potting soil that is 90% peat with very little soil.
* 30% organic matter (leafmold, compost, peat)
* 20% Coarse sand or grit or horticultural perlite to encourage drainage. I personally won't use perlite because eventually it washes up to the top of the soil. I use No. 2 chicken grit.
* A big helping of common sense**
* A little bonemeal is optional.
** The amount of coarse sand, grit or perlite may need to be adjusted up or down as soils vary from different suppliers and may be lighter or heavier from one source than it is from another. Just keep in mind epis prefer a rather loose soil mix. A loose mix helps avoid root breakage when re-potting.
The black spots worry me. They are really black and sunken into the stem. It's impossible to say what caused them. If this were my plant I'd cut off the affected leaf or leaves close to the stem and destroy them. Most of the plant doesn't seem to be affected at the moment. Hopefully it hasn't had time to spread.
The corking doesn't look very nice but it is nothing to worry about. Lots of plants cork over with age or because of growing conditions. It is the plant's way of protecting itself .. maybe even from a shot of unwanted sunshine. Speaking of which your plant hanging up under the porch seems to be getting some direct sun on some leaves but on the top the leaves are in the dark just under a very dark roof. At least that's what it looks like in the picture. I would lower the plant so it is all in brighter light and move it back into the porch so the sun can't hit it.
31.5.08
Subject: Agave pups
Anonymous:
Anonymous:
I just bought an Agave in a 6" pot. I want to put it in a bigger pot. It has two small pups. Any advice about how to remove the pups?
Answer
Best advice is to leave the pups alone until they are at least 1/3 the size of the mother because if too small they just break off and don't root. If you leave them a while they will produce roots of their own and then when you gently tug them away from the mother they will survive because of those roots. I've been too hasty many a time and regretted not waiting.
31.5.08
Subject: Epiphyllums
Tina W. - USA
hello I have a newly acquired two year old 'german empress' and it just bloomed. I potted the plant and withheld water for a week misting lightly daily, My potting mix was cactus soil (miracle grow 3 month feed), perlite and small bark My question to you is I noticed there are some dark spots on a few of the leaves and being new to epies I'm not sure what it is or how to treat it. I had two people tell me it is due to blooming one saying over blooming stress" hope for the best" and the other saying it will be fine this is normal after blooming. I hope you can help me I'm a scare to lose it. The shiny spots you see are from recent misting
Answer
Tina W..
Did you read my article on this web site about how to grow epiphyllums? It will tell you everything you need to know to grow your plant successfully including what potting soil to use, etc.
You wrote to me a few days ago on this subject and I asked you what the analysis was of the soil mix you used. Miracle Gro sell a great variety of mixes intended for different plants with different needs. I can't tell you if the soil is correct without knowing what the analysis is. The article mentioned above will tell you what the soil requirements are for epis.
My article also says ...
Fungus and bacteria
Epi hybrids seem subject to a number of fungal and bacterial diseases sometimes showing up as black rot. Not much is known about why this happens or how to cure the problem.
I worry about the use of Miracle Gro soil for these plants because Miracle Gro says (on their web site) ....
"We do not sterilize Miracle-Gro(r) Potting Mix. Research studies have shown that the naturally occurring microorganisms present in the mix actually help plants absorb nutrients and result in fuller, healthier plants. The microorganisms present are not harmful to humans or pets, but as with any soil, we recommend handling the mix with gardening gloves to keep your hands clean." Since epis are prone to fungus and bacteria, I personally would prefer to use a mix that has been sterilized even though I understand the benefits as explained by Miracle Gro of not sterilizing it for many other plants.
With regard to your current "spot" problem, since you say you mist daily. That is far too often. The plants enjoy a humid atmosphere and "occasional" misting.
If you have hard water, especially if you are misting daily, that could cause problems too.
The spots have nothing to do with blooming - which information you obtained from other sources.
The second thing I observe is that your plant - if you are growing it where it is in the photo - is not getting enough light.
Epis need very bright light to be healthy. Lack of enough light weakens a plant and open it up to all sorts of problems.
The plant should never be allowed to totally dry out - but it should not be drowned either. Please read my article which also explains about watering epis.
Yes I read your article it was very helpful. I used cactus miracle soil 1/3, 1/3 perlite and about 1/3 small bark mixed together really well. The water meter I use is a rapid test mini meter from luster leaf. I have it off slightly to the side of my patio door it gets fairly bright light there but not directly. Do you think it may need more light? The photo I took and sent you was taken at night with the drapes closed. I do have hard water so I will stop the misting. It doesn't look like scale to you than? Thank you for all your help.
Answer
Your soil mix is on the lean side. Epis need a richer soil than most other cacti. I can't be specific because I still don't know the analysis of the soil mix you are using. It doesn't sound too bad though.
When your water meter shows the soil is almost dry it's time to thoroughly water the plant .. and then wait until the water meter shows it's almost dry again. Numbers on the meter are not that important because you are never going to control the moisture to the point where you keep the soil moisture at a specific number.
I can't tell how much light your plant is getting but sounds from what you say, and your photo, that the plant would be happier with more light. Any plant in a corner against walls will not be getting enough light on the back of the plant in any case.
Fairly bright is not enough. It needs the brightest light possible without direct sunshine.
No. The spots are definitely not scale.
So you do have hard water. Not a good idea to mist with it. Try collecting some rain water or buy bottled water and do mist occasionally but not every day and never when weather is cool, overcast or raining.
22.5.08
Subject: My garage sale Epi
Laura R. - Canada
I just read your incredible words of wisdom on these amazing plants. I
bought one from a neighbour back in '98 at her garage sale, and it sat for
many years just doing nothing. I had repotted it because the pot it was in
was terribly ugly! Not realizing that this would make it unhappy, I
patiently waited......and waited...........and waited some more. Summer 2005
I was FINALLY rewarded! And 2006 and 2007 as well!
During the late fall, winter and early spring, my Epi hangs in our foyer,
about 6 feet away from a large south facing window above our front door. It
has lots of air circulation here, and, lots of natural light. We don't keep
our house too hot, even in winter (much to my husband's chagrin) because my
plants don't like it! Once Spring FULLY arrives, I put my Epi outside, under
cover, on our deck when the temperatures do not go below 50.
Its first spot is under the eaves, with only morning and early evening
sunshine. Then, once the Wisteria is all filled in , it hangs under it,
still under cover, but all the while enjoying the filtered sunshine
throughout the day, through the wisteria leaves, so it just LOVES it. It
keeps my geraniums company as well!
Thought I would share this with you, as well as some pictures as well.
Thanks for the amazing info on these incredible cacti. I am going to take
some cuttings this year, and see if I can cultivate them and share their
beauty with friends and neighbours!
2.5.08
Subject: ID requested - Hylocereus
Roger D. - USA
Can you identify this plant for me?
Answer
I have your photos. Holy Smokes .. what a plant. I've never seen one that large before. I had to reduce the photo so it will show here as much, much smaller than the size of the tree/plant actually is.
This is a Hylocereus. I can't tell you the species because there are a number of look-alikes. If it ever flowers, which it should, I may be able to give you the species name as well. Has it ever flowered?
Hylocereus are some of the most spectacular climbing, night-flowering cacti. The name comes from the Greek hyle meaning forest - in other words 'Forest Cactus' which describes the habitat of Hylocereus. However, some species are found in fairly dry, open woodland areas that receive only seasonal rainfall. There are around 18 species. Most flower in summer.
These plants bear large, night blooming flowers. The blooms are the largest flowers in the cactus family. Flowers are usually white or creamy white some with pink or yellow coloring in lower petals. Some are fragrant.
Many species, such as yours, grow so fast they are difficult to keep in cultivation. Yours obviously loves that tree which is the ideal support for it.
This plant likes an even, humid, warm climate. Excessively low temperatures, dryness and in particular watering with water that is too cold .. will result in plants languishing and rotting, even on cool days in summer.
Hylocereus are often used as stock plants for grafting.
2.5.08
Subject: Agave attenuata
Kim - USA
My Agave atenuata has grown a long stem from the soil to the part with the levees, is it possible to cut the stem of, and plant the top of the plant without loosing the whole plant, and will the stem start shutting new leaves?.
Answer
This is the natural way this Agave grows, with a long stem, which eventually leans over. Yes, you can cut off the top of the plant, leave the cutting in a warm, dry place until the cut callouses over and then plant it. At that point soil can be damp but not soaking wet.
The stem that is left with the roots "may" produce new plants but the stem on the cutting will not.
If you stroll down this page you will find this same Agave discussed before. At that time the top was cut off and successfully rooted.
28.4.08
Subject: Epiphyllums
Barry - USA
Do Epis need a higher PH? The reason why I ask is because I shopped for a soil acidifier for my Epi plants. Found and bought this Soil Acidifier that states on the front cover 90% Element Sulfer, lowers PH, improves plant hardiness, and Improves color and general appearance. This application is used for Blueberries, Azaleas, Blue Hydrangeas and trees.
Should I use this product or should I just repot my epis with a peatmoss mixture?
Please let me know and thanks much!!
Answer
Epis need a soil that is more acidic than most other succulent plants. That is why I suggested you add a little peat to the potting soil to make sure it was more acidic than regular soil.
If you are going to use an acidifier for the soil then you need to know the pH of your soil first because if you add something strong meant for trees and shrubs outdoors, you could be making the soil too acid and how will you know how acid you are making it? A little too much around an outdoor shrub or tree doesn't do much harm .. but in a small pot .. it could do a lot of harm.
Since you said you were a beginner, if I were you I would not mess around with anything other than the bare necessities as I explained the plants need. Once you have an outstanding major collection of healthy plants !!! and want to experiment, you can buy a pH meter to measure your soil's acidity and take it from there. Then if you do something wrong and lose a plant it will be a learning experience not a disaster.
It is far easier and much safer to make a soil mix of potting soil and grit and adding a little peat to it. Then you use a tomato-type fertilizer at 1/4 strength once a month in spring and summer. However, if the soil mix is fresh you don't need to fertilize for the first six months. There will be enough nutrients in the fresh soil to keep the plants happy for that period of time. And do not feed during short day winter months.
28.4.08
Subject: New 'Epi' grower!
Barry S. - USA
Hello, Unfortunitely I am pretty much a weakling at all this Epiphyllum statistics and all but I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing by now. Added about five photos for you to check out. The very first photo is an Epiphyllum I bought near (Tampa) Florida area while my Mother spent her first month of vacation down there on Treasure Island in a condo right next to the Gulf of Mexico from the Fox Valley area of Wisconsin.
Right now I (Barry) am located in the town of Neenah, WI. My plants are currently located and have to be near the south window that I have in my dublex. From what I have read this location is not the best place for my plants to be. I also have a Epiphyllum oxypetalum "Night Blooming Cereus" and an Epiphyllum 'Gonways Giant' growing inside the same pot on her east side porch of her house that both seem to be doing fine. Ever since I have owned my own 'Epi' plants, I have never been able to get any flower buds off of there leaves from what I understand seems to be were the blooms appear.... Is there anything I need to be doing since I have been growing the Night Blooming Cereus for at least 3 years?
Please inform me if you will.... Thank you~!!
Answer
Barry S..
You are right. Epis do not like direct sun. They hate it. They also don't like high heat. If all you have is a south facing window then you have to find a way to shade the plants from the direct sun. 50% shade cloth over the window would do the trick and not be too expensive. On the other hand they won't get enough light if grown in a corner of the room where there is little or no light from a bright window.
If your plants are not flowering then they are not happy with their growing conditions.
Decide where you will grow the plants permanently and leave them in one location. They don't like to be moved around a lot. Every time you move them it takes time for them to become used to their new environment. This can affect flowering.
Most epiphyllums bloom in the daytime - they are technically Epiphyllum hybrids. The true Epiphyllum species flower at night. Not many people have those these days.
After seeing your photos, your pots are waaaaay too big. Epis prefer to be pot bound. This is one thing that can affect flowering. From what I see of your plants they would all be much happier in 4 to 5 inch pots.
What is that I see in the pot that you use for soil? The soil mix should be half good potting soil, 1/4 some type of grit for drainage and 1/4 peat for acidity. Very important that the soil has an acid reaction which is provided by the peat.
Epis need a period of several weeks of short days before blooming. Epis in the greenhouse enjoy this easily as there are no indoor lights to interfere with the short days. Indoors, however, you need to cover the plants at dusk so they are in total darkness and take off the cover next morning when it is once again light outside.
Finally, don't be too fast to take cuttings of plants. Let the plants grow to maturity and flowering size and if you need a cutting or two wait until there are plenty of extras. Each time you cut a plant you give it a shock. If plants are busy getting over shocks, they are too busy doing that to flower.
Have you read my article on Epiphyllums (Orchid Cactus) on this site?
Well Hello there Marina W.~!! Now that you explained all these inportant 'Epi' growing tips, I'm pretty sure I'm handleing them all wrong~!! Just for the fact that I don't have any type of PeatMoss added to the soil mixture of Potting soil, Orchid mix, and Perlite and that since I live in such a smaller dublex in the frozen Tundra of Wisconsin along the lines that I have been moving them quite often for there watering and fertilizing needs. I'm pretty sure nothing is going to happen for this springtime and summer. Like I said before, I'm a newby at all this along with the pot sizes that they are currently growing in.
I have been told elsewhere pretty much the same thing about pot sizes. I'm only 28 years old so I've got a lot of learning to do and I also need to build up patients for myself to find a better way of nurturing these wonderful plants. I'm just really upset that I still don't have it all down in a nutshell 'say to speak'.... Time will tell I guess.
Two more question for you Marina, If I subscribe to The Amateurs' Digest, what will this subscription do for me as in information? Your comment about my pot sizes, what can I do now that these 'Epis' have been going through a pattern of growth for the past couple months? Will I be able to retransplant them to a smaller sized pot?
Please let me know and thank you so much for your time to respond to my message~!!!
Answer
I don't know too much about orchids but I have read comments by various of their societies concerning Orchid potting mix. Apparently in time it can become highly acidic .. which could be too acidic for your epis, especially when you consider the amount of mix you have in such big pots.
You can transplant them any time into smaller pots. The only time I would not do that is when the plants are flowering.
It would be very nice to have you subscribe to our Digest but if you are looking for a publication devoted mainly to epis, while we have photos and information on the plants now and again, our Digest is devoted to a great variety of cacti, succulents and caudiciforms. If you plan to get involved in growing other plants, I would encourage you to join. If only epis, I'm not sure it would be of much use to you.
After 20 years in print our Digest will be going on line in full color September 1, 2008. Subscription cost will be very affordable. You might want to consider joining at that time. Details will be on our web site beginning of August.
21.4.08
Subject: Selenicereus anthonyanus
Shelly - USA
Can you identify this plant for me? You will be a hero if you do
Answer
Shelly
This plant is today called Selenicereus anthonyanus .. the old name which most people still call it (for information on the internet) was Cryptocereus anthonyanus.
I think this plant is too leggy. It needs more light but not direct sun. I see some long really skinny stems which are the result of that lack of light. Some of the edges look sunburned. Did you put it in the sun at some point? I think it also needs a change of soil with the addition of some peat (and grit to make it porous) which will give the soil the acid reaction this plant needs.
I don't have a photo at the moment (sorry) but if you Google Cryptocereus anthonoyanus and click on "images" you will see numerous photos of how the plant should look.
I'm a hero!!
Thank you Marina, I'm not sure it was ever set in the sun, but possibly. More likely it wasn't properly watered or was exposed to freezing temperatures. Those skinny growths you see are new growth and they haven't had any food or probably not even enough water. I did google it, and the I saw several with lovely flowers. Yes, it does likely need new soil.
Yes, you are my hero! Now I must take better care of it so it will bloom. My epie blooms every year since the year after I got it in 2004. This one bloom (attached photo) in 2005, five blooms in 2006, and two blooms in 2007. It's now about 12 feet tall. As you can see in the other photo it grew all the way to our 8' ceiling and about half way down again. Do you know, what time of year is best to take cuttings from it
Answer
Well there you are. You answered all your own questions. Unhappy epis won't bloom. To make them happy they need the right growing conditions.
The plant in the photo that grew all the way to your 8 ft. ceiling and down again is not getting enough light. That is evident by the long, skinny stems. When a plant doesn't get enough light it stretches out looking for more light. This is called etiolation.
You can take cuttings any time of year but not if plants are in flower. Best time though is in spring when cuttings are more likely to root.
21.4.08
Subject: Epiphyllums
Kay T. - USA
I received a cutting from a friend some time back and I planted it. I'm sorry to say that I didn't know how to take care of it, and it currently does not look good. I think I can salvage some of it, but may end up losing it. I have copied off your page on orchid cactus and I'm going to have a go at pruning and cuttings, but I think I would like to learn more about them and buy some more. Will you share a web page of someone who ships to private parties? Have you grown them under artificial lights? I live in the mountains in a valley that has a short growing season, and we are at around 2500 feet elevation. I would like to put my plant out in the summer, but I'm afraid it might do worse outside. So, I'm looking into a light setup.
Anyway, thank you in advance. (The blooms on your plants are exquisite.)
Answer
Kay T.
What's wrong with the cutting? This is the best time of year to root cuttings.
I don't know of any private parties that might have cuttings to share. You would have to try a free ad on our swap and shop page.
Yes you can grow them successfully under artificial lights.
You can put them out in summer but in a shady place and where they won't drown if it rains.
It looks pretty abused. It is light green, looks like it hasn't been watered
(it has) and it has very thin growths on it. I have been cruising the net,
and for one thing, I just planted it in potting soil, in a clay pot and then
put it in a window (south facing) So I think it has a sunburn as well as
poor growing medium. It just looks straggly. Nothing like the ones that I
saw at the amateurs digest.I have a ways to go before I rank as amateur.
LOL!! Thank you for the reply.
Answer
Most important don't put the plant in the sun. It must have bright light but not direct sunshine.
The potting soil has to be on the acid side. It needs to have a little peat added. Also some grit to make it very well draining. If you can repot into the right soil and put it in a place where it gets bright light with no sun, and don't water it until it looks better, it might survive. Don't feed it either.
13.4.08
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum (Cereus oxypetalus)
Michele S. - USA
It seems my night blooming cereus has gotten leaf spot and fungal rot I see in your article that you suggest it be destroyed Is there nothing to be done? I have had this plant for 20 years I guess this winter I was overly attentive with watering.
Please help
Answer
Michele S
What a shame. I know how you feel.
You don't have to destroy it if it has any healthy leaves and if you can keep it totally isolated from other plants.
Are there no healthy leaves or parts of leaves you can use as cuttings to start new plants? If not the plant is a gonner I'm afraid. Where exactly is the rot?
Thank you so much for writing back.
It does have lots of healthy parts left. I have quit watering for awhile and will let it get really dry before watering again. I guess I was thinking the same thing you suggest, that if it continues to attack the plant I will cut off all the good pieces and reroot.
I had planned to repot it as soon as I can take it outside. I live in an apt. bldg in Brooklyn, NY. My apt doesn't get a whole lot of light (I had brought the plant from a former home in Ohio). It does well outside hanging on my window gate. If it can hang in there until mid-may when I can hang it outside, I am hoping it might recover. But I was going to take it out of the pot once it is outside and see what has happened to the roots. Maybe I can cut off bad parts. Do they actually turn to mush?
Do you think repotting and getting rid of some of the rotted root will help?
One new arm - of the plant not the root - actually had a long blister on it that was kind of gooey yellow. I have cut off all blackened shoots at their nodes on the bigger stem they had grown from. I never imagined I could have overwatered it after all these years. And I had just given it some fish fertilizer which they also say not to do.
Any info or insight you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you again very much
Answer
From what you say the problem may well be not enough light. While the plant should not be grown in full sun it nevertheless needs very bright light .. otherwise lack of light will eventually weaken the plant and then it is open to all kinds of problems such as the ones you are having. You might consider a grow light. There are all types now including single ones for plants. If there are lots of healthy parts left I suggest for the leaves affected you cut them right off at the stem.
Yes,rot can turn leaves and roots to mush.
Yes I would repot the plant. I would also give it a good spray with a fungicide.
I would not fertilize it until you see definite signs of improvement. I would not water it either until you can unpot it and see what condition the roots are in.
7.4.08
Subject: Watering after transplanting
Jon - USA
We recently bought some cacti and succulents at the Colorado Cactus and Succulent Society Show at The Denver Botanic Gardens. We were told not to water them right away. About when should each be watered after transplanting? Thank you,
Answer
I wish I knew which plants you bought and where you plan to grow them. It would make the answer so much easier.
In general once the temperature day and night stays at 50F or above, you can water the plants. At this time of year it is not only watering that awakens them from a winter sleep but also the lengthening daylight hours.
It is generally recommended when repotting plants that you wait to water them for three or four days to give any damaged roots a chance to heal. If you think the roots have not been damaged at all then you don't have to wait.
If the plants are named and you want to send the names to me I'll give you a few more tips about light, etc.
4.4.08
Subject: Watering
Marly M - USA
When should I start watering my cactus plants? They had no water all winter.
Answer
Once you can maintain a temperature of around 50For higher .. you can start watering the plants again. There are always exceptions but on average most will enjoy a drink now. If an area is still cold and wet I'd wait another couple of weeks.
27.3.08
Subject: HELP! Pleiospilos nelii
Andrew
I am relatively new to the world of Cactus collecting and I was given 5 Cacti and a Cacti and Succulents Begginers book for my christmas from my gran. I was given 2 Pleiosus Nelii and a pot of Pleiosus in those 5. I looked through the book and I followed the instructions. but one of the pleiosplus Nelii slowly turned grey-black and floppy. also in the pot of pleiosplus half died but half thrived. what's going on?
Answer
It's always difficult to say what's wrong without knowing what conditions the plants have had since you have had them.
For example, how much light have they been getting? How much watering? What if any fertilizer and how often? Did you repot them and if so what did you use for potting soil?
I think you mean Pleiospilos nelii for one of the plants. There is no such plant called Pleiosus.
And by the way these are succulents but they are not cactus plants.
Pleispilos nelii comes from South Africa where growing seasons are opposite to ours. These need to be watered and fed from late summer to early autumn and left fairly dry the rest of the year. They are highly succulent plants so you have to be careful not to over water them and to water them at the right time. They also prefer a very gritty soil. More grit than potting soil that is.
If half the plants in the pot are dying it probably won't be long before the other half follow suit.
These plants, in the family Aizoaceae, are best grown in a sunny greenhouse. They need maximum light to maintain healthy growth.
6.3.08
Subject: Bromeliads
Maria - USA
A few weeks ago I got some bromeliads as a gift. There's 3 different kinds and I attached an image of it. Just recently the leaves are getting yellow and brown and the small purple flower is losing it's color. I'm not sure what I should do so they won't die. I really need some advice. I was thinking about transplanting them. I don't know if they might need a bigger place or if their soil might be too wet. I don't know if you could please give me some advice on what actions I should take. I would so much appreciate it. Thanks
Answer
The smaller plant at the back with the pink bract is called Tillandsia cyanea. Sorry to say I can't ID the bigger one in the front or the third one I can't see very well. Have seen that one with the red flower somewhere. If it pops to the front of my head I will let you know.
Nevertheless the answer is the same for all of them. Unfortunately, while flowering is a sign of good health and maturity, it also indicates that the plants are preparing to put their energy into the production of offsets, and then the mature plant will die. When the parent plant has faded completely, these babies can be detached and rooted (if roots have not already formed) and they will grow up to be like the original plants and in turn flower and produce pups of their own.
Don't remove the pups until they are about 1/3 the size of the mother plants. I don't discard the mature plants until they are very dead because if you continue to water and feed them they can produce anywhere from one to many new offsets.
Tillandsias are often called "air plants" because of their ability to survive without soil, roots or water. They survive by clinging to rocks and trees where they rely upon rain water and dust to supply all the moisture and nutrient that they will ever receive. Sometimes they are grown in pots such as the one mentioned that you have .. I have found this particular Tillandsia does better in a pot than mounted.
Bromeliads take in moisture through their leaves so you should mist them with warm water a couple of times a week in spring and summer.
Let the soil dry out between waterings. If repotting they like a mix that is on the acid side. To a good well draining potting mix add some peat to make it more acidic.
Good luck. These are gorgeous plants. But be careful. You could get hooked!!
6.3.08
Subject: Columnar cactus dying on top
Vera
My friend has a tall cactus it is one shaft growing up al least 8 feet. The top is turning brown and looks to be dying. The base and shaft are healthy. We are wondering if cutting off the top portion around 6" will help the plant. The cactus is about 8" around. Any suggestions?
Answer
Yes, that's the right thing to do. Once you cut off what you think is the bad part .. have a look at the inside tissue where you made the cut (on the original plant). If it is moist and healthy looking, kind of a creamy color, that's all you need to cut. If it is brown or has brown spots, then the problem has gone further down inside the plant. Cut again a couple of inches until you reach clear, healthy tissue.
I hope this cactus (if it is a cactus and not a Euphorbia) is not being grown in the house. Most columnar cacti need much more light than can be provided in a home environment.
6.3.08
Subject: Crassulas not doing well.
Shauna J. - USA
I have a Crassullar hobbit and a crassular jade (money plant) bits seem to be dropping off both plants, what am I doing wrong? The crassular hobbit was perfectly fine until I moved house 3 years ago and it has been very unhappy ever since it seems to be dying. It sat on the windowsill on a hall. I now have it on my kitchen table, I moved it from the kitchen bench to the table as I thought it would get a bit more light. Admittedly the smaller branches aren't falling off as much. I also have a crassulla jade ( it's a money plant) and the bits are falling off this one too, I have moved this form the bathroom to the bedroom windowsill very recently to see if that cheers him up any. Perhaps my hobbit needs repotted do you think that would help? If so what type of compost
should I use?
Answer
I'm afraid the photo you sent aborted. All I got was a gray line. If you'd like to try again, I'd love to see it.
Crassulas need a lot of sunshine to do well. I think that is your plants' main problem. Bathrooms are too humid for succulents as well.
To repot - wait until you see signs of improvement and then use any good houseplant potting soil and mix in enough coarse sand or grit to make the soil very well draining.
Move the plants to a sunny location. Water very sparingly for a while .. and let's hope they do better.
21.2.08
Subject: Growing Cactus Indoors
Chris M. - USA
I don't have a greenhouse. I love cactus plants but was told I can't grow those in the house. Is that true? I have lots of bright windows.
Answer
If you have a window where the plants receive several hours of sun a day, you can grow, to name a few, Aporocactus, Notocactus, Echinopsis and small mammillarias. I say small only because space is always limited when growing in the home. In hot summer sun Echinopsis will need some shade. Some people grow them in full sun but others find the plants burn as mine do. Depends on how strong the sun is. Epiphyllums, Christmas and Easter cacti also do well at a very bright window keeping in mind they don't like full sun in hottest months of the year. They do enjoy the sun in fall and winter months when it is not as strong at the rest of the year. The same applies to rebutias which like very bright light but not hot sun. Rebutias are wonderful plants. They flower regularly in spring for several weeks at a time and the flowers are quiet large and very colorful.
There are cactus plants that will never do well in the house, too numerous to mention here. Cactus with very dense spines and dense wool should be avoided. They need lots of sunshine to penetrate those dense spines and cool covering the plant bodies.
A good bet is to check out plants offered by reputable cactus and succulent nurseries (because they are usually named plants) .. and when you have an idea of what you'd like to grow, contact me and give me the names and I'll recommend which I think would do well in the home. Dealers offering named plants will often offer good advice too. Who better than they know more about the plants they sell?
17.2.08
Subject: Euphorbias and parrots
Irene - USA
I have a Euphorbia of some kind and I have a parrot. Is it dangerous for parrots?
Answer
YES. The white sap inside can kill a bird. Parrots tend to chew things including stems and leaves of plants. Even if you have one that doesn't have this tendency you never know when he/she might have a hankering for something to chew on and decide the Euphorbia looks tasty.
13.2.08
Subject: Crassula Fertilizer/Feed
Branden P.
I came across your site and publications recently and I am really impressed with the content. I have been successful in growing several crassula (hobbit(still can't believe it), Crosby's compact, ovata, and lactea from leaves. I recently read the article on the site about fertilizers/feed. It suggested a 20-20-20 when not in bloom and a 20-30-20 when in bloom to maintain the flowers. Now I'm pretty far away from flowers but I would love a suggestion on where I can find the fertilizer mentioned in the article. No brand name was given, so I'm at a loss here. Currently I have Schultz Cactus Plus with micro nutrients. It has not been used yet, that is why I'm asking. I've also recently educated myself on soils, so when it warms up here, they will all get re potted with fresh soil that I will be preparing. Thank you for the wonderful site and any information you can help me with.
Answer
So glad you enjoy our web site.
If you have Schultz Cactus Plus Liquid Plant Food with Micronutrients 2-7-7 the supplier says it is specially formulated for all cacti, jade, aloe, etc. It is a good product and you would use it at full strength as recommended on the label. If you use another brand where the formula is 20-20-20 then you should mix it at 1/4 strength recommended on the label to make sure the plants are not receiving too much nitrogen. Switching to 20-30-20 just before flowering time, again at 1/4 strength is a good idea to encourage flowering. Whatever brand you buy try to get a fertilizer that contains trace elements.
There are many brands of good fertilizers. Each one will tell you on the label whether it is 20-20-20 or 20-30-20, etc. and whether it has trace elements. It doesn't matter which brand you choose.
So in a nutshell you can use the Schultz that you have but mix it at full strength as instructed on the label.
With regard to new soil mix it should be very well draining. When you have finished mixing it .. take up a handful and squeeze it. If it falls apart .. it's perfect. If it doesn't fall apart, you need more sand or grit or whatever to make it drain better.
9.2.08
Subject: Euphorbia leuconeura
Judy Z. - USA
Can you help identify this plant for me please?
Answer
Sure can. This is Euphorbia leuconeura. It comes from Madagascar.
2.2.08
Subject: Orchid cactus not flowering
Maureen - USA
Hi Marina, I would love some advice from you concerning my cactus. I have a huge orchid cactus which purchased in late March approx. 4 years ago at a nursery in Connecticut. When I bought it the cactus was so beautiful, loaded with tons of flowers. The next spring I had two flowers, so I repotted it thinking maybe it needed a soil boost. It's ALWAYS looked really healthy, constantly growing. The following spring only one flower. We moved that May(2006) to Delaware to a house with a fantastic sun room and al ot of bright rooms without direct sun. Spring 2007 not one flower. PLEASE HELP me....I love this plant and can't figure out the problem.
Answer
I presume you have read the article on this site entitled Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus?
No enough light -- Over feeding -- Soil too alkaline (should have an acid reaction) can be some of the causes of lack of or minimum flowering. If a plant is fed too much or too strong a fertilizer that could encourage green growth at the expense of flowers.
Many plants don't appreciate being moved around too much. If a plant is used to growing in one location .. it often takes time to adjust to a new one.
23.1.08
Subject: Echinopsis (Trichocereus) problems
Dawn - USA
hello there I have this cactus that someone had given me for a house warming gift when i live in Az. i brought the cactus home (back in Pa) and it has not done too well i have had it for4 years i think and although it has continued to grow in length it is very leggy i have just read about the southern exposure and will be moving it to a window facing south but what my question is; what is wrong with it? here you can see it has just bent over i believe because it has gotten too soft.
The base is yellow and hard and does not look like the photos of scale that i have seen.
I think my only course of action is to cut the tip and regrow it... my friend died shortly from a random act of violence after giving this to me and i would like to save it i am pretty sure it is a san pedro cactus at least that the closest i can identify it. can i use the new roots to start it with or do i need to root it from the cut end. if you can help i would appreciate it very much .
Thank you very much
Answer
This is a very sick cactus. It may be San Pedro Cactus but I wouldn't want to commit to that since the plant is in very poor condition and may look different if it was in healthy condition. It is, however, an Echinopsis, previously known as Trichocereus. Information is more likely found on the net under Trichocereus. An Pedro Cactus is Trichocereus pachanoi or Echinopsis pachanoi.
This cactus never does well in the house. It needs lots of sunshine and does best in a greenhouse. This plant has grown long and skinny, the top searching for more light .. and in the process has become very weak which might be one reason why it is bending over like that. Over watering, soil that doesn't drain well also reasons for soft tissue and tendency to bend over.
The marks on the bottom of the plant are not scale. They are corking marks which come with age.
The rest of the marks also a type of corking .. one of the problems a cactus develops as a result of poor growing conditions. Usually there is some corking at the base but not all over the plant.
The "new roots" as you call them along the stem are NOT roots. I am not sure what they are because they are not big enough to see clearly. I do know they are not roots.
I would cut off the top of the plant that looks fairly normal, root it and begin again. You can also chop off the rest of the plant down to about four inches above soil level and with luck it may produce new branches.
Do this only in warm, summer weather when the season is good for most plants to put on new growth.
Send me a new pic when the growths are larger and I'll see if I can tell you what they are.
23.1.08
Subject: Oreocereus ID please
Colin - Australia
This rather straggly cactus was abandoned by the previous owner of my house ( too prickly to pack I guess) and has just hung around getting taller and having two offspring at the base. Suddenly, two days ago it produced, virtually overnight, two green 'flowers' (?) which looked a bit like artichokes. One day later, before I got around to photographing them they turned black . Today one had fallen off and I photographed the other just in time before it too fell off. Lots of grey 'wool' amongst the spines at the top .
Could you please give me some information on it ?
Best regards from Queensland Australia where we are having 32°C days, 25°C nights and 70% humidity!
Answer
Colin
This is an Oreocereus from South America .. which has been seriously lacking sunshine for a very long time. The top of the plant is what the entire plant should look like. I am very surprised that the plant produced flowers. Perhaps it put on a show hoping it would excite the new owner into give it better growing conditions.
It needs a bigger pot. It should receive full sun all day long and be careful not to over water as it is prone to rot if roots are kept soaking wet for too long.
Thank you Marina - what a great name - sounds like "are you serious?" . I shall pot it up with caution and lots of newspaper padding ! Do you think the two young ones would do better if I terminated grandpa - who is looking a bit tatty with all that poor -growth section ? Sunshine I have lots of, and strangely the poor old thing has always been in it - at least for the last four years since I bought the house. Maybe the previous owner had it in the shade and just turfed it out into the sun when leaving. Would some half strength seaweed liquid fertilizer help it ? It gets no rain where it is but I give it water in a fair amount about once a fortnight and it does drain well.
Answer
You're welcome Colin. Yes it is a great name. I do think the two young ones would do better if terminated from the largest plant.
It's interesting you say since you've had the plant it's always been in the sunshine .. which goes to show once it had sunshine it began to show it's normal growth form (on top of plant).
I don't know what the make-up is of liquid seaweed fertilizer. Why not just use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength.
I mix at half strength for all my tall columnar growing cacti.
Water the plant when it needs watering - not on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule. Once you use a bigger pot it will take longer for the soil to dry out. Water it only when the soil is almot dry.
23.1.08
Subject: Lithops
Jan - Australia
I don't know whether you can answer this question. But, here goes. Are Lithops available in Australia and will they grow in sub-tropical to tropical areas.
Thanks
Answer
I do know there are hobbyists who grow Lithops in very hot and humid climates. If you can give them sufficient light, good ventilation and resist the temptation to keep watering them there are few problems.
I have not heard of a commercial source in Australia. When I post this to our web site perhaps someone will come forward if they know of a source there. An alternative of course would be to grow the plants from seeds. You could also post a free ad on this web site asking other hobbyists in Australia if they have Lithops for sale.
23.1.08
Subject: Cotyledon tomentosa (Bears's Paw)
Virginia M. - USA
I've been given a gift of a bearspaw a very lovely plant, but I'm loosing it. stems have become hard and brittle and the paws are falling off. No one I know has ever seen one of these plants. It came from california. If you could offer any information or help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou
Answer
Some plants have more than one common name so I have to guess this might be Cotyledon tomentosa. It sounds like something is wrong in the plant's growing conditions. Without knowing those conditions I can't say why the stems are brittle. However, when parts begin to fall off succulent plants, that is usually a sign of over-watering or compacted soil which won't allow the water to drain off and let the soil dry out between waterings. Enough light is important too. This plant needs sunshine to grow well. In hottest climates filtered sun is best.
13.1.08
Subject: Aeoniums & X Pachyveria
Gail G - USA
I would appreciate your input on a couple of questions.
First, about when to re-pot aeoniums. Mine put on most of their growth in the winter, when they grow under fluorscent lights (they go outside in the summer but quickly go dormant in our heat). Since they do grow so well now, isn't this the best time to re-pot them? I keep reading to re-pot in spring but am wondering why wait when they grow in winter. One plant is really underpotted, its sending down adventitious roots and dries out real fast. Is there any reason I can't/shouldn't re-pot it now?
Answer
Gail
There are different views on when to repot and when not to repot. I personally don't believe it matters because having a very large collection I wouldn't have the time to repot everything at a specific time. I have to do a few at a time throughout the year. And I've never had any problems.
As a matter of interest my Aeonium did something unexpected last year. In a 10 inch pot with one large rosette, it was growing in my greenhouse for three years doing nothing much. I decided in spring to put it outside in the sunshine. My thought was that since it was a winter grower, it would have a nice rest out there through spring and summer and I would let nature water it. I paid no attention to it until fall when I remembered I should bring it in to the greenhouse before cold set in. To my amazement the plant now had 12 large rosettes. Back in the greenhouse I hoped it would flower but nothing has happened yet. I'm convinced direct sun had something to do with this unusual growth and the fact it grew in spring and summer proves some plants do change their habits.
Second question is about "beheading" Pachyveria glauca. I haven't found any references to doing this, but have one that's grown up along a stem and is so heavy it leans so I have to prop other pots next to it. It's got good tight growth all along the stem so kind of hate to do it, but really tired of this leaning tower of packyveria! Can I lop off the top rosette as is done with echeverias? If so, probably could get a couple more plants from the stem, or it might start new growth lower down. My other p. glaucas all stayed low rosettes; have you heard of these plants growing taller? Thanks for any advice!
Answer
X Pachyveria is a cross between Echeveria and Pachyphytum. Such crosses can only be propagated vegetatively. Yes, you can remove a rosette to pot up and root, same as you do echeverias. And yes, you should get more small plants growing on the remaining stem. I would be patient and do this in spring rather than now when the plant is not in full growth. As for the plant growing taller than usual, I'd have to see a photo of it cause I'm not sure what you mean. For one thing, if you had the plant under lights inside during the winter, the plant may have etiolated (stretched up) looking for more light. Plants needing very high light sometimes will do that.
13.1.08
Subject: Greenhouse temperature in winter
Tatiania W - USA
I have a big collection with many cacti, many succulents and a few orchids and bromeliads. At what temperature should I keep the greenhouse in winter to be on the safe side for all the plants.
Answer
That's a tricky question. I will try to come up with a tricky answer.
With a large, varied collection it is not easy to keep all the plants happy at the same temperature because some will tolerate more cold than others. However, since I have the same type of large and varied collection, I can tell you I keep my greenhouse at a minimum of 55F and have had no casualties. I suspect 50F would be okay too but I hesitate to take that chance and lose some of my more tropical plants.
I keep my cacti very dry all winter. I keep the mix for the orchids moist (a little water every two weeks) because there is much higher humidity in the greenhouse in winter so they don't need a slurp of water too often. I do not keep water in the cups of bromeliads but I do make sure there is some moisture in the soil (not soaking all the time) and on days when the sun is shining and temperature warm in the morning, I mist them all with warmish water.
I have noticed many bromeliads grow and produce pups in winter months probably because the winter season here is the summer season in their habitat countries. I even have one flowering right now - Aechmea recurvata.
I do not feed any of my plants in winter months.
12.1.08
