Answer
Epis need a soil that is more acidic than most other succulent plants. That is why I suggested you add a little peat to the potting soil to make sure it was more acidic than regular soil.
If you are going to use an acidifier for the soil then you need to know the pH of your soil first because if you add something strong meant for trees and shrubs outdoors, you could be making the soil too acid and how will you know how acid you are making it? A little too much around an outdoor shrub or tree doesn't do much harm .. but in a small pot .. it could do a lot of harm.
Since you said you were a beginner, if I were you I would not mess around with anything other than the bare necessities as I explained the plants need. Once you have an outstanding major collection of healthy plants !!! and want to experiment, you can buy a pH meter to measure your soil's acidity and take it from there. Then if you do something wrong and lose a plant it will be a learning experience not a disaster.
It is far easier and much safer to make a soil mix of potting soil and grit and adding a little peat to it. Then you use a tomato-type fertilizer at 1/4 strength once a month in spring and summer. However, if the soil mix is fresh you don't need to fertilize for the first six months. There will be enough nutrients in the fresh soil to keep the plants happy for that period of time. And do not feed during short day winter months.
28.4.08

Barry S. - USA
Hello, Unfortunitely I am pretty much a weakling at all this Epiphyllum statistics and all but I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing by now. Added about five photos for you to check out. The very first photo is an Epiphyllum I bought near (Tampa) Florida area while my Mother spent her first month of vacation down there on Treasure Island in a condo right next to the Gulf of Mexico from the Fox Valley area of Wisconsin.
Right now I (Barry) am located in the town of Neenah, WI. My plants are currently located and have to be near the south window that I have in my dublex. From what I have read this location is not the best place for my plants to be. I also have a Epiphyllum oxypetalum "Night Blooming Cereus" and an Epiphyllum 'Gonways Giant' growing inside the same pot on her east side porch of her house that both seem to be doing fine. Ever since I have owned my own 'Epi' plants, I have never been able to get any flower buds off of there leaves from what I understand seems to be were the blooms appear.... Is there anything I need to be doing since I have been growing the Night Blooming Cereus for at least 3 years?
Please inform me if you will.... Thank you~!!

Answer
You are right. Epis do not like direct sun. They hate it. They also don't like high heat. If all you have is a south facing window then you have to find a way to shade the plants from the direct sun. 50% shade cloth over the window would do the trick and not be too expensive. On the other hand they won't get enough light if grown in a corner of the room where there is little or no light from a bright window.
If your plants are not flowering then they are not happy with their growing conditions.
Decide where you will grow the plants permanently and leave them in one location. They don't like to be moved around a lot. Every time you move them it takes time for them to become used to their new environment. This can affect flowering.
Most epiphyllums bloom in the daytime - they are technically Epiphyllum hybrids. The true Epiphyllum species flower at night. Not many people have those these days.
After seeing your photos, your pots are waaaaay too big. Epis prefer to be pot bound. This is one thing that can affect flowering. From what I see of your plants they would all be much happier in 4 to 5 inch pots.
What is that I see in the pot that you use for soil? The soil mix should be half good potting soil, 1/4 some type of grit for drainage and 1/4 peat for acidity. Very important that the soil has an acid reaction which is provided by the peat.
Epis need a period of several weeks of short days before blooming. Epis in the greenhouse enjoy this easily as there are no indoor lights to interfere with the short days. Indoors, however, you need to cover the plants at dusk so they are in total darkness and take off the cover next morning when it is once again light outside.
Finally, don't be too fast to take cuttings of plants. Let the plants grow to maturity and flowering size and if you need a cutting or two wait until there are plenty of extras. Each time you cut a plant you give it a shock. If plants are busy getting over shocks, they are too busy doing that to flower.
Have you read my article on Epiphyllums (Orchid Cactus) on this site?

Barry S..
Well Hello there Marina W.~!! Now that you explained all these inportant 'Epi' growing tips, I'm pretty sure I'm handleing them all wrong~!! Just for the fact that I don't have any type of PeatMoss added to the soil mixture of Potting soil, Orchid mix, and Perlite and that since I live in such a smaller dublex in the frozen Tundra of Wisconsin along the lines that I have been moving them quite often for there watering and fertilizing needs. I'm pretty sure nothing is going to happen for this springtime and summer. Like I said before, I'm a newby at all this along with the pot sizes that they are currently growing in. I have been told elsewhere pretty much the same thing about pot sizes. I'm only 28 years old so I've got a lot of learning to do and I also need to build up patients for myself to find a better way of nurturing these wonderful plants. I'm just really upset that I still don't have it all down in a nutshell 'say to speak'.... Time will tell I guess.
Two more question for you Marina, If I subscribe to The Amateurs' Digest, what will this subscription do for me as in information? Your comment about my pot sizes, what can I do now that these 'Epis' have been going through a pattern of growth for the past couple months? Will I be able to retransplant them to a smaller sized pot?
Please let me know and thank you so much for your time to respond to my message~!!!

Answer

I don't know too much about orchids but I have read comments by various of their societies concerning Orchid potting mix. Apparently in time it can become highly acidic .. which could be too acidic for your epis, especially when you consider the amount of mix you have in such big pots.
You can transplant them any time into smaller pots. The only time I would not do that is when the plants are flowering.
It would be very nice to have you subscribe to our Digest but if you are looking for a publication devoted mainly to epis, while we have photos and information on the plants now and again, our Digest is devoted to a great variety of cacti, succulents and caudiciforms. If you plan to get involved in growing other plants, I would encourage you to join. If only epis, I'm not sure it would be of much use to you.
After 20 years in print our Digest will be going on line in full color September 1, 2008. Subscription cost will be very affordable. You might want to consider joining at that time. Details will be on our web site beginning of August.
21.4.08

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Subject: Selenicereus anthonyanus

Shelly - USA
Can you identify this plant for me? You will be a hero if you do

Answer
This plant is today called Selenicereus anthonyanus .. the old name which most people still call it (for information on the internet) was Cryptocereus anthonyanus.
I think this plant is too leggy. It needs more light but not direct sun. I see some long really skinny stems which are the result of that lack of light. Some of the edges look sunburned. Did you put it in the sun at some point? I think it also needs a change of soil with the addition of some peat (and grit to make it porous) which will give the soil the acid reaction this plant needs.
I don't have a photo at the moment (sorry) but if you Google Cryptocereus anthonoyanus and click on "images" you will see numerous photos of how the plant should look.
I'm a hero!!

Shelly

Thank you Marina, I'm not sure it was ever set in the sun, but possibly. More likely it wasn't properly watered or was exposed to freezing temperatures. Those skinny growths you see are new growth and they haven't had any food or probably not even enough water. I did google it, and the I saw several with lovely flowers. Yes, it does likely need new soil.
Yes, you are my hero! Now I must take better care of it so it will bloom. My epie blooms every year since the year after I got it in 2004. This one bloom (attached photo) in 2005, five blooms in 2006, and two blooms in 2007. It's now about 12 feet tall. As you can see in the other photo it grew all the way to our 8' ceiling and about half way down again. Do you know, what time of year is best to take cuttings from it

Answer

Well there you are. You answered all your own questions. Unhappy epis won't bloom. To make them happy they need the right growing conditions.
The plant in the photo that grew all the way to your 8 ft. ceiling and down again is not getting enough light. That is evident by the long, skinny stems. When a plant doesn't get enough light it stretches out looking for more light. This is called etiolation.
You can take cuttings any time of year but not if plants are in flower. Best time though is in spring when cuttings are more likely to root.
21.4.08

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Subject: Epiphyllums
Kay T. - USA
I received a cutting from a friend some time back and I planted it. I'm sorry to say that I didn't know how to take care of it, and it currently does not look good. I think I can salvage some of it, but may end up losing it. I have copied off your page on orchid cactus and I'm going to have a go at pruning and cuttings, but I think I would like to learn more about them and buy some more. Will you share a web page of someone who ships to private parties? Have you grown them under artificial lights? I live in the mountains in a valley that has a short growing season, and we are at around 2500 feet elevation. I would like to put my plant out in the summer, but I'm afraid it might do worse outside. So, I'm looking into a light setup.
Anyway, thank you in advance. (The blooms on your plants are exquisite.)

Answer
What's wrong with the cutting? This is the best time of year to root cuttings.
I don't know of any private parties that might have cuttings to share. You would have to try a free ad on our swap and shop page.
Yes you can grow them successfully under artificial lights.
You can put them out in summer but in a shady place and where they won't drown if it rains.

Kay T.
It looks pretty abused. It is light green, looks like it hasn't been watered (it has) and it has very thin growths on it. I have been cruising the net, and for one thing, I just planted it in potting soil, in a clay pot and then put it in a window (south facing) So I think it has a sunburn as well as poor growing medium. It just looks straggly. Nothing like the ones that I saw at the amateurs digest.I have a ways to go before I rank as amateur. LOL!! Thank you for the reply.

Answer

Most important don't put the plant in the sun. It must have bright light but not direct sunshine.
The potting soil has to be on the acid side. It needs to have a little peat added. Also some grit to make it very well draining. If you can repot into the right soil and put it in a place where it gets bright light with no sun, and don't water it until it looks better, it might survive. Don't feed it either.
13.4.08

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Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum (Cereus oxypetalus)
Michele S. - USA
It seems my night blooming cereus has gotten leaf spot and fungal rot I see in your article that you suggest it be destroyed Is there nothing to be done? I have had this plant for 20 years I guess this winter I was overly attentive with watering.
Please help

Answer
What a shame. I know how you feel.
You don't have to destroy it if it has any healthy leaves and if you can keep it totally isolated from other plants.
Are there no healthy leaves or parts of leaves you can use as cuttings to start new plants? If not the plant is a gonner I'm afraid. Where exactly is the rot?

Michele S
Thank you so much for writing back.
It does have lots of healthy parts left. I have quit watering for awhile and will let it get really dry before watering again. I guess I was thinking the same thing you suggest, that if it continues to attack the plant I will cut off all the good pieces and reroot.
I had planned to repot it as soon as I can take it outside. I live in an apt. bldg in Brooklyn, NY. My apt doesn't get a whole lot of light (I had brought the plant from a former home in Ohio). It does well outside hanging on my window gate. If it can hang in there until mid-may when I can hang it outside, I am hoping it might recover. But I was going to take it out of the pot once it is outside and see what has happened to the roots. Maybe I can cut off bad parts. Do they actually turn to mush?
Do you think repotting and getting rid of some of the rotted root will help?
One new arm - of the plant not the root - actually had a long blister on it that was kind of gooey yellow. I have cut off all blackened shoots at their nodes on the bigger stem they had grown from. I never imagined I could have overwatered it after all these years. And I had just given it some fish fertilizer which they also say not to do.
Any info or insight you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you again very much

Answer

From what you say the problem may well be not enough light. While the plant should not be grown in full sun it nevertheless needs very bright light .. otherwise lack of light will eventually weaken the plant and then it is open to all kinds of problems such as the ones you are having. You might consider a grow light. There are all types now including single ones for plants. If there are lots of healthy parts left I suggest for the leaves affected you cut them right off at the stem.
Yes,rot can turn leaves and roots to mush.
Yes I would repot the plant. I would also give it a good spray with a fungicide.
I would not fertilize it until you see definite signs of improvement. I would not water it either until you can unpot it and see what condition the roots are in.
7.4.08

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Subject: Watering after transplanting
Jon - USA
We recently bought some cacti and succulents at the Colorado Cactus and Succulent Society Show at The Denver Botanic Gardens. We were told not to water them right away. About when should each be watered after transplanting? Thank you,

Answer
I wish I knew which plants you bought and where you plan to grow them. It would make the answer so much easier.
In general once the temperature day and night stays at 50F or above, you can water the plants. At this time of year it is not only watering that awakens them from a winter sleep but also the lengthening daylight hours.
It is generally recommended when repotting plants that you wait to water them for three or four days to give any damaged roots a chance to heal. If you think the roots have not been damaged at all then you don't have to wait.
If the plants are named and you want to send the names to me I'll give you a few more tips about light, etc.
4.4.08

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Subject: Watering
Marly M - USA
When should I start watering my cactus plants? They had no water all winter.

Answer
Once you can maintain a temperature of around 50For higher .. you can start watering the plants again. There are always exceptions but on average most will enjoy a drink now. If an area is still cold and wet I'd wait another couple of weeks.
27.3.08

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Subject: HELP! Pleiospilos nelii
Andrew
I am relatively new to the world of Cactus collecting and I was given 5 Cacti and a Cacti and Succulents Begginers book for my christmas from my gran. I was given 2 Pleiosus Nelii and a pot of Pleiosus in those 5. I looked through the book and I followed the instructions. but one of the pleiosplus Nelii slowly turned grey-black and floppy. also in the pot of pleiosplus half died but half thrived. what's going on?

Answer
It's always difficult to say what's wrong without knowing what conditions the plants have had since you have had them.
For example, how much light have they been getting? How much watering? What if any fertilizer and how often? Did you repot them and if so what did you use for potting soil?
I think you mean Pleiospilos nelii for one of the plants. There is no such plant called Pleiosus.
And by the way these are succulents but they are not cactus plants.
Pleispilos nelii comes from South Africa where growing seasons are opposite to ours. These need to be watered and fed from late summer to early autumn and left fairly dry the rest of the year. They are highly succulent plants so you have to be careful not to over water them and to water them at the right time. They also prefer a very gritty soil. More grit than potting soil that is.
If half the plants in the pot are dying it probably won't be long before the other half follow suit.
These plants, in the family Aizoaceae, are best grown in a sunny greenhouse. They need maximum light to maintain healthy growth.
6.3.08

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Subject: Bromeliads

Maria - USA
A few weeks ago I got some bromeliads as a gift. There's 3 different kinds and I attached an image of it. Just recently the leaves are getting yellow and brown and the small purple flower is losing it's color. I'm not sure what I should do so they won't die. I really need some advice. I was thinking about transplanting them. I don't know if they might need a bigger place or if their soil might be too wet. I don't know if you could please give me some advice on what actions I should take. I would so much appreciate it. Thanks

Answer
The smaller plant at the back with the pink bract is called Tillandsia cyanea. Sorry to say I can't ID the bigger one in the front or the third one I can't see very well. Have seen that one with the red flower somewhere. If it pops to the front of my head I will let you know.
Nevertheless the answer is the same for all of them. Unfortunately, while flowering is a sign of good health and maturity, it also indicates that the plants are preparing to put their energy into the production of offsets, and then the mature plant will die. When the parent plant has faded completely, these babies can be detached and rooted (if roots have not already formed) and they will grow up to be like the original plants and in turn flower and produce pups of their own.
Don't remove the pups until they are about 1/3 the size of the mother plants. I don't discard the mature plants until they are very dead because if you continue to water and feed them they can produce anywhere from one to many new offsets.
Tillandsias are often called "air plants" because of their ability to survive without soil, roots or water. They survive by clinging to rocks and trees where they rely upon rain water and dust to supply all the moisture and nutrient that they will ever receive. Sometimes they are grown in pots such as the one mentioned that you have .. I have found this particular Tillandsia does better in a pot than mounted.
Bromeliads take in moisture through their leaves so you should mist them with warm water a couple of times a week in spring and summer.
Let the soil dry out between waterings. If repotting they like a mix that is on the acid side. To a good well draining potting mix add some peat to make it more acidic.
Good luck. These are gorgeous plants. But be careful. You could get hooked!!
6.3.08

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Subject: Columnar cactus dying on top
Vera
My friend has a tall cactus it is one shaft growing up al least 8 feet. The top is turning brown and looks to be dying. The base and shaft are healthy. We are wondering if cutting off the top portion around 6" will help the plant. The cactus is about 8" around. Any suggestions?

Answer
Yes, that's the right thing to do. Once you cut off what you think is the bad part .. have a look at the inside tissue where you made the cut (on the original plant). If it is moist and healthy looking, kind of a creamy color, that's all you need to cut. If it is brown or has brown spots, then the problem has gone further down inside the plant. Cut again a couple of inches until you reach clear, healthy tissue.
I hope this cactus (if it is a cactus and not a Euphorbia) is not being grown in the house. Most columnar cacti need much more light than can be provided in a home environment.
6.3.08

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Subject: Crassulas not doing well.
Shauna J. - USA
I have a Crassullar hobbit and a crassular jade (money plant) bits seem to be dropping off both plants, what am I doing wrong? The crassular hobbit was perfectly fine until I moved house 3 years ago and it has been very unhappy ever since it seems to be dying. It sat on the windowsill on a hall. I now have it on my kitchen table, I moved it from the kitchen bench to the table as I thought it would get a bit more light. Admittedly the smaller branches aren't falling off as much. I also have a crassulla jade ( it's a money plant) and the bits are falling off this one too, I have moved this form the bathroom to the bedroom windowsill very recently to see if that cheers him up any. Perhaps my hobbit needs repotted do you think that would help? If so what type of compost should I use?

Answer
I'm afraid the photo you sent aborted. All I got was a gray line. If you'd like to try again, I'd love to see it.
Crassulas need a lot of sunshine to do well. I think that is your plants' main problem. Bathrooms are too humid for succulents as well.
To repot - wait until you see signs of improvement and then use any good houseplant potting soil and mix in enough coarse sand or grit to make the soil very well draining.
Move the plants to a sunny location. Water very sparingly for a while .. and let's hope they do better.
21.2.08

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Subject: Growing Cactus Indoors
Chris M. - USA
I don't have a greenhouse. I love cactus plants but was told I can't grow those in the house. Is that true? I have lots of bright windows.

Answer
If you have a window where the plants receive several hours of sun a day, you can grow, to name a few, Aporocactus, Notocactus, Echinopsis and small mammillarias. I say small only because space is always limited when growing in the home. In hot summer sun Echinopsis will need some shade. Some people grow them in full sun but others find the plants burn as mine do. Depends on how strong the sun is. Epiphyllums, Christmas and Easter cacti also do well at a very bright window keeping in mind they don't like full sun in hottest months of the year. They do enjoy the sun in fall and winter months when it is not as strong at the rest of the year. The same applies to rebutias which like very bright light but not hot sun. Rebutias are wonderful plants. They flower regularly in spring for several weeks at a time and the flowers are quiet large and very colorful.
There are cactus plants that will never do well in the house, too numerous to mention here. Cactus with very dense spines and dense wool should be avoided. They need lots of sunshine to penetrate those dense spines and cool covering the plant bodies. A good bet is to check out plants offered by reputable cactus and succulent nurseries (because they are usually named plants) .. and when you have an idea of what you'd like to grow, contact me and give me the names and I'll recommend which I think would do well in the home. Dealers offering named plants will often offer good advice too. Who better than they know more about the plants they sell?
17.2.08

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Subject: Euphorbias and parrots
Irene - USA
I have a Euphorbia of some kind and I have a parrot. Is it dangerous for parrots?

Answer
YES. The white sap inside can kill a bird. Parrots tend to chew things including stems and leaves of plants. Even if you have one that doesn't have this tendency you never know when he/she might have a hankering for something to chew on and decide the Euphorbia looks tasty.
13.2.08

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Subject: Crassula Fertilizer/Feed
Branden P.
I came across your site and publications recently and I am really impressed with the content. I have been successful in growing several crassula (hobbit(still can't believe it), Crosby's compact, ovata, and lactea from leaves. I recently read the article on the site about fertilizers/feed. It suggested a 20-20-20 when not in bloom and a 20-30-20 when in bloom to maintain the flowers. Now I'm pretty far away from flowers but I would love a suggestion on where I can find the fertilizer mentioned in the article. No brand name was given, so I'm at a loss here. Currently I have Schultz Cactus Plus with micro nutrients. It has not been used yet, that is why I'm asking. I've also recently educated myself on soils, so when it warms up here, they will all get re potted with fresh soil that I will be preparing. Thank you for the wonderful site and any information you can help me with.

Answer
So glad you enjoy our web site.
If you have Schultz Cactus Plus Liquid Plant Food with Micronutrients 2-7-7 the supplier says it is specially formulated for all cacti, jade, aloe, etc. It is a good product and you would use it at full strength as recommended on the label. If you use another brand where the formula is 20-20-20 then you should mix it at 1/4 strength recommended on the label to make sure the plants are not receiving too much nitrogen. Switching to 20-30-20 just before flowering time, again at 1/4 strength is a good idea to encourage flowering. Whatever brand you buy try to get a fertilizer that contains trace elements.
There are many brands of good fertilizers. Each one will tell you on the label whether it is 20-20-20 or 20-30-20, etc. and whether it has trace elements. It doesn't matter which brand you choose.
So in a nutshell you can use the Schultz that you have but mix it at full strength as instructed on the label.
With regard to new soil mix it should be very well draining. When you have finished mixing it .. take up a handful and squeeze it. If it falls apart .. it's perfect. If it doesn't fall apart, you need more sand or grit or whatever to make it drain better.
9.2.08

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Subject: Euphorbia leuconeura

Judy Z. - USA
Can you help identify this plant for me please?

Answer
Sure can. This is Euphorbia leuconeura. It comes from Madagascar.
2.2.08

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Subject: Orchid cactus not flowering

Maureen - USA
Hi Marina, I would love some advice from you concerning my cactus. I have a huge orchid cactus which purchased in late March approx. 4 years ago at a nursery in Connecticut. When I bought it the cactus was so beautiful, loaded with tons of flowers. The next spring I had two flowers, so I repotted it thinking maybe it needed a soil boost. It's ALWAYS looked really healthy, constantly growing. The following spring only one flower. We moved that May(2006) to Delaware to a house with a fantastic sun room and al ot of bright rooms without direct sun. Spring 2007 not one flower. PLEASE HELP me....I love this plant and can't figure out the problem.

Answer
I presume you have read the article on this site entitled Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus? No enough light -- Over feeding -- Soil too alkaline (should have an acid reaction) can be some of the causes of lack of or minimum flowering. If a plant is fed too much or too strong a fertilizer that could encourage green growth at the expense of flowers. Many plants don't appreciate being moved around too much. If a plant is used to growing in one location .. it often takes time to adjust to a new one.
23.1.08

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Subject: Echinopsis (Trichocereus) problems

Dawn - USA
hello there I have this cactus that someone had given me for a house warming gift when i live in Az. i brought the cactus home (back in Pa) and it has not done too well i have had it for4 years i think and although it has continued to grow in length it is very leggy i have just read about the southern exposure and will be moving it to a window facing south but what my question is; what is wrong with it? here you can see it has just bent over i believe because it has gotten too soft. The base is yellow and hard and does not look like the photos of scale that i have seen.
I think my only course of action is to cut the tip and regrow it... my friend died shortly from a random act of violence after giving this to me and i would like to save it i am pretty sure it is a san pedro cactus at least that the closest i can identify it. can i use the new roots to start it with or do i need to root it from the cut end. if you can help i would appreciate it very much .
Thank you very much

Answer
This is a very sick cactus. It may be San Pedro Cactus but I wouldn't want to commit to that since the plant is in very poor condition and may look different if it was in healthy condition. It is, however, an Echinopsis, previously known as Trichocereus. Information is more likely found on the net under Trichocereus. An Pedro Cactus is Trichocereus pachanoi or Echinopsis pachanoi.
This cactus never does well in the house. It needs lots of sunshine and does best in a greenhouse. This plant has grown long and skinny, the top searching for more light .. and in the process has become very weak which might be one reason why it is bending over like that. Over watering, soil that doesn't drain well also reasons for soft tissue and tendency to bend over.
The marks on the bottom of the plant are not scale. They are corking marks which come with age.
The rest of the marks also a type of corking .. one of the problems a cactus develops as a result of poor growing conditions. Usually there is some corking at the base but not all over the plant.
The "new roots" as you call them along the stem are NOT roots. I am not sure what they are because they are not big enough to see clearly. I do know they are not roots.
I would cut off the top of the plant that looks fairly normal, root it and begin again. You can also chop off the rest of the plant down to about four inches above soil level and with luck it may produce new branches.
Do this only in warm, summer weather when the season is good for most plants to put on new growth.
Send me a new pic when the growths are larger and I'll see if I can tell you what they are.
23.1.08

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Subject: Oreocereus ID please

Colin - Australia
This rather straggly cactus was abandoned by the previous owner of my house ( too prickly to pack I guess) and has just hung around getting taller and having two offspring at the base. Suddenly, two days ago it produced, virtually overnight, two green 'flowers' (?) which looked a bit like artichokes. One day later, before I got around to photographing them they turned black . Today one had fallen off and I photographed the other just in time before it too fell off. Lots of grey 'wool' amongst the spines at the top .
Could you please give me some information on it ?
Best regards from Queensland Australia where we are having 32°C days, 25°C nights and 70% humidity!

Answer
This is an Oreocereus from South America .. which has been seriously lacking sunshine for a very long time. The top of the plant is what the entire plant should look like. I am very surprised that the plant produced flowers. Perhaps it put on a show hoping it would excite the new owner into give it better growing conditions.
It needs a bigger pot. It should receive full sun all day long and be careful not to over water as it is prone to rot if roots are kept soaking wet for too long.

Colin
Thank you Marina - what a great name - sounds like "are you serious?" . I shall pot it up with caution and lots of newspaper padding ! Do you think the two young ones would do better if I terminated grandpa - who is looking a bit tatty with all that poor -growth section ? Sunshine I have lots of, and strangely the poor old thing has always been in it - at least for the last four years since I bought the house. Maybe the previous owner had it in the shade and just turfed it out into the sun when leaving. Would some half strength seaweed liquid fertilizer help it ? It gets no rain where it is but I give it water in a fair amount about once a fortnight and it does drain well.

Answer

You're welcome Colin. Yes it is a great name. I do think the two young ones would do better if terminated from the largest plant. It's interesting you say since you've had the plant it's always been in the sunshine .. which goes to show once it had sunshine it began to show it's normal growth form (on top of plant). I don't know what the make-up is of liquid seaweed fertilizer. Why not just use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength. I mix at half strength for all my tall columnar growing cacti. Water the plant when it needs watering - not on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule. Once you use a bigger pot it will take longer for the soil to dry out. Water it only when the soil is almot dry.
23.1.08

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Subject: Lithops
Jan - Australia
I don't know whether you can answer this question. But, here goes. Are Lithops available in Australia and will they grow in sub-tropical to tropical areas.
Thanks

Answer
I do know there are hobbyists who grow Lithops in very hot and humid climates. If you can give them sufficient light, good ventilation and resist the temptation to keep watering them there are few problems.
I have not heard of a commercial source in Australia. When I post this to our web site perhaps someone will come forward if they know of a source there. An alternative of course would be to grow the plants from seeds. You could also post a free ad on this web site asking other hobbyists in Australia if they have Lithops for sale.
23.1.08

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Subject: Cotyledon tomentosa (Bears's Paw)
Virginia M. - USA
I've been given a gift of a bearspaw a very lovely plant, but I'm loosing it. stems have become hard and brittle and the paws are falling off. No one I know has ever seen one of these plants. It came from california. If you could offer any information or help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou

Answer
Some plants have more than one common name so I have to guess this might be Cotyledon tomentosa. It sounds like something is wrong in the plant's growing conditions. Without knowing those conditions I can't say why the stems are brittle. However, when parts begin to fall off succulent plants, that is usually a sign of over-watering or compacted soil which won't allow the water to drain off and let the soil dry out between waterings. Enough light is important too. This plant needs sunshine to grow well. In hottest climates filtered sun is best.
13.1.08

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Subject: Aeoniums & X Pachyveria
Gail G - USA
I would appreciate your input on a couple of questions.
First, about when to re-pot aeoniums. Mine put on most of their growth in the winter, when they grow under fluorscent lights (they go outside in the summer but quickly go dormant in our heat). Since they do grow so well now, isn't this the best time to re-pot them? I keep reading to re-pot in spring but am wondering why wait when they grow in winter. One plant is really underpotted, its sending down adventitious roots and dries out real fast. Is there any reason I can't/shouldn't re-pot it now?

Answer
There are different views on when to repot and when not to repot. I personally don't believe it matters because having a very large collection I wouldn't have the time to repot everything at a specific time. I have to do a few at a time throughout the year. And I've never had any problems.
As a matter of interest my Aeonium did something unexpected last year. In a 10 inch pot with one large rosette, it was growing in my greenhouse for three years doing nothing much. I decided in spring to put it outside in the sunshine. My thought was that since it was a winter grower, it would have a nice rest out there through spring and summer and I would let nature water it. I paid no attention to it until fall when I remembered I should bring it in to the greenhouse before cold set in. To my amazement the plant now had 12 large rosettes. Back in the greenhouse I hoped it would flower but nothing has happened yet. I'm convinced direct sun had something to do with this unusual growth and the fact it grew in spring and summer proves some plants do change their habits.

Gail
Second question is about "beheading" Pachyveria glauca. I haven't found any references to doing this, but have one that's grown up along a stem and is so heavy it leans so I have to prop other pots next to it. It's got good tight growth all along the stem so kind of hate to do it, but really tired of this leaning tower of packyveria! Can I lop off the top rosette as is done with echeverias? If so, probably could get a couple more plants from the stem, or it might start new growth lower down. My other p. glaucas all stayed low rosettes; have you heard of these plants growing taller? Thanks for any advice!

Answer

X Pachyveria is a cross between Echeveria and Pachyphytum. Such crosses can only be propagated vegetatively. Yes, you can remove a rosette to pot up and root, same as you do echeverias. And yes, you should get more small plants growing on the remaining stem. I would be patient and do this in spring rather than now when the plant is not in full growth. As for the plant growing taller than usual, I'd have to see a photo of it cause I'm not sure what you mean. For one thing, if you had the plant under lights inside during the winter, the plant may have etiolated (stretched up) looking for more light. Plants needing very high light sometimes will do that.
13.1.08

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Subject: Greenhouse temperature in winter
Tatiania W - USA
I have a big collection with many cacti, many succulents and a few orchids and bromeliads. At what temperature should I keep the greenhouse in winter to be on the safe side for all the plants.

Answer
That's a tricky question. I will try to come up with a tricky answer.
With a large, varied collection it is not easy to keep all the plants happy at the same temperature because some will tolerate more cold than others. However, since I have the same type of large and varied collection, I can tell you I keep my greenhouse at a minimum of 55F and have had no casualties. I suspect 50F would be okay too but I hesitate to take that chance and lose some of my more tropical plants.
I keep my cacti very dry all winter. I keep the mix for the orchids moist (a little water every two weeks) because there is much higher humidity in the greenhouse in winter so they don't need a slurp of water too often. I do not keep water in the cups of bromeliads but I do make sure there is some moisture in the soil (not soaking all the time) and on days when the sun is shining and temperature warm in the morning, I mist them all with warmish water.
I have noticed many bromeliads grow and produce pups in winter months probably because the winter season here is the summer season in their habitat countries. I even have one flowering right now - Aechmea recurvata.
I do not feed any of my plants in winter months.
12.1.08

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Subject: Guzmania Torch
Marsha G. - Canada
Can you tell me how to grow a Guzmania please?

Answer
Sure can. This is a wonderful plant to grow in the home near a very bright window - but not in full sun. The following was published in our Digest Vol 18 Issue 4 March 2007
Guzmanias
From: The Amateurs' Digest, Vol 18 Issue 4 March 2007
Marina Welham
Guzmanias form a rosette of soft leaves which are usually glossy and either plain green or else marked with fine brown or red lengthwise-or rarely crosswise-lines. Some forms have decorative foliage. Others are prized chiefly for their flower heads which may be either on tall stalks or on stumpy ones in the center of the rosette.
The short lived flowers are normally white or yellow but the long lasting bracts as well as the rest of the flower head may be a brilliant red or orange. The flowering season is usually late winter. The bract on the plant in the photo has lasted for several months.

Care:

Light
Guzmanias like bright filtered light. They will not flower too far from a window. On the other hand if too close to a sunny window their leaves will burn.
Temperature
These beauties enjoy a temperature above 60F (15C) with high humidity.
Watering
Keep the potting mix moist. The rosette itself should be kept full of water except when in bloom. Do not put water with fertilizer in it into the rosette otherwise a damaging build-up of salts can result.
Potting mix
Bromeliads need a potting mix that is porous, spongy and almost lime free. A satisfactory mix consists of equal parts of coarse leaf mold and peat moss or equal parts of a lime-free soil based mix and peat moss.
Feeding
Feed with a standard liquid fertilizer every two weeks not only to the potting mix but also spray the foliage.
Potting and repotting
These plants have little root systems so 4 or 5 in. pots are all they need. If a plant needs more room move it into a pot one size larger in spring. Sometimes in a small pot the size of the foliage (sometimes 3 ft. across) topples the plant because of the weight. Insert the pot into a heavy clay pot which will take the weight without falling over.
Propagation
In spring cut offsets from the parent but not before they are 3 inches long. Insert each one into a 2 inch pot of bromeliad mix. Keep it in a bright place and water moderately. When the offset is well rooted move it into a pot one size larger and treat as a mature plant. Offsets can root fairly quickly, in two weeks to a month but in some cases it takes six months. Young offsets will root faster than more mature ones. If there are other questions, don't hesitate to ask.


Guzmania Torch
Plant and Photo: Marina Welham
31.12.07

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Subject: Mystery plant ID - we need everyone's help please

Gail G. - USA
Gail G., USA. Just received a bunch of the Digest back copies and LOVE them. Like talking with good friends about the most interesting plants. Keep up the great work.
Would appreciate your help in identifying this plant. I got it as part of a mixed garden, mostly cacti, about 18 months ago. It doesn't like full sun or even to be under the fluorescent lights (flushes red quickly) but also doesn't bloom. I've got it in commercial cactus soil, fertilize in summer, keep it in a window, and water when the soil is quite dry (same as for most of my succulents). Around the base of the plant, the leaves grow in 4 "stacks" like compass points, each new leaf resting on top of the lower one. I've accidentally cut off a leaf or two & inside is filled with a green, grainy, gel-like material. When I got it, the plant was just a rosette of these longish, tapering leaves but it grew the stem and the "top" quickly last summer. I thought it would bloom, but nothing more happened. I've found only 1 or 2 plants at all similar on the web and they lacked the wild top this plant has, so I'm thinking possibly these are hybrids of some sort (sedum & crassula is my best guess, emphasis on "guess"!) This one has even stumped the Oklahoma University Dept of Botany so would really appreciate your help.

Answer
I'm afraid you have me stumped too .. except that I would guess this is a species of Lampranthus. It would be much easier to ID when in flower.
I'd like to invite everyone viewing this photo to give their idea as to what the ID of this plant might be. Would you help please?? Thanks very much.
26.12.07

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Subject: Orchid Cactus
Kathie - USA
I have or had a beautiful orchid flower,it got huge,now its leaves are all turning red? it gets these huge red pods,can you start plants from these, now I have all 3 plants turning really red?? Thanks

Answer
Orchid cactus turn red if they are getting too much sun.
The red pods are seed pods. Once they mature you can remove seeds and grow new plants. I leave seed pods on the plants for several months before I remove them.

Kathie - USA
I moved them in the shade. great. Thanks a bunch.
19.12.07

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Subject: Astrophytum myriostigma
Jackie
My Bishop's Hat is looking deflated and wobbly. I have stopped watering it since it is the beginning of winter. Should I leave it alone or water it one more time?

Answer
I would not water this cactus while it is deflated and wobbly. I suspect it might have had too much water and/or not enough light.
Very slow growing plant absolutely needs a sunny greenhouse environment year round and extreme care not to over water the plant at any time. Over watering can lead to root rot. I suspect that is what's wrong with your plant.
You should unpot the plant and see if the roots have rotted off. If they have, clean off the rotting roots and put the plant in a bright, warm place for the rest of the winter. If the bottom of the cactus also shows signs of rot, slice it off to clear tissue.
If this is a root rot problem, chances you can save the plant are slim but it's always worth trying to save it.

Jackie
The Astrophytums had to be put to sleep last night. I brought the other cactus to work where I am next to a huge wall of windows.
Some of them I am worried about having in the very cold temperatures. My house stays pretty cold and outside at night it might be too cold for some of them. I really don't want to kill again. I have the following at work now:

Answer

My comments follow yours below .....
Uebelmannia pectinifera
Scientific Name: Uebelmannia pectinifera Buining
Keep above 40°F in winter, avoid any frost
Minimum Avg. Temperature: 60°F
. .....Safer at a minimum of 50°F - preferably a little higher. Full sun. Aver. temp in spring and summer should certainly be higher than 60F.

Argyroderma theartii
Family : Mesembryanthemaceae
Common names : baby-toes
......Winter grower needs warmth in winter months. Full sun.

Stapelia gigantea - Carrion Flower
......Filtered sun is best especially in high heat climates. Prone to rot if over watered. Needs some warmth in winter months.

Copiapoa tenuissima
Scientific Name: Copiapoa tenuissima F. Ritter
Frost Tolerance: Avoid any frost
Minimum Avg. Temperature: 50°F (10°C).
Sun Exposure: Light shade to full sun
......This particular species can take down to 40F if kept quite dry and in a cool location. I prefer to give the plant full sun.
Note: This species has a tap root (thick, long root). Make sure the pot is deep enough to accommodate that root.

Euphorbia obesa Hook. f.
best grown as a pot plant in a sunny position such as a window sill
......In hottest months the plant is safer in filtered sun so it doesn't burn. In winter full sun is appreciated.

Echinocereus.
Geus: Echinocereus
Species: pectinatus var. coahuila
Sun Exposure: Light Shade
......Don't agree with this. All the Echinocerei I know need full sun.

Lithops fulviceps v. lactinea
Scientific Name: Lithops fulviceps N.E.Brown
Frost Tolerance: Hardy to 25°F (this one can probably be okay outside but sheltered from rain?).
......If you shelter the plant from the rain that probably means it won't be getting full sun which Lithops need.
Lithops should be watered beginning in spring through to fall. They are growing through the winter too when we don't water them so if you are not used to growing these plants (or the others) I would not put them outside in winter.
6.12.07

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Subject: Sansevierias (species?)

Julie Sawyer - USA
I know this is Sansevierias, but what species is it? The flower with stem is 18-20 inches high or more, the leaves are about 3 inches wide and about 12-18 tall. I live in west central Florida.

Answer
I believe this is Sansevieria hyacinthoides.
I also asked another Sansevieria grower for his opinion. Bob Streul, USA had a look at the photos and says:
"I noticed in the photo several of the leaves were not upright which goes against the normal since S. hyacinthoides leaves are very stiff and normally stay in an upright position. However, that may change depending upon the environment the plant is grown in. You might wish to ask the person if the leaves are dull, somewhat rough and a nile-green color which is the leaf of S. hyacinthoides. Also, the edges of the leaves are reddish with a withered border that detaches into fibers. S. hyacinthoides does have a spike like raceme 25-27 inches tall."

Julie Sawyer - USA
The leaves do normally stand staight up, but with weather and my dog that runs though it, they tend to fall over. I'm sending better photos of the leaves. Yes they have a very fine red edge on them. Hope this can better identify them.

Answer

Thanks, Julie. Sansevieria hyacinthoides is therefore the correct ID.
1.12.07

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Subject: Sansevieria cylindrica
Lynne Des Rivieres - Canada
I am looking for advice on propagating Sanseviera cylindrica. I had a broken stem so used that in a sand/perlite mixture; this was seven months ago. Finally, one shoot has come up and was wondering if there was any special trick to growing these. I have grown cacti/succulent of every type including S. fasciata without any trouble, but this variety has got me stumped. They enjoy light through a curtain, so nothing direct and get water occasionally.
Any help is appreciated.

Answer
Sansevieria cylindrica (African Spear) is easy to grow but I did notice when I started a new plant from a cutting it took quite a long time to root and just as long for the new plant to show signs of growth. Once it got going, it grew quite fast.
Soil mix should be 2/3 good potting soil and 1/3 coarse sand or grit.
While S. cylindrica does not like direct sun, it nevertheless needs very strong light if grown in the house. The stronger the light the more upright the stems will grow.
Do not feed this plant during winter. Water infrequently during all short day months. In other months of the year water only when the soil in the pot has almost dried out.


Sansevieria cylindrica
1.12.07

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Subject: Cererea namaquensis
Bob Stone - USA
Can you tell me anything about Ceraria namaquensis?

Answer
Plants in the genus Ceraria may be found in older publications under the name Portulacaria.
Cerarias are from Africa.
Cereria namaquensis looks like a young heather when small but eventually grows into a shrub 5 ft. high. The horizontal branches carry widely spaced pairs of fleshy leaves, so tiny that at a quick glance the plant appears to be leafless.
Flowers are white or pink.
Care:
Grow in full sun.
Propagate from seed and cuttings.
Will tolerate a cold greenhouse in winter down to around 45F (8C).
15.11.07

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Subject: Caudiciform and Pachycaul
Anonymous
Can you tell me the difference between a Caudiciform plant and a Pachycaul plant?

Answer
A Caudiciform has a distinct caudex (fat bottom).
A Pachycaul has a thickened stem.
15.11.07

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Subject: Watering cacti in Winter
Ann Bedows - USA
Do I stop watering my cacti in winter and for how long

Answer
If they are in a cool greenhouse (minimum 45F) they should receive much less water in winter than they do in spring and summer.
There are many cacti that prefer to be kept totally dry in winter in a cool greenhouse. If you grow your plants in the house, indoor heating can cause the plants to dry out so much that a little water now and again is advisable. It is one thing to leave the plants dry and cool so they can have a dormant period (rest) and another to have them dry out so much that roots can be lost and the stems (bodies) of the plants suffer too.
If you could tell me which cacti you have I could give you a better answer.
13.11.07

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Subject: Cutting and moving Opuntia littoralis
Rich Almack - USA
I loved discovering your Amateur's Digest site a few weeks ago, and I must say, I truly enjoy my sense of your personality as I read through the advice you give to those who ask it.
Here's my query. I have two or three tall stands of Opuntia littoralis directly in front of my small home here in Woodland Hills, California. If I can figure out a way to manipulate a man-sized...6' in my case...cutting off the top of one of these, do you think it would be possible to relocate it in another location. It seems obvious that it would have to be propped up for quite a long time were it possible at all. Maybe a better question would be...what do you think is the largest sized cutting I could successfully propagate?
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Answer
Pat-pats are always appreciated. Thanks so much.
Sections of this cactus are very easy to root especially when they are in full growth so I suggest you wait until spring to do the deed. When you make the cut the wound(s) will need to heal over (callous) before you plant it in a new location. If you don't let it totally heal over, moisture will get into the plant and rot could well follow. Depending on how large the cut is and how warm it is, this could take up to several weeks. During this time the cutting should be in a warm, dry location.
I presume when you say "what do you think is the largest sized cutting I could successfully propagate?" you mean you want to move a portion of the plant including pads. There is no limit to the size you can cut off. However, if you are removing a large portion you should cut it off where what is on the bottom that will be transplanted, will be enough to support the upper portion when re-planted and roots take hold. In doing that you may have to plant two or three of the lower pads which support the ones on top.
Yes it will need support until it is rooted and until roots anchor themselves in the soil. Once roots form they grow pretty fast.
What you might do is fashion a light weight but strong wooden cross a little taller and wider than the portion of the plant you want to move. Tie it with strips of soft but strong fabric or garden tape to the portion to be cut off. That will give you something to hold on to that doesn't have spines and glochids. It will also be a partial support when you plant it in the new location. When you plant the bottom pad or pads (not too far down in the soil) you could then insert another wood support further down into the soil and against the first support which will hold the plant upright and in place.
Good luck and let me know how you make out.
26.10.07

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Subject: Guzmania (Bromeliad)
Joan Levell
My question is
How should I transplant a Guzmania "switch"?
I recieved the plant 3 months ago from a florist shop as a gift.
It is very tall now and does that mean it should be transplanted?
Thank you for any help you can give me.

Answer
This bromeliad does not need a bigger pot even though it is very tall when it is mature. If you find it top heavy try putting that pot into another larger one - even a heavy clay pot - to keep it steady. Bromeliads have a limited root system compared to most other plants which is why it is not necessary to keep increasing pot size .. unless you have some offsets in 4 inch pots which will require 5 or 6 inch pots by the time they mature.
Gift plants usually have a colorful bract which lasts for months if the plant receives enough bright light. Tiny flowers appear inside the leaves of the bract which will tell you the plant is soon going to produce offsets. These new plants appear at soil level. Let them grow until they are about one third the height of the mother plant then unpot the plant and loosen soil around the offsets so they can be pulled away from the soil long with their roots. These can be potted up to start new plants. You will only need four inch pots for the smaller ones. My plants produce anywhere from two to six or seven offsets.
Put the mother plant back into it's original pot, fertilize it and it may produce more offsets. Guzmanias are so prolific I sometimes think I should start a Guz Farm!
Once the Guzmania stops producing pups that will be the end of its life and it will deteriorate and can be thrown out.
From my own experience I find these plants do not like direct sun or high heat. They do, however, like very bright light and some filtered sunshine in order to produce their colorful bracts.
This bromeliad forms a rosette of broad leaves which creates a "cup" or "vase" in the center. Keep this filled with fresh water. Don't leave it in there for many weeks as it can become stagnant. Period flushing will also prevent build up of salts left then the water in the cup evaporates. When you water the potting mix, water thoroughly and remove any excess from the pot saucer. Do not water again until about half the mix has dried out.
Bromeliads absorb water and minerals through their leaves from the moisture in the air and through their cups. They are not as dependant, therefore, on their root system as are most other plants. It is important, however, to keep their root system alive and in good health.
Most bromeliads grow best in a very porous organic medium which permits quick water drainage and sufficient air circulation around the roots. There is no one potting mix which is better than any other, however, the following mixes are suggested:
1. One part peat, one part bark, one part coarse sand
2. One part peat, one part bark, one part perlite
3. One part peat, one-half part leaf mold, one part coarse sand.
Osmunda fiber, unshredded sphagnum moss or tree-fern fiber may substituted for peat moss in these mixes. Some bromeliads thrive best when grown in a medium composed only of osmunda fiber.
Actively growing bromeliads respond to light applications of fertilizer. During the winter months, or under conditions of low light, they require little or no fertilizer.
A general purpose, liquid houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) can be applied to the potting mix at 1/3 the recommended dosage month or so. Do not to add fertilizer in the cup because this could lead to an accumulation of fertilizer salts that may burn newly emerging leaves.
Once you have a Guzmania .. you will have a plant for life. Good luck and let me now if I left something out that you need to know.


Guzmania sp.
Plant & Photo: The Welhams
21.10.07

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Subject: Euphorbia tirucallii
Cynthia Edwards - USA
Hello, can you please tell me the best way to propagate a pencil cactus and what type of soil do I use. Do I use a rooting harmone?. Ihank you

Answer
Rooting cuttings of this plant is not easy and not always successful.
Wounds on cuttings should be well calloused (dried).
Use young cuttings as opposed to older growth.
Use a well draining soil mix of soil and coarse sand or perlite.
Rooting hormones are optional. Might help but might not. Keep the cuttings warm and in very bright light.
Good luck.
21.10.07

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Subject: Fasciation
Judy Zuber - USA
Hi Marina: hats off to you, another wonderful addition of The Amateur s Digest. I received it in the post on Friday and have had such a wonderful time reading and rereading all the great articles. All that information packed into one little booklet, which brings me to the article on Fasciation. (Special Edition 2008) I have never heard the term before, however upon reading the article, I immediately thought of one of my desert roses with possibly this problem.
When I was in Switzerland last spring I purchased a packet of Systemic Insecticide Tablets for Hydroculture plants and potted plants. All the information was in, German, Italian and French. Luckily for me along with the directions they had pictures and simple enough sentences that I could figure out what these tablets were for and how to use them.
When I arrived home I found that my adeniums had a severe infestation of aphids and so I chose one plant to be my guinea pig. I proceeded to insert two of these tablets into the pot and watered the soil thoroughly. Some months later I noticed my guinea had a problem, it looked like the main trunk of the plant was collapsing or dehydrating from the inside out. Today the trunk of the plant has a very interesting shape and pattern. All the new growth is healthy, normal and aphid free, however I would not recommend using this product on any member of the Adenium family or like plants.(product in question is Gesal Provado, Insektizid-Stabchen Batonnets Insecticides. Provado registered trademark of Bayer) .

Answer
Thank you for the pat, pat, greatly appreciated. It's wonderful to know you are enjoying our issues so much.
I don't think your Adenium is fasciated. Fasciation is caused by abnormal divisions of the growing point.
Sometimes these things happen and we have no idea why they did that. As you say, not a good idea to use it again unless you know for sure it will not do any damage.
Was this plant in a greenhouse? I ask because anyone who has plants in a greenhouse will find that any plants outside that attract aphids almost guarantee the pests will end up in the greenhouse. I had a serious infestation once and discovered plants near the greenhouse had the same infestation and once I got rid of them I never had another aphid.
21.10.07

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Subject: Epi hybrid
Nancy Woitaszewski - USA
Hello Marina My daughter gave me a very large epi for Mother s Day this year. It is probably several years old. It is in a 12 in , peat-lined basket/pot, with the plant being about 24 inches across with some stems as long as 3 or more feet hanging down. It had a lot of blooms in May/June and even July. We noticed it even has one now. We have had it outside, under a lattice shelter, but still it got a lot of sun. The stems/leaves have reddened somewhat, but otherwise at the moment it looks okay. I think I kept it watered okay, but it may have gotten too dry at times. I tried to fertilize regularly.
My question is what do I do with it in the winter? We live in Southern Minnesota, and I will have to bring it into the house. I do not have much room to put such a large plant - the only place I have that would work is a small room in the basement with no windows. What is the minimum/maximum temperature it should be kept at? Can it be kept in just artificial light? What about watering during the winter? What is the lowest outside temperature will it tolerate?
I also have some pots with cuttings from this plant started. They look really nice and green, and have gotten some new shoots some even had a few flowers this summer. What do I do with them in the winter? I do have more options as far as placing them in the house.
These are my first epi plants, and I have a lot of questions about the care and maintenance in this Minnesota climate. I feel like we just lucked out as far as this year, and I want to make sure I am doing the right thing as time goes on.
Thanks for your help.

Answer
When the leaves turn red the plant is telling you it is getting too much sun. I suspect the lattice helped provide a little shade to avoid a bigger problem. It might be a good idea to put a little shade cloth over the lattice to reduce the sun further.
The smaller plants need the same growing conditions in winter as do mature plants.
You can have some pretty cold temperatures there in winter so I would definitely not leave the plant outside over late fall and winter months.
You will find all the answers to all your questions in my article on this page. Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
14.10.07

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Subject: Sanseviera trifasciata 'Hahnii'

Susie Schrimsher
My sister gave me a cutting and it grows really fast but she did not know the name of it nor did the person she got it from. I was wondering if you might know the name of the plant. I have seached your web site as well as others and the closest that I can come to a name for it is Sansevieria Trifasciata ... could you help me out... thanks a million Susie in Opp Al. I am putting these in the local fair and must have a name for it.. I have had them for about 6 or 7 months.

Answer
This is Sanseviera trifasciata 'Hahnii' - Common name: Bird's-nest Sanseviera
6.10.07

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Subject: Disocactus phyllanthoides

Lois - Canada
Hi, I have been enjoying your information on cactus as I have had this wonderful thing happen to me. This is my cactus that hung on the deck all summer, brought it in a month ago as the nights were getting cooler. Then I notice these buds and am SO excited. 26 of them. They are so close some can hardly open. I have had every one of my friends over to see it as it is a rare thing here.Hoping you can use these pictures and would love to hear from you . I had bought this plant at a flea market about 7 years ago.it was only 2 little stems on it . Then 2 years ago it had 2 blooms. I was excited then too.
Would like to hear where you are from.

Answer
I don't blame you for being excited. This is a gorgeous plant and I thank you for sharing it with us. I will certainly feature it on our web site.
I am in Sidney, British Columbia. Very nice to hear from another Canadian plant lover.
2.10.07

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Subject: Another baby for naming (Rebutia marsoneri)

Colin Burt, Australia
I'm going to have an uninformed guess at this one. Is it another Mammillaria ? Similar general form to the M.Sheldonii you were kind enough to identify earlier, but yellow flower. The label on it when bought was most instructive - "Cactus" .
On the subject of adequate watering of potted cacti , am I in order to immerse the pot in a bucket with water as deep as the soil surface , leave till water is visible on the soil surface and bubbling ceases, then drain completely? ( Loose fast draining mix in use).

Answer
No. Not a Mammillaria. This is a Rebutia - Rebutia marsoneri.
Yes. You can water the plants by immersing them. Just be careful to let the soil almost dry out before thoroughly watering again. The drawback to this method, especially in the case of small pots, is that you can encourage faster leaching out of beneficial soil minerals, etc.
25.9.07

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Subject: Sempervivum arachnoideum ID

Colin Burt, Australia
Here's that pest again from Australia with his latest purchase from the flea market. The lady who propagates them has a huge selection of little fellers like this - so no relief in site! Unlike me, she does not care what they are called. Maybe that's the way to fly, but it isn't me !
Steaming into summer here now with daytime temps in the upper twenties Celsius and nights down to 11 or so. Had to rescue the little cacti from a storm last week - an inch of rain in about twenty minutes. None of your gentle soaking showers here - its all or nothing.

Answer
This photo is not crisp but from what I can see it is a form of Sempervivum arachnoideum.
Plant names may not be important to some people such as the lady who sells them to you .. but when you need to know what growing conditions will keep the plants alive and healthy .. the names become so important.
I still can't get used to the idea Australia is going into summer while we are beginning our fall season. Here's hoping your plants do well this growing season. Ours will be sleeping for a while.
25.9.07

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Subject: What to do with scars
Emily Grinnell - USA
I am heart-broken-- a recent late summer hail storm scarred some of my cacti and succulents. The scars are about a millimeter across. Do you know if there is anything I can do to heal the scars?
The weather has stayed fairly damp and cool since this happened--4 days ago.
I thought of treating the scars with aloe vera juice, but haven't done anything yet. I also thought of Vitamin E dabbed on individual scars but don't know if oil would be bad for the cacti. Or is there any chance they will heal on their own? I'd so appreciate any help you can give!

Answer
Sorry to hear you've had a bit of a disaster. Do not apply anything to the 'scars'. They will heal on their own in time. Marks on plants do not respond to treatments one might use for humans.
9.9.07

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Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum - ID requested

Bill - UK
I have a plant that I have been trying to find out what it is.
The flowers are very similar to the ones of Orchid Cactus and are night flowering.
The plants (I have two) are very high in height about 4 to 5 foot and have wide flat leaves with no spines.
It has one to 2 white / slight yellow outer flowers at a time with hang down about 6 to 8 inches and have one spectacular flower about 5 to 6 inches wide when open.
Is this a form of Orchid Cactus and what type.
It lives in standard compost without leaf mould or sand and growing cuttings from the leaves is quite easy.
Can you ID this plant please?

Answer
Yes. It is Epiphyllum oxypetalum
24.9.07

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Subject: Plant Help (Adenium)

Tammy Schiel - Qatar
If anyone could please assist me with my adenium plants!! This is my first time that I have purchased them and just don't have a clue. I live in Qatar and from about May to September it is hot and humid, very! The winter is simply nice and cool. Do they require full sun and what type of soil? I've read that they require little water and that a person should trip the roots? I have one that is quite tall and just drooping everywhere. They also have not bloomed for many months. If anyone could give me some guidance and where to begin, that would be great as I think they are wonderful plants. Best Regards.

Answer
When weather is very hot and very humid .. plants can literally cook unless you do something to increase the air circulation. The answer is to have a fan. Not directly on the plant but near the area where you grow it.
Adeniums enjoy full sun but not if the sun is scorching hot. If that's the case the plant needs some shading from direct sun. It still needs very bright light though so don't hide it under a bench somewhere.
Use any good houseplant soil with the addition of coarse sand or grit (or aquarium gravel) to give the soil good drainage. Some houseplant soils have a very high percentage of peat. Don't use that type.
Watering should be thorough until the water runs out the bottom of the pot. Then wait until the soil is almost dried out before thoroughly watering again. If the plant stops actively growing, water much less and less often.
I don't know what you mean by "trip the roots". Some people grow the caudex below the soil line which some say makes the caudex grow bigger faster .. and once it is the size you want you raise the caudex above the soil and snip off any roots higher up on the caudex since the roots which will then be underneath in the soil are sufficient to sustain the plant. That is simply a matter of making the caudex look better. You do not have to raise the caudex though. Since you are new to growing this plant I'd leave it alone and in time it will grow bigger anyway.
Feed when the plant is in full growth with a balanced houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) at about half strength about once a month.
24.9.07

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Subject: Amorphophallus
Bill Sterling - USA
I'm trying to find the name of a plant that sounds like a-morf-something-or-other. Would you have any idea what that is?

Answer
I wonder if that would be Amorphophallus
9.9.07

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Subject: Epi cuttings

Raj Rajagopalan, India
I bought abot 10 cuttings during my visit to US in June.I live in Chennai India. I am attaching pictures of my plants.I would appreciate your expert comments on the state of my Epi's. I planted them on June 25 and these are about 2 months old. Are they growing?How long will it take to flower. Thanks
PS: 5 out of 10 have spikes. The other 5 are dormant.When will they root? Should I try a rooting spray like B-1 or K-L-N?

Answer
Most of your cuttings look very healthy. Only one I'd be concerned about is "Bob Grimshaw". The brown patches on both sides of the stem are dead tissue. You can either leave that alone and see if the middle part of the leaf continues healthy and may produce offshoots .. or you can cut off the top with that dead tissue - as I have shown in your photo.
How do you know that five have not rooted? Did you check to see if roots have formed? A slight tug at the plant will tell you if they are firmly rooted in the pots. You can always use rooting spray but it is not necessary. Once you have them planted, especially since they have been planted since June, they are better not disturbed so long as they look healthy.
The spikes (offshoot stems) are a clear indication those cuttings are growing. That does not mean the others without spikes are not growing.
Depending on how much the plants grow, and their growing conditions, you might have a flower or two in a year, more likely after two years.
I believe you have scorching hot temperatures in Chennai, India during many months of the year. Keep in mind these plants should not be grown in direct sun and they do not appreciate scorching hot temperatures. A misting with cool (but not cold) water weekly should help.
7.9.07

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Subject: Pedilanthus tithymaloides

Judy Zuber - USA
Can you tell me the species of this Pedilanthus please?

Answer
This is Pedilanthus tithymaloides
24.8.07

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Subject: Agave attenuata leaf problem

Tina - Western Australia
I have searched everywhere for an answer to my problem.
What is wrong with my agave attenuata?
It is growing beautifully and producing many new shoots around the base. The problem is that all the leaves on the bottom 1-2 layers of foliage are browing at the ends, curling and well, looking rather dead and unhealthy (see picture).
The plant is situated in full sun (which I have read is fine). I can only think it must be either too hot, too watered, too salty. Not sure.
Your help and advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank You

Answer
I have bad news and good news.
First the bad news. There is a chance this can be caused by something wrong at the roots of the plant probably roots rotting from over watering. Only you can know if you have a heavy hand when watering or if the soil is not well draining enough. The plant should be allowed to almost dry out between waterings. Purchase of an inexpensive water meter can be particularly helpful especially when testing moisture in soil in big/deep pots.
The good news is this may be nothing to worry about because drying up of lower leaves can be normal.
I have many species of Agave and without exception, as they grow bigger, the lower leaves eventually turn blackish, dry up and I have to remove them, cutting them off close to the stem. Mine too produce pups at the same time.
I tend to think you have nothing to worry about because the damage seems to be limited to the bottom leaves. If all leaves were turning black and/or the damage was soft rather than dry .. that would be a whole other problem.
19.8.07

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Subject: Hatiora gaertneri

Dudley
I purchased the plant in the picture a few years ago and was told itr was a christmas cactus, but it is not like any other I have seen. Can you tell me what it is?

Answer
It is an Easter Cactus. Botanical name is Hatiora gaertneri
16.8.07

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Subject: Orchid cactus damage (Epiphyllum)

Judi
Searching for help with orchid cactus & you came up on the web. What is wrong with mine ? they are a terrible mess. Thanks for any assistance.

Answer
Looks to me like scale insect damage. This can be controlled by spraying with one of the insecticidal soaps that are on the market. You can also control these pests by spraying them with a solution of 1/2 rubbing alcohol and 1/2 water. You won't get rid of those marks on the existing leaves though and there are too many to nick off by hand.
Can't tell if your plant is outdoors or if you just put the plant there to take the picture. I used to have this problem and other nasty markings on my epis when I grew them out of doors. Since I put them in a cool, shady spot inside my greenhouse, I've never had pest problems again and not a mark on any of the leaves.
14.8.07

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Subject: Cactus ID please

Colin Burt - Australia
Hello again from Australia. Another for you to identify, if you would be so kind. Purchased yesterday from a flea market stall where the owner could not tell me what it is. When it gets a bit bigger and settles in would those many offsets be a source for propagation? Thank you for your help. Hope all is well as we pass into Spring and Autumn respectively.

Answer
Shopping the flea markets again are you? Lucky you. We don't have them in our neck of the woods.
This is a Mammillaria. I cannot tell you the species until I see the flowers. When your plant flowers send me a photo and I'll try to hone in on the species name for you.
Yes those offsets would make individual plants. You can remove them at any time.
All is well thanks. Glad to hear from you again.

Colin Burt
Thanks Marina - there are tiny red 'buds' (?) on three of the lobes right now, will photograph if/when they open up more.

Answer
Those are not flower buds. They are red seed berries which form after the plant has flowered.
14.8.07

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Subject: Lewisias
Frederick Winyard - USA
I'm looking for information on a succulent that grows in Washington and Oregon, known as Lewithea or Lewithia; I'm not sure of the spelling, but it refers to Lewis and Clark. A Google search produced nothing. I'd like to know general information on the plant, as well as how to care for it and where to get hold of such a plant. Thanks.

Answer
I think you are looking for Lewisias .. rosette type outdoor plants (you can grow them in pots too) which need a very well draining growing location because they don't like wet feet. Also give them a place in full sun. These plants are often found for sale in general nurseries where they sell a great variety of other outdoor garden plants. They bloom in spring and that's when you will notice them the most. There may be mail order nurseries selling these plants. A search on Google is all I can suggest since I'm not familiar with mail order sources for them.
2.8.07

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Subject: Agave attenuata - moving a plant
Matt Rodgers - USA
I have a question regarding a agave attenuata I would like to transplant. It is a large plant and the stem is about 3 feet long and about 6 to 8 inches in diameter. I would like to move it another part of my yard since it has grown so large. So my questions are: Do I need to dig up the base of the plant or should I just cut off 2 or so feet of the stem? Can I bury 1-2 feet of the stem when I move it so it will stand upright or should I keep it in its current position which has the stem growing horizontal to the ground? Thank you.

Answer
Good question. It is always less risky when transplanting a plant to get at least some of the root. However, the easiest thing to do is to cut off the plant with as you say a couple of feet of stem. Leave as much stem as possible and leave the plant out of the soil for a week or more so the wound can heal over. Otherwise moisture can seep in and rot might begin. After transplanting I'd wait another month or so before watering it. A little rain wouldn't hurt if it happens but no deep watering.
You can either plant it upright or horizontal to the ground but I think you will find it's a lot easier to plant it upright and then the natural habit of the plant to lean over will happen again after the stem roots and grows longer. If you plant it horizontal to the ground I think you will run into problems with the weight of the plant pulling the stem out of the ground .. unless you prop the head up a little off the ground to take the full weight off the stem.
Good luck with the transplant.

Matt Rodgers
Marina, thanks for the advice. I went ahead and pulled it out of the ground. As you can see by the picture the break is rough. Should I saw this off for a clean cut or just let it sit like this until next week and then plant? I also noticed a few small holes in the trunk about 4 to 5 inches from the bottom is this a sign of trouble

Answer
I kinda thought you'd use a shovel. But never mind. Yes do saw off the end so you have a clean cut. Leave it in the air for a week or so until it has a chance to heal. Don't water it after planting!!
I have shown on the photo where I would cut it if you want to plant it upright. If you want to leave it in a leaning position then just even off the end of the stem. Can't imagine leaving it leaning would be the best idea though. Obviously when it leans like that the roots are strong enough to still support the plant from falling totally on the ground. It will be some time before it has a root system like that again.
I can't tell you what caused the holes but I would assume critters of some sort have done that. They pose no problem if there doesn't seem to be any sign of soft rot.
31.7.07

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Subject: Euphorbia tirucallii poisoning in animals
Bobby Crooks
I have listed all the technical information I know for the Firestick cactus. I have read as much as I can about the burning and skin irritations it can cause in humans. But my question is about animals and the cactus.
Our cat would drink from the plate that we put on the bottoms of our plants. For some strange reason the darn cat loves dirty water. Our Firestick cactus sits out side in the sun for the full growing effects. When we watered the cactus the cat began drinking from the plate where the excess water drained into. About 24 hours after she drank the water she became extremely sick. We took her to the vet and within a week she died.
The vet could not determine what killed her only that she died from poisoning. Could the Firestick have killed her

Answer
I am so sorry you lost your cat.
It certainly is possible the cat somehow ingested poison from the plant through the water. It doesn't take more than a pinprick of the skin of the plant to produce the poisonous latex. Animals should never be allowed anywhere near euphorbias.
It is also never a good idea to let animals drink dirty water or water running out of plant pots. There can be all sorts of problems in that water such as fertilizer run-off, pesticide run-off, salts run-off, etc.
This is not a cactus, by the way. It is one of the 'other' succulents.
To discourage cats from digging in pots .. a layer of coarse gravel on top of the soil is helpful. Cats are very smart. They don't like the sharp edges on the gravel.
20.7.07

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Subject: Common Names
Eli Wallace - USA
I am very interested in cactus and succulents but the plant names are too difficult. I will never be able to learn them. Why are not common names used instead?

Answer
I know how you feel. You are not alone in finding plant names difficult. If you enjoy growing the plants and are happy with common names, there is nothing wrong with that. However, you might run into problems at some point if you want to order more plants or talk about specific plant with others. If you use common names you will find there are many plants with the same common name and some plants that have several common names. You could be ordering the same plants you have or be talking about entirely different plants when discussing them with other hobbyists.
When you have the common name for a plant, see if you can find out what the botanical name is. You can often Google the common name to find the botanical name and you can then Google images of that plant and see if your plant matches photos that come up on that search. Those photos are not always correctly identified but they are often helpful just the same.
The more often you see a plant name or read about it, the sooner it will become familiar to you. Just don't worry about trying to remember each and every name. It is just handy to have the correct name on the label just in case you need more information or want to order a plant of a different species or just want to ask questions about it. After a while when you have seen the names a few times and written them on your labels .. before you know it you will be thinking in terms of botanical names more than the common ones.
19.7.07

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Subject: Diplodemia and Vincas (not succulents)
Brooke Hailey
I know cactus plants are your specialty, but do you happen to know if the plants diplodemia and vincas prefer sun or shade? Thank you for your help.

Answer
Diplademia
When searching for info on this plant .. try this spelling - Diplademia - rather than Diplodemia. Info may also be found under Mandevilla .. an earlier name for this plant.
Full sun to partial shade.
Parts of this plant are poisonous if ingested
Diplademia is attractive to bees, butterflies and birds
Needs consistently moist soil. Do not let dry out between waterings. Mulch to contain moisture in the soil.
Propagation by dividing the rootball .. or from softwood cuttings .. or by layering
Vinca .. common periwinkle. Sometimes spelled Vincas
This plant can be weedy or invasive. Root and stem rot are common problems. Also Alternaria leaf spot caused by too much heat plus humidity.
Full sun to partial shade.
Hope this helps.
15.7.07

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Subject: Sansevieria trifasciata cv.'Hahnii'

Fay Marshall
I am told this is a saneaviera plant, but I cant find any info on it. What exactly is this? thank you in advance.

Answer
I believe this plant is Sansevieria trifasciata cv.'Hahnii'
It is a succulent plant that needs watering only when the soil has gone almost dry. Don't grow it in full sunshine. Filtered sun is best. It even does well without sun at a bright window. While it will tolerate shade it will now flower unless it has enough light.
3.7.07

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Subject: Predicting Epiphyllum Night Bloom
Frederick Gandolfi - Canada
I have managed to grow a wonderful Epi plant at work, the night flowering kind (white blooms). It is in my office, staring out with 4 flower buds, long, fat, and wonderful. Just one problem: how can I predict when they will bloom?
I can't stay at work past midnight for the next however many nights, in the off chance I may catch the blooms. One night, maybe two, with a digital camera, sure. More than that, is not possible. Is there a way to predict, based on the flower growth, when it will bloom?
The stems leading to the unopened flower bud are 6-7" in length. The bud casings themselves are another 2". And they are growing extremely fast.
Any hints or tips, would be appreciated. Thanks!

Answer
I don't think anyone can give a precise prediction about when the flower buds will open. Once they are that size the flowers usually open within a day or two. Usually they open at dusk and are still open the next day until around noon. You should be able to enjoy them next morning if you miss them at night.
Why not take that plant home to enjoy the evening flowers and have another plant at work which produces flowers during the day? The day time flowering plants are Epi hybrids which have some pretty wonderful colorful flowers.

Frederick Gandolfi
Your suggestion is wonderful. However I was told that there was no way I was going to ever make the plant bloom, so where the plant grew, wasn't a consideration :-) Evidently I have meaningful choices ahead :-)

Answer

When plants don't flower it is because something is missing in their growing conditions that they must have. You will find all the answers on how to grow them in the article here:
Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
3.7.07

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Subject: Beaver Tail Cactus Help
Doreen Dobzynski - USA
I m so upset, and I hope you can help me. I ve been growing my beaver tail cactus for the past eight years. Every spring I put it outside. This year I decided to put the plant on the side of my steps for better sun. Unfortunately we have had a lot of rain. When I went to look at it today, the root was hollowed out like it had been washed away. It is still strong and I don t know what s holding it up. I scoped out 1/3 of the top soil that was pretty wet and replaced with drier sand. I don t know if this will be enough. Should I cut it down let it callus and start all over again? I hate to see it just die. With the summer heat I m thinking it will survive? The plant is about 3 feet tall. Thanks so much for your help.

Answer
Once root rot sets in it can run into the stem of the plant as well. Replacing the top 1/3 of the soil will probably not help. If this were my plant, to be on the safe side, I would remove the roots along with the pad nearest the soil .. and as you say, let any wound callus over and start all over again. Once you pot up the plant again, don't water it for a couple of weeks and then put some water in the pot saucer where it will be soaked up into the soil. Don't overdo the water since you want to to keep wet away from the surface of the soil. New roots will form and go down into the soil looking for moisture.
That way you are sure of saving most of the plant rather than taking a chance on having the rot spread
3.7.07

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Subject: Guzmanias (Bromeliads)

Jan Smithers - Canada
I recently bought a bromeliad. It has long green leaves and a tall red flower. Any chance you know what it is and how I should look after it?

Answer
I am fairly confident your plant is a Guzmania. Guzmanias appear in Canadian stores and nurseries in spring every year and are the ideal house plants because they don't like hot direct sun and enjoy a cool location rather than a place with high heat such as a greenhouse. If kept in a greenhouse a fan should provide maximum air circulation. In the home they should be grown at a very bright window. If it is a south window some shade from direct sun should be provided. Direct hot sun can very quickly burn the leaves.
The 'red flower' is actually called a 'bract'. There are flowers too but they are very small and almost hidden in the 'leaves' of the bracts.
Plants are usually purchased in 6 inch pots and are planted in a peaty mix to provide the acid reaction these plants need. It won't be necessary to re-pot the plant since even large guzmanias are happy in maximum 6 inch pot size.
The colorful bract lasts a long time especially if flowering (in the bract) has not yet started.
Once flowering is over the plant produces one or more (usually more) pups. These can be removed when they are about one third the size of the Mother plant. They may or may not have roots by then. These pups are potted up in 4 inch pots, later transferred to 6 inch pots as they increase in size. They are fairly fast growing. If there are no roots just insert the pup about an inch into the soil and insert something to keep it upright. I use wooden chopsticks which are quite inexpensive at dollar stores here. Soil should be very peaty and very well draining.
You can also leave the pups on and eventually cut out the Mother plant which will slowly die off .. but if there are several pups you will end up with a very large, unwieldly group of plants in one pot.
This bromeliad should never be allowed to totally dry out. Soil should be thoroughly watered every time it has about half dried out. Water should also be kept in the center of the plant .. which provides the humidity bromeliads need. It is important also, especially in spring and summer to mist the leaves with warm water about once a week - twice a month in fall and winter. If you have hard water then rain water or bottled water should be used.
About once a month a little fertilizer should be added to the water including the water used to mist the leaves. I use any good houseplant fertilizer and mix it with water at about a quarter of the strength recommended on the label for other plants. There are specialized fertilizers for bromeliads but I have never seen any offered here in British Columbia where I live. You could check with your local garden center which may have something specific available for feeding bromeliads.
I enjoy guzmanias because unlike some bromeliads which may not flower too readily, for me at least they produce those colorful bracts faithfully every year once the pups have reached maturity. Bracts on my plants are gold (as you can see in the photo), bright red, burgundy, purple, multi-color, etc.
21.6.07

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Subject: Corking in euphorbias

Christine Clay - USA
Attached is a photo of our cactus. It has a brown disease on it. Can you tell us how to rid the cactus of this disease or what may be causing the problem.

Answer
This is not a cactus. It is a Euphorbia. This is not a disease. It is a natural corking or thickening of the tissues. This often happens on older plants which yours is. It is not attractive so you can remove that stem if you like. If you remove only the corked part of it additional shoots will probably grow from what's left of that stem. I think I'd remove the entire corked stem. Be careful.
There is a white latex in euphorbias which can be dangerous. You will want to read the article on Dangers of Euphorbias on this web site.
21.6.07

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Subject: Adenium obesum leaf drop
Thuan Au - USA
My name is Thuan Au, and I live in Zone 5 in Colorado. I have two desert rose. I have them in a bright West window. I recently took them outside for full sun. Because of wind and hail, I took them back inside. Within a couple of days, the leaves turn yellow and drop. Before, it was full of green leaves.
Also, it bloomed the last two years, then stopped. I used Osmocote slow release fertilizer and I recently repotted them in clay pots with Catus soil mix. I water thouroughly and let it dry out before I water again. They're currenty inside. I'm concern about the leave drop; will it come back? Plus, why did it suddendly stop blooming? Can I put them back outside or should I continue to keep them indoor?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks,

Answer
When any plant is accustomed to being in one location and it is moved to another place where growing conditions are very different, chances are the plant will suffer some shock. The most frequent reaction is for the plant's leaves to turn yellow and drop off.
The worst thing you can do is take a plant from inside the house and put it in full sun. Moving a plant outdoors into sun should be done over a period of several weeks, moving the plant gradually into stronger light and finally sunshine. Once a plant is happy in its location it is always better to leave it where it is .. unless, with time, problems like yours occur indicating the plant is not happy.
If growing conditions are not ideal for your Adenium it can stop flowering. Not enough sunshine provided at a West window would be the first thing to consider. Adeniums do best in full sun and warm temperatures.
Cactus soil mix is for cactus .. not adeniums. Adeniums need a richer soil mix that has some peat moss added (for acidity) and if possible some organic material such as compost. Course sand should be added to ensure excellent drainage. There are many brands of ready made potting soil on the market that you can buy with these ingredients already mixed for your convenience.
When this plant is healthy it needs to be thoroughly watered and then allowed to ALMOST dry out before watering thoroughly again. It should never be allowed to go totally dry. This in itself can result in leaf drop.
The plant can also drop leaves if it wants to go dormant and have a rest. When that happens watering should be considerably reduced. I don't think, however, that dormancy is the reason for your plant's leaf drop.
Another reason for leaf drop can be shock from the plant being subjected to cold temperatures. That wind and hail you talk about could have contributed to the plant's unhappiness. Over watering can also cause leaf drop.
Osmocote (time release fertilizer) is a good product but I prefer to fertilizer once a month in spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) at half strength recommended on the fertilizer instructions. If the plant goes dormant (usually during winter months) it should not be fed at all and adding Osmocote to the soil means it will be fed whether it needs it or not. Right now, for example, since the plant is showing signs of stress by leaf drop it should not be fertilized at all until some improvement is noticed.
Clay pots are fine but having used both over the years, I prefer plastic pots. In porous clay pots the soil dries out much too fast for my liking.
The plant will produce new leaves if given the right conditions. The most important of those is enough light. I suggest you move the plant to a position in the home where it will have more sunshine than it presently receives at a West window. After that I'd change the soil mix to a richer one, as described above .. and do not fertilize until you see signs of new growth. Until you see improvement, hold back on watering too, giving only enough to keep the roots from totally drying out. That can be done by watering into the pot saucer and not into the pot from above.
12.6.07

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Subject: How to hybridise Epis
Terry
How are Epis Hybidised??? Is there a book on it available??? Can you give me some insight???

Answer
This is a specialized subject best addressed by people who specialize in these plants. I suggest you contact the San Diego Epiphyllum Society through their web site at: www.epiphyllum.com/
I know of a couple of books but not having read them, cannot be sure they contain precisely the type of information you want .. although descriptions of the books say they deal with Epi hybridizing. People at the Society mentioned above should know more about them than I do.
1. Plant breeding for gardeners; a guide to practical hybridizing by F. R McQuown Publisher: Collinridge / 1963 / Unknown Binding / 144 Pages
2..Fine-Flowered Cacti: Epiphyllums and Others for Home and Greenhouse (older book date and description unknown) by F. R. McQuown
While these books may be out of print used copies can often be found on book dealer web sites.
7.6.07

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Subject: Small flowering cacti
Jan Turner - Australia
I would like to grow flowering cacti but have limited space. Can you tell me a couple of plants I could grow that would not be difficult to obtain?

Answer
Rebutia and Gymnocalycium species are very popular. Most take up minimum space.
Rebutias are the first to flower for me in spring and continue flowering for many weeks.
Gymnocalyciums flower in spring as well, some species earlier than others. There are a few that grow rather large but most are of manageable size for limited space.
Flower color varies according to species. They can be white, red, yellow, orange, scarlet, etc.
Both genera do best in high light but not direct sunshine.
A cool winter rest with little if any water is recommended for both.
5.6.07

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Subject: Flowering Echinopsis