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Photo: Euphorbia milii (Thai hybrid with larger than normal flowers)
Credit: Marina & Roy Welham
AnswerSubject:No leaves on my Pachypodium lamerei
All parts of the plant are poisonous to both people and animals. Contact with the white, milky sap may cause severe blistering as well as intense pain to open cuts or eyes. Honey made from the flowers of these plants may be toxic. Some believe E. milii is less toxic than other euphorbias but the fact is different people may have varying reactions to the poison.
Always wear gloves when handling the plant if re-potting, etc. and be careful not to get the latex in your eyes. Keep children and pets well away from the plant.
13.6.13
Winfried D. - France
AnswerSubject:Sick Epiphyllum
This plant needs maximum sunshine year round. If you have had a spring with less than usual sun that could be the reason for the delay in leafing out. If it seems healthy and there is no rot, it may just be late wanting to grow this year. At the first sign of leaves development begin watering "thoroughly" and then let almost dry out before "thoroughly" watering again.
Please examine the top of the plant with a magnifying glass. This Pachypodium is prone to spider mite attack. It is difficult to see them unless you have the plant in sunshine while looking at it. Any sign of webs or blackish bits is a warning they may be present. Only a miticide will cure that problem. Hopefully that is not the case but good to know for the future..
Good luck and let me know what happens over the next few weeks.
Winfried
Thank you very much for your quick and competent reply. I am very pleased and I recovered hope... There is NO sign of a spider mite attack-fortunately. And certainly no rot. What I can see are some black tips (several mm long, thin) that seem to be developing leave tips that have dried out. But with some optimism I can detect several green tips at the top of the plant, too. So I followed your advise and watered the plant seriously- waiting for what will happen...
Last winter I had stored it at a less bright (but a little warmer) place than the years before-certainbe not bright enough. Maybe that is one of the reasons that it is still dormant. And weather here was worse than normal since the plant is outside - after a short warm period it got cooler again. From now on weather forecast sounds good.
As the plant grew very well over the years I did NOT repot it yet; maybe I should do that soon.
Thank you again. I will let you know about the progress.
Marina
Those black tips may well be spider mite damage. They particularly like new leaves developing. I think a miticide spray might solve the problem .. before the new green leaves have a chance to be attacked.
Winfried
Thank you. I did a first treatment. Those ugly beasts - not visible for my eyes
Marina
I know. It is hard to see the little varmits .. sometimes if you spray the plant with water in direct sun you can see some webs that you can't see without the water.
6.6.13
Barb C. - USA
AnswerSubject:Nopalxochia phyllanthoides
I'm afraid I don't have good news for you. There are no flowers because this is a very sick plant. It has some kind of fungal problem, in my experience, often experienced by plants kept outdoors for a lot of the year. All the leaves (stems) should be bright green like the two or three still left on the plant that I can see.
Fungal problems can often be treated with a fungicide but I think it's too late for this plant which is 90% affected.
If this were my plant I would cut off the green unaffected stems and root them to start new plants. I would give those stems a dose of fungicide to be sure there are no traces of the fungus on them.
I would then consider giving the plant(s) a permanent spot inside the house in the brightest light possible but not full sun.
31.5.13
C.K.
AnswerSubject:Euphorbia rigida
Thanks for the nice compliment.
These have occurred on my plants once in a while and they usually turn into 'paddles' eventually.
I think it is not getting enough light. Where it is in the photo is not enough light. The plant does not full sun but does want absolute maximum light all around it.
Actually the photo doesn't show the spiky growth very well so I'm guessing what they are from what I can see.
You may be feeding it too much. How often do you feed it and with what?
28.5.13
AnswerSubject:Cleaning Orchid Cactus
So sorry to hear of your bad experience with a Euphorbia. We appreciate you sharing this with others who will be more careful in future after knowing what happened to you.
Here's hoping everything is back to normal soon..
28.5.13
AnswerSubject:Orchid cactus
The best way to clean an orchid cactus is by spraying off the dust with warmish water. The plants have fine spines, one of which may have lodged in your finger. I say "may have" because I can't know for sure. Hopefully draining it will get rid of the spine if there is one.
23.5.13
AnswerSubject:Sick and dying orchid cactus
Cutting it down won't help it bloom. Too much chopping will just cause the plant to stress.
Please read my article at http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
This should answer all your questions.
Usually orchid cactus won't bloom if they are not getting the right amount of light, especially during short days of the year. Don't over feed the plant as some people tend to do. Quarter strength monthly is enough. Too often and too much will just force it to grow more green stems at the expense of flowers.
18.5.13
Kim N. - USA
AnswerSubject:Do deer eat succulents?
It is impossible to tell you what the problem is without knowing all the details about the care and history of the plant. However, because you say you have another plant that is still healthy, then I have to assume something like root rot may well be the problem. But that's a guess. It could be any number of other things as well.
If this were my plant I would cut off the last stem (leaf) and destroy the contents of the pot and sterilize the pot itself before using it again. When you cut off that last stem cut high enough from the bottom to allow a good wide area for ots of new roots to form which will be strong enough to hold the plant as it grows.
It isn't a good idea to move plants from one place to another and back again. Each time it is a stress on the plants which have to get used to a new location, different light, etc.
I can't see the top of the stem in your photo very clearly but does not look like adventitious roots to me.
8.4.13
AnswerSubject:The Amateurs' Digest
Sorry to tell you that both deer and rabbits will eat succulent plants .. in fact if hungry enough they will eat anything. I guess you better plan on putting up a protective fence of some kind or risk losing your plants.
Dick Holford, Canada
On the Deer problem: I agree that deer like succulents. Our local black-tails seem to relish my Sempervivums and all sorts of Sedums. I think they are smart enough to avoid Euphorbias, though those in my garden are not 'succulents'. I also think that the deer would have to be pretty hungry to tackle a spiny cactus, such as a hardy Opuntia. Another group they seem to leave alone is Yucca. I haven't risked a hardy Agave outside yet.
Jerry Lehmann, USA
I agree they will eat anything - but they don't seem to wait until they are hungry enough. In my experience they don't seem to like Sedum kamschaticum and other groundcover types of Sedums, but do enjoy the upright types (such as Autumn Joy). Here they do eat Yucca; they love the flower stalks. They don't eat the leaves much during the summer and fall, but will eat Yuccas down to the ground in the winter and spring. It has to do with what's green and available. Deer will even dig out Tulip bulbs and eat them. However they are also creatures of habit. We have a client on a golf course where the deer walk past a planting of Yews, into the back yard to eat the Yews there. Same variety of Yews, just a different location. Why? Who knows...they are just like cows. In fact, depending on location, folks around here call them: Golf Course Cows, Wood Cows, Street Cows and Yard Cows. It never amazes me to see folks and deer on the golf course at the same time, both groups ignoring each other. Try the hardy cactus - that is an excellent idea.
8.4.13
AnswerSubject:Can anything be done with these cuttings?
Our Digest almost exclusively features plants grown by the average hobbyist as opposed to plants growing in their native habitat.
15.3.13
Ashley - USA
AnswerSubject:Epiphyllum .. long tendrils of branches
Did you read my article here : http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
It will tell you all you need to know to grow epiphyllums successfully.
Sometimes, if a plant does not receive the care it needs over a long period of time, it will never do well.
This looks like an Epiphyllum (lower part of photo) but the cuttings don't make sense unless the plant has been growing without very much light for a long time or maybe it is not an Epiphyllum. I just can't be sure based on your photo.
If this were my plant I'd throw out the spindly cuttings. No use trying to root something that isn't right to begin with. Concentrate on the stems in bottom part of photo. Cut off the thick stem and discard. Cut off the first leaf and use to root to start a new plant. Do the same for the leaf coming off that one. This should start another plant.
Follow instructions for care in my article and you should end up with a couple of nice plants
2.3.13
Vera - USA
Subject:An Epi and a Nopalxochia phyllanthoides
Answer
The stems on your plant are normal. Even the skinny ones which in time will fill out to match the width of the wider stems.
I do think your plant needs more light. You said " I keep my plant in a northern window during the winter months with filtered light through my sheers." That is not enough light during winter months. The plant does not want full sun but a north situation is just not bright enough especially when it is also through filtering sheers.
2.3.13
Tony C. - USA
AnswerSubject:Euphorbia tirucalli encounter
You sure made my day. Delighted to hear you are enjoying our web site. I especially thank you for sharing your wonderful photos.
Your plant with the pink flowers is not an Epi .. it is a cactus, however, and is called Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. The one with red flowers is an Epiphyllum hybrid.Thanks for sharing.
25.2.13
AnswerSubject:Epiphyllum
I really appreciate your email explaining what happened to you when growing Euphorbia tirucallii. It's so important to share information like that so that others, including myself, have as much information as possible especially about what we find helps the most when we are 'burned' by euphorbias. Some of us are more susceptible than others and some handle the plants for a while without a problem and then one day we find ourselves reacting as you have done in this case.
I'm so pleased to hear the information on our web site was helpful to you.
29.1.13
Ashley - Canada
AnswerSubject: FYI
Did you read my article on our web site about epiphyllums (Orchid Cactus)? It tells you everything about how to grow and flower them.
The most important points to encourage flowering are:
The plant needs a few weeks of short days before spring. Your plant in the house is probably getting light for more hours a day than naturally appears outside. Starting now throw a black or green garbage bag over it to keep any light out starting at the end of the day when darkness outside begins and you can remove it in the morning when light returns outside. Do this for the next six weeks or so.
Do not fertilize through winter. You have a beautiful plant but it is growing all green at the expense of flowers. This can be caused by too much fertilizer or feeding too often all year long. Cut the fertilizer dose in half if you are using full strength. In any case it doesn't need feeding in winter when it should be resting.
These plants do not like direct sun but since I see no sun damage I am assuming the direct sun is made weaker by the position of it in the house away from windows.
Your soil should have an acid reaction which happens when some peat is added to the soil. If you think your soil is more standard potting soil and has no peat, use a fertilizer for acid loving plants. There are many brands at any garden center. It will say on the container .. for acid loving plants. Use that for every second or third watering.
Start feeding again after the six or so weeks mentioned above. Do not feed more than once a month after that.
Epiphyllums prefer to be pot bound. Do not pot on to a bigger pot. It may look snug in its pot but that's okay.
I expect a nice photo from you when flower buds form and another when they open!!!
Good luck. Let me know if I can help further.
29.1.13
Carly T.
Subject:Gymnocalycium
Answer
Thank you, Carly for pictures of a truly gorgeous plant. I know everyone will enjoy seeing it.
8.12.12
Melissa - USA
AnswerSubject:Epiphyllum flowering
This is a Gymnocalycium (red cactus) grafted on to another green cactus (Hylocereus).
This graft needs very bright light but no direct sun.
Watering should be thorough and another watering not applied until the soil has almost dried out.
In late fall and winter, very little water should be given and temperature should not go below about 50F in winter months, preferably a little higher.
Moving the plant from the North to the South is not a good idea. Plants stress out when given much more light all of a sudden.
The discoloration is probably due to the plant not receiving the right light for several months. That can probably not be corrected if it has gone too far. Only time will tell
Be very careful not to over water for the rest of the winter and maybe you will be lucky and the plant will recover.
8.12.12
AnswerSubject: Mealy bugs on cacti
How long has it been since the plant was put in a fresh soil mix? It may need repotting. How often did you fertilize it to date? Over feeding can result in more green growth at the expense of flowering.
A '"little night light'' may be too much. When it goes dark outside try throwing a dark plastic garbage bag over it " and remove it when light returns outside the next morning.
Good luck.
2.12.12
AnswerSubject:Caudex booklets
The problem is not sap but rather a serious infestation of mealy bug and it can spread rapidly to all your plants.
For a serious infestation like this it is advisable to do some serious initial clean-up beginning with a warm water cleaning with a soft brush. You can add a little dish detergent to the water and once cleaned then rinse the plant off with warm water.
It is virtually certain with that many mealies on your plants that they are in the roots too .. so you should knock off all the soil from the roots and wash them thoroughly too. Pots too should be thoroughly scrubbed with soap and water.
If you have plants without the problem, I suggest you isolate them from the affected plants.
The following is from our booklet "Succulents from Scratch".
Mealy bugs
These are slow, white or pinkish soft bodied insects covered with a white woolly, powdery substance, often waxy. You usually find them on the undersides of leaves of succulents and in cacti between ribs in and around spines especially where there are woolly areoles.Sometimes mealies (our pet name for them) are found in the roots as well as on the body of the plants. If they appear on the body of the plant, check the roots for more bugs. Mealies suck the sap out of a plant and roots and if not dealt with, a sickly plant can result. If the body of the plant is free of bugs that is no assurance there are none in the roots. A few bugs can be removed by hand. Isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab kills them on contact. You can also fill a spray bottle of about 22 oz. with lukewarm water and two tablespoons of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. This will kill mealies but not hurt the plant since alcohol evaporates almost on contact. See next page for information on root mealy bugs. Alcohol will not hurt the plant since alcohol evaporates almost on contact.
Root mealy bugs
It is important to check the roots for mealy bugs too. They will be readily evident as bits of white cottony substance clinging to the roots and sometimes to the pot. Rinse the earth off the roots making sure all sign of the bug is cleaned away. Repot plant in fresh mix. For an extensive infestation you may have to resort to chemical treatments but if you have to use any pesticide, follow the manufacturer's directions precisely. Commercial pest controls vary according to where you live so ask your local garden center for advice. A word of caution here about non-toxic insecticidal soaps. While many growers use these products with great success, others have reported damage to 'cactus plants' after prolonged use. The best advice is if you use any product, follow directions exactly and if in doubt as to whether the application of a product may harm specific plants, either don't use it or use it sparingly.
Mealy bugs lay eggs. If a plant has mealy bugs clean them off and out of the roots. Don't think that's the end of the problem. You may have missed tiny eggs which can develop into more mealy bugs so keep a constant check on your plants for any sign of a new eruption. It's easier to kill a few than an army.
It is wise to isolate any bug infested plant from your clean plants until you are sure the problem has cleared up.
It's easier to kill a few than an army.
Root mealy bugs
It is important to check the roots for mealy bugs too. They will be readily evident as bits of white cottony substance clinging to the roots and sometimes to the pot. Rinse the earth off the roots making sure all sign of the bug is cleaned away. Repot plant in fresh mix. For an extensive infestation you may have to resort to chemical treatments but if you have to use any pesticide, follow the manufacturer's directions precisely. Commercial pest controls vary according to where you live so ask your local garden center for advice. A word of caution here about non-toxic insecticidal soaps. While many growers use these products with great success, others have reported damage to 'cactus plants' after prolonged use. The best advice is if you use any product, follow directions exactly and if in doubt as to whether the application of a product may harm specific plants, either don't use it or use it sparingly.
Mealy bugs lay eggs. If a plant has mealy bugs clean them off and out of the roots. Don't think that's the end of the problem. You may have missed tiny eggs which can develop into more mealy bugs so keep a constant check on your plants for any sign of a new eruption. It's easier to kill a few than an army. Mbr> It is wise to isolate any bug infested plant from your clean plants until you are sure the problem has cleared up.
It's easier to kill a few than an army!
Let me know if I can help further.
11.11.12
AnswerSubject:Life span of an epi
Sure do. Here's the URL to find the Combined Index for all 21 booklets. http://www.theamateursdigest.com/caudex.htm
25.10.12
AnswerSubject:Congratulations
There is no answer to your question. Epis can live indefinitely. All depends on how they are cared for. The bonus to growing the plants in a greenhouse is that they naturally receive the right amount of light year round, less in fall and winter, which encourages flowering in each following growing season. In the greenhouse it is also easier to let the plants have a cool period during days of short daylight, also which encourages flowering. It is difficult (but not impossible) in the house to provide these two particular growing conditions.
25.10.12
AnswerSubject:Euphorbia tortilis
Thanks for the pat-pat Mary, greatly appreciated. We can offer lots and lots of photos so long as people continue to share them with us. The most interesting thing about our Digest (in my opinion) is being able to see plants actually grown by hobbyists around the world and not just plants growing in habitat which look a heap different than our plants grown in pots. Some truly amazing cacti and succulents coming up in our November issue.
16.10.12
AnswerSubject: Sansevierias urgent and serious problem
Euphorbia tortilis is a Euphorbia from India. It is an erect, branching plant with segments 20-25 cm long, 4-5 cm across with 3 spirally contorted, sinuate angles with somewhat depressed sides. The latex is poisonous as is the latex of all Euphorbia species.
4.10.12
Jerry Lehmann, USA (Photos by Jerry Lehmann)
AnswerSubject:Epi oxypetalum - a long time til blooming
I wonder if someone might know the answer to this rather serious problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. . . . . .reply to amdigest@islandnet.com
23.9.12
AnswerSubject:Mealy bugs
You may have answered your own question.. Temperature changes can certainly be responsible. Maybe it's time to bring the plant indoors.
23.9.12
AnswerSubject: Questions about my Epi Cactus
We have referred to mealy bugs in our on line Digest many times but come to think of it, maybe not on our web site.
They are indeed pests hard to get rid of if you miss them and they multiply. I personally swear by Hydrogen Peroxide 3% mixed with water and used as a spray. I use a regular size spray bottle of water and add about two ounces of the HP and give the plants a good spray .. plants with leaves I spray both sides of the leaves. All bugs hate this mixture. I started using it a few years ago and rarely see any pests in my collection. For a heavy infestation I also water it into the soil.
I spray everything, bugs or not, in spring and again in the fall just to remind the bugs to stay away.
HP is not expensive but I did find it lower cost than anywhere else at WalMart. Best regards
23.9.12
Tim B. - USA
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia tirucallii - Pencil Plant help
You have made my day. I'm so glad the information was helpful to you and hope it will be helpful to your friends as well.
Sorry I could not post your second photo .. the sun glare blurred it out too much. This one is pretty nice though. Thanks for sharing it. Good growing!
18.9.12
AnswerSubject:Question about my euphorbia
Thanks for the great tip, much appreciated. Sorry you had to have that experience.
10.9.12
Barb
AnswerSubject: Epi
I wish you could tell me which Euphorbia it is. Can you send a photo? Sometimes plants need to have a rest period which often encourages flowering. If a plant prefers a rest period during the year and we force it to keep going by feeding and watering, it can refuse to flower because it needs that rest. If you could identify it for me, I might have other thoughts on the problem
I believe this is Euphorbia milii .. which can flower year round .. and might take a rest for a while but it will flower again. Maybe the shock of repotting put it off for a while.
Nice, healthy plant.
You didn't mention if you are feeding the plant. Also wonder if it has been in the same pot for several years without a change of soil.
Barb
I feed it regularly, I repotted it about nine months ago ( What A JOB !) I even talk nicely to it!
Jerry Lehmann, USA
Every year I buy a 4" or 6" pot of some readily available milii (or milii-type/hybrid) and plant it in-ground. Full, baking sun tucked in some retaining boulders along my patio. It does receive water via the sprinkler system. Never much for foliage, but it flowers all summer until it is toasted by frost. It doesn't grow that much in height, except maybe putting on only about 4" of new growth. No fertilizer except for a small amount of generic slow-release fertilizer at the bottom of the hole at planting time.
Interestingly, the spines become larger and sharper and "more durable" or "harder" than normal when growing under these conditions.
I wonder if the non-flowering Euphorbia isn't receiving enough sun. The leaves look very large and lush. Maybe the surrounding trees have grown to where there isn't as much direct sun as there used to be; there is more dappled light than before.
One can also try a flowering plant fertilizer. Maybe that will help it to flower.
PS: Also she mentions fertilizing the plant on a regular basis. Maybe that is too much which is evident by the large lush leaves.
What do you think? --Jerry
Marina
You certainly have some good ideas on the problem of the Euphorbia not flowering. Anything is worth a try such as giving it more sun. I did notice the leaves rather lush on this plant. Thanks for your ideas (always good ones).
24.6.12
Klara B.. - USA
AnswerSubject: Questions about my Epi Cactus
Yes. Your epi is indeed lovely. Don't cut it back. The shape of it is perfect. You only cut back or prune when the plant is so dense light can't get to all the stems. Width of stems can vary from one plant to another.
Thanks for sharing.
7.6.12
Tamara P. - USA
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllums
You should not mist the place where the cutting has been cut. That cut needs to callous over and be dry before being planted. If you want to mist the cutting that's fine but keep water away from the cut end.
I don't think they look curled. Epi stems can always look a little wavy. That's normal.
Did you read my article http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm on how to look after the plants? It gives potting mixes specific to this type of cactus. Rooting hormone is an option but not necessary.
31.5.12
Sandy - USA
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum hookeri
Thanks for the nice comments and great photos which I know everyone will enjoy. So glad to hear you now have plants that DO something since you changed your care of them.
27.5.12
Nidia C. - Australia
Answer
Thanks for the nice photos. I'm amazed your plant tolerates full sun most of the time. Epiphyllums much prefer light shade.
The fruit is edible but an acquired taste. Most people try them only once out of curiosity. It is full of hard seeds remember. The fruit should be left on until it is ripe which can take several months depending on growing conditions. Repotting it now won't disturb the fruit providing you don't accidentally knock it off! After five years fresh soil is a good idea.
Congratulations on a beautiful epi which is obviously well taken care of.
19.5.12
AnswerSubject: Spring has sprung
Since the bottom cactus (stock) has to transfer its strength to the cactus grafted on to it (scion), the more of the stock you have on which to graft, the better. You might use a very small stock and be successful with the graft but it will not last as long as a stock several inches taller.
14.5.12
Kathleen G. - USA
AnswerSubject: Cutting a palm tree
Gorgeous photo. Thanks for sharing. This is a Trichocereus (older name Echinopsis) hybrid.
26.4.12
AnswerSubject: Epi problem
It is not a good idea to do that.
Please go to this web site
http://www.sunpalmtrees.com/Palm-Tree-Care-Pruning.html
where they tell you all the reasons why pruning/cuttings palms can cause multiple problems.
John Moran, USA
Please see this web site which says in part as follows
: http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2004/sp0416.pdf
Never top palms. Most palms grown in southern Nevada are single-trunked, having only one growing point. Once that growing point or bud is damaged or killed so is the entire palm. Research in southern Nevada has shown that buds of Washingtonia and Phoenix palms are 18 to 24 inches down from the emergent point (or very top of the trunk). There is never any good reason to top a palm. Some people mistakenly think that topping will shorten a palm that has grown too tall or that it will make the palm branch like a regular tree. Both cases are false. A trunk can be removed from clumping palms such as the Hamaerops humilis or Mediterranean palms, and the rest of the palm will live (see removing trunks on that web site). However, topping is never an option.
21.4.12
AnswerSubject: Growing/Cultivation of Othonna euphorbioides
There are more pest problems with plants kept outside because there are more pests outside than you will ever find in the house or greenhouse. There are even insects specific to palms that could be the culprits.
If you can possibly move your plant indoors, I think the problem will be solved. In the meantime try spraying it with a solution of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (Wal-Mart has I think the lowest price), mixed with warm water. Three or four tablespoons of HP to a liter bottle of water and thoroughly spray the leaves top and bottom. Bugs of all kinds hate it.
You may have to spray it two or three times to make sure you cover the entire plant. Spray the soil too.
Marina
Ah. A snail. Glad you found it.
I know it's wonderful to live in your climate where you can grow so much outdoors year round but the fact still remains plants get more bugs outside than inside. Guess you just have to live with them sorry to say. Best regards.
12.4.12
AnswerSubject: Growing/Cultivation of Othonna euphorbiodes
This is a winter growing plant. It actively grows from early fall through winter and sometimes into spring. This is when water should be given generously, not allowing the plant to totally dry out. Don't forget to feed at this time as well.
When it begins to drop leaves this is your clue to reduce the amount of water you give it until you are not watering it at all. Leave it totally dry until it tells you it wants to grow again by producing new leaves. This should happen some time around October. If it doesn't a good soaking will help start new leaves.
If you follow this watering/no watering pattern I'm sure you will have better results,
Hope this helps.
28.3.12
AnswerSubject: Epi German empress
This is a winter growing plant. It actively grows from early fall through winter and sometimes into spring. This is when water should be given generously, not allowing the plant to totally dry out. Don't forget to feed at this time as well.
When it begins to drop leaves this is your clue to reduce the amount of water you give it until you are not watering it at all. Leave it totally dry until it tells you it wants to grow again by producing new leaves. This should happen some time around October. If it doesn't a good soaking will help start new leaves.
If you follow this watering/no watering pattern I'm sure you will have better results,
Hope this helps.
28.3.12
Garry R. - Australia
AnswerMarina Welham
I'm not sure about the answer to this one. Much depends on how much of the 'growing point' was damaged I think. I'm sending the question to Agave experts and hope to have a definite answer for you.
Robert S., Australia (Has a huge Agave collection)
Re the "broken" agave. I don't think it will survive because the central 'cone' is the growing point.
Gary, with Desert Botanical Garden Plant Hotline. Phoenix
It may survive. Sometimes when that center portion of the plant dies for whatever reason, it may produce a new set of leaves from the undamaged portion of the stem. However, if the center portion collects water in the center, it can rot very easily. I would try to keep the center portion as dry as possible and of course, water it by using drip emitters rather than overhead watering.
Jerry L., USA
Do they mean the new emerging leaves?
Or the stem between the soil level and the bottom-most leaves?
If the previous, I would think the plant will be just fine. The leaves develop way down inside the plant. If the actual meristem is missing, the main rosette may just sit there but the stem may eventually branch. Either way I'm sure the plant will send up pups.
If the latter, just root the top (keep it dry) and let the bottom send up pups.
I once bought the top of a variegated Agave, sliced off at ground level. I rooted it in 50% each sand:gravel in a small pot. I did bury the bottom ring of leaves to make sure there was enough stem in contact with the mix, and for anchoring the plant in place. Tying the plant to the pot would have worked just as well. Once it was well rooted and growing, I then repotted and treated it like normal.
12.3.12
Answer
Jerry L., USA
I've only tried C. juttae from seed, which my plants produce in abundance. I haven't tried the last two or three years because I have never had success...no success at all! I know one person who once had one seedling from a batch of seeds that I gave him. But that is it. And if you search the net, there are people with no problem at all. I wonder if the seeds need really good heat to germinate, such as hot daytime temps (but still cooling at night) or even continual heat (southwest USA in the summer). Maybe the use of a seed starting heat tray would work. If you come across any advice, please post it.
I have tried scarification and placing them in boiling water and letting them soak overnight. Both without success
Marina, Canada
Thanks, Jerry, for your thoughts on the problem. I had another idea too. What about freezing the seed for 24 to 48 hours. That often helps with germination.
Jerry L.
It's worth a try. Regular grape seeds need a very long cold period in order to germinate. Well, maybe even just a vacation in the fridge for a few weeks will work, either dry or moist. OK, so something to try this summer.
After I just wrote that last sentence, I had another few thoughts...I've tried fresh seed and one year old seed. Once I tried keeping the sown, but ungerminated seed, for one year. Still no success.
Marina:
I found these on the net
Werner Voigt
Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden
http://www.plantzafrica.com/plantcd/cyphastemjut.htm
The seeds of Cyphostemma juttae can be sown in winter. (June to August). Although they take a considerable time to germinate, success is almost guaranteed. Propagation can also be undertaken by means of cuttings. Cuttings or truncheons can be made in coarse river sand. Again it is important to water with caution especially when cuttings have rooted.
San Gabriel Valley Cactus and Succulent Society
http://www.sgvcss.com/communique/sotm_2002_07.pdf
An excellent article on the subject by Tom Glavich June 2002
Jürgen L., Australia
We tried freezing, and we have it really hot during summer, even now we get temperatures 30 C plus and at night the temperature drops to 10 to 15 C. They just do not germinate. At least we are not the only ones with this problem. It is very frustrating when you read in books and the internet how easy it is to get this plant to germinate from seed. I have tried scarification and placing them in boiling water and letting them soak overnight. Both without success.
We will try this year in winter. We will sow the seeds in August and see what happens. We will keep you in formed.
We always clean them properly, but how to keep the gelatinous covering from now when the seeds are ripe till August intact is beyond me. It will surely dry up by then. (Marina found one site on the net saying it was important not to disturb the gelatinous covering on the seeds before planting).
Marina:
For those not familiar with this plant I've included this photo of Cyphostemma juttae.
Plant & Photo: Wally F. USA
10.3.12
Doan D. - USA
AnswerSubject: Cactus name...can you help?
This is an Epiphyllum type plant but it is not an Epiphyllum. It is Disocactus phyllanthoides. Care is the same as for Epiphyllum. If you will go to my article here: http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm you will find all the information you need to grow your plant successfully.
The plant usually blooms once a year for about a month. Spots indicate something wrong in growing conditions, usually too high humidity. The spots are a type of fungus. You could spray the stems (leaves) with a fungicide.
The pot in your photo is way too big for the plant. These plants prefer to be a little pot-bound to encourage flowering. After three years it is a good idea to repot the plant into fresh soil mix. See the article mentioned foro the best soil to use.
Yes you can take cutting .. allow the cuts to dry out thoroughly before mailing to your friend.
The plant will do well in Florida providing it is not put in direct sun and the heat is not too high.
I am not aware of any updated publication on the subject.
If you go back to my web site in the questions section, you will find many other questions and answers about the same plant.
Follow up - Doan D.
Thank you very much for your prompt reply! I will check out your article again for more details, I did read through part of it last night and also the FAQ section. I dont think I mentioned in my email about misting it daily, if anything, my water regiment for the plant is very irregular. My guess is maybe once a month (if I remember to do so), but every time I do water what I do is completely saturated the pot with water and then mist the stem throroughly on top of that! I was away and out of town for more than 2 months, and I dont think it been watered the past two months before I took this last picture.
The plant is located under an awning, so it rarely get direct sunlight (the awning face north). I thought you said in your website that these plant should not get direct sunlight. I live in nothern california and so it's temperate enough that I leave the plant outdoor ALL THE TIME.
The other thing that I am concern about that I forgot to mention in my previous email was that even though the plant bloom every year, the flowers color is becoming lighter and lighter. Before it was dark pinkish, then year after year, the pink is becoming brighter and brighter. Should I be concern? Maybe not enough nutrients? I thought that was a problem so last year I bought some cactus nutrient solution and add them into the soil.
Any recommendation for a good book to take care of this plant?
Follow up - Marina
As I said before, the black spots are often due to too high humidity. Misting every day, therefore, is too much moisture. All plants should be watered when they need it and not necessarily weekly or monthly. Depending on the weather the plant might stay moist for two months .. or not. I have no idea what your weather was during that time.
Yes I did say no direct sunlight. Where did I say other than that?
Flower color could become lighter if the plant is lacking something .. but cactus fertilizer is not what I would recommend for this plant. The fertilizers made expressly for cacti are meant for desert cactus types. This is not a desert cactus. I believe my article explains what to use.
As for the book, in my last email I said I was not aware of any current book on the subject of epiphytic plants. You might check out this web site which gives epi care by month and season:
http://gardenjewelsnursery.com/epi-care-spring/
They also have a great special on cuttings right now. Regular $5 each for $2. USA only.
Comment - Jerry L., USA
I was also thinking about the flower color changing. There is the possibility that the plant is receiving more sun than before, thereby fading the flowers. It is also possible that the soil pH has changed. It might have been more alkaline at first (darker - lavender) and has become more acidic (lighter - pink). Think hydrangeas. All potting mix become acidic over time, and other factors could influence that (water pH, fertilizers). The lack of (or less available) magnesium, due to the more acidic soil pH, could be affecting the flower color.
24.2.12
Pam H. - USA
AnswerSubject: Disocactus and Epiphyllum
Yes I do. This is an Echinopsis hybrid.
Nice plant and great photo. Thanks for sharing
24.2.12
Ivy O. - Australia
AnswerSubject: Burro's Tail (Sedum morganianum)
The plant with the pink flowers is not an Epiphyllum. It is Disocactus phyllanthoides. One often finds more information on the internet if we can use the correct botanical name.
The other plants in the photos (which are not as clear as the pink one) are Epiphyllum hybrids. It is not unusual for these plants to produce only a few flowers but the better the care they receive the more likely they will flower profusely.
If you read my article here http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm it will tell you everything you need to know to grow the plants successfully and have maximum flowers.
17.2.12
AnswerSubject: The Amateurs' Digest
Hairs are normal. Dry tips are not. One of the reasons for the hairs is the plant's response to being too dry .. which sounds like the case with the tips drying out. The hairs trap the humidity in the air which is not being sufficiently supplied to the roots in the soil.
The plant should have much less water in winter but the soil should not be allowed to totally dry out at any time.
There are lots of articles on the internet advising best conditions for this plant. If you use the botanical name Sedum morganianum to do a search you will find lots of good information to help you.
17.2.12
Kathy L. - USA
AnswerSubject: Is it an Epi?
After receiving an outline of Kathy's growing conditions for the plant, I suspect a number of problems in the plant's care have caused the stems to dry up. My questions, her answers and my conclusions as follows:
Do you put it outside in spring/summer? ....No it has always been in our sunroom set on a shelf in the corner at about eye level.
Where is it most of the year. .....Has always been where it is in the photo How much light does it get year round. being in the corner like that its indirect light, but fairly well lit The plant needs more light. It does not want full sun but it does need the brightest light possible and that cannot be had where it is in the corner against what appears to be darkish walls.
When was the last time you repotted it with fresh soil? What kind of soil was it? ....It was miracle gro, probably about five years ago.
This plant urgently needs repotting into fresh soil which should be acid rich. In other words add peat to a good potting soil. The pot is too big for the plant as well.
How often do you feed it and with what fertilizer? ....It has been a long time since fertilized i believe it was a 10.19.10 fertilizer
After five years in the same soil and no fertilizer you will not have a healthy plant.
If there are any stems (leaves) that are problem free, if it were my plant I'd take cuttings and start again.
Did you read my article at http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm It will tell you all you need to know about caring for these plants.
2.12.11
Diana V. - Argentina
AnswerSubject: Source for epi cuttings
This is Cryptocereus anthonyanus - the most familiar name to hobbyists. Also known as Selenicereus anthonyanus and Disocactus anthonyanus .. common name Ric Rac Cactus.
It is NOT an Epiphyllum but it is a cactus.
It was discovered in 1946 in Mexico.
Happy Holidays.
Diana:
THANK YOU !!!!!!! I had guessed it was a Disocactus but that's as far as I went. Thanks again for your wonderful ID. I had had this plant for years and it is the first time it blooms for me. I saw the flower just by chance. The plant is hanging in a patio and last night we had a very strong wind so I went out at 2 AM to see if everything was OK there it was!!!!!!! I hadn't even seen the bud!! It was a wonderful surprise for me. 2.12.11
AnswerSubject: Plant ID needed
I am assuming this is an epiphytic cactus similar to epiphyllums.
There is never a guarantee cuttings will root but with five pieces you stand a good chance of getting most if not all to take root and grow. Once the cuts are healed over, plant them about half inch down in a very well draining soil mix and don't water or feed them until roots have formed. Spray lightly every few days with warm water. Keep them in good light but shaded from the sun.
20.11.11
Rick H. - USA
Mick S. - USA
AnswerMick S. - USA
I wouldn't laugh. I'd have done the same thing! I'm not so sure it's a Selenicereus but let's hope you are right.
I would not cut the big leaf. You have lots of green segments you can try to root instead of ruining that leaf. If possible I would not cut the stem from which the big leaf is growing.
Yes, cut back other stems. Cut gradually because you may find somewhere along the stem it is still alive with no hole in the middle. At that point cut no further.
See your photo here with my ideas showing where to take cuttings.
Have you changed the soil in the pot?
Do you have any coir? I find that super great for epiphytic type plants. I use 80% coir to 20% regular potting soil.
AnswerMarina Welham
It is usually not wise to cut back a plant more than 1/3 at a time because of excess stress on the plant. If you cut back gradually hoping stems will still be alive at some point, then you can stop cutting and hope to keep the cutting down to one third or so of the plant .. instead of hacking it to 6 inches.
I use coir and loam based soil.
8.11.11
Kim H. - Canada
AnswerSubject: Importing plants to the USA
http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
The link above is a page in my article on these plants where you will find all the information you need to grow your epi successfully.
I don't know how much light is in your basement but I suspect it won't be enough to sustain healthy plants. Here is an excerpt from my article.
How much light do these plants need?
When sun reaches Epis in their natural environment, it is filtered down to them through the branches and leaves of the trees. They are never subjected to full sun. However, it is interesting to note that plants growing in very dense trees will be found growing high up in the trees where more light is available to them than would be available further down the tree. This tells us that while epis don't want full sun, they nevertheless need very bright light. In fact, if an epi is grown in too much shade, flowering will be poor or the plant may not flower at all. When you see recommendations for growing Epis in the shade, therefore, this does not mean you should put the plants in a dark area under the greenhouse bench.
And yes, your greenhouse is not the place for the plants where they will certainly freeze if the temperature goes as low as you say it does. A bright window in the home would be better.
11.10.11
AnswerSubject: Erythrina crista-galli
Much depends on what you want to import and from where. This web site will give you a lot of information. If you have specific questions contact your local Dept. of Agriculture and they will provide the answers. http://www.aphis.usda.gov/import_export/plants/plant_imports/index.shtml
10.10.11
AnswerSubject: Idrea columnaris
Yes. It is in the family Fabaceae. Hails from S. America. Common name: Coral tree.
The unusual flowers of the Coral Tree are very attractive to hummingbirds.
It should be cut back almost to the ground in fall after flowering is over, transferred to a larger pot and over wintered under glass.
10.10.11
AnswerSubject: Cacti in cowboy films
This is Idrea columnaris. If you have this plant make sure you give it a good size pot because it will have an extensive root system.
10.10.11
AnswerSubject: Euphorbias
There are many types of cactus in cowboy films. If you are referring to one like the giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), they are not often available to hobbyists because they take many years to grow, even small plants from seeds. If you are referring to another familiar cactus called Prickly Pear (Opuntia), your local garden center should have information on where you can buy them. I am not familiar with dealers in your area or the laws of your country about importing plants (if you plan to order from an internet source). Now that I have given you the names of two familiar plants in cowboy films, perhaps you can find a source by doing an internet search. Best regards,
10.10.11
AnswerLinawati - Indonesia
You are right. There are a great many species of euphorbias including both those grown by hobbyists in greenhouses and in the home and plants grown exclusively outdoors. Unless people specialize in the study of the plants, it is pretty well impossible for the average person to know which plant is a Euphorbia and which is not. The more people share information and especially photos to help identify particular species, the more valuable will be the information we can provide.
It is true some euphorbias are used for the treatment of certain medical problems. It would be interesting to have specific medical applications for each plant. For us to provide that kind of specialized information, we would need information and photos from people interested in that aspect of the subject .. which I would be happy to publish on our web site.
In the meantime there are over 36,000 photos of euphorbias on the internet which is a starting point for anyone looking to identify a plant.
If I can help in any way, you can always send me a photo and description of a plant you would like to talk about and I'll see what I can do to help.
I would like to remind everyone that the anti-histamines in the past recommended for the treatment of Euphorbia latex burns, more often than not does not work and often makes the burn worse. Many hobbyists have tried our suggestion of using an application of Calamine lotion and in every case so far they report quick relief. Calamine lotion is a very old remedy for skin rashes and I believe it is available just about everywhere and that it is not expensive.
I am very happy when i know that you are so welcoming to concern my problem about euphorbia... here i send photo of euphorbia.
in my region (Bali) this type is very familiar.. almost every house has this plant, and it found in many colour: orange, red, yellow. it would interesting for me, if you dont mind to help me to clasified this type of euphorbia, is it danger? or it benefit in health? (according to your experience in euphorbia) i believed that you will give me good information about that. thank you very much.
AnswerLinawati - Indonesia
Thank you for the photo of your beautiful plant.
This is a variety or hybrid of Euphorbia milii. There are countless varieties and hybrids of this Euphorbia.
The plant is native to central-southern Madagascar where it grows in areas characterized by the presence of granite rocks.
The species (milii) is dedicated to the French explorer Pierre Bernard Milius (1773-1829) who introduced it in France in 1821.
The latex contains irritating carcinogenic substances. Contact with the skin may cause serious dermatitis in the most sensitive people and if it gets accidentally into the eyes it may cause temporary blindness. On the other hand the latex is used in some applications in traditional medicine and a substance contained in it has shown a remarkable anti-leukemia activity.
The following is an excerpt from this web site:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euphorbia
The latex (milky sap) of spurges acts as a deterrent for herbivores as well as a wound healer. Usually it is white, drying colourless, but in rare cases (e.g. E. abdelkuri yellow. As it is under pressure, it runs out from the slightest wound and congeals within a few minutes of contact with the air. Among the component parts are many di- or tri-terpen esters which can vary in composition according to species, and in some cases the variant may be typical of that species. The terpen ester composition determines how caustic and irritating to the skin it is. In contact with mucous membranes (eyes, nose, mouth) the latex can produce extremely painful inflammation In experiments with animals it was found that the terpen ester resiniferatoxin had an irritating effect 10,000 to 100,000 times stronger than capsaicin the "hot" substance found in chili peppers Several terpen esters are also known to be carcinogenic
Therefore spurges should be handled with caution. Latex coming in contact with the skin should be washed off immediately and thoroughly. Partially or completely congealed latex is often no longer soluble in water, but can be removed with an emulsion (milk, hand-cream). A physician should be consulted regarding any inflammation of a mucous membrane, especially the eyes, as severe eye damage including possible permanent blindness may result from acute exposure to the sap. It has been noticed, when cutting large succulent spurges in a greenhouse, that vapours from the latex spread and can cause severe irritation to the eyes and air passages several metres away. Precautions, including sufficient ventilation, are required. Small children and domestic pets should be kept from contact with spurges.
AnswerLinawati - Indonesia
You are welcome for the information.
To answer your latest question, all parts of the plant are poisonous including the flowers.
The nature of all your questions leads me to wonder if you are doing some kind of medical research and/or writing a paper or article on the subject. If this is true, now that you have the identification of the plant, you will find a tremendous amount of information about it on the internet if you do a search on Google for Euphorbia milii toxicity.
23.9.11 Subject: Epi rot
Robert M. - USA
AnswerSubject: Neoregelia 'Sarah Head' (Bromeliad)
From what I can see this is a simple case of rot. It won't be too long before the healthy looking stems have the same problem.
Clay pots are porous but seepage to the outside would only happen after a fairly long period of time. If you recently repotted, as you say, was the pot thoroughly cleaned before you used it again? The white substance on the outside of the pot is what happens when you have an excess of salts in the soil. This is caused by incorrect watering and/or poor drainage. The brown stains are from discolored water from either the soil in the pot or soil and rotting roots.
Once rot sets in usually a plant won't recover as it spreads throughout the roots, soil and stems. There is always, however, some chance of saving cuttings so I suggest you start again.
Cut off any green stems that have no discoloration, let them dry a few days and pot up to root and start new plants.
You need to use no bigger than 4 inch pots if you are going to root single stems on their own. If you are going to pot up and root several stems, a 6 inch pot is more than sufficient.The pot you are using is far too big. Epis prefer to be pot bound. Pots that are too big only contribute to keeping the soil saturated with water for too long and this encourages rot.
The soil you used is wrong. Cactus soil is for desert type cactus - not for epiphyllums which need a richer soil with peat added to give it an acid reaction. The right soil is very important for these plants..
Please read my article http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm which will tell you all about the right conditions for epiphyllums including light, feeding, etc.
Once you unpot and replant I'd throw out the old pots and soil mix just in case there is some pathogen remaining in the porous clay that could start the problem all over again for other plants.
Hope this helps.
14.9.11
Walt P. - UK
AnswerSubject: plant help needed
The pups may or may not have roots since they are quite big now. You could have split them off when they were about one third to half the size of the original plant. You certainly can do that now. Try to slice them off very close to the original plant. You can either dispose of the original plant .. or keep it because sometimes, but not always, it will produce more pups.
If the pups do not have roots and you have sliced them off close to the mother plant, if you simply pot them up and spray the leaves every few days, they should produce roots of their own.
Or .. you can carefully cut off the main plant near soil level and leave the two pups to carry on.
It's best to repot into fresh potting mix about every year.
4.9.11
AnswerPeg
I'm glad to have you back with us for another year. So pleased you find our Digest helpful. About your problems. I think the main problem you have is "humidity". Some plants will be affected more than others as you are finding out.
High humidity is something succulents despise. It can cause all sorts of problems including fungus which is what is wrong with your Echeveria. This fungus spreads quickly, especially if you do not quickly remove the dead leaves which normally occur on the bottom of the plants. One fungus spore on one leaf can quickly cause the fungus to spread.
While corking is often normal on older plants, it can also be started and/or be encourage to spread by too high humidity.
The plants showing reddish coloration on the top are another matter. I'm wondering if they were put outside into the sun without getting them very slowly acclimatized to the sun. When you take plants out of the house or greenhouse and put them outside, if they are suddenly hit with full outdoor sun, they will turn red. It doesn't look like rot and I can't think of any other reason for the coloration. If that is the reason for the coloring they will go back to green in time when removed from full sun.
The white fuzzy 'stuff' on the infested plant looks a little like mealy bug but you told me it is not that pest. It is not scale so the only other culprit is a white fungus, again encouraged by high humidity. There are many different types of fungi.
I would not toss out your plants. Half the fun of growing succulents is solving succulent problems! I don't know how high the humidity is outdoors there when you put the plants outside but I suspect if you kept them in the greenhouse all year you would have fewer problems.
Finally, there is one plant that doesn't look to have much wrong with it other than very slight markings of brown. I don't think in this case there is a problem but maybe I'm not seeing something?
Photo 1: Corking. High humidity and possible splashing of water up from the soil (which is the same as high humidity). You could slice off the corked part and re-root the green part.
Photo 2: Moving to outdoor sun too fast? Corking on the biggest one looks more like age to me than humidity but humidity could be the culprit too. I'd cut off that brown part and re-root the green part.
Photo 3: Can't see much wrong with this one.
Photo 4: Another case of white fungus. I do not believe it is scale insect.
Photo 5: Echeveria This is a brown fungus. Humidity again. Keep an eye on leaves that dry up and/or fall off and remove them. If there is a touch of fungus on any of them it will quickly spread on the plant and to other plants.
AnswerSubject: My epi is sick
I'm glad we hit on the source of the trouble which is half the battle - right?
Don't keep the cacti in a place that is too warm in winter. They are much better off at a colder temperature for winter months when they want to have a rest. Winter growers an exception of course.
Heating a greenhouse to keep the humidity down is an expensive proposition these days. Wish there was some other cheaper solution
4.9.11
Sara
AnswerSara
Problems like this don't suddenly happen so I doubt your sister was responsible. Something in the plant's growing conditions is not right. This appears to be a fungus of some kind and a good spray with a fungicide might help. Remove the affected leaves first so it doesn't spread.
The shape of the plant does look odd. I notice there seems to be a number of single stems planted in the soil as opposed to one main stem. Was this a case of single stems or cuttings planted in one pot? Sometimes a nursery will plant several cutting in a pot to make it look like one big plant. Cuttings take a lot longer to reach flowering size than one mature plant.
Is the plant getting enough light. It doesn't want full sun but maximum light is important.
Has it been put outside during the summer? Plants put outdoors often exhibit fungus problems at the end of the season.
How long has it been since you repotted it into fresh soil?
If you read my article on epis on this page
http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
it should answer all your general questions.
Flowering will happen but only if you give the plant several weeks of short days at the end of winter. This means it should have only the same light as appears outdoors. This is also covered in my article.
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum Orchid Cactus
I take it then you don't know what the plant is potted in. It is important that the soil be on the acid side and my guess is whoever potted it used plain old potting soil or cactus potting soil.
If I were you I'd unpot the plant, shake off the soil and you'll soon see if you have multiple plants and not just one single plant. I'd prepare a new soil mix. The simplest thing is to use a good brand potting soil into which you mix a fair amount of peat to give the acid reaction.
If there are multiple cuttings I would pot them individually. Keep in mind they prefer to be pot bound so don't go putting the in big pots. Four to six inch pots should be enough if you have multiple plants. A six inch pot is big enough even for what you have in the pot now.
Every time somebody has a fungus problem they tell me the plant has been outside in summer. I too had the same problem. Keep it in the house near a bright window if you can.
Fungicides differ from one place to another. I would have no idea what products are available in the US. However, I am a firm believer in using natural products and one that has had great success with me and others is hydrogen peroxide - 3%.
Hydrogen peroxide treatment - 3%
To prevent bacterial and fungal problems on plants, hydrogen peroxide will prevent the disease spores from adhering to the plant tissue. It causes no harm to plants or soil. Ii would not, however, use it on small seedlings. Always test on a small portion of plant tissue first to check for any negative reactions. Do not proceed if there is any damage to plant tissue. Do not substitute food grade h2o2 for the common h2o2. I put a few tablespoons of the hydrogen peroxide - 3% in a spray bottle of warm water and spray top and bottom of leaves. Any left over I water into the soil. For plants with a problem such as yours, do this once a week during dry weather and twice a week in wet weather for the next month. This will hopefully work as a preventative to stop the problem getting worse. Another benefit of using this product is that bugs hate it!! I had a rampant scale problem once. They are the worst critters to get rid of. After several sprays with this I haven't seen a scale insect since. And this was on delicate bromeliads so you know it is fairly safe to use on all plants.
If you prefer to buy a chemical fungicide ask your local supplier what to recommend as they would know their products and what they should be used for. Just tell them it is for a succulent plant.
Let me know what you find if you unpot the plant and start again.
PS - You can get Hydrogen Peroxide 3% at any drug store but it's way cheaper at Wal-Mart
4.9.11
AnswerSubject: Haworthia roots
You will find answers to most questions about epiphyllums in my article here:
http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
It includes this comment:
My epi won't flower. Why not?
Epis need a period of several weeks at the end of winter when they should only have the same amount of light as light appears outside. These short days trigger flowering in spring for spring blooming species. This poses a problem for plants indoors which receive light from artificial lights in the house. You have to cover the plant at dusk and remove the cover next morning to give the short day effect. Another factor in blooming has to do with pot size. If the pot is too big a plant it will spend its time producing roots to fill the pot at the expense of concentrating on flowering.
As regards the long stem eventually it will produce leaves and bend over from the weight and then it won't touch the ceiling.
Epiphyllums are not orchids even though the common name is Orchid Cactus. Please refer to the mentioned article for instructions on soil, watering and feeding.
Since your plant has white flowers, it will be night blooming.
4.9.11
AnswerGail G..
The roots of many succulents will dry up and fall off if they are allowed to go without water for too long. Haworthia roots in particular have a tendency to do that which is why in spring and summer when they are having a rest it is recommended to water just enough to keep the roots from drying out so that they don't dry up and fall off.
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllums: Questions and gratitude
I can find no record anywhere of Pachyveria being poisonous .. HOWEVER, if you treat any plant with a contact pesticide or insecticide or systemic version of the same, then any plant can be poisonous.
29.7.11
Sandy S. - USA
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia ID
Thank you for the nice compliments. I'm glad you find our web site useful.
Your plants are so beautiful.
You can certainly re-pot them into fresh soil. I don't think you have to spit them up. You could, however, take off the extra ones you potted with them. Just tug those roots away from the ones on the main plants. If you break a few roots in the process nothing too drastic will happen.
Once you have them all repotted into fresh soil, then you can do some wise pruning, removing any leaves (stems) that would improve the look of or balance of the plants.
I gather the plants are not flowering now so you can unpot them and proceed at any time. Soak the "cement" thoroughly to help loosen the roots. You need to get off as much of the old soil as possible before repotting.
If while doing all this some roots are broken, to allow them time to heal, don't water the newly potted plants for a week or two to give them chance to heal. Then water thoroughly.
Thanks for sharing the great photos .. and as for subscribing to our Digest .. delighted to have you join our world wide membership.
If you need further help, holler any time.
17.7.11
Liz - UK
AnswerSubject: Nopalxochia phyllanthoides
It is definitely a Euphorbia. I can't tell you the species. It looks very much like Euphorbia millottii but I can't be sure if that's the plant. Even hate to guess in case it is not that one. If it is E. millottii then the plant is deciduous .. it will lose leaves when it goes dormant. At that time very little water should be given and no fertilizer.
The white latex is poisonous so be careful handling the plant.
Treat as any succulent, watering thoroughly and allowing to dry out between waterings. Feed with any balanced fertilizer with trace elements at 1/4 strength about once a month during the growing season.
I would keep it out of direct sun but provide the brightest light possible. Minimum temperature year round 60F (15C).
It is from Madagascar.
26.6.11
Bonnie G. - USA
AnswerSubject: Heavy Prickly Pear repotting
Thanks, Bonnie, for sharing your photo of your magnificent plant.
26.6.11
AnswerSubject: Orchid cactus
You can slice across the bottom of the biggest pad on the bottom of the plant, let the cut dry for a few days and then place the whole thing on a pot of fresh soil mix. You may have to use a couple of small rocks on either side to hold it upright. That pad will produce new roots to take advantage of the new soil. When roots take hold you can remove the rocks. It will be a bit tricky cause you have to handle the plant so wear thick garden gloves and use plenty of newspaper to protect from spines. You won't need a pot bigger than the one you had so once you remove the main plant you can throw out the roots and soil from the original pot and start again using the same pot. That is of course if you don't have to cut off the pot because the root system won't budge. Before you cut through the pot though, try watering it thoroughly. That sometimes loosens things up.
PS: It would be a good idea to slice a piece off either side of the bottom of the pad so that when the soft flesh in the middle sinks in (where you cut it) the bottom of the cutting will be even all the way across.
See photo. (This photo for illustration puposes is Opuntia ovata)
Comment on moving large cacti safely from Jerry L., USA
Besides thick gloves or newspaper I have great success using tongs...smaller sized for smaller plants that bite; large grilling tongs (flat, like for hamburgers, not with teeth) for the large and heavy plants that bite. And be careful moving the pads around that they don't accidentally fall out of the tongs and onto your feet. Ouch! 13.6.11
Maryann
AnswerSubject: Disocactus (Nopalxochia) phyllanthoides
Yes it is an Epiphyllum.
I think you need to put it in a pot with drainage holes. The soil needs to have some peat added to it to make it acidic. The fertilizer 30-10-10 is high in nitrogen and is encouraging green growth rather than flowering. I'd switch to 20-20-20 all purpose fertilizer. Or use what you have at half strength until it's finished.
Just as important ....
My epi won't flower. Why not?
Epis need a period of several weeks at the end of winter when they should only have the same amount of light as light appears outside. These short days trigger flowering in spring for spring blooming species. This poses a problem for plants indoors which receive light from artificial lights in the house. You have to cover the plant at dusk and remove the cover next morning to give the short day effect. Another factor in blooming has to do with pot size. If the pot is too big a plant will spend its time producing roots to fill the pot at the expense of concentrating on flowering.
Send me a photo of your first flower next spring.
13.6.11
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum fungi?
Hate to tell you but your plant has a major problem. Looks to me like a fungus disease and usually the advice is to destroy the entire plant. However, I do know how you feel so I'd try to save it by rooting cuttings that are not yet affected .. if there is any on the plant.
You could try a fungicide too, thoroughly spraying it on all the leaves, top and bottom.
It would also be wise to get rid of all the soil the plant is growing in, rinse off the roots, apply fungicide there too and repot into sterilized soil.
Sorry I couldn't offer a better answer. Next time if you see spots forming, treat it immediately before it gets to the stage it is in now.
Follow Up
I would not throw out your plant yet. Are there no good leaves you can try rooting? I'm surprised it has flowered as well as it has.
To tell the truth most plants with problems that I've seen are kept outside at least part of the time. I tried growing mine outside one year and the lot became infected. Indoors there is never a problem. Why? I don't know but there are more fungi and bacteria floating around outdoors than there would be in a greenhouse or in the house.
The temperature change should not be a problem so long as it's not too hot or too cold. I know how you feel. This is a wonderful plant with marvelous flowers. Not easy to find another.
2.6.11
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia ID question
It's tough to know what it is without being able to see it. If you could send a picture of the white stuff close up it would help a lot.
In the meantime, mealy bugs are a possibility although in my own experience they don't bother these cacti as much as they bother other types..
Another possibility is if the white 'stuff' is crusty and comes off easily, it may be that the water you are using is too high in mineral content (hard water). Using bottled water to spray the plant would be better than tap water if this is the case.
Follow Up
Great photo but I still can't be positive. Looks like mineral deposit from the hard water but I can't be 100% sure.
Can you brush it off? If so it should all be brushed off.
Wow. That's a bad case.
30.5.11
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia burns
Probably the easiest way to ID the two is to know E. lactea has a whitish band down the middle of the stem. E. trigona, on the other hand, has a dark green stem with light green, V-shaped markings.
PS If you want full descriptions of those two plants let me know.
11.5.11
AnswerHelen
Thanks for sharing your nasty experience with euphorbias. Sorry you had to go through that. I believe you can get Calamine lotion in the UK? Many who have used it for Euphorbia 'burns' have found that the anti histamine creams don't work but the Calamine lotion does. You might want to try it if you are still having problems. Sure hope your skin clears up soon. It can be a very painful experience, I know.
AnswerSubject: A special gardener in Australia
That's great. I wasn't sure you had seen the notice about the Calamine lotion on our web site. Glad it helped. Interesting too about the baking soda. Sometime the old fashioned remedies work better than today's fancy creams.
7.5.11
AnswerSubject: Frozen Epi
There is a Japanese cultivar like this called Astrophytum myriostigma cv. fukuryiu type A (ribs between normal ribs).
Fukuryu is a Japanese word that means presence of additional ribs. The name Fukuryu applies to two distinct forms. Type A is the most often encountered form where the plant has small, partially developed extra ribs which never develop into full size ribs. Another form (Type B) has many irregular growths between and on the ribs. That form is very rare.
5.5.11
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum shoot
Yes, I heard about your bad weather in Texas this year. What a pity about the plants. I guess it's always wise to have a heater on hand in case of an emergency.
The best thing you can do is to leave the roots alone. If there is any life left in them that might produce new stems, it's better to give them time to get over the shock of freezing. If the soil is wet don't water again until the soil is almost totally dry and then give only a little water. If new shoots appear then you can water properly and feed. Do not feed or repot in the meantime.
When stems all rot off after freezing, usually the rot spread to the roots (hate to tell you) but plants can fool us sometimes and there is a small chance the roots could produce new shoots if they are still healthy and rot has not set in.
Good luck.
27.4.11
AnswerSubject: Can you help?
If you wait a while you will find it's a new leaf (stem). It will eventually change shape to look more like the others. This happens sometimes .. it just happened with one of my plants too.
19.4.11
Linda
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum dry, sunken spots
I can tell you for sure your plant is NOT an Epiphyllum (Orchid Cactus). It is a Rhipsalis (also can be found under Lepismium for information). I think it is Rhipsalis (or Lepismium) cruciforme. It is a variable plant and could be a variety of that species.
The white fuzz you talk about are not flowers. They are where flowers will emerge when the plant does flower. They are called areoles. All cacti have them. Some are more noticeable than others such as on your plant where they look like fuzzy white cushions of hairs. They sure make the plant look more attractive than plain green stems. After flowering very small fruits will form.
Care is about the same as for Epiphyllum. They need very bright light but not direct sun.
Yours is a beautiful specimen. You are lucky to have it. And thanks for sharing a great photo.
17.4.11
Larry - USA
AnswerLarry
Glad you find our web page helpful.
I think your epi should go in a smaller pot. The one it's in is one gallon size isn't it? I can't be sure by looking at the photo. A six inch pot should be big enough .. which reduces amount of soil .. which in turn prevents soil from staying soaking wet for long periods - which may be happening now.
The soil should be allowed to dry out somewhat before watering again. If you keep watering it when there is already a lot of water in the pot, it leads to problems including root rot. Put a flat stone on top of the soil after it's repotted. If the soil looks dry but there is a spot of wet under the stone, you don't need to water it. If it is dry under the stone it needs watering.
Outdoor ground soil is no good for epis. It needs to have an acid reaction, best provided by the addition of peat or coir to the soil and then some coarse sand or grit should be added for drainage. I would not use vinegar. It might be too strong and it doesn't last. The addition of peat will be just right and will continue to provide the acid reaction the plant likes. I use 1/3 peat, 1/3 potting soil, 1/3 grit.
As for misting, the plants do like to be misted but you can overdo it. On hot days daily misting is okay. But if the weather is just normal and not that hot, a '"light'" misting once a week or even every two weeks is enough. If the air is very dry that's when you keep a container of water nearby to add moisture to the air. In winter months an occasional light misting is all that is needed.
Fertilize the plant once a month. You don't need to do it more than that.
The sun can get pretty strong in summer so I think having your plant in that location is asking for trouble. It doesn't take much for the leaves to burn or have burn spots. I notice water spots on the leaves in your photos. When hot sun hits the leaves those water spots act like a magnifying glass increasing the heat of the sun even more. The plant should be protected from this direct sun but still have very bright light. If you throw a shade cloth over it the air circulation will be cut down which is not good. And there isn't much point in having an epi, especially if it flowers, if you can't see the plant properly. You really need to move the plant to a bright but not direct sun location.
I put my epi with pot into another hanging pot and after adding the hanger I throw a piece of shade cloth over that which holds up the shade cloth leaving enough open area below the cloth for air to move around. My problem was having a plant with sun hitting it on the top and not the sides. Sun hits your plant on all sides so there is bound to be some leaves still exposed to the sun so the hanging pot idea might not work for you. Of course you could position the cloth from the top down one side (side sun hits) and leave the shaded side exposed to the air.
In short, I think you are beginning to see problems because .. pot is too large, soil it not right, watering too much, misting too much and too often, feeding too often, direct sun instead of shading. Still and all the plant looks pretty healthy so a few adjustments and you should see it thrive.
If this were my plant I'd remove the two affected leaves. The plant will look better and you will feel better when you look at it !!!
Hope this helps.
AnswerLarry
Glad I could help.
I look forward to seeing the epi again .. with lots of lovely flowers
AnswerLarry
I'm glad the plant is doing better.
I suspect you are watering more often than needed. You should not need to water every 4th day. Also you don't need to mist twice a week. Once a week in warm weather is enough. Once very two weeks otherwise.
The solution to the hard water spots? Use bottled water for misting. If you have just the one plant one bottle used only for misting should last quite a long time and not be too expensive.
AnswerSubject: A special gardener in Australia
Darn. I forgot you are in Tucson and that the plant is outside. Now it all makes sense. Sorry about that
17.4.11
AnswerSubject: Trimming an epiphyllum
No. It is not the same as a plant that crests.
The reason for spiralling euphorbias has never been found. Many experiments have been made over the years but results of these tests have so far been unsatisfactory. Tests, however, have not been a wasted effort. It was discovered that there is a consistency in plant spiralling. The direction of the upward curve is consistently clockwise, as seen in the thread on a bolt or a wood screw. It can be concluded, therefore, that if a plant could be found with a reverse or counter clockwise spiral, it would be rare indeed.
Another curious thing about spiral stems is that offshoots from a stem of this nature very rarely inherit the winding gyrations of the mother plant. They always revert to the natural straight ribbed stem.
A test made to determine constancy in later generations yielded negative results. Not one spiral seedling was produced from 42 seeds taken from a sharply spiralled Euphorbia fimbriata. This proves conclusively that spirals are not hereditary. This characteristic is an acquired abnormality limited to a plant individually and not transmitted genetically. This behaviour is curious since seeds from cristate forms, which we usually think are associated with spiralled plants, do produce a certain percentage of cristate plants.
It has also been determined that external conditions such as richness of soil, temperature, etc. have nothing to do with this peculiar spiralled growth.
8.4.11
AnswerLynn G.
If you "trim" the leaves they will probably produce new leaves (along the trimmed leaves) and you will have a messy looking plant and an even heavier one.
To reduce the weight remove entire leaves at the base. There is no way to shorten existing leaves to have both sides match.
Many epiphytic plants grow in hanging baskets so that is no indication of which one you have. There are so many hybrids now that even when they flower you can't be sure of the identification.
I hope you remember me and our exchange of emails re what I call my "Orchid Cactus". I did prune it as you suggested and it looks quite healthy. I did root some stems that I cut off and they are doing well. I finally found some pictures that I took of my plant in bloom. Hopefully, you will be able to identify it for me. Again, thanks for your interest and responses.
AnswerSubject: Comment about the March issue
What a gorgeous plant. Thanks so much for sharing the photo with us. As I think I mentioned before, I cannot identify the plant for you. There are so many Epiphyllum hybrids nowadays that unless you know the origin of the plant, knowing it's specific name is just about impossible.
8.3.11
AnswerSubject: Queen of the Night cactus (Selenicereus grandiflorus)
Thanks for the nice feedback, greatly appreciated.
5.3.11
AnswerSubject: Trimming an epiphyllum
I presume from your email address you are in Australia.
One source is at this web site address:
http://www.kakteen-haage.de/shop/plants/blattkakteen/selenicereus/?lang=1
For other sources in Australia try a search on Selenicereus grandiflorus source, Australia.
22.2.11
AnswerSubject: Aphid eggs ?
If you "trim" the leaves they will probably produce new leaves (along the trimmed leaves) and you will have a messy looking plant and an even heavier one.
To reduce the weight remove entire leaves at the base. There is no way to shorten existing leaves to have both sides match.
Many epiphytic plants grow in hanging baskets so that is no indication of which one you have. There are so many hybrids now that even when they flower you can't be sure of the identification.
12.1.11
Theresa N. - USA
AnswerMarina Welham
I would be very cautious about using insecticidal soap on cacti. With repeated use it tends to burn the skin of cactus plants.
Where do you house your plant? Aphids are more prevalent in a greenhouse if there are aphid loving plants outdoors near a greenhouse.
I cannot clearly see the 'eggs' in the photo. I think I see a couple of black spots which could be aphid eggs but I can't say for sure.
This is NOT Selenicereus anthonyanus which has a distinctive deeply notched stem.
12.2.11
Noor-Jumana K.
AnswerSubject: Pachpodium "bumps"
The plant has had far too much water. To follow that with cold weather and then warm weather is just too much stress on the plant. Why the new leaf hasn't gone bad yet is something I can't answer. Maybe that one is next. Any succulent that is over-watered will eventually rot off. When weather is that changeable, wet, cold, etc. the plant should be protected under cover somewhere, either in a greenhouse or in the home near a bright window.
18.1.11
AnswerGail G. - USA
Nice to hear from you and thanks for the nice compliment about our Digest. I'm glad you enjoy it.
Any chance you can send me a picture of the plant and preferably a close-up of the stem problem?
I wouldn't put anything on the plant without knowing for sure if there is a problem and what it is.
If it is what they call corky scab the recommendation is to increase light and decrease humidity. Since you seem to indicate the plant summered outdoors I assume it had plenty of sunshine. What was the humidity like during those months?
I look forward to hearing back from you.
I can't thank you enough for all your help, both with my sickie Packy and for the advise and suggestions you've provided both directly to me and on your web site.
AnswerSubject: Epi questions
Best I can tell from the photos this looks like a rust disease which happens more with plants grown outdoors than plants kept inside the house or greenhouse. The spores are carried from infected plants to healthy plants by splashing rain or air currents.
Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not over water your plant. Make sure that the plant has good air circulation.
Treat the plant with a fungicide. Keep it away from other plants that could also be infected.
Another treatment which follows is one of many natural remedies on this web site ..
http://www.ghorganics.com/page15.html#Apple%20Cider%20Vinegar%20Fungicide
is the use of Hydrogen Peroxide 3% .. which from my own experience I know works very well for all manner of problems including this one.
"Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment
To prevent bacterial and fungal problems on outdoor plants use hydrogen peroxide! Hydrogen peroxide will prevent the disease spores from adhering to the plant tissue. It causes no harm to plants or soil, however don't use on young transplants or direct seeded crops until they have become established. Warning: Always test on a small portion of plant tissue first to check for any negative reactions. Do not proceed if there is any damage to plant tissue. Do not substitute food grade H2O2 for the common H2O2. Spray plants with undiluted 3 percent hydrogen peroxide that you can buy most anywhere. Be sure to cover tops and bottoms of leaves. Do this once a week during dry weather and twice a week in wet weather. This works as a preventative. If you already have problems use this as a direct treatment."
Finally, I recommend you re-pot the plant into a fresh soil mix. If you use the Hydrogen Peroxide I'd water it into the soil with the first thorough watering in spring as well as spraying the plant itself.
Good luck and keep me posted on your results.
10.1.11
AnswerJanice Bovee, USA
I think the main problem with your plant is that it has been moved around too much and has not had the right growing conditions. Every time it is moved it suffers some amount of shock and has to get used to a new situation which takes time. Sunburn also stresses out the plant. In the process of all these growing condition problems the plant has not had the right time or conditions to want to grow properly and flower.
Indirect sunlight is fine for this plant. A little pruning to remove a few leaves now and again won't hurt the plant but over pruning is another stress on the plant and not recommended.
Try to find a place for it where you don't have to move it again. Fertilize once a month with an acid type fertilizer .. and if it has not been repotted for a long time, treat it to some fresh soil with peat added to give the soil an acid reaction.
Other than that just follow directions in my article which I see you have already read. Good luck.
3.1.11
Answer
This is an easy to grow cactus. Its main requirement is plenty of sunshine all day long, all year long. For best spine formation try to give the plant full sun all day long in spring and summer. Sun part of the day in winter is okay when the plant is not actively growing. In spring and summer water thoroughly and then allow to almost dry out between waterings. Very little water should be given in winter months. If your house is kept cool a little water once a month is enough. If your house is very warm, a little water every two weeks should be enough.
Do not fertilize in fall and winter. In spring and summer use any balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) containing trace elements and use at 1/4 strength recommended on the label. Once a month should be enough.
This is a very nice plant. Good luck with it.
Plant & Photo: Rosi and Jürgen Lenz, Australia
22.11.10
Sue N. - USA
AnswerSubject: My Epiphyllum is too wet
This is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. Great photo. Thanks for sharing
10.9.10
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum anguliger stems
So glad you enjoy our web site.
Root rot should not happen that fast. If you have it in a warm spot in the house the soil will dry out in time. There is no way to hasten the drying other than to repot into fresh soil and I don't think you need to do that.
5.10.10
AnswerSubject: Pencil cactus
Since I don't know the plant's growing conditions, it's difficult to give you an answer. One reason for stems (leaves) to wrinkle a bit is usually after a heavy flowering period which takes a lot out of a plant. If this is the cause the stems will go back to normal not long after.
There is always the possibility too that this is an early sign of root problems. Sick or dying roots do not take up water. When did you last repot the plant? You might want to unpot it and see is the roots are healthy.
The yellowing could indicate over watering or .. again, root problems.
I am presuming the plant gets plenty of good light but not direct sun. Lack of sufficient light will weaken a plant and cause all sorts of problems including yellowing, shrivelling, etc.
5.10.10
AnswerSubject: rabbit poop
This is absolutely the worst story I've ever heard about the dangers of euphorbias. Thank you for sharing it. I am hoping with your stories and others like it, people will see the plants in garden centers and warn the sellers. Trouble is many don't know they are euphorbias and find out the hard way.
Thanks again for sharing
12.8.10
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum problems
I'm sorry to say I don't know. It has never been discussed in our hobby as far as I know. I guess you'd have to go and get it analyzed to see if it would be a viable fertilizer for epies.
11.8.10
Sherry M.. - USA
AnswerSubject: Bubble wrap around plants
In your photo I can see only one problem, a dried out stem to the right of the picture. Otherwise the picture shows a plant that looks healthy. You say there are a "few" leaves with entire midsections affected. I would cut out these leaves at their base and destroy them. Usually the advice is to destroy the entire plant before the problems spread to other plants but I can't be sure (from the photo) that you have a problem major enough to take that kind of drastic action.
The spots are usually caused by a fungus and this problem usually starts during humid and cool conditions in winter months. Drastic temperature variations are sometimes to blame.
A fungal or bacterial disease is also the usual cause for sunken, dried, discolored areas on the stems.
A good dusting with any fungicide (on both plants) may help and is worth trying after removing all affected leaves.
All you can do is take some good cuttings in case the fungicide doesn't work .. but keep in mind the cuttings may already be infected with the same bacterial or fungal infection.
15.8.10
AnswerSubject: Orchid cactus .. time to repot?
I wish I could see the size of your plant and know how many cuttings you have taken off. Too many cuttings off any plant will set back the plant and could prevent it from flowering.
When was the last time you repotted it? After two or three years the goodness in the soil will be spent and repotting into fresh mix (an acid soil is preferred for this plant) is important.
An acid type fertilizer should be used monthly as well.
Any chance you can send me a photo of it?
14.8.10
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia eye damage
I think I'd wait for cooler weather to repot. The plants don't like high heat so may already be stressed, not to mention the shock of moving them from one location to another.
Sincere sympathy on the loss of your mother.
3.8.10
AnswerSubject: Epi bud that has not opened
You ask a very good question. I have never heard of any one person advising the various poison control centers of the problem with euphorbias. It would be a less daunting task for people to contact their own poison control centers if they are aware of euphorbias in their area or are being sold at retail outlets like grocery stores where the sellers usually have no idea what they are selling.
Sorry you had such a bad experience and hope all is well by now.
Euphorbia myrsinites
Plant & Photo - Marina Welham
24.7.10
AnswerBruce
I'm not sure what your question is. A lot of things can affect flowers and/or put them back. Moving the plant, change of temperature, drafts, change of light, etc. Glad you like our web site.
AnswerBruce
As I said yesterday, a lot of things can affect how flowers react. It isn't normal for the flower to take two weeks to open. I'm wondering if it did open when you didn't see it and it is now spent.
If you could send me a photo of the plant I might be able to help you identify it. There are so many look-alikes it would be impossible to know for sure which one it is without seeing it. However it may be a Epiphyllum oxypetalum.
AnswerSubject: Nopalxochia phyllanthoides - success at last
My pleasure. Glad the ID was right.
Just make sure the plant does not get direct sun. Mist the leaves occasionally in warm weather. Water thoroughly whenever the soil is almost dry.
24.7.10
Craig S. - USA
Answer
I feel like a grandmother !! It's good to know my advice was helpful and produced results. The photos are gorgeous. Thanks for sharing your success with this wonderful plant. Please note it looks like an Epi but is actually not an Epi. The plant is called Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. Yes the same stems can flower again next year. One flower per areole is correct. Have a great summer.
17.7.10
Dave P. - USA
Answer
Dave Papayanopulos, USA
I have identified what was my mystery Mammillaria. There is a photo of the plant in CACTI by Paul Starosa (photos) and Vincent Cerutti (text) c 1996. "Mammillaria spinosisima f.'single spine' This curious plant is yet to be fully identified. It is not a botanical species but a cultivar. The seeds came from Mexico but from exactly where is unfortunately not known. The cactus was raised by a German grower on the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. A long process of selection has made it possible to isolate and propagate remarkable individual specimens, such as that shown here."
14.07.10
AnswerSubject: Yellowing of cacti and palm tree fronds
If I sat in front of a drafty window with little sunlight I'd turn yellow too. Whoever gave you growing instructions is in the wrong business. The bulb should be replanted the way it is now. The existing soil line will guide you to the right depth.
Jerry L., USA
I like your answer, Marina, on the Sago palm. They really aren't indoor plants, at least long term indoor plants. And cycads in general have a growth rate all their own, and it varies every year. Some years you might have one flush of leaves, the next year, two flushes, the next year, nothing. For some reason cycads decide to take a year off from growing. Even mine outside for the summer do that. It can be frustrating but that is the nature of those beasts. And while Sago Palms can take some low light, the leaves will eventually turn yellow as the plant acclimates to that light level...it may be too low for many leaves, if any. I grow mine outside in the summer in full sun. The leaves are nice and tight and somewhat compact. I like that look. Indoors I suggest as much sun as possible. A sunny - not drafty - window would be great. And keep slightly, evenly moist. During the winter, a little dryer. Too dry and the leaves will again turn yellow. During the summer I fertilize every few weeks. No fertilizer in the winter. I have a very large, 10-gallon size pot, Sago Palm that over winters in a work shop with no heat during the winter, with temps dipping in the 20s during cold nights. It loses about half the leaves (from the bottom up) during the winter, but rebounds once it is again outside. Talk about HEAVY and SPINES. Once they are large enough you realize how non-user friendly Sago Palms are.
The Sago Palms are easy. They grow faster than people realize with good growing conditions
25.6.10
AnswerSubject: Overzealous pruning of Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Yellowing is usually caused by .... lack of iron, magnesium or other mineral deficiency .. or overwatering or too much calcium in the soil or insufficient light. The latter isn't the problem since the plants are outdoors.
Try feeding the plants with a 20-20-20 fertilizer "with trace elements".
If you water very frequently try watering less.
Test the pH of the soil. A pH meter available at any garden center is not expensive and well worth having.
If your soil is too alkaline that might be your yellowing problem too.
Actually all of these together could be responsible for the discoloring of the plants.
Jerry L., USA
I have seen many "yellow" plants through the southwest on my travels. Sometimes I wonder if it isn't necessarily a nutrient deficiency, but possibly the sun. Too much, too soon, too dry with too much, no - too little acclimatization, too hot of a location, etc
20.6.10
AnswerSubject: Sago palm
The buds could flower but the shock to the plant of having the leaves cut might instead make them drop off. I would mist spray the cuttings every day and hope for the best.
Glad you enjoy our web site.
Let me know what happens to the buds.
20.6.10
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum anguliger seeds
If I sat in front of a drafty window with little sunlight I'd turn yellow too. Whoever gave you growing instructions is in the wrong business. The bulb should be replanted the way it is now. The existing soil line will guide you to the right depth.
20.6.10
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Maybe those reading this will have their own methods and if they do I hope they will add their two cents because it would be interesting to know what others do in this case.
In the meantime what I do is to spread the seed with the coating on to a sheet of paper towelling. Spread it around well and within a day or so the jelly like stuff will dry up along with the seeds and then you can flick off the dried seeds while the jelly like stuff stays stuck to the paper.
Dick H. - Canada
You ask for other members' experiences, so I'll put in my two-bits worth. When I was growing a lot of Echinopsis I often encountered gelatinous seeds. My method was similar to what you describe - split the fruit open and spread the gelatinous seed ball out onto a paper towel. Then leave it to dry for about 24 hours and rub off the seeds with a finger. I think Echinopsis & Epiphyllum (hort) have similar size seeds that lend themselves to finger & thumb work. My memory says that it worked best if I didn't wait too long, since if the jelly got really dry it acted like dried glue and held the seeds to the paper too firmly.
10.6.10
William H. - UK
AnswerWilliam H. - UK
Most people would be pleased to have such a flourishing plant. This species does tend to grow fairly large when growing conditions are right.
Without seeing the roots I can't be 100% positive but if you have three good main stems you can probably split the root ball. Or, as you said, take cuttings which will mean waiting longer for flowers. You can also chop back the three main stems half way but that will still mean annual pruning.
You may be feeding the plant too much or too often or with a fertilizer too high in nitrogen. You should be diluting any standard fertilizer to quarter strength.
28.3.10
Norma C. - Canada
Answer
The curled leaves are the first sign of spider mite which is frequently a problem with this plant, especially for those grown in the home where there is a lot of dry air. You should spray plants with curled leaves with a miticide following directions on the product label. It is helpful to keep a pot of water nearby to give some humidity to the air. And keep topping up the water as it evaporates. This should help keep spider mites at bay.
Pachypodium lamerei needs a well draining, humusy soil. It should only be watered when it is in its leafy state. No water should be given when the plant is resting in its leafless state. Some plants keep their leaves all year long but only if they have heat all year long.
It is important that the plant be grown in full sun for best results.
Water the plant only when it is in leaf, water thoroughly and then allow the plant to almost dry out before watering again. It is not a matter of how often you should water because depending on growing conditions the soil can dry out fairly quickly or over a period of time. When leafless, don't water the plant at all. There is enough moisture in the body of the plant to sustain it until it is time to leaf out again and then you can begin watering again.
3.5.10
Dennis
Answer
I could be wrong but looking at the photo you sent, it seems to me you have a pot of rooted cuttings rather than one plant. This could explain why there are few roots. And may also explain why some of the leaves look old and unhappy. If there are few roots on a cutting that leaf may not be getting enough moisture from the soil.
New shoots are always narrower than the mature leaves simply because they are new shoots. They will fill out as they grow.
You should water the plant when it NEEDS water .. not twice a week. It needs water when the soil has dried out quite a bit. If it is still wet you should not water it.
Goat manure fertilizer at full strength and especially twice a week is way too strong for epiphyllums. It should be watered down to a quarter of the regular strength and a good soaking (feeding) once a month should be enough.
If the plant looks sick you should not feed it at all. Make sure it is in bright light but not direct sun and avoid high heat.
Improving roots is a matter of giving the plant the best growing conditions.
Please read my article here http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
This will give you all the answers on how to grow the plants successfully.
3.5.10
Tricia R.
Answer
This is a Senecio. Possibly Senecio antandroi
28.4.10
AnswerSubject: Cactus Severe Pest Problem
A soil mix should match the moisture requirements of individual plants. Not all Madagascan plants require the same level of moisture.
The main requirement is that the mix must be porous enough to allow both air and water to move freely around the roots.
I recommend that you read the article "Succulent Euphorbias by Fred Dortort Part 2" on this web site where he addresses Madagascan succulents in particular.
http://www.sfsucculent.org/articles/succulenteuphorb2.html
Pumice helps to aerate the soil which is good for the roots of the plant.
Turface holds moisture in the soil and is a soil conditioner. Turface is a good product to replace pumice in a mix.
Coir holds moisture in the soil. It has little or no nutritional value for the plant.It has the same effect on pH as peat which raises the acidity of the soil.
The pH of the soil is equally important as the correct level of moisture retention. An inexpensive pH meter will tell you if your soil has the right pH level for each plant. Please read my article "Suitability of various pH values for plants" at http://www.theamateursdigest.com/phvalues.htm
I invite others to send me your suggestions for potting mixes for these plants. I know there are many who grow Madagascan succulents who have more experience with potting mixes for them than I have. Thanks.
26.4.10
AnswerSubject: Selenicereus anthonyanus
Since the plants are going to new homes it would be safer for the new owners, and possibly their children and/or pets, not to use any pesticides.
I have used beneficial nematodes in my outdoor garden and didn't find they did much good either. Fungus gnats thrive on moist organic matter. If you stop watering the plants, let them dry out completely and leave them that way until you take them to the plant sale, that should kill them off.
15.4.10
AnswerMarc
Cryptocereus anthonyanus is now Selenicereus anthonyanus
You can eat the fruit on your ric rac cactus .. but I'm not so sure you'll appreciate the seeds.
Don't remove the fruit until it has well ripened which could take months. After that there are no special germination techniques other than to keep the seeds moist until seedlings appear and are a couple of inches tall. You can then put them into their own small pots and treat as you would mature plants. It would be a whole lot faster to take cuttings and root them if you want more plants.
There is a difference between Selenicereus and Epiphyllum in that they are two distinct genera in the cactus family. If that's what you meant.
I can't be sure which cactus you have when you mention ric rac because that common name is given to more than one plant.
AnswerMarc
You're welcome. Always glad to help if I can.
Fruit will only mature if the seed has been fertilized. If it is not fertilized the partially developed fruit will fall off.
There is a wide variety of color, surface texture, spines and flavor of epi fruits. On average fruits take about a year to ripen. Some ripen much earlier and some later. When the fruit is ripe the color usually changes to red but sometimes also to yellow. A few varieties remain green. The best way to determine if a fruit is ripe is by feeling it. When it becomes slightly soft it is ripe.
I will expect a photo of the first flower off your first seed grown plant !!
AnswerSubject: Chewed leaves
Did you read my article on epis? I think most questions are answered there.
http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
For example it says:
How do I get seeds from my own plants?
True species come true from seed. Epi hybrids do not. For hybrids, only cuttings will produce a duplicate of the original plant.
To get true seed a flower must be pollinated with pollen from another individual of the same species. If all the plants in your collection came from cuttings of the same plant, which means they are all part of the same individual, there is no point trying to pollinate the flowers.
The procedure is simple. The ripe stigma is liberally dusted with pollen from a freshly opened flower. The trick is to know when the stigma is ripe. Sometimes the stigma is ripe and receptive when petals collapse and it is left sticking out of the faded flower and sometimes it can even be ripe before the buds open. If the pollen 'takes' the ovary remains green and attached to the plant after the rest of the flower fades. If it doesn't take, the entire flower fades and eventually drops off. 19.4.10
AnswerSubject: Sansevieria cylindrica
Any plant will be harmed and stop blooming if enough damage is done to it. Plants suffer from stress just as we do. It would be better to put the plant where your cat can't get at it.
15.4.10
Soozie M. - USA
Answer
This is Sansevieria cylindrica probably a variety called 'patula'
The three stems you have are actually three separate cuttings planted in one pot. The pup would be coming off one of those stems.
I suggest you pot each stem in a separate pot to give them all room to produce new pups. You could remove the small pup but it would be better right now while it is very small to pot the stem next to it along with the pup in its own pot. A pup just an inch tall is kind of small to remove and pot up.
This plant needs bright light but not direct sun. It needs a very well draining potting soil with grit or coarse sand added and feeding monthly with a 20-20-20 fertilizer with trace elements at 1/4 strength recommended on the product label.
I think you found a bargain. Very nice plant and great photo. Thanks for sharing. If I can help further let me know.
15.4.10
AnswerSubject: Agave ID needed please
The following is an item on this subject which we published in our 1998 Special Edition.
Spiralling in euphorbias
Why does it happen?
The reason for spiralling euphorbias has never been found. Many experiments have been made over the years but results of these tests have so far been unsatisfactory. Tests, however, have not been a wasted effort. It was discovered that there is a consistency in plant spiralling. The direction of the upward curve is consistently clockwise, as seen in the thread on a bolt or a wood screw. It can be concluded, therefore, that if a plant could be found with a reverse or counter clockwise spiral, it would be rare indeed.
Another curious thing about spiral stems is that offshoots from a stem of this nature very rarely inherit the winding gyrations of the mother plant. They always revert to the natural straight ribbed stem.
A test made to determine constancy in later generations yielded negative results. Not one spiral seedling was produced from 42 seeds taken from a sharply spiralled Euphorbia fimbriata. This proves conclusively that spirals are not hereditary. This characteristic is an acquired abnormality limited to a plant individually and not transmitted genetically. This behaviour is curious since seeds from cristate forms, which we usually think are associated with spiralled plants, do produce a certain percentage of cristate plants.
It has also been determined that external conditions such as richness of soil, temperature, etc. have nothing to do with this peculiar spiralled growth.
Photo: Euphorbia spiralis (by Andrea Randazzo, Italy) - is from Socotra.
It's growth is candelabra-like and it branches from the base. The plant grows 40-80 cm tall.
11.4.10
Robert S. - Australia
28.3.10
Michelle V. - USA
Answer
This cactus is called the "Fairy Castle Cactus" .. and is also named in some places as Cereus tetragonus and Acanthocereus tetragonus. I think the latter is the more current name.
Thanks for the great photos.
19.3.10
AnswerSubject: Sansevieria ID and care
38F is too cold for most succulent plants. They prefer to be on the cool side in winter at around 50F-55F. The trigger to blooming has more to do with light than temperature. If you read my article it will tell you what to do about light, feeding, etc. http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
4.3.10
Margie M. - USA
Answer
This is not a plant that has not opened its leaves yet. It doesn't have leaves like other sansevierias. What you see are the leaves for that plant.
I do not think it is the same as bacularis . I think from the markings it is more likely Sansevieria cylindrica var patula.
I suspect you have three rooted cuttings in that pot. I think the 4" pot is too small. I'd move the plant into a bigger pot if I were you. You can leave them as is in that bigger pot and as more shoots appear eventually have to put them into an even bigger pot but if you want to share with friends, you can remove the three, separate them and pot them up separately - into a 6 inch pot.
Sansevierias do not like direct sun although weak sun in winter months would be okay. They need very bright light. They will tolerate shade but not too much. Soil should be well draining and allowed to almost dry out between waterings.
Feed every couple of months in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer at half strength (20-20-20). Water much less in winter months and do not feed during that time.
I have found that some of my sansevierias tend to put on some growth and produce shoots in fall and early winter so if your plant starts doing that just prolong the growing season treatment during that time. Plants do what they want to do .. not always what we think they should do.
Let me know if you have further questions.
Additional Comment from Jerry Lehman, USA
I just read the question about the ID and care of the sans in the photo. I think you are correct on the ID. The reason the leaves are "bent" is that they are very commonly sold in small pots, as short (end of the leaf) leaf cuttings and braided. It looks like the braid opened, either by itself as the leaves grew and fattened, or whatever was holding the braid together is no longer there. These braided sans are a dime-a-dozen at box stores, grocery stores, and garden centers. They have taken the place of the "Lucky Bamboo," which, and don't get me started, is not bamboo. That is why you see the "yellow" markings...where the leaves were touching. The markings will turn green over time
7.3.10
Answer
Lithops seeds can be viable for many months depending on how they are stored. Five years, however, sounds a rather long time to expect germination now. All you can do is try to germinate them. You should know within about 10 days if they are still viable.
4.3.10
Answer
Good question. You will get different advice from different people on this. Some say never repot when the plants are growing, only when dormant. Others will say you can re-pot any time. Waiting until the plants are dormant is difficult for people with large collections. How can you re-pot them all at the same time?
I have a very large collection. I re-pot at any time of year. I've been doing that for a great many years and have never had problems.
There are very few exceptions such as for Melocactus. They hate to ever be re-potted so when you do those you have to be ultra careful not to disturb the roots.
One thing I don't do is disturb any plants about to flower or in flower.
Let me know if I can help further relative to specific plants.
When to repot - another opinion - Jerry L. USA
I finally read the latest Digest issue. As always loaded with great tidbits. I think you and I touched on this before, as you did in the digest and here on our web site on the subject of repotting. I prefer to repot while the plants are actively growing. I believe in this as I don't own a greenhouse. The plants are all indoors for the winter, under lights in a spare bedroom for the "non-cold hardy plants," and in the (slightly heated, never below 40F) heated garage for the "cold hardy plants." My idea is that they are in survival mode for the winter. I have not had success in plant recovery from broken roots when they are not actively growing. And, if not watered-in, even after a week or so, the new or additional potting mix settles/shrinks too much. Plus, I can plan on and accommodate larger pot sizes as they come into the house.
4.3.10
Sam S.. - USA
Answer
First of all let me ID your plant. It is Epiphyllum oxypetalum.
Secondly, with regard to those long stringy things .. this is the answer in my article elsewhere on my web site.
Why do some stems put out long stringy things and others do not? Should I cut them off? Those long stringy things are adventitious roots! It is quite natural for many epis to produce these roots. If they appear in large numbers, however, this may signal problems exist such as perhaps the plants may be too moist, too dry or in too much shade. The adventitious roots could be reaching for the moisture, light and even food that the plant is not receiving in sufficient quantities through watering, natural light and fertilizer.
When these adventitious roots appear, you should ask yourself if you are giving the plants enough water and/or fertilizer, if there is enough humidity around the plants and perhaps you should check the soil in the pot for signs of pest infestation which might be damaging the roots. Also, although these plants do better if a little pot bound, it is just as possible to underpot the plants which can also force roots to be produced along the stems.
You seem to have far more runners than might be natural for the plant so I would re-think the growing conditions that might be causing this. In this case I would remove some of them. For one thing if the plant has not been repotted into fresh soil mix for 10 years it is in soil that no longer has any nutrients.
Only you can know if the plant is getting enough light. They do not like full sun but if they have too little light you can see the results .. long, stringy stems (leaves).
I would like to suggest that you use plastic pots instead of clay. Clay is porous and moisture tends to wick out of the soil through the pot which does not happen with plants in plastic pots. Also roots gravitate to the inside of the clay pots and stick there like cement which makes it difficult to repot them without damaging the roots.
If you start again with cuttings it can be several years before you get flowers again. After it has finished flowering, you can unpot it and see how many fairly normal stems can be separated with their own roots .. and repot those into a fresh soil mix. I don't think you need a 12 inch pot. Six inches should be big enough for three or four re-potted stems. Remember epis prefer to be pot bound.
On the other hand since the entire plant is too stringy, cuttings would eventually produce a better shaped plant I think. So try as you may to get me to make the decision !!! it is really up to you which way to go.
Here's an idea. Start new plants from cuttings and leave what's left of the old plant to bloom again the next couple of years so you won't be without flowers .. but if you do that make sure you repot the old plant because it is certainly desperately in need of new soil. You could do some judicious pruning at the same time.
Thanks for sharing great photos with us. Let me know if I can help further
23.2.10
Answer
Sorry. Don't have a picture - just the following description:
Epiphyllum grandilobum Britton & Rose
Synonyms: Phyllocactus grandilobus, Epiphyllum gigas
Very large branches are produced by this plant. They can be 25 centimeters (10 inches) wide, with deeply crenate margins. The flower is also huge, white, and nocturnal. These develop on a curved tube to about 26 centimeters (101/4 inches) wide, the style protruding beyond the stamens with many yellow stigma lobes.
This species is very difficult to flower outside its natural habitat.
Native to the rainforests of Costa Rica, and Panama, as well as the southernmost Caribbean islands (eastward to Trinidad and Tobago). The average monthly temperatures range from 23° to 27° Celsius (73° to 81° Fahrenheit). The rainy season extends from April to December.
E. grandilobum (Web.) Britt. & Rose. 1902. (E. gigas). Costa Rica, Panama. A vigorous vine to 300 feet or more, stems 15-25 cm wide, crenate. Flowers 32-38 cm long, 26-30 cm wide (one of the largest of cactus flowers).
15.2.10
Answer
These cacti don't tend to flower when very young. Patience will be rewarded, however, with spectacular flowers.
15.2.10
AnswerBarry S. - USA
I can't tell you how long it takes an Epi to mature. Much depends on whether it is grown from seed or a cutting or from a small plant and it also depends on many growing conditions. Plants in one of your photos look like they are getting lots of light. In the other they seem in too much shade. Difficult to tell just from pictures though.
Did you read my article on this site on how to grow epis? I think the following two paragraphs answer your particular questions.
My epi won't flower. Why not?
Epis need a period of several weeks at the end of winter when they should only have the same amount of light as light appears outside. These short days trigger flowering in spring for spring blooming species. This poses a problem for plants indoors which receive light from artificial lights in the house. You have to cover the plant at dusk and remove the cover next morning to give the short day effect. Another factor in blooming has to do with pot size. If the pot is too big a plant it will spend its time producing roots to fill the pot at the expense of concentrating on flowering.
Looking at the plants in your photos .. most are planted in pots way too big for the plants. Epis prefer to be root bound .. as mentioned above.
How much light do these plants need?
When sun reaches Epis in their natural environment, it is filtered down to them through the branches and leaves of the trees. They are never subjected to full sun. However, it is interesting to note that plants growing in very dense trees will be found growing high up in the trees where more light is available to them than would be available further down the tree. This tells us that while epis don't want full sun, they nevertheless need very bright light. In fact, if an epi is grown in too much shade, flowering will be poor or the plant may not flower at all. When you see recommendations for growing Epis in the shade, therefore, this does not mean you should put the plants in a dark area under the greenhouse bench.
In the specific case of Epiphyllum oxypetalum, it took about 4 years from small cuttings for my plant to produce flowers.
Answer
You can only tell when roots are pot bound when you unpot the plant and find the roots are tight packed in the pot. When the pot is too big the roots keep growing until they fill the big pot. If we take this plant of yours in the pink pot as an example, for the size of the plant the pot should not be bigger than 5 or 6 inches. Epis do not need all that extra soil.
If an Epiphyllum is in too large a pot roots will eventually (after a very long time) fill the big pot but in the meantime the plant is concentrating on growing roots at the expense of producing flowers.
You should unpot the plant, shake off as much of the old soil as possible and repot it into a five or six inch pot. If the plant has been in that big pot long enough to produce roots that spread out throughout the soil, cut back the root system so that it will now fit a 5 or 6 inch pot with fresh soil mix added.
Probably in a year's time (or two) when you unpot that plant in its now smaller pot, you will see the roots are tight packed against the pot all around. That is what is called pot bound roots. If the roots are really tight in the pot it may then need to be moved to a one size bigger pot. You can if necessary slice off one third of the roots when you repot which will allow you to add some fresh soil mix
26.1.10
Answer
I have heard they have been out of business for quite a while.
1.1.10
Answer
It is Idria columnaris
31.12.09
Answer
Kalanchoes can be propagated by leaf cuttings. K. blossfeldiana often offered for sale by nurseries, is hardly worth propagating since it is hard to bring into bloom in the home and can be bought cheaply full of flower buds each year. They grow and flower in winter when they should be kept in a light, warm position. A cold greenhouse does not suit them.
31.12.09
Answer
This cactus has a tap root which means you need a pot deep enough to accommodate that root. It grows well and flowers freely if put in a sunny position. Be careful not to drown it with water. Let the soil almost dry out before watering again. Seedlings are often grafted but even when grafted the plant is a slow grower.
31.12.09
Answer
Aloe
With regard to the Aloe, you can try taking a cutting. Make the cut close to the base. Let it dry out for a few weeks before potting up. Plant in soil that is at least 50% grit. It can take months to root, so be patient.
Pachycormus
Because this plant is slow growing, although it is a winter grower, extra care is needed not to give it too much water especially in colder weather. It has a tendency to rot off with too much watering.
You could try the same method as for Aloe above or take cuttings and try to root them.
Other than this advice I can't tell you much more.
The combination of thick trunk, papery bark and short, fine pinnate leaves is hard to beat; winter grower; often summer deciduous; in cashew family; full sun; don't over-water, especially in cold weather; slow growing; requires early pinching and pruning to induce branching and trunk-thickening; from Mexico. [Anacardiaceae; Sapindales]
31.12.09
Answer
From what I can see I think it's Aloe bainesii.
27.11.09
17.11.09
Answer
This is a winter grower. It needs moderate warmth in winter and lots of light year round. Water and feed during winter months. In spring and summer when the plant is resting it needs less water and no feeding. Propagation by seeds and cuttings.
17.11.09
Answer
That depends on the cactus. Some need full sun all day long all year long. Others prefer filtered sun all day long all year long. Others will suffer in full sun but still need the brightest light possible.
It should be noted that even cacti that need the strongest sunshine possible will burn if there is not enough ventilation where they are grown.
7.11.09
Answer
There are many possible causes, the chief ones being starvation, iron deficiency or diseased roots.
7.11.09
Answer
Scale insects can be removed by gently scraping them off the plant. Spots due to other causes cannot be removed without damaging the plant
7.11.09
Answer
When it is mature the plant will usually flower in the months of April through September
7.11.09
Answer
Sounds like your plant has outdone itself this year. This particular species does tend to produce many simultaneous blooms. I have not heard of other species which do that but that is not to say there are no others that produce multiple simultaneous flowers.
Epiphyllum oxypetalum occurs widely in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, El Salvador and Costa Rica. The origin of the plant is not known. The name Epiphyllum was first used in 1689. The genus Epiphyllum was described by Haworth in 1812. E. oxypetalum's date of introduction into the USA is not known.
When my plant has finished blooming I always give it a feeding to help it renew the energy spent on flowering.
Pollination of all night blooming flowers is by bats, moths or other night flying insects. Sometimes the flowers last well into the following morning when they can be pollinated by bees and other daytime flying insects.
It is called Nopalillo Criollo, Reina De La Noche
6.11.09
James N. - Canada
Answer
This plant is in the Opuntia family. It is not flowering. That's new growth you see on top. Eventually the 'leaves' will fall off.
Part of the plant looks flat and part looks circular .. which threw me off. I'd rather it be all circular as it would be easier to identify.
Is it possible the growth form is not quite what it should be? Have you been growing it in full sun (which it needs). Because if it was more circular I'd guess it was Austrocylindropuntia subulata. There are different genera in the Opuntia family. Not easy to ID something like that not in flower. If it tends to fall over you may be watering it too much. Hold off water through winter months and keep in a cool place.
I wish I could be more precise.
6.11.09
Answer
This is usually caused by calcareous water. Add a handful of peat and let it soak in 5 gallons of water or add one to two drops of nitric acid (from the drug store) in the water. Use this to water your plants. Alternatively use rain water.
30.9.09
Answer
Your soil may be too rich in nitrogen or too low in phosphatic fertilizer or both. Most plants need a rest during the year (when depends on whether they are spring and summer or winter growers. Once you decide when they will enjoy a rest, make sure the temperature is not so warm that it encourages them to grow instead of to rest.
30.9.09
Answer
There are several reasons this can happen. Plants moved to new locations once buds have formed. Plants sitting in a draft. Temperature goes down too low.
30.9.09
Answer
This is often a sign of ageing and is also a normal characteristic of some species of plants. Sometimes the bottom of plants becomes brown and corky looking (but is not corky) and is the result of water washing up against the plant, water that is brownish from the soil in the pot.
30.9.09
Answer
Let the soil totally dry out and leave it that way for several days. The flies feed on moist organic matter in the soil and if it's dry they won't be interested in staying there.
30.9.09
Craig S. - USA
Answer
Now wasn't that worth the wait? A gorgeous flower and when it is spent you can admire the wonderful photo.
I cannot give you an ID. There are many hundreds of Epiphyllum hybrids and unless you know what was crossed with what, an ID cannot be possible.
Congratulations.
30.9.09
Esmie M. - USA
Answer
Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos. The flowers on this plant do not re-open a second time. I wonder where on the site you saw the comments they do re-open?
I'm happy to hear you find out web site helpful.
26.9.09
Ladislav T. - Slovakia
Answer
Thank you very much for sharing the photo of your cactus. I see a flower bud at the top. I would be very interested to see the flower when it is fully open .. perhaps I could then identify the cactus for you.
24.9.09
Answer
I often say if something works stay with it and if nothing seems wrong don't mess with Mother Nature. However .. that being said, there comes a time when all the nourishment in soil has gone and does nothing for the plant and repotting should be done to keep the plant healthy in the future. Usually with really monster size plants the easiest thing to do when the pot is clay is to break the pot to release the roots. With clay pots it's more difficult even if you break the pot because roots usually gravitate to the inside of the outside of the pot and stick there like glue. So you would have to scape them off the pieces of clay before you repot.
If you decide to let the feeling to repot pass for now .. as you say too much trouble trouble .. make sure you don't miss feeding the plant as it is probably getting no nourishment or very little from the soil now.
Hope this helps.
24.9.09
Answer
I am so sorry you have had such a bad experience with this Euphorbia. I have never heard of reactions as severe as these, or as lasting as these, especially the length of time the fumes from the plant have stayed around to cause problems.
All I can think of to remove any possible residual fumes from the air is to use a portable room size air cleaner. You can move the portables from one room to another. Honeywell has a variety of these at affordable prices including a couple of small ones with permanent filters. For the best advice on what to do about the car, I think explaining the problem to your car dealership would be your best bet.
14.9.09
Answer
You can remove the mother plant any time you think it looks pretty spent. However, there is always a chance the main plant will produce more pups so I leave mine alone until the last possible moment. I have many times been surprised by another pup coming along after I thought the mother plant was a lost cause.
23.8.09
Answer
You cannot graft an epi (cactus) on to a Euphorbia. Sorry. I'd love to see the photo of your Euphorbia.
23.8.09
Answer
They are species of plants that come from South or south-west Africa. They look a little like aloes but have soft, fleshy leaves. Some species have tuberous roots. Flowers are small and mostly yellow.
They are winter growing so much less water should be given in summer months. Some shading from hot sun is recommended. Propagation is by seed or sometimes cuttings.
22.8.09
Answer
For most species the absolute minimum temperature is 50F (10C). However, if you can keep them warmer in winter you will have much happier plants. If growing them warmer means you have to keep them in the house, keep in mind they must have the brightest light possible otherwise they will tend to become drawn and elongated.
22.8.09
Answer
Echeverias not only readily hybridize among themselves but also with Dudleya, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum and Sedum. Such 'promiscuous' plants are always very difficult, if not impossible, to identify. The true species are pretty easy to find on the internet so maybe yours are tricky hybrids. If you can send me photos I'll try to help.
22.8.09
Answer
The species you usually find available in stores is Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This plant is hardly worth trying to propagate since it is hard to bring into bloom again. Most plants of this species usually die after a while as has been your experience. Sorry.
Note: We have an article coming up in our Digest March 1 on the subject of kalanchoes with photos and descriptions of ten other species along with advice on how to grow and propagate them. Unlike K. blossfeldiana, these other species can successfully be kept and flowered year after year.
22.8.09
Answer
It can certainly be confusing about watering winter growers in spring and summer. They all must have water in hot temperatures or - you are right - the roots will die especially when it's very hot. The difference in watering is to water less often than you do your spring and summer growing plants. If you have plants that are highly succulent and worry about them rotting off, occasionally pour some water in the pot saucers and let the soil wick it up. That way you are not saturating all the soil but the soil gets enough water to keep the roots alive.
With regard to agaves. I have quite a number of these and I find they put on most growth and produce most pups in early spring to late spring. I've watched the pups grow slowly during summer months so I assume my big plants also put on 'some' growth during that time too. I water my agaves (thoroughly) as I do all my succulents right through until September and then I don't water them at all until the following early spring. I keep my greenhouse at 50F all winter. I am sure on some cold nights the temperature goes down to 45F. I see no growth at all during winter months at that temperature.
My large Aeonium does nothing all summer. The rosettes close up entirely during this time. I water it thoroughly about once a month in spring and summer. Depending on hot hot it is I may only water it once in two months. More in fall and winter. Lithops I give a little water about once every two weeks in spring and summer. I grow them in almost pure grit so the water that flows into the grit doesn't last long enough to rot the plants but is enough to keep the roots alive. I no longer have 'baby toes' (Frithia) (also the common name for Fenestraria) now or Faucaria but when I did have them I used the water in the pot saucer method all summer and watered them well in fall and winter.
As you already know, winter growers have to have some heat in winter months. That is not easy or inexpensive when you have them in a greenhouse as I do. I do find 50F is about ideal because after all when there are sunny days the greenhouse warms up quite a bit. Often in nature the plants do face some chilly nights. They are hardier than we sometimes think they are.
One last thought. Over many years (I refuse to say how many and date myself) .. I've tried growing cacti and succulents in both plastic and clay pots. I decided plastic was the way to go because the soil doesn't dry out as fast as it does in clay pots which are highly porous. Heat entering the clay can burn the roots. Since the roots in clay pots navigate themselves to the insides of the clay pot and stick there, the heat entering the clay pot burns them quickly. And .. when you come to repot you have the problem of breaking all those roots stuck to the inside of the clay pots. I have a shed full of clay pots and would not use them if you paid me.
I hope this helps. Let me now if you have other specific questions I haven't covered.
21.8.09
15.8.09
Gayle M. - Canada
Answer
Nice to hear from you and thank you letting me know you enjoy our on line Digest. Much more coming as issues build for our next Volume starting September 1st. The cactus with the flower you didn't get to see is, I believe, Monvillea spegazzinii. It is listed in my most current reference The Cactus Family as Cereus spegazzinii. The flower is creamy white, externally pale pink or reddish about 13 cm long. This cactus is from Paraguay.
26.7.09
Lois E. - USA
Answer
I'm happy you found our web site useful., Lois. Sorry but some of your photos didn't come out too well but those that did I'm showing here for all to enjoy. You seem to be doing everything right. As for additional advice, an alcohol and water spray is to kill bugs, not scab. Removing the affected leaves (stems) as you did was the right way to go. About rotating the plant, once flower buds form the plant should never be moved because doing that risks the buds dropping off.
26.7.09
Jürgen & Rosi L. - Australia
Answer
People often assume no sun means shade. That is not true. All plants need the brightest light possible. Those that don't like full sun also need the brightest light possible while being kept away from direct sunshine. The same plants will tolerate some sun in winter months when sunshine is far weaker than it is in spring and summer months.
9.7.09
Answer
Assuming they are mature enough to flower:
Leuchtenbergia - July, August, September
Lophophora - April through September
Coryphantha - July, August, September
Keep in mind what plants are supposed to do is not always what they decide to do. Growing conditions can affect many changes in plant growth and flowering.
9.7.09
Answer
Thank you for sharing your experience with us. There are some people who discount the dangers of euphorbias and your story is just one more proof of how careful we have to be around these plants. Thank goodness you had glasses on which avoided any of the white sap getting in your eyes.
Here's hoping your doctor can suggest something that will clear up the rash sooner than later.
29.6.09
Yvonne M. - USA
Answer
This looks like the flower of Disocactus phyllanthoides - formerly Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. It is said this plant first flowered in the garden of Château de Malmaison, belonging to the late Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais which would explain some of the popular names such as German Empress, Deutsche Kaiserin, Giant Empress, Drottningkaktus (Swedish for Queen's Cactus). This story could be a myth, however.
This cactus was called Nopalxochitl by the Aztecs with explains the former generic name Nopalxochia.
The soil should be on the acid side and the plant be given regular water and doses of fertilizer in summer. Best kept relatively cool and dry in winter, 10-15°C (50-59°F). Plants can flower more than once a year but main flowering time is spring.
Repot into fresh soil every couple of years. Some shade in spring and summer should be given to protect from direct sun. Sunshine in winter when the sun is not as strong is okay.
Nice photos, Yvonne. Thanks for sharing.
23.6.09
Answer
It's very difficult for me to know if something is wrong without being able to see the problem in this case. It may not even be a problem. Sometimes in watering the base of a plant gets splashed with a little dust or soil from the soil and that can discolor the base of the plant. If it's a matter of rot beginning then the base will be soft to the touch.
With regard to the pot, this plant has what we call a taproot. A taproot is a somewhat straight tapering root that grows vertically downward. It forms a center from which other roots sprout sideways. Plants with a taproot need a pot that is deeper than wider to give that taproot space to grow. I think that is more important than the color of the pot.
All astrophytums need a sunny situation and a prolonged period being dry at lower temperatures in winter if they are to be at their best during the summer and produce a good show of flowers.
Great care should be taken not to over water them because of their long, fleshy taproot which will rot if the soil remains wet for too long a time.
If you could take a photo of the base of the plant so I could see what it looks like I might be able to help further.
7.6.09
Answer
I'm not sure if you plan to include some cacti in your collection as well as some of the "other" succulents. If you include cacti you could try Rebutia, Gymnocalycium, Epiphyllums and hybrids. In the other succulents Haworthia, Gasteria and Aloe do well in bright light but not full sun. Succulents not wanting full sun nevertheless need very bright light.
3.6.09
Answer
I am pleased that you are pleased. Sorry to say I have no back issues available. Once sold out they were not printed again. The cost to do that and the increasing cost of postage just did not make it feasible.
3.6.09
Update
As mentioned below, the morning after contact with the donkey tail
euphorbia - red welts on the side of my face, tender, rough prickly
skin, though not stinging like nettles.
Day 2 better, welts died down, skin not as prickly.
Day 3 more improvement, still patchy red, but skin feel more normal.
Much better.
I never put a thing on it, no cortisone cream nor ice....
Good thing I didn't rub my eyes with my hand!
Answer
I'm so sorry that happened to you. Hopefully the rash will settle and go away soon.
Let me know how you make out will you? It will be interesting to know. Very happy we had the information you wanted.
2.6.09
Linda O - USA
Answer
Epis prefer to be pot bound. Why do you think they need repotting? Can you send me a photo?
Maybe they are not flowering for other reasons. You can find those reasons in the article I have on this web site. Did you see it?
You can really repot them any time if you don't disturb the roots too much. You can put them all in one pot but you may be sorry later. They look much better allowed to grow on their own to their own natural shape.
I'm afraid your plants are in very bad condition and that's why they don't flower. They look like they have burned up/dried out in sunshine. These plants should never be put in direct sun.
They should be repotted every two or three years at the most into fresh soil mix. All plants need food and soil that old has nothing left in it to feed the plants. I think at this point all you can do it take cuttings of any 'green' stems, let the cut end dry up and callous over and pot up and hope they root .. to start new plants.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sun. Mist them until they root. Then read my article on Orchid Cacti and that will explain how to take care of them after that.
Good luck.
2.6.09
Answer
Bright shade is not enough light consequently the plant is stretching out as it grows, looking for more light. It is called etiolation. The fact that both epis are doing the same thing rather confirms that must be the problem
27.5.09
Answer
I never feel you are bugging me.
You can start seeds hydroponically .. BUT .. plants that start growing hydroponically and are then put into soil do not do as well as those started in soil and left there to grow on. The seedlings should be a good size before moving to individual pots. Most plants that get used to one environment prefer not to be moved to another environment, especially when they are delicate seedlings.
Lack of proper air circulation is the most frequent reason for fungus forming. When I grow from seeds, the minute they germinate I leave them in the air without a cover. Sometimes that's tricky if the seeds don't all germinate all at once but it certainly helps prevent many problems including damping off.
For seeds with hard coats, to get them to germinate faster, freeze them for 24 hours to help break down the hard coat and let moisture in.
Let me know if I can help further.
21.5.09
Priscilla P. - USA
Answer
Thanks for the nice comments.
I have the impression from the photos you sent that while the plant is healthy and blooming right now, it could do with more light. It is quite far from the windows and the stems appear to be shaded quite a bit. Insufficient light might be the reason why new skinny growth is appearing at the end of some stems.
New growth can also start at the ends of stems that have had their growing point broken by even the slightest injury such as chopping off a flower.
21.5.09
Answer
Just in case you are searching elsewhere for information, you might have better luck with the right spelling of the species name .. which should be "integerrima".
This plant normally has a rest in winter months and will go dormant dropping its leaves. It's kind of late for this to be happening now but if you had them shipped to you by mail, sometimes when plants go through a period of being in a dark box while being shipped by mail .. this period of darkness can trigger dormancy at any time.
There could be other reasons too such as the plants were not healthy to begin with. Assuming you bought them from a reputable person/dealer and the plants have just gone dormant again, there is no way to tell when they will come back into leaf. Keep them separate from the others, in a bright place and hold off watering until you see signs of life.
Glad you find our web site helpful and I look forward to having you share much more information in our on line Digest issues.
Jerry Lehmann, USA
I just read the question about Jatropha integerrima. I have had that plant in the past, and we use it for work as a disposable summer seasonal color plant. It does great in our heat, sun and humidity. It is a very profuse flowering plant over the summer. However, the few times I tried to over winter it indoors...it just craps out. Dead by spring. However, my huge clump of J. multifida just loses leaves. Looks like a pot-o-sticks by mid winter, and stays that way until it goes outside in the spring. I think J. integerrima is not as "succulent" as people are lead to believe.
14.5.09
Answer
Sansevieria was one of the plants included in a 2-year experiment performed by NASA to study a plant's ability to reduce air pollution. They found that certain tropical plants, commonly used as houseplants, were quite effective in removing formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethane from the air and replacing it with breathable oxygen. Related information may be found at: http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/ssctrs.ssc.nasa.gov/foliage_air/foliage_ai r.pdf
The Sansevieria was voted the Office Plant of the Year 2008 by the Dutch National Health Institute NIGZ, TNO Quality of Life and Applied Plant and Environment Research PPO. The panel of experts judged that "not only is the Sansevieria air purifying, but also nearly indestructible."
Research has shown that Sansevieria and can absorb more than 80% of the interior of harmful gases, Research conducted by Wolverton Environmental Services, Inc. and supported by the Plants for Clean Air Council in Mitchellville, Maryland, continues to expand on the research begun at NASA. Specifically, they are trying to understand how plants clean and revitalize the air and how to use this knowledge to improve indoor air quality.
I hope this is helpful.
13.5.09
Answer
Yes, a bromeliad that produces pups will begin to deteriorate and eventually die. Once the pups are a good size you can simply cut out the mother plant when it doesn't look very nice any more.
Most bromeliads produce pups only after flowering but as I've seen in my own collection, many also produce pups without having flowered.
Part of my bromeliad collection
Plants & Photo: Marina Welham
3.5.09
Roman B. - USA
Answer
Great photo. Thank you.
This is NOT an Orchid Cactus (Epiphyllum). It is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (earlier also called Selenicereus anthonyanus).
It is a cactus species native to southern Mexico. Common names are: Fish Bone Cactus, Rick Rack Cactus, Zig-zag cactus.
28.4.09
Coralie - USA
Hi there. I have found your web site by web surfing and would like to share a beautiful photo of one of my epis. I am certain that it is 'showboat'. This is the first time it has flowered for about 3 yrs and am looking forward to its next lot of flowers.
19.4.09
Answer
Thanks for the nice compliment.
The naming of a cultivar should conform to the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (the ICNCP, commonly known as the Cultivated Plant Code). http://www.ishs.org/sci/icracpco.htm
Information on legal restrictions is available in this PDF file on line: http://www.fao.org/Legal/Prs-OL/lpo31.pdf
14.4.09
Marina - Canada
Plant & Photo: Jerry Dowding, Canada
If anyone can help identify this Ferocactus, I would be extremely grateful.
Please reply to: amdigest@islandnet.com
8.4.09
Ed. Comment:
Marina:
This was his reply.
And this is what I suggested to him:
Bob H. - USA
Epi Expert!
Can you help me identify this plant I picked out of someone's trash today? I suspect an epi, maybe an epi seance but I don't know for sure as I've not seen a flower.
The stems are old and quite woody and it's quite root bound. How would you recommend I procede? I NEVER toss a plant so that's not an option.
Thanks very much
Answer
I'm not an Epi Expert!! Just an experienced hobbyist. It is impossible to ID the plant without seeing the flower and even then, because there are so many hybrids, an ID would have to be just a guess. It is, however, an Epiphyllum (true species) or Epi hybrid. On the plus side, half the fun of growing it is the anticipation of what the flowers will look like!
The plant looks healthy enough. The woody stems don't look too bad. Probably the result of age. And they don't ruin the look of the plant so I wouldn't worry about them. If you think the plant would look better by removing a few of the stems, you can do that too.
Rootbound is good because these plants prefer to be rootbound but it might have been in the same soil for years so I would suggest you re-pot it into a fresh soil mix. I would slice off about 1/3 of the roots when you do this, loosen and shake off as much of the old soil as you can from the rest of the roots and pot into a fresh mix. Do not use a bigger pot.
If you slice off some roots, don't water the plant for a week or two to give the injured roots chance to heal.
For instructions on care please read my article here: http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
If you run into a specific problem, let me know and I'll try to help further.
Nice 'find', Bob.
1.4.09
Subject: Inherited epi - what does it need?
Angie - USA
I recently inherited this plant from my grandmother and I'm not sure
what it needs. It is in a plastic nursery pot inside the bucket and
the soil feels quite sandy. I have read over your site and it seems
that I need to trim out the dead stems, and repot in a smaller pot
with a different mixture. The plant has some mealy bugs and has never
bloomed to my knowledge, except for once many, many years ago. The
plant is very old and I would hate to do too much to it at once. The
leaves are a little withery as well. Could you advise me? I would
hate to lose it because of the sentiment attached.
Thank you for your time.
Answer
If this was my plant I'd do something drastic. I'd take cuttings and start new plants. Believe it or not if you do that you will probably get flowers next year. I planted cuttings of all my epis last year and every one has a flower bud on it right now. However, my plants get total light from morning to night in a bright greenhouse. This high light (no direct sun) is important for healthy plants that will flower and not produce more stems than leaves. Actually the leaves are more correctly called stems but I use leaves here to differentiate from the hard stems I see.
Looking at your photos I can't imagine how you could prune the plant and end up with a nice looking plant. There are just too many old 'stems' throughout.
A benefit to taking cuttings and starting anew is that you can get rid of the mealy bugs which, after all this time, are probably down in the roots too. You'd take the cuttings and wash them off well. You can either pot them individually and let them develop into mature plants or you can pot them three or four in a pot around the edge of the pot. A 4 in. pot for each cutting is big enough. A 5" pot for several would be adequate. Using fresh soil mix will mean you start out with clean soil and no bugs. Believe me it is less work to do that than try to eradicate a mealy bug problem which probably has been of long standing.
Withery leaves could be caused by insufficient watering .. or if enough watering the roots are not taking up the moisture which could be due to pests in the soil at the roots. Here again, taking cuttings will allow you to select the best leaves to root and toss out the rest (where they won't be able to contaminate any other plants or cuttings).
From what I see in your photos the plant needs more light. To have one side of the plant at the window and the other in the darker room .. creates a lack of light situation.
If you will read my article on Orchid Cacti it will tell you what soil you need, how to water, light requirements, fertilizer etc. If you follow those directions your plant (or cuttings) will flower next year.
So long as you have some healthy leaves on the plant and can take cuttings you will never lose the plant. If you let it go with the bugs and the withering .. you could lose it down the road.
Good luck.
30.3.09
Subject: Epis and sun/shade
Sheila - USA
I found your site researching light requirements. Everyone in my family has an epi-all cuttings from the "mother plant" and courtesy of my brother. I have always hung mine at the very edge of a covered patio, as soon as the last frost was over, in the sun. One year I lost half of my plant to a surprise early frost. This year they are hung way back next to the house, and already budding, much to my surprise, as they have more shade. I may leave them where they are and see how they do without direct sun. Thanks for all of the advice and beautiful photos. Please fee free to post my photos if you wish.
Answer
Thanks for the nice photos. In one of them I notice some of the leaves on your plant have turned quite yellow. This is one indication the plant does not enjoy full sun.
23.3.09
Subject: Support for Night Blooming Cereus
Linda M. - USA
In the past, I have moved my Night Blooming Cereus from outside under a live oak tree in summer to inside the dining room in the winter. We have now decided that it is so large that it must stay outside and, hopefully, we will be able to construct some sort of safe winter environment for it. We live in San Antonio, TX.
The problem is how to support it and protect it from summer winds and breezes in an as attractive manner as possible. It is clearly visible from both the patio and the dining room and quite a conversation piece. Do you have any pictures or suggestions for this construction? So far, all my ideas seem unsatisfactory for one reason or another. Thank you.
Answer
Yes it is Epiphylum oxypetalum.
Sorry to tell you but leaving it outdoors in winter is very risky unless it is in greenhouse where you can add heat if you have a run of cold weather. Epis are tropical plants which need warmth year round. The best minimum winter temperature would be around 50-55F. While the plant should never be allowed to totally dry out, if it is cold as well as wet this will invite rot to set in.
You may have to prune the plant back to reasonable size so you can bring it in for winter months. You would have enough nice cuttings to create a whole new plant. It's fun to have such a big plant but keep in mind if the plant puts all its strength into growing more and more new stems (leaves), it might not produce as many flowers.
Breezes won't harm the plant in warm weather but very windy areas should be avoided.
4.3.09
Subject: Cats!!
Gerie G. - USA
Several years ago I moved from Santa Barbara, Calif. (where I specialized in Epis. and "antique" roses & terriers -NO house plants) to Humboldt Co. in northern Calif. I am in an apartment, with good light (several hours of direct sun) in the winter & bright (no direct sunlight) in the summer. We are allowed cats-no dogs & except for three large containers, no gardening outside. So, I have my first cat. Until the Bengal arrived, I was beginning to enjoy the novelty of house plants! However, after consulting the "toxic-to-cats" list from Davis University, I had to give up 75% of them. There are several lists of "toxic to animals" available but nowhere are Epis listed. Do you or your "followers" have any info regarding this question? Also, am I in a state of delusion believing in the successful possibility of flowering Epis inside?
Also, I wish to say that after nearly 40 years of gardening & spending several thousand dollars (really!) on magazine subscriptions & garden/gardening books, I have never seen anything to match your website; so generous, so dense & complete!!! Bravo!
Namaste, Gerie G.
Answer
Epis themselves are not toxic to animals. However, any plant treated with an insecticide (including systemics) may be toxic to animals even if that plant is listed somewhere as being not toxic. The same applies to the soil in which plants are planted. A cat or bird or dog might become curious about the soil/grit, etc. and nose or paw around in it. If you can be sure your plant has not been pesticide treated .. then you have nothing to worry about. It's best to stay away from pesticides in any event because even if you spray the stems you could kill the plant.
You should be able to flower your plant in the house providing there is enough light because while epis don't like direct sun they need as much bright light as they can get. Epis can flower at different times of the year but most bloom in spring. Most hybrids bloom anywhere from about the end of February through April, May and June. A few hybrids bloom later than that as do the true Epiphyllum species. The lengthening days in spring encourage growth and flowering so don't close the blinds in the house until the daylight outside has gone and hopefully you are up in the morning early enough to open the blinds the moment daylight sets in. Or just leave the blind open at the window near where the plant is and let nature handle the rest.
If you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or it may suffer bud drop.
I look forward to a photo of your flowering plant!
As for your wonderful comments about our web site .. thank you for making my day. I'll try not to let my head swell up too much!!!
You will find more questions and answers on Epis (Orchid Cacti) in the article on the subject on this web site .. or you can ask me questions any time and I'll try to help.
You will have noticed the interesting salutation at the end of the last question and answer-"Namaste". The story behind it is even more interesting so I thought I'd share it with you. Wikipedia states:
Namasté, Namaskar or Namaskaram is a common spoken greeting or salutation in the Indian subcontinent. Taken literally, it means "I bow to you". The word is derived from Sanskrit (namas): to bow, obeisance, reverential salutation, and (te): "to you".[1] Namaskar is considered a slightly more formal version than namasté but both express deep respect. It is commonly used in India and Nepal by Hindus, Jains and Buddhists, and many continue to use this outside the Indian subcontinent.
When spoken to another person, it is commonly accompanied by a slight bow made with hands pressed together, palms touching and fingers pointed upwards, in front of the chest. The gesture can also be performed wordlessly and carry the same meaning.
In Indian and Nepali culture, the word is spoken at the beginning of written or verbal communication. However, upon departure the only the wordless hands-folded gesture is made.
In yoga, namasté is said to mean "The light in me honors the light in you," as spoken by both the yoga instructor and yoga students.
Subject: EPI advice please
Sonia C. - Canada
I have a beautiful epi plant that blooms with hundreds of flowers in
the spring. I just discovered mealy bugs which I used alcohol to get
rid of individually. Started reading your site and realized that the
spots must also be a problem. I've cut back the plant but there are
too many to just cut off. I realized that they can be picked off with
my naills but it's a bit daunting due to the size of the plant. I have
it in a east south and west facing loft window - there really isn't a
better spot due to the size. I water every ten days. It is very root
bound but just added a top layer of new soil. Do you have any thoughts
about what I may be dealing with. Thankyou so much for your time.
Answer
It looks to me like a scale problem. Try the alcohol and sponge method mentioned in the earlier question and my answer on scale.
For mealy bugs .. if they are mealy bugs .. you can also spray them with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water also as mentioned in my earlier answer on the same subject.
You seem to be doing everything right. We all face pest problems sooner or later. Maybe checking the plant more frequently would turn these up before they have a chance to spread.
Root bound is good. This plant prefers to be root bound.
16.2.09
Subject: Variegated Agave propagation
Jerry L. - USA
What do you know about propagating agaves or "Quadricolor" from leaf cuttings? Last summer when I wrote you asking about the correct name of "Quadricolor," I was in the process of repotting my two plants. I took off several older leaves and reset the plants. I propagated all the old leaves as leaf cuttings, and all died except one. And since then, it hasn't done anything except sit there. I haven't checked for roots.
Answer
According to all my information sources .. variegated agaves cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings. The plants will, however, produce variegated offsets.
If anyone knows of any information that would dispute this .. I'd love to hear from you. And what about agaves that are not variegated? Once again my references say they too cannot be propagated from cuttings yet I see on the internet some say they can be propagated in that way.
12.2.09
Subject: EPI advice please
Craig S. - USA
I finally got the courage to prune my epi as you suggested and now have a few more questions. I started by removing the
stems which I found what I believe is scale &the brownish bumps on the underside of the stems. Have I identified this correctly?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
Good idea to get rid of the stems with the scale as you were pruning.
Yes, it looks like scale to me.
What causes the scale..soil conditions, external environment, growing conditions, cold winter environment? I tried scraping the bump off with my finger nail on a removed stem and it looked like it would leave a bruise.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea. Different types of scale are attracted to different plants. It doesn't have anything to do with environment as far as I know. One possibility .. you might have brought them in on another plant? Removing scale always leaves a mark. You can use a soft sponge soaked in alcohol to rub them off which would cause less damage than your fingernail.
Your article says scale can be treated with insecticidal soap or sprayed with a water/isopropyl alcohol mixture.
You suggest a couple of tablespoons of isopropyl alcohol with water & 2 tablespoons mixed with how much water?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A regular spray bottle holds around 20 ounches (568 ml). You could fill this with water and add 2-4 tablespoons of alcohol. I'd start with 4 since you seem to have a bit of an infestation.
Do you spray the entire plant top and bottom surfaces with a fine spray or soaking spray until dripping?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A fine spray top and bottom of leaves is fine. I'd water a little into the soil as well.
Which method do you suggest I start with?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I'd try the alcohol/water treatment first. The insecticidal soap is more work since it has to be rinsed off after a couple of days. Sticky you know.
I also found a critter that was chewing holes in a few stems &..black bug (mealy bug?) in a web directly under a leaf he was working on.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea what this is cause I can't see it. Mealy bugs are white. This may be spider mite but usually you can't see those without a magnifying glass. They do, however, chew pieces out of plants.
My last question/concern&you can see from the pictures how much material I removed from the plant. I think that I removed most if not all of the scale, but I stopped pruning because of concern of shocking the plant. Did I prune too much? Would you still recommend further pruning to open up the plant more?
I hope that the next pictures I send you are of blooming.
Answer
It is not wise to prune more than 1/3 of the plant at a time to keep shock to a minimum. I think you pruned it enough for now.
10.2.09
Subject: Aeonium leaf drop
Ann L. - USA
I have a problem with my Aeonium plant. All the bottom leaves keep drying up and falling off. Makes a mess everywhere.
Answer
This leaf drop is natural. The dead leaves do make a bit of a mess but if your plant ever flowers, I think you will be glad to tolerate a little clean-up now and again. Try putting your plant, pot and all, into a container bigger than the pot and the dead leaves will fall into it and clean-up is then minimal. All you have to do is empty out the container occasionally.
3.2.09
Subject: The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson
Vickie H.. - USA
For serious cactus people, I noticed that Amazon has The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson (hard cover) at much lower prices than I've seen before. Shipping may be included. For pricing and details click here:
Amazon Books - UK
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Amazon Books - USA
30.1.09
Subject: Alluaudia ascendens - rooting cuttings
Vickie H.. - USA
I have owned (or rather, HAD) a beautiful specimen Alluaudia Adceudens for about five happy years. I bought it when it was a 6" baby (at a Strybing Arboretum plant sale), and grew to a glorious and robust 3'. I kept it outside in bright (not direct) sun all spring and summer. Summer temps would exceed 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit for weeks at a time, and my plant thrived. For winter, my practice was to bring it inside when night temperatures approached the low 50sF. I always kept it in my large and airy, fairly dim, but not very humid, bathroom over the winter.
I thought, this year I will be nicer to my friend, and put it in my warmer, sunnier front bedroom for the winter. As I was doing this, I noticed with alarm that the top half inch had shriveled. This observation assured me that I was making a good move by providing a more comfortable situation. I carefully pruned off the dead portion, noting that there was healthy green tissue below the cut. Alas! A few weeks later, the lower portion near, but not in, the soil seemed to be collapsing!
I fear that I have only one choice: try to salvage what appears to be a healthy mid-section. May I, with any hope, treat it as cacti with a similar symptoms? Meaning, treat the cut end with rooting hormone, expose to air for a few days, then attempt to root?
Any suggestions? Should I give up now, and purchase a new one to try to soothe my loss?
Thanks!
Answer
Yes you can treat it as a cutting as you describe and try to root it. It may take a while so be patient. On the other hand, since there is collapse top and near bottom of the main stem, it could be the middle portion has also been affected but just not to the point where you can see the damage. If that is so I'm afraid the plant may be a gonner.
It sounds to me like the plant has had too much moisture .. your bathroom is probably a lot more humid than you realize or there is more humidity than the plant enjoys having. Fairly dim light over winter may have added to the problem.
30.1.09
Subject: EPI leaf curl
Craig S. - USA
I am a novice at EPI s&&
Is there a reason that many of the leaves on my epi have a curl to them? The curl shown in the pictures developed while it was outside this summer
The attached pictures were taken yesterday 1/28/09 in the garage&..I live in Portland, Oregon
I have had the plant for 3 years&the first 2 years it was indoors 100% of the time. It seem to grow well but on the thin and spindly side. Last year I repotted to a larger pot with fresh soil and placed outside in June hanging under the eave, where it remained until early November.
At that time I moved it into the garage to avoid light frosts at night. The plant really took off with lots of new growth, much larger and thicker leaves and good bright color. I don t know if it was the repotting or being outside that made such a difference&probably both.
I fertilized with a 10-10-10 once a month while it was outside. I have only watered it lightly once a month since moving it into the garage.
It does not get below 40 degrees in the garage and it is getting about 10 hours of florescent light each day&..no windows in the garage.
The plant has not yet bloomed&.I am hoping it will this year since wintering in the cooler, darker environment.
The lighter yellow on the leaves is from the camera flash&.the leaves are a consistent green.
When should the buds start showing so that I can be watching for them? I have read that you should not move the plant once the plant starts setting buds?
What causes the main leaf to form many offset leaves? Is this good or bad for blooming? Should they be cut off and to what effect?
Any comments as to overall health of the plant and suggestions to help promote blooming?
I appreciate you time and efforts and am looking forward to your responses.
Thank you,
Answer
Craig
That's some gorgeous plant you have there.
With regard to the curling of the leaves .. ruling out that the white patches are a camera problem and not on the leaves themselves which might indicate powdery mildew .. or pests .. all I can think of is that the curling leaves, as you will notice, are all on the same side of the plant and all the curlers face the same direction. When it was outside under the eave did that side of the plant get less light than the other? Was it facing against the house while the opposite side faced away from the house where there was more light? They might have been changing shape in the process of reaching out for more light. That is a process called etiolation. The same thing can happen to a plant under fluorescent lights if all parts of the plant are not getting an equal amount of light or a sufficient amount of light.
You mention it now has a cooler, darker environment. Without seeing it and how much light it is actually receiving I can't say if lack of light is the problem. However, epis do need the brightest light possible year round.
It seems late to bring the plant indoors in November. If the temp outside is below 50F, preferably 55F or even 60F, since Epis are tropical plants, they do not take kindly to less than warm temperatures. I wager in the garage "at not below 40F" your epi is not a happy camper. Resulting troubles do not always show up immediately with succulents.
I can't tell you when your plant will bloom. Different epis bloom at different times but most bloom in spring.
All your questions about blooming, watering, fertilizing, pruning (and special soil requirements) are answered in my article on this web site Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
Your plant look happy and healthy but I think it is far too dense. I would do some judicial pruning to open it up some. You could remove those 'leaves' on 'leaves'. All I can think about those is that the plant has had too much nitrogen which is also why your plant has become so luscious and dense with all those overlapping 'leaves'. If it does flower there won't be enough space for them to develop.
Yes, once you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or buds may drop off.
Three important things about getting your plant to bloom (also in my article) is to provide several weeks of short days before spring begins. Do not over-pot the plant. It prefers to be pot bound. And provide a soil mix that has an acid reaction.
Do read my above mentioned article and if you have any other questions, let me know.
WOW....thanks for the quick response. I will go back and read your article on your website more thoroughly and check to see when and how to prune (thin).
The curl did develop last summer......one side was towards the house and I did not rotate the plant much....I will this year.
Thanks again for your advice.
30.1.09
Subject: Cold hardy cacti in planters
Jerry L. - USA
Please suggest a long-term potting mix suitable for cold-hardy cacti that are left outdoors all year in planters. Thank you.
Answer
I recommend this page on the Brooklyn Botanic Garden web site .. on growing cold hardy cacti including those in planters.
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/plants/handbooks/cacti/hardycacti.html
30.1.09
Subject: Is it a Hoya?
Tony M. - UK
I was given a small plant about 4 inches high about 35 - 40 years ago. I didn`t know then what it was but it grew and grew. Over the years my plant has had upwards of 75 - 100 blooms at a time which you can imagine look beautiful. I am sure it is indestructible as it weathers below zero temperatures in my conservatory in the winter to 120 degrees F or more in the summer months when the sun is on the glass I have hacked it with very sharp scissors, had it turn upside down when dropped on the floor and it has even suffered severe rain, wind and whatever the weather cares to throw at it when I put it outside during June to September. The only downside to this gorgeous plant is, I can`t put it in my house as the honey-type sap is so sticky, but this is my only complaint. I can`t remember how many cuttings I have taken from it, but I do know that the people I have given the cuttings to don`t have such a beautiful display as my plant. The only help I have received on how to look after it was from someone who knows little about it, but he did say water well in the winter and not so much in the summer. In other words water the other way round from how you would look after any other plant.
Answer
I would love to see a photo of your plant because I suspect it is not an orchid cactus but rather it may be a Hoya. The former does not drip sticky sap but hoyas do. I found that out the hard way. Many years ago my first Hoya was hung over a very expensive antique table. After a couple of weeks of drip, drip, drip, I no longer owned an expensive antique table. What a mess!
The conversation we were having here about when to water was mainly about plants that are spring and summer growing and which we have to keep in a cold location during winter months (cold greenhouse, cold garage, etc.). The same plants if grown in a warm house all through winter (some houses are kept very warm) should have a little water now and again because indoor heat can dry up the plant and the roots far worse than plants left dry in a cool environment.
Plants which normally grow in winter and rest in summer require a different watering schedule. If a plant grows in winter, it needs water and it needs some warmth during those months. Hoyas are not winter growers although they enjoy a little water in winter now and again providing some warmth can be provided. They grow and flower some time during the period spring through to fall. They tolerate a wide range of different temperatures from very cool to very hot. Orchid cacti would cook in your greenhouse at 120F.
In general hoyas prefer a minimum winter temperature of 45F but will tolerate cooler temps if kept dry. Too cold for too long and some leaf loss can occur.
Another reason I think you have a Hoya and not an orchid cactus is because orchid cactus do not like full sun. You say your plant does enjoy the sunshine.
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Hank C. - USA
I have been subscribing to that Digest for years. It has information you just won't find anywhere else, particularly on caudiciforms
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Jim J. - UK
I would like to subscribe to your Digest but I am only interested in caudiciforms.
Answer
There is information in every issue on caudiciforms but obviously the issues are not devoted solely to one type of plants. I guess it's a matter of you deciding if the low cost of a subscription ($15.00) is worth getting that information as well as the rest.
26.1.09
Subject: Winter watering
Jerry L. - USA
My garage is cold but doesn't freeze. I overwinter many plants in there. They, too, shrivel as mentioned by Arlene W. But I water my plants usually about twice during the winter. It may depend on where she is located, but some water may be beneficial to prevent too much desiccation. What do you think?
Answer
Jerry
This is a very tricky subject. Your point about preventing too much desiccation is well taken. And you are right that a lot depends on growing conditions of the plants in various locations. Since you are an experienced grower you know how to judge if you will give the plants a little water in winter but for the less experienced person I feel it is safer to advise them to just leave the plants dry until early spring. There is the risk of some desiccation (roots dying) but those roots will regenerate quickly in the next warm growing season. It is comforting to know that while the plants are shrivelling they are not growing but are having a rest. Many believe that rest is important to encourage flowering the following growing season.
I have never over-wintered cacti in a garage but I would think the light there for several months would be way less than the plants would normally need and I'd guess the soil would take some time to dry out so I'd be afraid to water them at all. That is not to say you are wrong to water yours. The fact that you do so successfully is what makes the whole subject so interesting.
You are correct...maybe much of it is experience. However, I do use shop lights in the garage, on timers, for at least some light. They are under definitive short days; 10 hours light. And, you are also correct in that they don't dry out fast, which is why only one or two waterings during the winter is sufficient. And they are not thorough waterings at that, just enough to provide some water. At watering time, for example, the water given to them runs right through the mix. But enough of it stays in the mix, coupled with the coolness, that it clings to the mix particles, raises humidity, roots "take it up," and etc. But they do very well in these conditions: cool, dry, not enough light to encourage growth, long enough periods of darkness to not encourage growth, etc.
As I'm writing this, and not putting that much thought into it, I can't think of anywhere, at least in the continental USA, that has such totally dry winters/dormant seasons without any water at all. Plus, to add to the tricky-ness of this subject, oftentimes during the growing season (e.g.. summer) the plants are under more water deficit stress than the dormant season.
Our native Opuntia (here in the Kansas City area), such as the ones on my 20 acre property about one hour south of where I live, do just fine with our environmental conditions. And they don't actually grow in dry conditions or locations. Some of the best clumps are in the wetter areas! Same with OUR NATIVE Yucca species. On a side note, don't believe it when people or catalogs say that Yucca is deer resistant, those deer love Yucca! Especially the flower stalks! Yummy to them, must taste like large Asparagus!
Ahh, the bigger picture is so blurry. And I agree that it may be better for many people to give them a more cut-and-dry answer. I, too, do that for people who ask questions.
Yes, a tricky subject indeed! :)
25.1.09
Subject: Shrivelling opuntias
Arlene W. - USA
You told me not to water my opuntias if I keep them in a cold greenhouse (around 40F). I followed your instructions but now the plants are shrivelling. What should I do?
Answer
That's okay. Opuntias tend to shrink and shrivel when very cold .. which means they are reducing their water content.This helps protect them from freezing. In another few weeks when the temperature warms up you can start watering them again and watch them plump up nicely.
24.1.09
Subject: Aloe ramosissima
Mick S. - USA
Question for you. I have several Aloe ramosissimas that I am training in bonsai pots--very nice plants. It took a while to figure out how to grow them--I killed a number before I figured that out. I bought them from Gene at Plants for the Southwest in Tucson--nice plants.
At any rate, I'm wondering if you have any experience air layering them. I have found them very difficult to strike as cuttings, w/ a 100% rot rate. Gene confirms this. I thought that trying to air layer them rather than kill another attempting a cutting might work. Any help in this regard?
Answer
I've never tried air layering aloes and have not heard of anyone who does this. I suppose you could try but if not done just right you stand to lose the entire plant. It is also a very slow process.
This species is highly susceptible to rot (which you found out) .. so rooting cuttings could well be a problem. You could try the 'over the water' method where water doesn't touch the cuttings at all. Good results have been had with this procedure.
Fill a small jar about half full of water. Poke a hole in the lid (big enough to allow a cutting to go through) and insert a cutting (dry it first) far enough in that it does not actually touch the water. Try just one cutting and see how it works.
Failing that all I can suggest is to plant your cuttings after thoroughly dry. Do not water. Instead put a "little" water in the pot saucer. That will get wicked up in the soil but not so high as to touch the cutting. It is moisture too near the cuttings that seems to encourage rot.
24.1.09
Subject: Planting Orchid Cactus cuttings
Sheila L. - USA
I just received 2 clipping of "Master of Mars" orchid cactus. Which end should I put in the soil- the narrow or wider one- or does it matter?
Do the cuttings in these photos look like they are ready to be planted or should I still wait as they need to dry more?
Answer
30.12.08
The cuttings might root if you plant them upside down but it is far preferable to plant the right end in the soil so that the plant can assume it's normal growth form.
I've marked the cuttings (with an X) for you to show which ends to plant. The missing photo was not clear enough for me to see which end was which. I'm sure from the ones I have marked you will know what to do.
The very narrow ends seem ready to plant but I can't see from the photos if the wider cuts are dry enough. To be on the safe side I'd wait a few days before planting those.
When the end to be planted is really really small, it is often better to slice a piece off to make that end wider to accommodate more roots to better support the plant as it grows. And of course let the cut callous over before planting. If cuts are not dry enough and water can get in .. rot will follow.
Subject: Pups and plants
Louise M. - Australia
I have the most wonderful Epiphyllum growing inside in a very light
area at The Gold Coast in Queensland Australia grown from a cutting
given to me by my cousin.
Recently I acquired a gorgeous puppy who unfortunately adores it too.
My question here is can the leaves be poisonous? I do my best to curb
the pup's enthusiasm but some leaves still get partly eaten.
Interesting also is that I brought the cutting from Melbourne which
meant it travelled in my suitcase for approx. 7 hours in all, and
although looking very worse for wear for maybe a month, took off and
never looked back. Even the puppy bites dont seem to be affecting it
adversely.
Look forward to you response. Best regards
Answer
Congratulations on your Christmas puppy. As far as I know the stems (leaves) of Epiphyllum are not poisonous to animals.
I personally prefer to keep my pets away from all my plants just to be on the safe side. We don't always know if somebody has treated their plants with pesticides (systemics in particular) which means the stems/leaves and even cuttings could carry some trace or more of these.
Your plant will surely look and do better without being constantly nibbled. Chomping leaves is the same as cutting off leaves and this will stress the plant which in turn might refuse to flower when the time comes. In the meantime puppy might be telling you it loves greens and would appreciate a green veggie in his/her diet.
Happy New Year.
27.12.08
Subject: Potting Question
Paul G.
You have a very informative web site - thanks for making it available!
I received two Orchid Cacti (which now I know are epi's) that were
potted with a schefflera. I repotted, and to be safe, just took all
three together since I had not identified the epi's yet.
While the light requirements of each seem compatible, my hunch is
that the epi's would ideally require different soil and watering -
but is this worth the disruption? Thanks
Answer
My pleasure. Glad to hear you find our web site useful.
No. 1 worry I have about growing Orchid Cacti with a Schefflera is because the Schefflera is prone to spider mite. I would keep that one a distance from any other plants.
No. 2 worry would be that as they grow they will mix together rather than develop their own form. Both can become fairly large in time.
No. 3. Light requirements are about the same but soil is not. Orchid Cacti need a more acid soil mix than does Schefflera.
No. 4. Orchid cacti like to be pot bound. Schefflera does not although some would argue that point since it is sometimes grown as bonsai in which case plant and roots are often pruned.
Given the above, I would say it is well worth it to separate the plants. I would even separate the epis because they look so much better when bigger when grown in their own pots. You don't want multiple stems overlapping each other which would cut out a fair amount of light.
Happy Holidays.
21.12.08
Subject: A very special story of friendship and sharing
Ruth Ann W.- USA
I received an Epi hybrid several years ago when my boss and I were moving away. The Epi came to reside at my store and every May it would bless me with beautiful flowers. I loved showing off my plant to my customers and those that were interested I would give them a cutting. I did not know the name of the plant until recently when I discovered a picture of a plant that looked a lot like mine. It referred to it as an orchid cactus. So I went on the Internet to see what I could find about Orchid Cactus. That is when I found your wonderful informative website
.On May 4, 2007 an EF5 tornado stuck Greensburg, KS and destroyed our Bulk Food Store. I rummaged around in the debris looking for anything salvageable, hoping I might find something. I did not find any sign of my Epi.
In August, Jan came to see me bringing me a surprise. I had given her a cutting and now she was bringing me my plant back. Then in Oct. Carolyn called to say she had left a plant for me to pick up, another Epi for me. I am really looking forward to seeing the Epis in bloom; hope I won't be disappointed. I will send you a picture. I never dreamed giving away cuttings would give me back my special plant.
21.12.08
Subject: Is the On Line Digest technical?
Gillian W. - USA
I was thinking to join your Digest but want to know how technical it is. I've tried others and they were way too difficult for me to understand. I worry about ever figuring out plant names.
Answer
Our Digest is both for and by amateur hobbyists. It is not the same as highly technical publications which have an important place in our hobby too. We do use botanical plant names but in most cases when you see the plant name you see a photograph of the plant too. I know beginners find the names difficult but think of it like this. Most of us are familiar with not so easy names like Rhododendron and Hibiscus because we see or hear about them fairly frequently. The same applies to the names of succulents. The more you see them the more easily familiar they become.
Articles, photos and other information in our Digest are provided by very friendly amateur hobbyists all over the world. The whole purpose of our publication is to share information and photos with each other which makes our publication really unique.
If I can help further let me know.
20.11.08
Subject: Christmas Cactus flowering
Nancy B.
I have a Christmas cactus/Thanksgiving cactus - whatever that is about 5
years old and it does not bloom.
It is by a window but does not get drect sun. What should I do to make
it bloom or does it need a companion?
Any help appreciated
Answer
It is important that the plant have several weeks of short days to encourage it to bloom. That means total darkness - not interrupted by lights in the house. The easiest thing to do is to throw something over it like a plastic garbage bag when it starts getting dark outside late afternoon. Take the cover off in the morning when it is getting light again outside. Keep doing that every day until you see buds form. When buds form don't move the plant around because that could encourage bud drop.
It must also have very bright light during daylight hours. Too much shade can also deter flowering.
Good luck. Send me a picture when it is in full bloom!
17.11.08
Subject: Sedum ID needed
I really enjoyed visiting your Succulent webpage, and I am hoping you can
help me identify a Succulent plant that was in my family for over 40 years,
but unfortunately was eaten up by hungry rodents last year when it was
housed inside during a particularly bad winter.
I am enclosing it's pictures. The plant was
purchased in San Antonio, TX over 40 years ago, and sadly the last surviving
plant was eaten by rodents last year, so I am hoping someone can identify it
so I may look for it online and purchase another one, as I had a great emotional
attachment to this plant as it was my deceased mothers favorite. I have never seen
another one in any store or online, and I have been looking everywhere. It
also put out tiny white star shaped flowers every year.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Answer
This is a Sedum - possibly Sedum album micranthum 'Chloroticum'. Sedums are difficult to identify. There are many man made cultivars.
This is a reliable web site source for sedums where you will find either this plant or something very much like it.
http://www.squawmountaingardens.com/product.cfm?startrow=41&CID=1
Note: Ray Stephenson, author of Sedum: Cultivated Stonecrops, thinks the plant is the Mexican Sedum diffusum.
16.11.08
Subject: Dark tarp not a good idea for epis
Mary - USA
Hi I have many question concerning my eppies, but first I need to know how the affects are of keeping my eppies in a greenhouse year round as I have no trees in my yard to keep them and I have over 100 in my collection. I have a dark tarp over just the top of my greenhouse but much filtered light gets in through the sides of it. I only have 3-4 large plants and the rest are still rather young plants, but non have bloomed yet other than my night blooming cactus which produced one flower and another on the way. Is keeping my plants in this greenhouse year round having a bad affect on my plants? I do have a fan to allow for much air circulation but Im afraid the tarp may be too much darkness for them, I'm just not sure. I'm hoping for blooms this spring from my few larger plants but I just don't know if it will happen for me. Any idea?
Answer
A dark tarp will cut out too much light. Epis do not like full sun but they still need very bright light to grow well and encourage blooming.
If you could find 50/50 shade cloth for the roof of your greenhouse it would be much better than a dark tarp. As long as you have good air circulation there is no problem keeping the plants in the greenhouse year round
2.11.08
Subject: Sedum morganianum - Burro's Tail
I am rather pleased with this photo of what I believe to be Sedum morganianum, 'Burro's tail' . He's happy in a basket in full sun here in sub-tropical Queensland Australia. He also seems to propagate very easily from dropped segments, just shoved into a loose potting mix. Takes a few months but then kicks on nicely.
Answer
Yes, Colin, it is Sedum morganianum. It is difficult to repot this plant. Segments fall off too easily. To control that happening let the plant totally dry out and leave it like that for a couple of days.
Thanks for sharing a great photo.
1.11.08
Subject: Agave attenuata
Min M.
Hello from Melbourne.I have 3 large and 1 very large Agave Attenuata all planted in pots and growing beautifully,however as the pots are under the eaves of the house all the plants have of course grown toward the sun.The stems are between 60cm to 70cm but are bending toward the sun and with the weight of the plant head the plants are not looking as stunning as they once did.Can I cut the stems off and re-plant?? If that is possible can you re-plant the left over root base?? Cheers.
Answer
The reason why your plants appear to be growing toward the sun may not be the sun. This Agave is known for having a stem that bends over as the plant matures. It is sometimes called the Swan Neck Agave. In some cases the rosette is just about lying on the ground. You can cut the stems off, make sure the cut is thoroughly dry before planting again. The problem is you will be in for the same problem all over again as the plants mature.
You could also keep the root base and hope more shoots will grow from it.
27.10.08
Subject: Epiphyllum german empress
Thank you again for your assistance in the identification and suggested treatment for my German Empress.
She still looks a little straggly and not quite her beautiful self but the good news is that she is sending up fresh clean shoots and so when she finishes flowering, I will be able to start a new basket from the cuttings.
Your help was very much appreciated
22.10.08
Subject: Winter growers
Joan W. - USA
Can you tell me which plants grow in winter?
Answer
I can give you a list of ones I know grow in winter but there may be others.
From: The Amateurs' Digest Vol. 17 Issue 3 November 2005, Supplement Section.
Adromischus, Aeonium, Aichryson, Aloe, Anacampseros, Astroloba, Avonia, Bowiea, Bulbine, Ceraria, Conophytum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Dactylopsis, Dioscorea, Dudleya, Fouquieria, Gasteria, Gibbaeum, Graptopetalum, Graptoveria, Greenovia, Haemanthus, Haworthia, Kalanchoe, Monanthes, Neohenricia, Othonna, Pachycormus, Pachyphytum, Pachyveria, Pelargonium, Peperomia, Pilea, Portulacaria, Sansevieria, Sarcocaulon, Sedeveria, Sedum, Senecio, Sphalmanthus (Phyllobolus), Stomatium, Talinum, Tylecodon.
Please note:
It is not uncommon for a plant to change its growing habit and revert from being a winter grower to a summer grower and vice-versa.
Winters growers have a dormant period in summer's warmest months. Perhaps calling them winter growers is a bit of a push because they actually grow during autumn and spring. In real winter months when days are shortest they produce minimal growth.
13.10.08
Subject: San Pedro with black spots
Mauricio S. - USA
I just picked some clippings of san pedro cactus. I planted them and
now the clippings are full of pimple like back spots. Please help I
do not want my plants to die.
Answer
When you take cuttings you must let the cuttings dry until the open wound is calloused over so moisture can't get in to where the open wound is. You can't take cuttings and plant them immediately - otherwise the cuttings will rot .. and I think the black spots are a sign of that starting.
11.10.08
Subject: Uncarina peltata (Madagascar)
Jerry L. - USA
What is the trick to bringing into flower Uncarina peltata?
Answer
I know of no trick that will make the plant bloom. When it is mature enough to flower it will, providing it has the right growing conditions. Is it getting enough light? Are you feeding it? Is the soil adequate, etc.
I asked Jerry about his growing conditions for the plant.
1. How big is the plant you have?
About 3.5' tall, single stem, base is about 3" thick, with nice slightly peeling bark.
2. What soil mix is it in?
My "special" mix! Really a generic, well draining mix.
3. What fertilizer do you use and how often?
This year, I have fertilized only twice (usually six to eight times per growing season...way too much rain this year on a regular basis to warrant additional irrigation at fertilization time). I use a program similar to institutions, where I fertilize with a stronger dose at a more infrequent time frame, usually about every two weeks during a normal growing season.
4. How much light/sun does it get?
Full sun from 11 am to sunset. Hot, painted deck; wilts during the day due to the heat. Indoors in the winter. But the plant is beautiful. Maybe just not mature enough.
Out of all of your answers, Jerry, something stands out to me. The plant wilts during the day due to the heat from a painted deck.
Every time this happens the plant is stressed out. This might well be the reason why the plant doesn't flower. If it is using all its resources to handle the stress .. which apparently it does .. there's little if any energy left to deal with flowering.
I would be inclined to move it where wilting can be avoided but where the plant will still have the same amount of light.
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Terry
Hi! LOVE your website. So helpful in answering numerous questions. The elderly woman that gave me a green stick with no leaves two years ago, told me to cut off branches without leaves to initiate blooming which would happen when the plant has 12+ leaves. I forgot about her suggestion until this past spring, and my two plants (from the original stick) had several leafless branches. I cut them off, and this week have enjoyed five beautiful blossoms between the two plants which have 12 & 15 leaves.
Two questions: 1. I read that I shouldn't fertilize during the winter months, but I'm wondering about fertilizing to help the plant recoup after so many blooms on two young plants?
2. Should I let the finished blooms just dangle from the leaves or cut them off? Will they just dry up and fall off? After reading your website, I don't think mine will develop fruit as they are indoor plants in a northern climate.
Thanks you so much.
Answer
I've never heard of making this plant flower using that procedure. Any cuttings of the plant should root and eventually produce blooms.
There is no rule about feeding the plant after flowering but keep in mind once flowering is over, the plant wants to rest. Feeding is to encourage growth and flowering. The feeding should preferably be done in the weeks before it is expected to bloom.
Leave the flowers until they are really well dried out and they will come off with a slight tug. Or they will eventually fall off. Your choice.
Fruit will not develop without pollination.
14.9.08
Subject: Over wintering plants and Pereskia aculeata godseffiana
I am getting ready to bring my cactus and succulents in for the winter. Can you give me an idea of which I can leave in a cool room with little to now water and those that need to be in a warmer room, I guess they're called winter growing succulents? I know it's impossible to list them all but I appreciate any help you can give.
The attached picture has nothing to do with my question but I like it a lot. It does well both in and outdoors.
I just subscribed to your on line Digest and am wondering how long it takes to receive my code. I love your digest!
Answer
It is almost impossible to answer your question without knowing something about the plants you grow. Most desert cacti will do well at 45F minimum with little or no water through winter months. The "other" succulents, however, are another story. Some will be okay in a cool room and others will not. Could you send me a photo of your collection and maybe I can tell you more?
Yes, there are some plants which grow during winter and they need warmth at that time as well as watering and feeding. Not all plants that need warmth in winter, however, are winter growers.
I'm very pleased to hear you enjoy our Digest (print version). Your code will be sent to you shortly so you can access the new version on line September issue from our web site. I hope you enjoy that too.
Let me know if I can help further.
PS Your Pereskia needs a minimum of 50F through winter months. Less water than in spring and summer but don't let it totally dry out.
Please note: The ID I gave of Pereskia aculeata godseffiana .. may in fact have changed at some point. It is believed the name may now be Pereskia aculeata var. rubescens. I have, however, no way of verifying that. (Marina).
13.9.08
Subject: Slow Release Fertilizers
Gordon P. - USA
What do you think of slow release fertilizers?
Answer
They are quite popular and convenient to use. However, because they release their nutrients a little at a time each time a plant is watered, how often you have to water a plant determines how often the plant is being fed. For most cacti and succulents I personally feel it is wiser to use a liquid fertilizer which I can control and water down to the strength that suits the needs of whatever particular plant I'm feeding. Cacti and succulents do not take kindly to being over fed.
11.9.08
Subject: Rooting Agave attenuata
Chris W. - Australia
Hi, I have been given three very large plants that to the best of my knowledge (from researching the internet) I believe are Agave attenuata. The plant tops are at least 60cm wide and have been cut off at their stem (approx 6inch/150cm left.) I would like to repot these if possible to make features of them as they look magnificent. What if any special precuations should I take to ensure they survive. They will live out the front of my house and will recieve full sun almost all day. Thanks in advance Chris White
P.s Where i live in Queensland can get very hot in summer, temps can sometimes reach 40 degrees celsius. Will they withstand all day powerful sun/heat like this?
Answer
Congratulations. Not one but three prizes. Lucky you!
You should have no trouble rooting the plants. One of our members not long ago rooted the same Agave of fair size with great success. Actually they rooted so quickly I was quite amazed.
Make sure the cut ends of the stems are thoroughly dry and healed over before you plant them. If any water/moisture gets into those cut ends there is a risk of rot. If not sure leave them out in the air drying for a couple of weeks before you plant them.
Just insert the stems in well draining soil. Prop the plant up straight if necessary. You could lightly moisten the soil before you put the stems in but I would not thoroughly water the plants for at least a couple of weeks or even a month. After that water once a month or so until they are well rooted in the ground after which nature will take care of them except for an occasional watering.
I hope they have been in full sun before because if not and you suddenly put them in direct sunshine they could burn as a result. If they have been in a shady place until now you'd have to gradually move them to brighter and brighter light over a period of several weeks so they get used to the sun gradually. In that case you could prepare pots of well draining soil and sink the stems in those so you can move them .. until ready to go into the ground.
I don't see any reason why you could not grow them in hot sun .. providing they have been accustomed to or acclimatized to that much sun, are well ventilated and not crowded together with each other or other plants. I have known people who have grown them in full hot sun and also in semi (but not total) shade. They seem to do well in both situations. This Agave is from Mexico (Hidalgo).
Good luck. Send me a photo one day when they are all established.
6.9.08
