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Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
How Dangerous are Euphorbias ?
Subject: Epiphyllum problems
Sherry M.. - USA
Hi love your site and its great to see how many people love these plants. I am having trouble with my Jefferson Davis. The second photo shows the leaves (between the blooms) riddled with black spots I call chancres. It looks a little like Jenie from Australia s plant but without the purple edges. It does not hang under a tree. Additionally, there a few of the leaves with entire midsections that look like tan paper. (The brown or whitish paper effect also occurs on a very large 40 yr. old night blooming cereus I have.) Do I have two different problems? The night cereus is otherwise healthy. I (like other readers) am worried I am losing the Jefferson Davis. I took a leaf sample to Rutgers University Extension Service in our county where Master Gardener volunteers examined it under a microscope and did not see any insect activity around the black spots. It does seem like a fungus. They were not optimistic. I am taking cuttings, but would like to save the mother plant. I think the damage is too widespread to start cutting away parts with a sterile knife. The plant gets morning sun outdoors on a north facing porch May- Sept. It comes indoors to a relatively cool room in south facing sun the rest of the year. It bloomed like crazy this year. It is about 24 28 inches long and had probably close to 100 blooms total over 6-8 weeks or so. Since not much is known about fungal disease or treatment, what would you suggest I try? I am willing to experiment, but don t know if I should try a sulfur based treatment or something else. Would a fungicide used on roses for black spot possibly work? Suggestions appreciated!
Answer
In your photo I can see only one problem, a dried out stem to the right of the picture. Otherwise the picture shows a plant that looks healthy. You say there are a "few" leaves with entire midsections affected. I would cut out these leaves at their base and destroy them. Usually the advice is to destroy the entire plant before the problems spread to other plants but I can't be sure (from the photo) that you have a problem major enough to take that kind of drastic action.
The spots are usually caused by a fungus and this problem usually starts during humid and cool conditions in winter months. Drastic temperature variations are sometimes to blame.
A fungal or bacterial disease is also the usual cause for sunken, dried, discolored areas on the stems.
A good dusting with any fungicide (on both plants) may help and is worth trying after removing all affected leaves.
All you can do is take some good cuttings in case the fungicide doesn't work .. but keep in mind the cuttings may already be infected with the same bacterial or fungal infection.
15.8.10
Subject: Bubble wrap around plants
Marina
If anyone is planning to keep their outdoor plants warm and/or protected from wind by wrapping them with bubble wrap (as I'm told some plan to do), I suggest you don't do that. I tried that one year and the moisture trapped by the plastic eventually caused the plants to rot. It's better to use something like burlap or commercially available cloth type tree wrap products.
14.8.10
Subject: Nopalxochia phyllanthoides
Ruth
I have had a nopalxochia phyllanthoides for about eight years now. It is sitting in the by a west facing window where it gets the afternoon and evening sun. My husband said that it bloomed 5 years ago but I can t remember. It lustrous looking very green and healthy, I have taken several cutting from this plant. But as of now it won t bloom. What am I doing wrong. How do I get it to bloom. Please advice on how to get it bloom. Thank you Ruth
AnswerSubject: Orchid cactus .. time to repot?
I wish I could see the size of your plant and know how many cuttings you have taken off. Too many cuttings off any plant will set back the plant and could prevent it from flowering.
When was the last time you repotted it? After two or three years the goodness in the soil will be spent and repotting into fresh mix (an acid soil is preferred for this plant) is important.
An acid type fertilizer should be used monthly as well.
Any chance you can send me a photo of it?
14.8.10
Kaye C
I have recently received 6 orchid cactus from my mother's home after her death. I had no idea how to care for them until I found your web-site. My question at this point is when do I repot? I have seen all the info on how to repot but nothing on when. I live in SE Ga. and it is very hot right now, so do I wait till the fall or repot now?
Thank you for your help,
AnswerSubject: Euphorbia eye damage
I think I'd wait for cooler weather to repot. The plants don't like high heat so may already be stressed, not to mention the shock of moving them from one location to another.
Sincere sympathy on the loss of your mother.
3.8.10
Alma L. - USA
I wonder if your organization, with so much relevant information about Euphorbia exposure, might possibly have an enlightening effect on poison control centers.
Do you know if anyone is advising the regional or national poison center places (their phone # is in the front of our local phone book) about Euphorbia danger? I thought I was dealing with a Sedum, so did the first nurse in the emergency room (I brought a sample along). It might have helped treatment along if the poisoning center my husband called before we went to the hospital, could have helped us to identify the plant. They said to treat it as a burn, with burn cream, or (I forget what else). If I can help with increasing awareness at the poison centers and my hospital's emergency crew I would like to. I plan to remove the plant so it won't happen again to me, or to the local cats, dogs or kids. Thank you for having this page. I plan to write about my experience later.
This is what happened to me on Saturday evening. The exposure happened Saturday evening. I'm quite sure it was Euphorbia myrsinites. I was trimming the dried blooms off of the plant and I threw them in the garbage can. I went inside, don't think I washed my hands but I put Restasis drops in my eyes because they felt very dry. My hands must have contaminated the Restasis ampule because there was a strong burning sensation in my eyes from the drops. Then I used Visine Dry Eye Relief and the burning continued, then I used Murine Plus, with the same reaction. (This is where I should have realized I was dealing with something new to me, but instead I latched on to the idea that I must have forgotten to use my dry eye medication while away at a retreat all day. I think I had a long and very faulty, Senior Moment.)
I decided to do what I have done for bad dry eye attacks before, which is put ice packs on and off of my eyes. Meanwhile my husband and I searched the internet for the plant as a Sedum, which I thought it was. We called a poison center, (called it a Sedum probably) and they said to treat it like a burn, with burn cream. My husband tried rinsing out my eyes with a 50 cc syringe, but it didn't seem to help. After 2-3 hours, while the eyes cooled down some, still very red and swollen lids and bloodshot eyes, I decided to go to the emergency room because of fear of eye damage and that I might need a medication. While I picked up the Restasis ampule to show the medics, I must have brushed my face, and burning and redness started spreading around my face. At emergency, where the nurse agreed that my plant sample was probably a Sedum, the Dr. said my corneas looked ok, they gave me an eye wash in a fountain device, had me read eye charts in a portable device, asked questions about my allergies, washed my face with soap and water, and told me to come back or go to my MD if it got worse. They called it a chemical skin exposure. (They left my eyes out of my home report, which worries me some. I'm going to check that it is in their own report, in case there are complications.)
This is Tuesday 5 pm and my eyes feel normal and the eyelid swelling went down Saturday night. My face is still red and swollen and itchy, and has some blotches from popped blisters. I've taken Benedryl because a pharmacist told me it is one of the better antihistamines for skin problems. On his advice I didn't put anything on my face while there were blisters.
On the advice of an optometrist (double checking my corneas because I was still worried about them) I've kept my eyes hydrated, and I tried some cortisone cream on my face but it doesn't help much. I want to help get the word out about the danger of exposure to Euphorbia latex. A "Master Gardener" neighbor gave me the plant starters for my Euphorbia when I asked her for some, but I don't remember her warning me about touching it. I couldn't get hold of her the evening this happened. She was very sorry this happened to me.
It was frightening enough that I think there should be much more awareness about it, among plant 'sharers', and among medical and poison centers.
Answer
You ask a very good question. I have never heard of any one person advising the various poison control centers of the problem with euphorbias. It would be a less daunting task for people to contact their own poison control centers if they are aware of euphorbias in their area or are being sold at retail outlets like grocery stores where the sellers usually have no idea what they are selling.
Sorry you had such a bad experience and hope all is well by now.
Euphorbia myrsinites
Plant & Photo - Marina Welham
24.7.10
Subject: Epi bud that has not opened
Bruce
First of all great web site. I have it downloaded to my Favorites for quick reference. Our neighbor was in the process of throwing away an Epi,so not wanting to waste a plant I took it. Long story short it was in bad shape but now nice and green, putting out new leaves and two very long scapes on the opposite side of the root/base system. I have one bud that is huge,almost 4 " long with a variety of long sepals that appear to be in layers.The sepals have parted and it has been in the process of opening for 2 weeks but has stalled out. There is another very small bud starting 3/4 " and looks healthy. I do not know this plants name but the leaves are very long,thick and are shaped like a Malayan Kris knife blade.
Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.
AnswerBruce
I'm not sure what your question is. A lot of things can affect flowers and/or put them back. Moving the plant, change of temperature, drafts, change of light, etc. Glad you like our web site.
Hi,question why after 2 weeks has this bud not opened and any idea what kind of Epi it might be?
AnswerBruce
As I said yesterday, a lot of things can affect how flowers react. It isn't normal for the flower to take two weeks to open. I'm wondering if it did open when you didn't see it and it is now spent.
If you could send me a photo of the plant I might be able to help you identify it. There are so many look-alikes it would be impossible to know for sure which one it is without seeing it. However it may be a Epiphyllum oxypetalum.
Touchdown !!...that's it.This epi hangs from a beam,in the patio and gets dappled sunlight and spends it life out of doors.It was really shabby when we got it but now it looks good and as I said has two very long (13 1/2") brand new scapes/branches that seem to counter balance the plant .They started as long cylinders but now are flattening and showing the indentations.
Thanks for your sleuthing and help.
AnswerSubject: Nopalxochia phyllanthoides - success at last
My pleasure. Glad the ID was right.
Just make sure the plant does not get direct sun. Mist the leaves occasionally in warm weather. Water thoroughly whenever the soil is almost dry.
24.7.10
Craig S. - USA
Looks like I may have finally got things right!
My Epi has made me a happy gardner this year. After several years without blooming followed by your advice I have success at last. Well worth the wait and effort.
You mention on your website that healthy stems can produce flowers for several years. From the pictures you can see the plant looks happy enough, several stems have 5 or 6 flowers on it this year. Would you expect these stems to still be flower producers next year given correct conditions? I assume an areole (spelling?) will only produce one flower, is this correct? Thanks for making your advice available.
Answer
I feel like a grandmother !! It's good to know my advice was helpful and produced results. The photos are gorgeous. Thanks for sharing your success with this wonderful plant. Please note it looks like an Epi but is actually not an Epi. The plant is called Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. Yes the same stems can flower again next year. One flower per areole is correct. Have a great summer.
17.7.10
Subject: Mammillaria ID Needed
Dave P. - USA
Can anyone help ID this Mammillaria please? Ther's a single spine on each tubercle and 2-4 very delicate spines growing in the axils. No latex. Thanks very much.
Answer
Dave Papayanopulos, USA
I have identified what was my mystery Mammillaria. There is a photo of the plant in CACTI by Paul Starosa (photos) and Vincent Cerutti (text) c 1996. "Mammillaria spinosisima f.'single spine' This curious plant is yet to be fully identified. It is not a botanical species but a cultivar. The seeds came from Mexico but from exactly where is unfortunately not known. The cactus was raised by a German grower on the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. A long process of selection has made it possible to isolate and propagate remarkable individual specimens, such as that shown here."
14.07.10
Subject: Sago palm
Anonymous - USA
I've had my Sago Palm for about 9 months. It sits in front of my drafty window and gets very little sunlight. Its been in the same spot since I got it and now the fronds are completely yellow. I've maintained it as directed. So what could I possibly be doing wrong? Also, when re-potting does the bulb stay above or below the soil?
AnswerSubject: Yellowing of cacti and palm tree fronds
If I sat in front of a drafty window with little sunlight I'd turn yellow too. Whoever gave you growing instructions is in the wrong business. The bulb should be replanted the way it is now. The existing soil line will guide you to the right depth.
Jerry L., USA
I like your answer, Marina, on the Sago palm. They really aren't indoor plants, at least long term indoor plants. And cycads in general have a growth rate all their own, and it varies every year. Some years you might have one flush of leaves, the next year, two flushes, the next year, nothing. For some reason cycads decide to take a year off from growing. Even mine outside for the summer do that. It can be frustrating but that is the nature of those beasts. And while Sago Palms can take some low light, the leaves will eventually turn yellow as the plant acclimates to that light level...it may be too low for many leaves, if any. I grow mine outside in the summer in full sun. The leaves are nice and tight and somewhat compact. I like that look. Indoors I suggest as much sun as possible. A sunny - not drafty - window would be great. And keep slightly, evenly moist. During the winter, a little dryer. Too dry and the leaves will again turn yellow. During the summer I fertilize every few weeks. No fertilizer in the winter. I have a very large, 10-gallon size pot, Sago Palm that over winters in a work shop with no heat during the winter, with temps dipping in the 20s during cold nights. It loses about half the leaves (from the bottom up) during the winter, but rebounds once it is again outside. Talk about HEAVY and SPINES. Once they are large enough you realize how non-user friendly Sago Palms are.
The Sago Palms are easy. They grow faster than people realize with good growing conditions
25.6.10
Anne V. - USA
Here is a question from Santa Barbara, California: Some of the cacti and euphorbias in my outdoors cactus garden have turned yellow. The same is true of some Queen palm trees. There is obviously a deficiency--but of what? A soil element or watering? Will be very grateful for some ideas.
AnswerSubject: Overzealous pruning of Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Yellowing is usually caused by .... lack of iron, magnesium or other mineral deficiency .. or overwatering or too much calcium in the soil or insufficient light. The latter isn't the problem since the plants are outdoors.
Try feeding the plants with a 20-20-20 fertilizer "with trace elements".
If you water very frequently try watering less.
Test the pH of the soil. A pH meter available at any garden center is not expensive and well worth having.
If your soil is too alkaline that might be your yellowing problem too.
Actually all of these together could be responsible for the discoloring of the plants.
Jerry L., USA
I have seen many "yellow" plants through the southwest on my travels. Sometimes I wonder if it isn't necessarily a nutrient deficiency, but possibly the sun. Too much, too soon, too dry with too much, no - too little acclimatization, too hot of a location, etc
20.6.10
Maryann
I appreciate your very inforamtive website. I recently made some cuttings from a mature, established multi-blooming E. oxypetalum not realizing there were tiny buds on the cuttings...I've just placed these cuttings into soil after letting them "dry" for only a few days (once I realized they had buds and not leaf sprouts). Do you think there's any chance these tiny buds will actually flower? At present the buds measure between 1/4 and 3/8 inches. Your thoughts? I've learned my lesson, however...
AnswerSubject: Sago palm
The buds could flower but the shock to the plant of having the leaves cut might instead make them drop off. I would mist spray the cuttings every day and hope for the best.
Glad you enjoy our web site.
Let me know what happens to the buds.
20.6.10
Anonymous - USA
I've had my Sago Palm for about 9 months. It sits in front of my drafty window and gets very little sunlight. Its been in the same spot since I got it and now the fronds are completely yellow. I've maintained it as directed. So what could I possibly be doing wrong? Also, when re-potting does the bulb stay above or below the soil?
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum anguliger seeds
If I sat in front of a drafty window with little sunlight I'd turn yellow too. Whoever gave you growing instructions is in the wrong business. The bulb should be replanted the way it is now. The existing soil line will guide you to the right depth.
20.6.10
Marc
After removing seeds from the fruit, I've soaked them in water for over 24 hours. Any suggestions on how to remove the gelatinous substance that surrounds the seeds, as this will not separate from the seed by soaking. Any suggestions?
AnswerSubject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Maybe those reading this will have their own methods and if they do I hope they will add their two cents because it would be interesting to know what others do in this case.
In the meantime what I do is to spread the seed with the coating on to a sheet of paper towelling. Spread it around well and within a day or so the jelly like stuff will dry up along with the seeds and then you can flick off the dried seeds while the jelly like stuff stays stuck to the paper.
Dick H. - Canada
You ask for other members' experiences, so I'll put in my two-bits worth. When I was growing a lot of Echinopsis I often encountered gelatinous seeds. My method was similar to what you describe - split the fruit open and spread the gelatinous seed ball out onto a paper towel. Then leave it to dry for about 24 hours and rub off the seeds with a finger. I think Echinopsis & Epiphyllum (hort) have similar size seeds that lend themselves to finger & thumb work. My memory says that it worked best if I didn't wait too long, since if the jelly got really dry it acted like dried glue and held the seeds to the paper too firmly.
10.6.10
William H. - UK
I have a Queen of the night but need help in stopping it to grow, it is now 6 ft plus and every year I have to chop off lots new leaves to try and keep in it neat and manageable (at least half a black bin bag).
Is it possible to split the root ball into two as I have a good 3 main stems growing up?
I never place the plant in the garden, very much against this because the leaves can get badly burnt and damaged. It does go into a lean-to from around 4pm and then in winter stays in this location. It seems happy to take temperatures as low as 40.F but no direct frost.
It is fed in summer with standard plant food from March to September.
The other option would be to take cutting which are easy, but find you then have a wait a few years before you get flowers. It seems to me that the older leaves produce the better flowers. It usually flowers twice a year late summer about a month apart for the usual 24 hrs.
Thanks for your help.
AnswerWilliam H. - UK
Most people would be pleased to have such a flourishing plant. This species does tend to grow fairly large when growing conditions are right.
Without seeing the roots I can't be 100% positive but if you have three good main stems you can probably split the root ball. Or, as you said, take cuttings which will mean waiting longer for flowers. You can also chop back the three main stems half way but that will still mean annual pruning.
You may be feeding the plant too much or too often or with a fertilizer too high in nitrogen. You should be diluting any standard fertilizer to quarter strength.
Thank you for the email, yes I am very happy with the plant it might only flower for 24hrs once or twice a year but what a work of art the flowers are and now getting about 10 - 15 flowers every time. Wife thinks it's too big.
The roots are quite root bound, as I keep it in a pot for about two / three years then will change up in size (only about a inch / 2.5 cm) clearing some of the old soil away and then adding just new household plant compost but with no water retainer in it.
I do feed maybe a lot, but at a much lower strength then 1 in 4, as I presume (not knowing) that leaf waste can't provide too much food in the trees. I feed tomato plant food at about 1 in 30 all through the growing season and then no feeds and very little water from October to march. Sometimes I think am I doing the right thing as plant in winter does stop growing and leafs shrink slightly but then in late March / April it goes mad again, so it must be OK I presume.
Any of your club members looking for cuttings in UK would be only too happy to help.
Love the website great flower pictures and great range of colours.
3.6.10
Subject: Allergy to Euphorbia latex
Rudolf S. - USA
See comments regarding Euphorbia misera at epoisins.htm
28.3.10
Subject: Pachypodium lamerei (Madagascar Palm)
Norma C. - Canada
I have three Madagascar Palms Marina. The one that didn't have any leaves grew some small ones on top this spring but they all curled and fell off at about 2 to 3 inches long. Both the others have leaves but haven't sprouted too many more and now some of their bottom leaves are falling off. Some articles I read says to water well in the summer and sparingly in the winter, others say about every 3 to 4 weeks in the summer. That to me isn't watering it well and I'm wondering if you've had any experience with these?
Answer
The curled leaves are the first sign of spider mite which is frequently a problem with this plant, especially for those grown in the home where there is a lot of dry air. You should spray plants with curled leaves with a miticide following directions on the product label. It is helpful to keep a pot of water nearby to give some humidity to the air. And keep topping up the water as it evaporates. This should help keep spider mites at bay.
Pachypodium lamerei needs a well draining, humusy soil. It should only be watered when it is in its leafy state. No water should be given when the plant is resting in its leafless state. Some plants keep their leaves all year long but only if they have heat all year long.
It is important that the plant be grown in full sun for best results.
Water the plant only when it is in leaf, water thoroughly and then allow the plant to almost dry out before watering again. It is not a matter of how often you should water because depending on growing conditions the soil can dry out fairly quickly or over a period of time. When leafless, don't water the plant at all. There is enough moisture in the body of the plant to sustain it until it is time to leaf out again and then you can begin watering again.
3.5.10
Subject: Epi hybrid plant
Dennis
I have bought an epi hybrid (in August 2009) from one of the local nursery in Singapore Initially there are a lot of flower buds but they dropped off as expected when I brought home due to transportation
I was asked to water only 2 days per week (watered until drain appears) At times with some red liquid fertiliser (every week once) In October 31st 2009, one beautiful flower bloomed for 36 hours from 1700 hours onwards
See photograph attached with the only flower
New shoots came but very narrow
Kindly advise me why the new leaves are narrow (not broad) as compared to the existing when I purchase
The plant looks weak and new leaves are still narrowed I have asked around and were introduced to use the "goat manure fertilizer" (already 2 months of usage) The leaves looks weak and have veins just like old age
I believed that the palnt is its worst condition now So I have replanted 2 days ago into a much smaller pot after some reading During this process, I notice that there are not much roots left (very little)
How to improve this roots condition?Thanks
Answer
I could be wrong but looking at the photo you sent, it seems to me you have a pot of rooted cuttings rather than one plant. This could explain why there are few roots. And may also explain why some of the leaves look old and unhappy. If there are few roots on a cutting that leaf may not be getting enough moisture from the soil.
New shoots are always narrower than the mature leaves simply because they are new shoots. They will fill out as they grow.
You should water the plant when it NEEDS water .. not twice a week. It needs water when the soil has dried out quite a bit. If it is still wet you should not water it.
Goat manure fertilizer at full strength and especially twice a week is way too strong for epiphyllums. It should be watered down to a quarter of the regular strength and a good soaking (feeding) once a month should be enough.
If the plant looks sick you should not feed it at all. Make sure it is in bright light but not direct sun and avoid high heat.
Improving roots is a matter of giving the plant the best growing conditions.
Please read my article here http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
This will give you all the answers on how to grow the plants successfully.
3.5.10
Subject: Plant ID needed
Tricia R.
Can you help me identify this plant?
Answer
This is a Senecio. Possibly Senecio antandroi
28.4.10
Subject: Soil mixes for Madagascan plants
Nancy G. - USA
Wondered if anyone has a good general recipe for Madagascar succulents and/or caudiciforms? What about the use of pumice, tarface or coir?
AnswerSubject: Cactus Severe Pest Problem
A soil mix should match the moisture requirements of individual plants. Not all Madagascan plants require the same level of moisture.
The main requirement is that the mix must be porous enough to allow both air and water to move freely around the roots.
I recommend that you read the article "Succulent Euphorbias by Fred Dortort Part 2" on this web site where he addresses Madagascan succulents in particular.
http://www.sfsucculent.org/articles/succulenteuphorb2.html
Pumice helps to aerate the soil which is good for the roots of the plant.
Turface holds moisture in the soil and is a soil conditioner. Turface is a good product to replace pumice in a mix.
Coir holds moisture in the soil. It has little or no nutritional value for the plant.It has the same effect on pH as peat which raises the acidity of the soil.
The pH of the soil is equally important as the correct level of moisture retention. An inexpensive pH meter will tell you if your soil has the right pH level for each plant. Please read my article "Suitability of various pH values for plants" at http://www.theamateursdigest.com/phvalues.htm
I invite others to send me your suggestions for potting mixes for these plants. I know there are many who grow Madagascan succulents who have more experience with potting mixes for them than I have. Thanks.
26.4.10
Michelle
In 3 weeks, some of my cactus (about 50 of them) are going to a plant sale for donation.
I have had a fungus knat problem.
1st I tried the peroxide and water about 2 months ago and that did not do anything. 3 weeks ago I used beneficial nematodes from Gardens Alive, which last year worked and we still have just as many.
I can't donate these cactus unless I get rid of the fungus knats (and of course I am running out of room in the house). It is in the 70 degrees during the day, so I can treat them outside, but I now need something drastic to use.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
AnswerSubject: Selenicereus anthonyanus
Since the plants are going to new homes it would be safer for the new owners, and possibly their children and/or pets, not to use any pesticides.
I have used beneficial nematodes in my outdoor garden and didn't find they did much good either. Fungus gnats thrive on moist organic matter. If you stop watering the plants, let them dry out completely and leave them that way until you take them to the plant sale, that should kill them off.
15.4.10
Marc
I came across your site on Epis and had a couple questions if you don't mind.
I have a ric rac cactus, and it has wonderfully flowered and fruited. Can you suggest how to cultivate the seeds, and any germination suggestions?
Are the fruits edible to humans?
Also, is there a difference between Selenicereus anthonyanus and Epiphyllum anguliger?
thanx in advance-
AnswerMarc
Cryptocereus anthonyanus is now Selenicereus anthonyanus
You can eat the fruit on your ric rac cactus .. but I'm not so sure you'll appreciate the seeds.
Don't remove the fruit until it has well ripened which could take months. After that there are no special germination techniques other than to keep the seeds moist until seedlings appear and are a couple of inches tall. You can then put them into their own small pots and treat as you would mature plants. It would be a whole lot faster to take cuttings and root them if you want more plants.
There is a difference between Selenicereus and Epiphyllum in that they are two distinct genera in the cactus family. If that's what you meant.
I can't be sure which cactus you have when you mention ric rac because that common name is given to more than one plant.
Great, thanx for the (thorough) reply. I'm pretty sure I have an Epiphyllum anguliger.
Last fall it bloomed with over a dozen flowers, of which nearly all fruited. The fruits are now getting softer, but still haven't changed color. Do they change color? And, is this a good way to determining if they are ripe? I'd love to raise a plant from seed, of this plant.
By the way, great site.
AnswerMarc
You're welcome. Always glad to help if I can.
Fruit will only mature if the seed has been fertilized. If it is not fertilized the partially developed fruit will fall off.
There is a wide variety of color, surface texture, spines and flavor of epi fruits. On average fruits take about a year to ripen. Some ripen much earlier and some later. When the fruit is ripe the color usually changes to red but sometimes also to yellow. A few varieties remain green. The best way to determine if a fruit is ripe is by feeling it. When it becomes slightly soft it is ripe.
I will expect a photo of the first flower off your first seed grown plant !!
Can Epis (or E. anguliger) self-pollinate? I acted as pollinator with a brush, but used pollen from the same plant. I haven't been able to find any botanical literature on this species, but haven't found anything legitimate yet. . .
AnswerSubject: Chewed leaves
Did you read my article on epis? I think most questions are answered there.
http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
For example it says:
How do I get seeds from my own plants?
True species come true from seed. Epi hybrids do not. For hybrids, only cuttings will produce a duplicate of the original plant.
To get true seed a flower must be pollinated with pollen from another individual of the same species. If all the plants in your collection came from cuttings of the same plant, which means they are all part of the same individual, there is no point trying to pollinate the flowers.
The procedure is simple. The ripe stigma is liberally dusted with pollen from a freshly opened flower. The trick is to know when the stigma is ripe. Sometimes the stigma is ripe and receptive when petals collapse and it is left sticking out of the faded flower and sometimes it can even be ripe before the buds open. If the pollen 'takes' the ovary remains green and attached to the plant after the rest of the flower fades. If it doesn't take, the entire flower fades and eventually drops off. 19.4.10
Shirley
My cat keeps chewing the ends of the leaves. will this harm the plant and keep it from blooming?
AnswerSubject: Sansevieria cylindrica
Any plant will be harmed and stop blooming if enough damage is done to it. Plants suffer from stress just as we do. It would be better to put the plant where your cat can't get at it.
15.4.10
Soozie M. - USA
Soozie M. USA I purchased this plant from a local grocery store (So. Calif. near San Diego) after Halloween - they told me it was called "Wisdom Horns", but I haven't been able to locate any information or even a reference when I've searched the internet.
The stalks are cylindrical, smooth and solid, the tallest being approx. 12-18". There is a "pup" also coming up that is about an inch tall that I'm wondering if I can propagate.
Any information you are able to provide is deeply appreciated!
Answer
This is Sansevieria cylindrica probably a variety called 'patula'
The three stems you have are actually three separate cuttings planted in one pot. The pup would be coming off one of those stems.
I suggest you pot each stem in a separate pot to give them all room to produce new pups. You could remove the small pup but it would be better right now while it is very small to pot the stem next to it along with the pup in its own pot. A pup just an inch tall is kind of small to remove and pot up.
This plant needs bright light but not direct sun. It needs a very well draining potting soil with grit or coarse sand added and feeding monthly with a 20-20-20 fertilizer with trace elements at 1/4 strength recommended on the product label.
I think you found a bargain. Very nice plant and great photo. Thanks for sharing. If I can help further let me know.
15.4.10
Subject: Spiralling in euphorbias
Carlos W. - USA
Do you know anything about spiralling in euphorbias and why it happens?
AnswerSubject: Agave ID needed please
The following is an item on this subject which we published in our 1998 Special Edition.
Spiralling in euphorbias
Why does it happen?
The reason for spiralling euphorbias has never been found. Many experiments have been made over the years but results of these tests have so far been unsatisfactory. Tests, however, have not been a wasted effort. It was discovered that there is a consistency in plant spiralling. The direction of the upward curve is consistently clockwise, as seen in the thread on a bolt or a wood screw. It can be concluded, therefore, that if a plant could be found with a reverse or counter clockwise spiral, it would be rare indeed.
Another curious thing about spiral stems is that offshoots from a stem of this nature very rarely inherit the winding gyrations of the mother plant. They always revert to the natural straight ribbed stem.
A test made to determine constancy in later generations yielded negative results. Not one spiral seedling was produced from 42 seeds taken from a sharply spiralled Euphorbia fimbriata. This proves conclusively that spirals are not hereditary. This characteristic is an acquired abnormality limited to a plant individually and not transmitted genetically. This behaviour is curious since seeds from cristate forms, which we usually think are associated with spiralled plants, do produce a certain percentage of cristate plants.
It has also been determined that external conditions such as richness of soil, temperature, etc. have nothing to do with this peculiar spiralled growth.
Photo: Euphorbia spiralis (by Andrea Randazzo, Italy) - is from Socotra.
It's growth is candelabra-like and it branches from the base. The plant grows 40-80 cm tall.
11.4.10
Robert S. - Australia
Can anyone help identify this Agave please? It has odd pale coloring but those are the colors.
Thanks very much.
28.3.10
Subject: Fairy Castle ID please
Michelle V. - USA
I just do not have any idea where to look for this identity. I have looked on the internet and through 3 of my cactus books and still can't figure it out.
This cactus is 2 1/2" W x 4" H. This is one that I split down the center. It was about 4 " W x 4" H before the split. Thanks so much.
Answer
This cactus is called the "Fairy Castle Cactus" .. and is also named in some places as Cereus tetragonus and Acanthocereus tetragonus. I think the latter is the more current name.
Thanks for the great photos.
19.3.10
Subject: Orchid cactus
Pam D.
I have 2 "orchid cactus". One bloomed about 8 years ago and never since. The other never. Recently I was told that they need to have a brief time at about 38F in order to encourage blooms. Is this true? I thought that they didn't like cold. They have always been in a cool room in winter till this year when we moved to SC. Now winter temp is 68-70 inside. What is best way to get them to bloom again?
AnswerSubject: Sansevieria ID and care
38F is too cold for most succulent plants. They prefer to be on the cool side in winter at around 50F-55F. The trigger to blooming has more to do with light than temperature. If you read my article it will tell you what to do about light, feeding, etc. http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
4.3.10
Margie M. - USA
I am new to Sansevieria having just bought my first one at Lowe's. The tag on the plant identified it as Gold Hahnii but all the images I have seen look nothing like the plant I have. It looks more like your picture of the "bacularis". If I take a picture and send it to you could you possibly identify it for me and tell me the proper care for it? It's in a small 4" container and the roots just barely show thru the bottom. It did look very close to the bacularis on your web site. I'm kinda of wondering if the stalks are just immature and haven't opened their leaves yet? They don't seemed to be bunched and look to be 3 singular shoots, a tiny one is also starting near the outer edge of the planter.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Answer
This is not a plant that has not opened its leaves yet. It doesn't have leaves like other sansevierias. What you see are the leaves for that plant.
I do not think it is the same as bacularis . I think from the markings it is more likely Sansevieria cylindrica var patula.
I suspect you have three rooted cuttings in that pot. I think the 4" pot is too small. I'd move the plant into a bigger pot if I were you. You can leave them as is in that bigger pot and as more shoots appear eventually have to put them into an even bigger pot but if you want to share with friends, you can remove the three, separate them and pot them up separately - into a 6 inch pot.
Sansevierias do not like direct sun although weak sun in winter months would be okay. They need very bright light. They will tolerate shade but not too much. Soil should be well draining and allowed to almost dry out between waterings.
Feed every couple of months in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer at half strength (20-20-20). Water much less in winter months and do not feed during that time.
I have found that some of my sansevierias tend to put on some growth and produce shoots in fall and early winter so if your plant starts doing that just prolong the growing season treatment during that time. Plants do what they want to do .. not always what we think they should do.
Let me know if you have further questions.
Additional Comment from Jerry Lehman, USA
I just read the question about the ID and care of the sans in the photo. I think you are correct on the ID. The reason the leaves are "bent" is that they are very commonly sold in small pots, as short (end of the leaf) leaf cuttings and braided. It looks like the braid opened, either by itself as the leaves grew and fattened, or whatever was holding the braid together is no longer there. These braided sans are a dime-a-dozen at box stores, grocery stores, and garden centers. They have taken the place of the "Lucky Bamboo," which, and don't get me started, is not bamboo. That is why you see the "yellow" markings...where the leaves were touching. The markings will turn green over time
7.3.10
Subject: Lithop seed viability
Allan M. - Philippines
I just found out that I had several starter lithops seed sets from South Africa, can they still germinate after 5 years inside the plastic bag?
More power and I am glad that Amatuer Digest is still on the web after all these years.
Answer
Lithops seeds can be viable for many months depending on how they are stored. Five years, however, sounds a rather long time to expect germination now. All you can do is try to germinate them. You should know within about 10 days if they are still viable.
4.3.10
Subject: When to repot
Richard H. - USA
When is the best time to repot summer growing succulents? winter growers? Is there an absolutely wrong time to do so?
Follow up reply
Thanks so much. It's an encouraging answer. Love the on-line "Amateurs' Digest."
Answer
Good question. You will get different advice from different people on this. Some say never repot when the plants are growing, only when dormant. Others will say you can re-pot any time. Waiting until the plants are dormant is difficult for people with large collections. How can you re-pot them all at the same time?
I have a very large collection. I re-pot at any time of year. I've been doing that for a great many years and have never had problems.
There are very few exceptions such as for Melocactus. They hate to ever be re-potted so when you do those you have to be ultra careful not to disturb the roots.
One thing I don't do is disturb any plants about to flower or in flower.
Let me know if I can help further relative to specific plants.
When to repot - another opinion - Jerry L. USA
I finally read the latest Digest issue. As always loaded with great tidbits. I think you and I touched on this before, as you did in the digest and here on our web site on the subject of repotting. I prefer to repot while the plants are actively growing. I believe in this as I don't own a greenhouse. The plants are all indoors for the winter, under lights in a spare bedroom for the "non-cold hardy plants," and in the (slightly heated, never below 40F) heated garage for the "cold hardy plants." My idea is that they are in survival mode for the winter. I have not had success in plant recovery from broken roots when they are not actively growing. And, if not watered-in, even after a week or so, the new or additional potting mix settles/shrinks too much. Plus, I can plan on and accommodate larger pot sizes as they come into the house.
4.3.10
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Sam S.. - USA
I came across The Amateurs' Digest website today and was pleasantly surprised to find so much information regarding Epiphyllums. I only wish I had this information many, many years earlier. I started my epi from a cutting about 25 years ago. For many years it was very slow growing, but eventually grew and flowered about 5-7 years after I started it. It is now very large, produces 5-10 flowers each July and August here in the Pacific NW. Flowers bloom one night and then fold up to drop off in a week or so. There is a lovely fragrance as the flowers open.
Epi1
I have great sentimental attachment to the plant. I started it from a cutting from my mothers plant, and hers was started in 1975 or so from a cutting from my brothers plant. So I can say that its been in the family for 35 years! However, from reading your Digest I can now see that I have been doing virtually everything wrong with respect to pruning and care. I was afraid to prune it for years for fear that I would harm the plant, but now I see why it has evolved into the large intertwined mess that it is.
epi2
It has always been leggy, I assume because we have low-E glazing and it is starved for light. But this year it seems to be putting out even more thin runners apparently seeking the skylights. It was last repotted about 10 years ago, and I want to repot it now. After reading your Digest I am uncertain how to proceed. I could
1.) remove some of the dying leaves and less healthy stems and place it in another 12 inch dia pot with new soil, or
2.) try to separate the 10-15 separate stems into two or more new 12 inch pots, or
3.) prune one or more healthy leaves and start a new plant or plants from that cutting, only this time adhere to your pruning guidelines.
I would like to have a more compact, lusher, greener plant with frequent blooms, but one that isnt trying to take over the living room. I am worried that separating the stems and roots would harm the plant. If I simply try to prune it back, I may only have stems left at this point. And, of course, I dont want to miss out on several seasons blooms
So I would be terrifically grateful to hear any suggestions from you that will help me maintain my plant (or its offspring) for another 25 years.
Should I prune off this year's crop of thin vertical runners?
Also, from the pictures, can you tell me my plants botanical name or type?
Thank you very much,
Answer
First of all let me ID your plant. It is Epiphyllum oxypetalum.
Secondly, with regard to those long stringy things .. this is the answer in my article elsewhere on my web site.
Why do some stems put out long stringy things and others do not? Should I cut them off? Those long stringy things are adventitious roots! It is quite natural for many epis to produce these roots. If they appear in large numbers, however, this may signal problems exist such as perhaps the plants may be too moist, too dry or in too much shade. The adventitious roots could be reaching for the moisture, light and even food that the plant is not receiving in sufficient quantities through watering, natural light and fertilizer.
When these adventitious roots appear, you should ask yourself if you are giving the plants enough water and/or fertilizer, if there is enough humidity around the plants and perhaps you should check the soil in the pot for signs of pest infestation which might be damaging the roots. Also, although these plants do better if a little pot bound, it is just as possible to underpot the plants which can also force roots to be produced along the stems.
You seem to have far more runners than might be natural for the plant so I would re-think the growing conditions that might be causing this. In this case I would remove some of them. For one thing if the plant has not been repotted into fresh soil mix for 10 years it is in soil that no longer has any nutrients.
Only you can know if the plant is getting enough light. They do not like full sun but if they have too little light you can see the results .. long, stringy stems (leaves).
I would like to suggest that you use plastic pots instead of clay. Clay is porous and moisture tends to wick out of the soil through the pot which does not happen with plants in plastic pots. Also roots gravitate to the inside of the clay pots and stick there like cement which makes it difficult to repot them without damaging the roots.
If you start again with cuttings it can be several years before you get flowers again. After it has finished flowering, you can unpot it and see how many fairly normal stems can be separated with their own roots .. and repot those into a fresh soil mix. I don't think you need a 12 inch pot. Six inches should be big enough for three or four re-potted stems. Remember epis prefer to be pot bound.
On the other hand since the entire plant is too stringy, cuttings would eventually produce a better shaped plant I think. So try as you may to get me to make the decision !!! it is really up to you which way to go.
Here's an idea. Start new plants from cuttings and leave what's left of the old plant to bloom again the next couple of years so you won't be without flowers .. but if you do that make sure you repot the old plant because it is certainly desperately in need of new soil. You could do some judicious pruning at the same time.
Thanks for sharing great photos with us. Let me know if I can help further
23.2.10
Subject: Epiphyllum grandilobum
Sue - USA
Have you a picture of Epiphyllum Grandilobum?
I have a plant that is supposed to be Epiphyllum Grandilobum but I need a 2nd opinion,
The stems are thick & it likes to be kept warm unlike the hybrids I have
Answer
Sorry. Don't have a picture - just the following description:
Epiphyllum grandilobum Britton & Rose
Synonyms: Phyllocactus grandilobus, Epiphyllum gigas
Very large branches are produced by this plant. They can be 25 centimeters (10 inches) wide, with deeply crenate margins. The flower is also huge, white, and nocturnal. These develop on a curved tube to about 26 centimeters (101/4 inches) wide, the style protruding beyond the stamens with many yellow stigma lobes.
This species is very difficult to flower outside its natural habitat.
Native to the rainforests of Costa Rica, and Panama, as well as the southernmost Caribbean islands (eastward to Trinidad and Tobago). The average monthly temperatures range from 23° to 27° Celsius (73° to 81° Fahrenheit). The rainy season extends from April to December.
E. grandilobum (Web.) Britt. & Rose. 1902. (E. gigas). Costa Rica, Panama. A vigorous vine to 300 feet or more, stems 15-25 cm wide, crenate. Flowers 32-38 cm long, 26-30 cm wide (one of the largest of cactus flowers).
15.2.10
Subject: Thelocactus flowering
Andy S. - USA
Any idea why my Thelocactus won't flower? I've had it three years
Answer
These cacti don't tend to flower when very young. Patience will be rewarded, however, with spectacular flowers.
15.2.10
Subject: Epi advice please
Barry S. - USA
So all my living dormant plants are located in a warmer location. Right now I own several Epi hybrid plants, a couple Desert Rose plants & one Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia Nicolai) plant. My main question thats been on my mind is how long does it take for an Epiphyllum or Epiphyllum Hybrid take to mature to start producing flower buds..?.. I've owned 2 Oxypetallum plants for atleast 4 or more years & haven't had any luck with flowering. Most of my other Epies are younger hybrids in which I am not concerned about at the present moment.
Could you please let me in on some good information that I can fallow to help me out?
Thank you sooooo much....
AnswerBarry S. - USA
I can't tell you how long it takes an Epi to mature. Much depends on whether it is grown from seed or a cutting or from a small plant and it also depends on many growing conditions. Plants in one of your photos look like they are getting lots of light. In the other they seem in too much shade. Difficult to tell just from pictures though.
Did you read my article on this site on how to grow epis? I think the following two paragraphs answer your particular questions.
My epi won't flower. Why not?
Epis need a period of several weeks at the end of winter when they should only have the same amount of light as light appears outside. These short days trigger flowering in spring for spring blooming species. This poses a problem for plants indoors which receive light from artificial lights in the house. You have to cover the plant at dusk and remove the cover next morning to give the short day effect. Another factor in blooming has to do with pot size. If the pot is too big a plant it will spend its time producing roots to fill the pot at the expense of concentrating on flowering.
Looking at the plants in your photos .. most are planted in pots way too big for the plants. Epis prefer to be root bound .. as mentioned above.
How much light do these plants need?
When sun reaches Epis in their natural environment, it is filtered down to them through the branches and leaves of the trees. They are never subjected to full sun. However, it is interesting to note that plants growing in very dense trees will be found growing high up in the trees where more light is available to them than would be available further down the tree. This tells us that while epis don't want full sun, they nevertheless need very bright light. In fact, if an epi is grown in too much shade, flowering will be poor or the plant may not flower at all. When you see recommendations for growing Epis in the shade, therefore, this does not mean you should put the plants in a dark area under the greenhouse bench.
In the specific case of Epiphyllum oxypetalum, it took about 4 years from small cuttings for my plant to produce flowers.
So since these epis need to be root bound then how can you tell from the roots being in the soil?
Answer
You can only tell when roots are pot bound when you unpot the plant and find the roots are tight packed in the pot. When the pot is too big the roots keep growing until they fill the big pot. If we take this plant of yours in the pink pot as an example, for the size of the plant the pot should not be bigger than 5 or 6 inches. Epis do not need all that extra soil.
If an Epiphyllum is in too large a pot roots will eventually (after a very long time) fill the big pot but in the meantime the plant is concentrating on growing roots at the expense of producing flowers.
You should unpot the plant, shake off as much of the old soil as possible and repot it into a five or six inch pot. If the plant has been in that big pot long enough to produce roots that spread out throughout the soil, cut back the root system so that it will now fit a 5 or 6 inch pot with fresh soil mix added.
Probably in a year's time (or two) when you unpot that plant in its now smaller pot, you will see the roots are tight packed against the pot all around. That is what is called pot bound roots. If the roots are really tight in the pot it may then need to be moved to a one size bigger pot. You can if necessary slice off one third of the roots when you repot which will allow you to add some fresh soil mix
26.1.10
Subject: Nursery question
Ed L. - USA
Do you know anything about Northridge Gardens?
Answer
I have heard they have been out of business for quite a while.
1.1.10
Subject: Idria columnaris
Rachel R - USA
Can you please tell me the correct name of the Boojum tree?
Answer
It is Idria columnaris
31.12.09
Subject: Kalanchoe
Dawn B. - USA
Please tell me how to propagate this plant.
Answer
Kalanchoes can be propagated by leaf cuttings. K. blossfeldiana often offered for sale by nurseries, is hardly worth propagating since it is hard to bring into bloom in the home and can be bought cheaply full of flower buds each year. They grow and flower in winter when they should be kept in a light, warm position. A cold greenhouse does not suit them.
31.12.09
Subject: Obregonia
Anonymous - France
I hear this cactus needs special care. Can you elaborate please?
Answer
This cactus has a tap root which means you need a pot deep enough to accommodate that root. It grows well and flowers freely if put in a sunny position. Be careful not to drown it with water. Let the soil almost dry out before watering again. Seedlings are often grafted but even when grafted the plant is a slow grower.
31.12.09
Subject: Root rot woes
Mick S. - USA
Hope you are keeping warm. And your plants too.
It's that time of year for root rot woes again. And some questions, if you don't mind.
1. I have an Aloe dichotoma, about 16 inches tall, and the roots rotted. Any suggestions on how to get it to root? Or is this as difficult as Aloe ramosissima?
2. I also have a Pachycormis discolor, 36" tall, and the roots really rotted. Is there any chance at all of rooting this thing? It is, or was, a really nice tree. Interestingly, it still has green leaves and stem growth on it.
Have a great new year!
Answer
Aloe
With regard to the Aloe, you can try taking a cutting. Make the cut close to the base. Let it dry out for a few weeks before potting up. Plant in soil that is at least 50% grit. It can take months to root, so be patient.
Pachycormus
Because this plant is slow growing, although it is a winter grower, extra care is needed not to give it too much water especially in colder weather. It has a tendency to rot off with too much watering.
You could try the same method as for Aloe above or take cuttings and try to root them.
Other than this advice I can't tell you much more.
The combination of thick trunk, papery bark and short, fine pinnate leaves is hard to beat; winter grower; often summer deciduous; in cashew family; full sun; don't over-water, especially in cold weather; slow growing; requires early pinching and pruning to induce branching and trunk-thickening; from Mexico. [Anacardiaceae; Sapindales]
31.12.09
Subject: Aloe bainesii
Jean-Pierre P. - France
Can you identify this Aloe for me?
Answer
From what I can see I think it's Aloe bainesii.
27.11.09
Subject: Disocactus (Nopalxochia) spotting
Geneva C.
The writers who shared problems with spotting on their Disocactus do not have any fungal or bacterial problem. That particular species inevitably develops spotting on the stems. It is considered a genetic tendency particular to Disocactus (Nopalxochia) phylanthoides or "German Empress".
17.11.09
Subject: Tylecodon reticulata
Anonymous - USA
How do you take care of this plant please?
Answer
This is a winter grower. It needs moderate warmth in winter and lots of light year round. Water and feed during winter months. In spring and summer when the plant is resting it needs less water and no feeding. Propagation by seeds and cuttings.
17.11.09
Subject: Sun and cactus
Marlene W. - USA
How much sun should my cactus have?
Answer
That depends on the cactus. Some need full sun all day long all year long. Others prefer filtered sun all day long all year long. Others will suffer in full sun but still need the brightest light possible.
It should be noted that even cacti that need the strongest sunshine possible will burn if there is not enough ventilation where they are grown.
7.11.09
Subject: Yellow leaves
Gordon B - USA
Why do stems and leaves of succulents turn yellow?
Answer
There are many possible causes, the chief ones being starvation, iron deficiency or diseased roots.
7.11.09
Subject: Scale insects
Arlene B. - UK
How do I know spots are from a scale insect or something else?
Answer
Scale insects can be removed by gently scraping them off the plant. Spots due to other causes cannot be removed without damaging the plant
7.11.09
Subject: Lophophora flowering
Loreen R - USA
Can you tell me when a Lophophora cactus should flower?
Answer
When it is mature the plant will usually flower in the months of April through September
7.11.09
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Maryann C. - USA
We recently enjoyed three nights of blooming of a four-year-old Epiphyllum Oxypetalum. This was the first year it produced so many blooms. We keep it outside during summer and it winters in a friend's greenhouse. We had an extremely rainy spring & summertime. Over summer, the plant produced two buds. On Aug. 7 & 8 we observed one open each night. In mid-September, the plant produced ten buds. Two fell off in late Sept., but eight continued to develop. When temperatures dropped, we brought the plant indoors and over three nights in October (18, 19, 20) we had blooming. The first night (night of the new moon) one bud opened. The second night, six buds opened. The third night, the last bud opened. Each evening was an exquisite display. We invited friends in to enjoy the experience.
I have several questions: Have you ever heard of a plant with more simultaneous blooming? Any recommendations on how to help the plant restore itself after this spectacular effort? Do you know what kind of creature, insect, etc. the plant is designed to attract to its fragrant and alluring blossom?
Also, do you know about the history of this plant in the United States? When, how, where it was introduced? Was it particularly popular at a certain time in history?
Thank you very much for your wonderful efforts on The Amateurs Digest. It provides very helpful information.
One more question, if I may...Would you happen to know the Spanish name for the Epiphyllum oxypetalum?
Answer
Sounds like your plant has outdone itself this year. This particular species does tend to produce many simultaneous blooms. I have not heard of other species which do that but that is not to say there are no others that produce multiple simultaneous flowers.
Epiphyllum oxypetalum occurs widely in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, El Salvador and Costa Rica. The origin of the plant is not known. The name Epiphyllum was first used in 1689. The genus Epiphyllum was described by Haworth in 1812. E. oxypetalum's date of introduction into the USA is not known.
When my plant has finished blooming I always give it a feeding to help it renew the energy spent on flowering.
Pollination of all night blooming flowers is by bats, moths or other night flying insects. Sometimes the flowers last well into the following morning when they can be pollinated by bees and other daytime flying insects.
It is called Nopalillo Criollo, Reina De La Noche
6.11.09
Subject: Opuntia
James N. - Canada
Hello, I am trying to identify a Cactus which I have started from seed. I do not recognize the plants growth habit as anything I have seen as yet. It appears to be flowering but with green soft spiky leaves and the body of the plant is flat tongue like, it also needs support as it tends to fall over which may be normal but I am used to Cactus that stand upright!
Answer
This plant is in the Opuntia family. It is not flowering. That's new growth you see on top. Eventually the 'leaves' will fall off.
Part of the plant looks flat and part looks circular .. which threw me off. I'd rather it be all circular as it would be easier to identify.
Is it possible the growth form is not quite what it should be? Have you been growing it in full sun (which it needs). Because if it was more circular I'd guess it was Austrocylindropuntia subulata. There are different genera in the Opuntia family. Not easy to ID something like that not in flower. If it tends to fall over you may be watering it too much. Hold off water through winter months and keep in a cool place.
I wish I could be more precise.
6.11.09
Subject: Chalky deposits
Marley R - USA
What are white chalky looking deposits on many of my plants? This is happening more and more and I'd like to get rid of it.
Answer
This is usually caused by calcareous water. Add a handful of peat and let it soak in 5 gallons of water or add one to two drops of nitric acid (from the drug store) in the water. Use this to water your plants. Alternatively use rain water.
30.9.09
Subject: Lack of flowering
Gordon R - Spain
I have a hard time getting any of my plants to produce flowers. Any ideas?
Answer
Your soil may be too rich in nitrogen or too low in phosphatic fertilizer or both. Most plants need a rest during the year (when depends on whether they are spring and summer or winter growers. Once you decide when they will enjoy a rest, make sure the temperature is not so warm that it encourages them to grow instead of to rest.
30.9.09
Subject: Buds falling off
Gordon R - USA
When I finally get a plant to produce flower buds, the buds fall off. What am I doing wrong?
Answer
There are several reasons this can happen. Plants moved to new locations once buds have formed. Plants sitting in a draft. Temperature goes down too low.
30.9.09
Subject: Corking
Jerry B. - USA
I have a couple of cacti with corky skin forming from roots upwards. Why does this happen? This happened with a Euphorbia once too.
Answer
This is often a sign of ageing and is also a normal characteristic of some species of plants. Sometimes the bottom of plants becomes brown and corky looking (but is not corky) and is the result of water washing up against the plant, water that is brownish from the soil in the pot.
30.9.09
Subject: Flies on the soil
Melanie N. - USA
Can you please tell me the easiest thing to do about little flies that hop around on top of the soil in my pots.
Answer
Let the soil totally dry out and leave it that way for several days. The flies feed on moist organic matter in the soil and if it's dry they won't be interested in staying there.
30.9.09
Subject: Euphorbia treatment
Bill B. - USA
I got a very bad reaction from euphorbia recently in my eye. I pulled some Euphorbia out with my bare hands, washed my hands quickly (not knowing the danger) and must have touched my eye later. I rinsed repeatedly with water, salted water, and milk. The milk was the best, but I still had pain that was very distracting to the point of not being able to relax at all. I then found a book on Google Books from 1909 that described medical uses of euphorbias. It said that the effects are lost if the substance is mixed with acetic acid. So I applied a vinegar with a cotton swab around my eye (and rinsed my lips and hands with it too). The pain stopped very quickly. I don't know if the substance is basic, but I am convinced that acetic acid detoxifies it.
Ed. Please note Bill says he swabbed "around" the eye and not "in" the eye.
10.9.09
Subject: EPI follow-up
Craig S. - USA
I have one confused plant, but as promised..I have attached a picture in bloom! The plant has had a stressful, hot dry Pacific Northwest summer and many days over 100 degrees. It only developed 1-bloom and I had given up for the year months ago. I first noticed the bud during the 3rd week of August, slow to develop with full bloom and center fully open occurring on Sept 24th. But now I at least know its color and that the bloom lasts longer than my cactus!
Any idea as to what name/variety?
Thanks for your help.
Answer
Now wasn't that worth the wait? A gorgeous flower and when it is spent you can admire the wonderful photo.
I cannot give you an ID. There are many hundreds of Epiphyllum hybrids and unless you know what was crossed with what, an ID cannot be possible.
Congratulations.
30.9.09
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Esmie M. - USA
I have a 6-ft. night bloomer (white) that flowers well for me. However, the flowers only last one night. They never re-open the following night. The comments I've read on your site suggest that they re-open. Any ideas why mine won't?
You have a wonderfully helpful site. Thank you for providing it.
Answer
Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos. The flowers on this plant do not re-open a second time. I wonder where on the site you saw the comments they do re-open?
I'm happy to hear you find out web site helpful.
26.9.09
Subject: kaktus photo
Ladislav T. - Slovakia
My name is Ladislav Tóth and I live in Slovakia. I am 27 year old and send my amateur kaktus photo.
Answer
Thank you very much for sharing the photo of your cactus. I see a flower bud at the top. I would be very interested to see the flower when it is fully open .. perhaps I could then identify the cactus for you.
24.9.09
Subject: Repotting huge cactus
Jill E. - USA
I have had a hanging cactus that looks like an epephyllum on your website, it bears 4-5" pink flowers once or twice a year that stay open day and night.
I enjoy putting my plants out in the warmer months, and now fall I bring them in as frosts have already come twice to southern vermont.
I will attempt to mail you some pictures...........my plant is 5' long and 28-30" wide, this year it has truly become a monster, it is in a clay pot, and I have no trouble with it. Occasionally I think of repotting it, but that thought does not last too long.......dont trouble trouble.
What are your thoughts on repotting such a huge cactus?
Answer
I often say if something works stay with it and if nothing seems wrong don't mess with Mother Nature. However .. that being said, there comes a time when all the nourishment in soil has gone and does nothing for the plant and repotting should be done to keep the plant healthy in the future. Usually with really monster size plants the easiest thing to do when the pot is clay is to break the pot to release the roots. With clay pots it's more difficult even if you break the pot because roots usually gravitate to the inside of the outside of the pot and stick there like glue. So you would have to scape them off the pieces of clay before you repot.
If you decide to let the feeling to repot pass for now .. as you say too much trouble trouble .. make sure you don't miss feeding the plant as it is probably getting no nourishment or very little from the soil now.
Hope this helps.
24.9.09
Subject: Toxic fumes from Pencil Cactus (Euphorbia tirucallii)
Priscilla U. - USA
Reading these stories, I just have to share my nightmare story of Pencil Cactus contamination has suddenly begun again. The noxious fumes from the sap has permeated my home, my office at work and now my new car . I was searching the net for help when I came across your site. I am at my wits end and need advice.
About 6 months ago, I trimmed the 4-ft. Pencil Cactus in my office because it was pushing against the ceiling tiles. I wore gloves and deposited the trimmed branches in a plastic bag and threw them away (labeling the bag "toxic"). The horror began then, when I started coughing even worse than usual - and I had had a persistent cough for about a year after I got this plant that I could not explain; I now believe it was low-level toxicity in the air from this plant. When I got home my face and arms were burning. I showered immediately but did not wash my hair, which had apparently brushed against the plant, because I continued to feel the burning after I went to bed. I found I had contaminated the bed linens and all the clothes I had worn, so I showered again, washed my hair, changed the sheets, and the next day washed everything I had touched, including the kitty. I had the plant removed from the office (the facilities manager smirked but sent someone to help me) and did not return for two weeks, airing it out with a powerful fan aimed out the windows. It was considered a joke at my workplace, and I joined in, but it is funny no more.
I thought it was over and returned to the office. I continued to have the fan on, however, and washed the walls and windows that had touched the plant. Soon afterwards, I got a new position and a new (smaller) office, so I moved only some items from the old one, which still contains most of my furniture and files. Two days ago I went to the old office which has been closed up for a few months. I was in there for about 5 minutes when my throat started burning and I began coughing violently. I concluded that the particles were still present in the air but had no idea that they were clinging to my hair and clothes. When I drove home, I inadvertently contaminated my NEW car - I know this because my husband began to cough as soon as he got in, and hos throat stings and burns too. I have now removed the mats and he washed every surface on the inside and vacuumed, but the toxic air is still not gone. I threw away the (new!) floor mats and the shoes I walked on the office carpet with. Tomorrow I will have the pollen filter changed and have the car professionally detailed. I have no idea whether it will work.
I am exhausted, exasperated and afraid of the negative health effects I have been reading about. I feel stinging in my throat as I type, but I have taken two showers already today and cannot stand another one. Bringing this poisonous plant into my life - and trying to get away from it - continues to have noxious consequences on my physical and emotional states (my husband and pet are also suffering because of me). New mats and professional detailing will also cost $$, but I would pay a LOT to be free of this plague.
Can anyone offer advice about how to get rid of the fumes in my car (not to mention the old office that has to be cleaned out)?
Answer
I am so sorry you have had such a bad experience with this Euphorbia. I have never heard of reactions as severe as these, or as lasting as these, especially the length of time the fumes from the plant have stayed around to cause problems.
All I can think of to remove any possible residual fumes from the air is to use a portable room size air cleaner. You can move the portables from one room to another. Honeywell has a variety of these at affordable prices including a couple of small ones with permanent filters. For the best advice on what to do about the car, I think explaining the problem to your car dealership would be your best bet.
14.9.09
Subject: Bromeliad pups
Allan G... - USA
You once said after you take off the pups from a bromeliad you can cut out and throw out the dying main plant. Exactly when do you do that?
Answer
You can remove the mother plant any time you think it looks pretty spent. However, there is always a chance the main plant will produce more pups so I leave mine alone until the last possible moment. I have many times been surprised by another pup coming along after I thought the mother plant was a lost cause.
23.8.09
Subject: Grafting an epi to a euphorbia
Jacques M.. - USA
I have what I believe is euphorbia ammak variegata growing happily in a north, west and east facing bay. Surrounding it are a number of younger and somewhat contented epis. Can I graft an epi onto the euphorbia? I will be happy to supply a photo of the euphorbia which has a very open-branched habit, perhaps because it is growing inside or perhaps because it is really an ammak. I will welcome your sage advice.
Answer
You cannot graft an epi (cactus) on to a Euphorbia. Sorry. I'd love to see the photo of your Euphorbia.
23.8.09
Subject: Bulbines
Don J. - USA
What are bulbines please? How do I look after them?
Answer
They are species of plants that come from South or south-west Africa. They look a little like aloes but have soft, fleshy leaves. Some species have tuberous roots. Flowers are small and mostly yellow.
They are winter growing so much less water should be given in summer months. Some shading from hot sun is recommended. Propagation is by seed or sometimes cuttings.
22.8.09
Subject: Best temperature for Stapeliads
Irene D. - USA
What is the best temperature for Stapeliads? I grow cacti in a greenhouse which I keep cold in winter.
Answer
For most species the absolute minimum temperature is 50F (10C). However, if you can keep them warmer in winter you will have much happier plants. If growing them warmer means you have to keep them in the house, keep in mind they must have the brightest light possible otherwise they will tend to become drawn and elongated.
22.8.09
Subject: Echeveria ID difficult to impossible
George W. - USA
I have a terrible time trying to identify my echeverias. I've spent hours on the internet trying to find out what I have without luck.
Answer
Echeverias not only readily hybridize among themselves but also with Dudleya, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum and Sedum. Such 'promiscuous' plants are always very difficult, if not impossible, to identify. The true species are pretty easy to find on the internet so maybe yours are tricky hybrids. If you can send me photos I'll try to help.
22.8.09
Subject: Kalanchoe questions
Anna W. - UK
I enjoy kalanchoes every year when they appear in the stores at Christmas time. However, although I've tried many times to keep the plants over for another year, they never flower and eventually die. Why is this?
Answer
The species you usually find available in stores is Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This plant is hardly worth trying to propagate since it is hard to bring into bloom again. Most plants of this species usually die after a while as has been your experience. Sorry.
Note: We have an article coming up in our Digest March 1 on the subject of kalanchoes with photos and descriptions of ten other species along with advice on how to grow and propagate them. Unlike K. blossfeldiana, these other species can successfully be kept and flowered year after year.
22.8.09
Subject: Watering Summer Dormant Plants
Gail G.. - USA
I'm a tad confused about sources that say not to water plants that are dormant in the summer despite the 80 to 90 degree temperatures we have here in New Jersey, USA. Won't the roots die in this heat? These are plants that are outside in containers, not planted in beds, so the roots in those containers are going to get hot, as well. Some of the plants I've read this about include aeoniums, lithops, "baby toes" and faucaria, and even agave as this is their rest period. I don't water my "desert" type cacti in the winter and they do fine, but the plants don't need evaporate water to cool themselves at that cold season. Would appreciate your thoughts on this one. Many thanks,
Answer
It can certainly be confusing about watering winter growers in spring and summer. They all must have water in hot temperatures or - you are right - the roots will die especially when it's very hot. The difference in watering is to water less often than you do your spring and summer growing plants. If you have plants that are highly succulent and worry about them rotting off, occasionally pour some water in the pot saucers and let the soil wick it up. That way you are not saturating all the soil but the soil gets enough water to keep the roots alive.
With regard to agaves. I have quite a number of these and I find they put on most growth and produce most pups in early spring to late spring. I've watched the pups grow slowly during summer months so I assume my big plants also put on 'some' growth during that time too. I water my agaves (thoroughly) as I do all my succulents right through until September and then I don't water them at all until the following early spring. I keep my greenhouse at 50F all winter. I am sure on some cold nights the temperature goes down to 45F. I see no growth at all during winter months at that temperature.
My large Aeonium does nothing all summer. The rosettes close up entirely during this time. I water it thoroughly about once a month in spring and summer. Depending on hot hot it is I may only water it once in two months. More in fall and winter. Lithops I give a little water about once every two weeks in spring and summer. I grow them in almost pure grit so the water that flows into the grit doesn't last long enough to rot the plants but is enough to keep the roots alive. I no longer have 'baby toes' (Frithia) (also the common name for Fenestraria) now or Faucaria but when I did have them I used the water in the pot saucer method all summer and watered them well in fall and winter.
As you already know, winter growers have to have some heat in winter months. That is not easy or inexpensive when you have them in a greenhouse as I do. I do find 50F is about ideal because after all when there are sunny days the greenhouse warms up quite a bit. Often in nature the plants do face some chilly nights. They are hardier than we sometimes think they are.
One last thought. Over many years (I refuse to say how many and date myself) .. I've tried growing cacti and succulents in both plastic and clay pots. I decided plastic was the way to go because the soil doesn't dry out as fast as it does in clay pots which are highly porous. Heat entering the clay can burn the roots. Since the roots in clay pots navigate themselves to the insides of the clay pot and stick there, the heat entering the clay pot burns them quickly. And .. when you come to repot you have the problem of breaking all those roots stuck to the inside of the clay pots. I have a shed full of clay pots and would not use them if you paid me.
I hope this helps. Let me now if you have other specific questions I haven't covered.
21.8.09
Subject: Plant IDs
Gail G. - Canada
I spent a few minutes enjoying all the comments by other succulent growers on your website and think I might have IDs of a couple of the plants. For Jerry Dowding, the photos of his Ferocactus look like a young Thelocactus bicolor, commonly called Glory of Texas or Straw Spine Cactus. The classification might have changed; its hard to keep up, and there are several varieties. The spines are lovely and form a pattern of white spines and burgundy spines. The flower is just as impressive; my cactus bloomed this year with a flower almost a large as it is. I couldn't see many other details and am no expert, so this is just based on that special spination.
For Jurgen & Rosi Lenz in Australia, their plant has a distinctive "baby's fist" that says "Delosperma" (commonly called iceplant) to me (look in the middle of the photo, a bit to the left). After it flowers, the plant seems to contract and cover over the seed, making what looks like a tiny "fist". Delosperma cooperi has the longer leaves that appear to match the photo; it has magenta flowers. There are several species and cultivars, of course, with various sizes of leaves and flower color, so that's just a guess. Hope it's helpful.
Rosi & Jurgen Lenz, Australia
Thank you for your feedback on our mystery plant .. however, the flowering period of Delosperma is not right.
15.8.09
Subject: Monvillea spegazzinii
Gayle M. - Canada
I love your online magazine. I have been a collector or cactus/succulents for many years, especially agaves and aloes. But, my question is about a cactus I purchased about 3 years ago at the Vancouver Cacti Show. I am sending you a photo of a partial branch with a flower bud on it. When I bought it, it was about 6 tall, now it is 4 tall. The flower must be a night bloomer as the bud grew and then one morning it looked like it was spent, never did see the flower. I am hopeful that another collector will be able to ID this plant for me.
Thank you and keep up the great work!
Answer
Nice to hear from you and thank you letting me know you enjoy our on line Digest. Much more coming as issues build for our next Volume starting September 1st. The cactus with the flower you didn't get to see is, I believe, Monvillea spegazzinii. It is listed in my most current reference The Cactus Family as Cereus spegazzinii. The flower is creamy white, externally pale pink or reddish about 13 cm long. This cactus is from Paraguay.
26.7.09
Subject: Scab on Orchid Cactus
Lois E. - USA
You have no idea how delighted I was to find your wonderful web site with FINALLY some REAL information about what I have been calling my orchid cactus. Our family has had what I always called the "Family Plant" over several generations and two continents. I believe the first start came to the USA with my Danish grandmother when she visited Denmark in the early 20th century. It seemed that every time someone visited one direction or the other a start of this plant went with them, traveling back and forth between Denmark and the US. That plant had large red blossoms.
About twenty years ago I saw a beautiful plant LOADED with pink flowers (smaller blooms) at a nursery just before Mother's Day. I purchased it for my mother. She had it on her patio next to the red flowering plant. Lo and behold the pink flowering plant produced a fruit! Being a plant lover from way back I took it when it split open and started as many as I could. I ended up with about six plants that looked just like the red flowering plant, but when they started blooming I noticed that one of them seemed to bloom more than the others so I gave the others all away and kept that one. Then, one day I noticed a pink bud in the middle of the plant. On closer inspection I discovered a second plant. Of course I removed it and put it in a second pot.
I had been putting the plants out on our deck in summer and bringing them back into the house in the fall. They were doing well. Then disaster hit! Last fall when I brought the plants in they had been hit with a horrible case of what I believe is scab! The pink one was so bad that I rescued some healthy-looking stems and re-started them and threw the plant out. Curiously, these stems are branching, which they didn't do before. The red one didn't have as bad an infestation but it has gotten worse. I was in a state of depression about this when I found your information.
I kept the affected plant inside this year, partly because it is too big to carry back and forth and partly because of its problem. It seems to like the north window location but this year, instead of setting tons of buds all at once it has been blooming a few at a time for almost four months now. It sets the buds facing the window and I just keep rotating the plant. I can live with that as I enjoy every one.
I didn't know how to treat the scab, if that is what it is, barring out and out removal and it was getting too prevalent! Now, thanks to your article I have pruned the plant, watered it with liquid fertilizer and sprayed it good with your alcohol-water mixture. Did I do the right thing? Also, I would appreciate any further advice you might have for me.
Answer
I'm happy you found our web site useful., Lois. Sorry but some of your photos didn't come out too well but those that did I'm showing here for all to enjoy. You seem to be doing everything right. As for additional advice, an alcohol and water spray is to kill bugs, not scab. Removing the affected leaves (stems) as you did was the right way to go. About rotating the plant, once flower buds form the plant should never be moved because doing that risks the buds dropping off.
26.7.09
Subject: Have plant, need name
Jürgen & Rosi L. - Australia
We bought this plant with the label identifying it as Lampranthus .. which it is not. We wonder if anyone can help us with the correct ID. Thanks very much.
Please contact amdigest@islandnet.com if you can help
24.7.09
Subject: No sunshine for some plants
Doreen L. - USA
Just how much light do plants need that should not be grown in full sun?
Answer
People often assume no sun means shade. That is not true. All plants need the brightest light possible. Those that don't like full sun also need the brightest light possible while being kept away from direct sunshine. The same plants will tolerate some sun in winter months when sunshine is far weaker than it is in spring and summer months.
9.7.09
Subject: Flowering Times
Gordon R. - USA
Can you tell me at what times of year do these plants flower? Leuchtenbergia, Lophophora, Coryphantha
Answer
Assuming they are mature enough to flower:
Leuchtenbergia - July, August, September
Lophophora - April through September
Coryphantha - July, August, September
Keep in mind what plants are supposed to do is not always what they decide to do. Growing conditions can affect many changes in plant growth and flowering.
9.7.09
Subject: Euphorbia tirucallii (pencil plant) burning rash
R. S. - USA
After seeing a well pruned "finger plant "at the arboretum on Catalina Island I decided to prune ours which we had always called a pencil plant. For many years we had it as a house plant, then moved it to the porch in a larger pot and finally to the ground in the front yard where it has grown quite large. I've done the repotting in the past, did get the sap on me but not a lot and always washed it off fairly soon. I didn't know it was toxic. This time I really pruned the tree which is 7 feet or so tall and was very dense. It was a nice day I was shirtless and in shorts but had gloves and sun glasses on. I didn't clean up till after eating lunch. The sap by then had dried and gathered some dirt to boot. I showered but the sap remained on my skin. I used some of my wife's Nuetregena Sesame formula body oil which I'd used before to remove sticky stuff.
It wasn't long before my arms started burning, and continued to do so until I got home and showered again and even then it continued and a rash appeared as well. I took a couple of OTC benadryl and went to bed. In the morning the rash was still visible but not the burning. This is the third day and I still have the rash and some mild blistering. . As luck would have it my annual visit to the dermatologist is tomorrow so I'll have more for him to see than just all my "age related" issues! Your web site was very informative. By the way the tree looks a lot better after the pruning!
Answer
Thank you for sharing your experience with us. There are some people who discount the dangers of euphorbias and your story is just one more proof of how careful we have to be around these plants. Thank goodness you had glasses on which avoided any of the white sap getting in your eyes.
Here's hoping your doctor can suggest something that will clear up the rash sooner than later.
29.6.09
Subject: Have plant, need name
Yvonne M. - USA
Just today I found out the name of this plant which I have in my posession, and began my learning about what I have done right, and otherwise! Thanks to you for the information I read on your website.
a.. It has been indoors for 6-7 years after being "gifted" to me in near-death condition.
b.. It spent this past winter in a south window in my basement.
c.. A few weeks ago I noticed a bud, and now am enjoying this beautiful flower.
Answer
This looks like the flower of Disocactus phyllanthoides - formerly Nopalxochia phyllanthoides. It is said this plant first flowered in the garden of Château de Malmaison, belonging to the late Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais which would explain some of the popular names such as German Empress, Deutsche Kaiserin, Giant Empress, Drottningkaktus (Swedish for Queen's Cactus). This story could be a myth, however.
This cactus was called Nopalxochitl by the Aztecs with explains the former generic name Nopalxochia.
The soil should be on the acid side and the plant be given regular water and doses of fertilizer in summer. Best kept relatively cool and dry in winter, 10-15°C (50-59°F). Plants can flower more than once a year but main flowering time is spring.
Repot into fresh soil every couple of years. Some shade in spring and summer should be given to protect from direct sun. Sunshine in winter when the sun is not as strong is okay.
Nice photos, Yvonne. Thanks for sharing.
23.6.09
Subject: Astrophytum capricorne care
Eliza A. - USA
I have a little cactus that was identified as a hybrid of the Astrophytum capricorne, I have two questions concerning the care of my cactus; I know it needs a lot of direct sun light but lately it has been losing its color along the base, instead of a somewhat dark green it is a lot lighter, is some thing wrong? and how can I correct it? the other questions is whether it truly is safe in direct sun light since it in a little black pot, I'm worried that the root system might over heat.
Answer
It's very difficult for me to know if something is wrong without being able to see the problem in this case. It may not even be a problem. Sometimes in watering the base of a plant gets splashed with a little dust or soil from the soil and that can discolor the base of the plant. If it's a matter of rot beginning then the base will be soft to the touch.
With regard to the pot, this plant has what we call a taproot. A taproot is a somewhat straight tapering root that grows vertically downward. It forms a center from which other roots sprout sideways. Plants with a taproot need a pot that is deeper than wider to give that taproot space to grow. I think that is more important than the color of the pot.
All astrophytums need a sunny situation and a prolonged period being dry at lower temperatures in winter if they are to be at their best during the summer and produce a good show of flowers.
Great care should be taken not to over water them because of their long, fleshy taproot which will rot if the soil remains wet for too long a time.
If you could take a photo of the base of the plant so I could see what it looks like I might be able to help further.
7.6.09
Subject: Plants that don't need direct sunshine
Maria L. - USA
I am just starting a succulent collection. I don't have a place with full sun. Can you recommend a couple of succulent plants that would do okay without sun?
Answer
I'm not sure if you plan to include some cacti in your collection as well as some of the "other" succulents. If you include cacti you could try Rebutia, Gymnocalycium, Epiphyllums and hybrids. In the other succulents Haworthia, Gasteria and Aloe do well in bright light but not full sun. Succulents not wanting full sun nevertheless need very bright light.
3.6.09
Subject: Print Issues availability
Norm W. - USA
I recently subscribed to your Digest. The issues are absolutely wonderful. I'm saving all of them to read many times over. Do you have any back issues available from when they were in print?
Answer
I am pleased that you are pleased. Sorry to say I have no back issues available. Once sold out they were not printed again. The cost to do that and the increasing cost of postage just did not make it feasible.
3.6.09
Subject: Deadheading a euphorbia
Rosalie B. - USA
Thanks for your website.
The donkey tail one (myrsinites) I deadheaded last night must be the cause of the red patch on my face this morning (I was brushing my hair off my face while working).
Your website came up as soon as I googled what I thought the cause might be, and it highlighted some interesting info on this particular euphorbia. I didn't know it was one of the more poisonous ones.
I'll live with the rash a while before going to a doc, and see if it goes away It was good to read about this.
More careful next time! Thanks !
Update
As mentioned below, the morning after contact with the donkey tail
euphorbia - red welts on the side of my face, tender, rough prickly
skin, though not stinging like nettles.
Day 2 better, welts died down, skin not as prickly.
Day 3 more improvement, still patchy red, but skin feel more normal.
Much better.
I never put a thing on it, no cortisone cream nor ice....
Good thing I didn't rub my eyes with my hand!
Answer
I'm so sorry that happened to you. Hopefully the rash will settle and go away soon.
Let me know how you make out will you? It will be interesting to know. Very happy we had the information you wanted.
2.6.09
Subject: Repotting
Linda O - USA
I have 2 or 3 Epis that I think really need to be repotted.
1) When is the best time to repot (they do not appear to be trying to flower at all)
2) Can I pot the plant together in one pot?
I need to repot them mostly because I don't think they have much soil left. They have been in the same pots for about 8 years. A lot of the stems are drying out also.
Thank you for your help and your great website.
Answer
Epis prefer to be pot bound. Why do you think they need repotting? Can you send me a photo?
Maybe they are not flowering for other reasons. You can find those reasons in the article I have on this web site. Did you see it?
You can really repot them any time if you don't disturb the roots too much. You can put them all in one pot but you may be sorry later. They look much better allowed to grow on their own to their own natural shape.
I'm afraid your plants are in very bad condition and that's why they don't flower. They look like they have burned up/dried out in sunshine. These plants should never be put in direct sun.
They should be repotted every two or three years at the most into fresh soil mix. All plants need food and soil that old has nothing left in it to feed the plants. I think at this point all you can do it take cuttings of any 'green' stems, let the cut end dry up and callous over and pot up and hope they root .. to start new plants.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sun. Mist them until they root. Then read my article on Orchid Cacti and that will explain how to take care of them after that.
Good luck.
2.6.09
Subject: Long stems
K.H. - USA
I found youre Epi website - hope you are still answering questions!
I have two Epi's - both growing in near a south facing window in Oregon - where they get a bit of direct light through the window, but mostly are in bright shade (been a cloudy, rainy spring as is usual for here).
Both my plants are growing happily, but have stems that are getting way out of hand at a meter long or more, with leaves at the end. If they keep the way they're going I will have to throw them out - I'm out of room. What do I do?
Answer
Bright shade is not enough light consequently the plant is stretching out as it grows, looking for more light. It is called etiolation. The fact that both epis are doing the same thing rather confirms that must be the problem
27.5.09
Subject: Growing from seed
Logan M. - USA
I am sorry to be bugging you again, but I have this question that I have asked on another forum and 1. No one can answer it or 2. No one bothered to try. I figured I would ask you and see if you had any idea. Even if I get an "I have not got a clue" it would be more than I have already gotten. So my question is: Ok, so I have about 3 aerogardens for strictly starting seeds. I began having way to many problems with fungus that I was spending more time and money with trying to treat the fungus and it was more time/cost effective to make the investment and buy an aerogarden. That being said, I have an addiction with buying plants more specifically seeds of succulents with caudices. My question is, do you think I would be able to start succulent seeds hydroponically? Keep in mind that they would not remain in the aerogarden indefinitely, so eventually they would have to be transferred to soil.
Answer
I never feel you are bugging me.
You can start seeds hydroponically .. BUT .. plants that start growing hydroponically and are then put into soil do not do as well as those started in soil and left there to grow on. The seedlings should be a good size before moving to individual pots. Most plants that get used to one environment prefer not to be moved to another environment, especially when they are delicate seedlings.
Lack of proper air circulation is the most frequent reason for fungus forming. When I grow from seeds, the minute they germinate I leave them in the air without a cover. Sometimes that's tricky if the seeds don't all germinate all at once but it certainly helps prevent many problems including damping off.
For seeds with hard coats, to get them to germinate faster, freeze them for 24 hours to help break down the hard coat and let moisture in.
Let me know if I can help further.
21.5.09
Subject: Orchid cactus growths
Priscilla P. - USA
You have a super site--lots of useful info. I am curious about my orchid cactus. It has triangular branches and lots of tiny spines. Also at the ends of some of the branches smallish pencil like fuzzy things are growing. One of them looks like it is going to turn into a 3 sided extension of the branch but others are only an inch long and have stayed that way for a couple of seasons. The plant has been such a joy to see bloom.
Answer
Thanks for the nice comments.
I have the impression from the photos you sent that while the plant is healthy and blooming right now, it could do with more light. It is quite far from the windows and the stems appear to be shaded quite a bit. Insufficient light might be the reason why new skinny growth is appearing at the end of some stems.
New growth can also start at the ends of stems that have had their growing point broken by even the slightest injury such as chopping off a flower.
21.5.09
Subject: Jatropha integerrima
Logan M. - USA
I think I suffer from obsessive compulsive disorder of some kind, because this year I decided I would grow lots and lots of succulents. Over all I have been very successful so far. My question is, I bought some Jatropha Interregrima online. The other varieties I bought are thriving, but my Interregrimas are not. All of them have dropped their leaves and are just sticks poking out of the soil. I am hoping they just dropped their leaves and are going to start coming back in a few weeks, but I wanted to get some ideas from another person. Thanks in advance!
PS Awesome site! I am going to have to subscribe.
Answer
Just in case you are searching elsewhere for information, you might have better luck with the right spelling of the species name .. which should be "integerrima".
This plant normally has a rest in winter months and will go dormant dropping its leaves. It's kind of late for this to be happening now but if you had them shipped to you by mail, sometimes when plants go through a period of being in a dark box while being shipped by mail .. this period of darkness can trigger dormancy at any time.
There could be other reasons too such as the plants were not healthy to begin with. Assuming you bought them from a reputable person/dealer and the plants have just gone dormant again, there is no way to tell when they will come back into leaf. Keep them separate from the others, in a bright place and hold off watering until you see signs of life.
Glad you find our web site helpful and I look forward to having you share much more information in our on line Digest issues.
Jerry Lehmann, USA
I just read the question about Jatropha integerrima. I have had that plant in the past, and we use it for work as a disposable summer seasonal color plant. It does great in our heat, sun and humidity. It is a very profuse flowering plant over the summer. However, the few times I tried to over winter it indoors...it just craps out. Dead by spring. However, my huge clump of J. multifida just loses leaves. Looks like a pot-o-sticks by mid winter, and stays that way until it goes outside in the spring. I think J. integerrima is not as "succulent" as people are lead to believe.
14.5.09
Subject: Sansevieria and air pollutants
Tena B.- Indonesia
I am currently living in Indonesia and am looking for information on sansevieria trifasciata (known here has mother-in-laws tongue) but I am not sure exactly which cultivar. Apparently there has been a study showing that this plant absorbs pollutants. Do you know anything about this or know where I could find the information about it? Thanks so much.
Answer
Sansevieria was one of the plants included in a 2-year experiment performed by NASA to study a plant's ability to reduce air pollution. They found that certain tropical plants, commonly used as houseplants, were quite effective in removing formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethane from the air and replacing it with breathable oxygen. Related information may be found at: http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/ssctrs.ssc.nasa.gov/foliage_air/foliage_ai r.pdf
The Sansevieria was voted the Office Plant of the Year 2008 by the Dutch National Health Institute NIGZ, TNO Quality of Life and Applied Plant and Environment Research PPO. The panel of experts judged that "not only is the Sansevieria air purifying, but also nearly indestructible."
Research has shown that Sansevieria and can absorb more than 80% of the interior of harmful gases, Research conducted by Wolverton Environmental Services, Inc. and supported by the Plants for Clean Air Council in Mitchellville, Maryland, continues to expand on the research begun at NASA. Specifically, they are trying to understand how plants clean and revitalize the air and how to use this knowledge to improve indoor air quality.
I hope this is helpful.
13.5.09
Subject: Bromeliad questions
Marlena W. - USA
I was told bromeliads die after they produce pups. Is that true? I was also told they only produce pups after flowering. Is that true?
Answer
Yes, a bromeliad that produces pups will begin to deteriorate and eventually die. Once the pups are a good size you can simply cut out the mother plant when it doesn't look very nice any more.
Most bromeliads produce pups only after flowering but as I've seen in my own collection, many also produce pups without having flowered.
Part of my bromeliad collection
Plants & Photo: Marina Welham
3.5.09
Subject: Cryptocereus anthonyanus
Roman B. - USA
I have had the plant for 40 years, first in Minnesota, now in Colorado. During the early years when we cared for it properly it would have more than 100 blossoms. Now it might have from a dozen to 50 blossoms. This year because I repotted it at the wrong time it has only this double blossom.
Answer
Great photo. Thank you.
This is NOT an Orchid Cactus (Epiphyllum). It is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (earlier also called Selenicereus anthonyanus).
It is a cactus species native to southern Mexico. Common names are: Fish Bone Cactus, Rick Rack Cactus, Zig-zag cactus.
28.4.09
Subject: Orchid Cactus
Coralie - USA
Hi there. I have found your web site by web surfing and would like to share a beautiful photo of one of my epis. I am certain that it is 'showboat'. This is the first time it has flowered for about 3 yrs and am looking forward to its next lot of flowers.
19.4.09
Subject: Named Varieties
Jerry G. - USA
You have a great website.
I wondered if you are familiar with any formal procedures for officially naming a new variety should I develop an interesting cross of two Epis. I'm also not familiar with legal restrictions for vegetative reproduction of named varieties for sale. I see it a lot.
Answer
Thanks for the nice compliment.
The naming of a cultivar should conform to the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (the ICNCP, commonly known as the Cultivated Plant Code). http://www.ishs.org/sci/icracpco.htm
Information on legal restrictions is available in this PDF file on line: http://www.fao.org/Legal/Prs-OL/lpo31.pdf
14.4.09
Subject: Ferocactus ID
Marina - Canada
Plant & Photo: Jerry Dowding, Canada
If anyone can help identify this Ferocactus, I would be extremely grateful.
Please reply to: amdigest@islandnet.com
8.4.09
Subject: Epi in the trash
Ed. Comment:
Marina:
This was his reply.
And this is what I suggested to him:
Bob H. - USA
Epi Expert!
Can you help me identify this plant I picked out of someone's trash today? I suspect an epi, maybe an epi seance but I don't know for sure as I've not seen a flower.
The stems are old and quite woody and it's quite root bound. How would you recommend I procede? I NEVER toss a plant so that's not an option.
Thanks very much
Answer
I'm not an Epi Expert!! Just an experienced hobbyist. It is impossible to ID the plant without seeing the flower and even then, because there are so many hybrids, an ID would have to be just a guess. It is, however, an Epiphyllum (true species) or Epi hybrid. On the plus side, half the fun of growing it is the anticipation of what the flowers will look like!
The plant looks healthy enough. The woody stems don't look too bad. Probably the result of age. And they don't ruin the look of the plant so I wouldn't worry about them. If you think the plant would look better by removing a few of the stems, you can do that too.
Rootbound is good because these plants prefer to be rootbound but it might have been in the same soil for years so I would suggest you re-pot it into a fresh soil mix. I would slice off about 1/3 of the roots when you do this, loosen and shake off as much of the old soil as you can from the rest of the roots and pot into a fresh mix. Do not use a bigger pot.
If you slice off some roots, don't water the plant for a week or two to give the injured roots chance to heal.
For instructions on care please read my article here: http://www.theamateursdigest.com/epis.htm
If you run into a specific problem, let me know and I'll try to help further.
Nice 'find', Bob.
1.4.09
Subject: Inherited epi - what does it need?
Angie - USA
I recently inherited this plant from my grandmother and I'm not sure
what it needs. It is in a plastic nursery pot inside the bucket and
the soil feels quite sandy. I have read over your site and it seems
that I need to trim out the dead stems, and repot in a smaller pot
with a different mixture. The plant has some mealy bugs and has never
bloomed to my knowledge, except for once many, many years ago. The
plant is very old and I would hate to do too much to it at once. The
leaves are a little withery as well. Could you advise me? I would
hate to lose it because of the sentiment attached.
Thank you for your time.
Answer
If this was my plant I'd do something drastic. I'd take cuttings and start new plants. Believe it or not if you do that you will probably get flowers next year. I planted cuttings of all my epis last year and every one has a flower bud on it right now. However, my plants get total light from morning to night in a bright greenhouse. This high light (no direct sun) is important for healthy plants that will flower and not produce more stems than leaves. Actually the leaves are more correctly called stems but I use leaves here to differentiate from the hard stems I see.
Looking at your photos I can't imagine how you could prune the plant and end up with a nice looking plant. There are just too many old 'stems' throughout.
A benefit to taking cuttings and starting anew is that you can get rid of the mealy bugs which, after all this time, are probably down in the roots too. You'd take the cuttings and wash them off well. You can either pot them individually and let them develop into mature plants or you can pot them three or four in a pot around the edge of the pot. A 4 in. pot for each cutting is big enough. A 5" pot for several would be adequate. Using fresh soil mix will mean you start out with clean soil and no bugs. Believe me it is less work to do that than try to eradicate a mealy bug problem which probably has been of long standing.
Withery leaves could be caused by insufficient watering .. or if enough watering the roots are not taking up the moisture which could be due to pests in the soil at the roots. Here again, taking cuttings will allow you to select the best leaves to root and toss out the rest (where they won't be able to contaminate any other plants or cuttings).
From what I see in your photos the plant needs more light. To have one side of the plant at the window and the other in the darker room .. creates a lack of light situation.
If you will read my article on Orchid Cacti it will tell you what soil you need, how to water, light requirements, fertilizer etc. If you follow those directions your plant (or cuttings) will flower next year.
So long as you have some healthy leaves on the plant and can take cuttings you will never lose the plant. If you let it go with the bugs and the withering .. you could lose it down the road.
Good luck.
30.3.09
Subject: Epis and sun/shade
Sheila - USA
I found your site researching light requirements. Everyone in my family has an epi-all cuttings from the "mother plant" and courtesy of my brother. I have always hung mine at the very edge of a covered patio, as soon as the last frost was over, in the sun. One year I lost half of my plant to a surprise early frost. This year they are hung way back next to the house, and already budding, much to my surprise, as they have more shade. I may leave them where they are and see how they do without direct sun. Thanks for all of the advice and beautiful photos. Please fee free to post my photos if you wish.
Answer
Thanks for the nice photos. In one of them I notice some of the leaves on your plant have turned quite yellow. This is one indication the plant does not enjoy full sun.
23.3.09
Subject: Support for Night Blooming Cereus
Linda M. - USA
In the past, I have moved my Night Blooming Cereus from outside under a live oak tree in summer to inside the dining room in the winter. We have now decided that it is so large that it must stay outside and, hopefully, we will be able to construct some sort of safe winter environment for it. We live in San Antonio, TX.
The problem is how to support it and protect it from summer winds and breezes in an as attractive manner as possible. It is clearly visible from both the patio and the dining room and quite a conversation piece. Do you have any pictures or suggestions for this construction? So far, all my ideas seem unsatisfactory for one reason or another. Thank you.
Answer
Yes it is Epiphylum oxypetalum.
Sorry to tell you but leaving it outdoors in winter is very risky unless it is in greenhouse where you can add heat if you have a run of cold weather. Epis are tropical plants which need warmth year round. The best minimum winter temperature would be around 50-55F. While the plant should never be allowed to totally dry out, if it is cold as well as wet this will invite rot to set in.
You may have to prune the plant back to reasonable size so you can bring it in for winter months. You would have enough nice cuttings to create a whole new plant. It's fun to have such a big plant but keep in mind if the plant puts all its strength into growing more and more new stems (leaves), it might not produce as many flowers.
Breezes won't harm the plant in warm weather but very windy areas should be avoided.
4.3.09
Subject: Cats!!
Gerie G. - USA
Several years ago I moved from Santa Barbara, Calif. (where I specialized in Epis. and "antique" roses & terriers -NO house plants) to Humboldt Co. in northern Calif. I am in an apartment, with good light (several hours of direct sun) in the winter & bright (no direct sunlight) in the summer. We are allowed cats-no dogs & except for three large containers, no gardening outside. So, I have my first cat. Until the Bengal arrived, I was beginning to enjoy the novelty of house plants! However, after consulting the "toxic-to-cats" list from Davis University, I had to give up 75% of them. There are several lists of "toxic to animals" available but nowhere are Epis listed. Do you or your "followers" have any info regarding this question? Also, am I in a state of delusion believing in the successful possibility of flowering Epis inside?
Also, I wish to say that after nearly 40 years of gardening & spending several thousand dollars (really!) on magazine subscriptions & garden/gardening books, I have never seen anything to match your website; so generous, so dense & complete!!! Bravo!
Namaste, Gerie G.
Answer
Epis themselves are not toxic to animals. However, any plant treated with an insecticide (including systemics) may be toxic to animals even if that plant is listed somewhere as being not toxic. The same applies to the soil in which plants are planted. A cat or bird or dog might become curious about the soil/grit, etc. and nose or paw around in it. If you can be sure your plant has not been pesticide treated .. then you have nothing to worry about. It's best to stay away from pesticides in any event because even if you spray the stems you could kill the plant.
You should be able to flower your plant in the house providing there is enough light because while epis don't like direct sun they need as much bright light as they can get. Epis can flower at different times of the year but most bloom in spring. Most hybrids bloom anywhere from about the end of February through April, May and June. A few hybrids bloom later than that as do the true Epiphyllum species. The lengthening days in spring encourage growth and flowering so don't close the blinds in the house until the daylight outside has gone and hopefully you are up in the morning early enough to open the blinds the moment daylight sets in. Or just leave the blind open at the window near where the plant is and let nature handle the rest.
If you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or it may suffer bud drop.
I look forward to a photo of your flowering plant!
As for your wonderful comments about our web site .. thank you for making my day. I'll try not to let my head swell up too much!!!
You will find more questions and answers on Epis (Orchid Cacti) in the article on the subject on this web site .. or you can ask me questions any time and I'll try to help.
You will have noticed the interesting salutation at the end of the last question and answer-"Namaste". The story behind it is even more interesting so I thought I'd share it with you. Wikipedia states:
Namasté, Namaskar or Namaskaram is a common spoken greeting or salutation in the Indian subcontinent. Taken literally, it means "I bow to you". The word is derived from Sanskrit (namas): to bow, obeisance, reverential salutation, and (te): "to you".[1] Namaskar is considered a slightly more formal version than namasté but both express deep respect. It is commonly used in India and Nepal by Hindus, Jains and Buddhists, and many continue to use this outside the Indian subcontinent.
When spoken to another person, it is commonly accompanied by a slight bow made with hands pressed together, palms touching and fingers pointed upwards, in front of the chest. The gesture can also be performed wordlessly and carry the same meaning.
In Indian and Nepali culture, the word is spoken at the beginning of written or verbal communication. However, upon departure the only the wordless hands-folded gesture is made.
In yoga, namasté is said to mean "The light in me honors the light in you," as spoken by both the yoga instructor and yoga students.
Subject: EPI advice please
Sonia C. - Canada
I have a beautiful epi plant that blooms with hundreds of flowers in
the spring. I just discovered mealy bugs which I used alcohol to get
rid of individually. Started reading your site and realized that the
spots must also be a problem. I've cut back the plant but there are
too many to just cut off. I realized that they can be picked off with
my naills but it's a bit daunting due to the size of the plant. I have
it in a east south and west facing loft window - there really isn't a
better spot due to the size. I water every ten days. It is very root
bound but just added a top layer of new soil. Do you have any thoughts
about what I may be dealing with. Thankyou so much for your time.
Answer
It looks to me like a scale problem. Try the alcohol and sponge method mentioned in the earlier question and my answer on scale.
For mealy bugs .. if they are mealy bugs .. you can also spray them with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water also as mentioned in my earlier answer on the same subject.
You seem to be doing everything right. We all face pest problems sooner or later. Maybe checking the plant more frequently would turn these up before they have a chance to spread.
Root bound is good. This plant prefers to be root bound.
16.2.09
Subject: Variegated Agave propagation
Jerry L. - USA
What do you know about propagating agaves or "Quadricolor" from leaf cuttings? Last summer when I wrote you asking about the correct name of "Quadricolor," I was in the process of repotting my two plants. I took off several older leaves and reset the plants. I propagated all the old leaves as leaf cuttings, and all died except one. And since then, it hasn't done anything except sit there. I haven't checked for roots.
Answer
According to all my information sources .. variegated agaves cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings. The plants will, however, produce variegated offsets.
If anyone knows of any information that would dispute this .. I'd love to hear from you. And what about agaves that are not variegated? Once again my references say they too cannot be propagated from cuttings yet I see on the internet some say they can be propagated in that way.
12.2.09
Subject: EPI advice please
Craig S. - USA
I finally got the courage to prune my epi as you suggested and now have a few more questions. I started by removing the
stems which I found what I believe is scale &the brownish bumps on the underside of the stems. Have I identified this correctly?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
Good idea to get rid of the stems with the scale as you were pruning.
Yes, it looks like scale to me.
What causes the scale..soil conditions, external environment, growing conditions, cold winter environment? I tried scraping the bump off with my finger nail on a removed stem and it looked like it would leave a bruise.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea. Different types of scale are attracted to different plants. It doesn't have anything to do with environment as far as I know. One possibility .. you might have brought them in on another plant? Removing scale always leaves a mark. You can use a soft sponge soaked in alcohol to rub them off which would cause less damage than your fingernail.
Your article says scale can be treated with insecticidal soap or sprayed with a water/isopropyl alcohol mixture.
You suggest a couple of tablespoons of isopropyl alcohol with water & 2 tablespoons mixed with how much water?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A regular spray bottle holds around 20 ounches (568 ml). You could fill this with water and add 2-4 tablespoons of alcohol. I'd start with 4 since you seem to have a bit of an infestation.
Do you spray the entire plant top and bottom surfaces with a fine spray or soaking spray until dripping?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
A fine spray top and bottom of leaves is fine. I'd water a little into the soil as well.
Which method do you suggest I start with?
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I'd try the alcohol/water treatment first. The insecticidal soap is more work since it has to be rinsed off after a couple of days. Sticky you know.
I also found a critter that was chewing holes in a few stems &..black bug (mealy bug?) in a web directly under a leaf he was working on.
Answer
Craig S. - USA
I have no idea what this is cause I can't see it. Mealy bugs are white. This may be spider mite but usually you can't see those without a magnifying glass. They do, however, chew pieces out of plants.
My last question/concern&you can see from the pictures how much material I removed from the plant. I think that I removed most if not all of the scale, but I stopped pruning because of concern of shocking the plant. Did I prune too much? Would you still recommend further pruning to open up the plant more?
I hope that the next pictures I send you are of blooming.
Answer
It is not wise to prune more than 1/3 of the plant at a time to keep shock to a minimum. I think you pruned it enough for now.
10.2.09
Subject: Aeonium leaf drop
Ann L. - USA
I have a problem with my Aeonium plant. All the bottom leaves keep drying up and falling off. Makes a mess everywhere.
Answer
This leaf drop is natural. The dead leaves do make a bit of a mess but if your plant ever flowers, I think you will be glad to tolerate a little clean-up now and again. Try putting your plant, pot and all, into a container bigger than the pot and the dead leaves will fall into it and clean-up is then minimal. All you have to do is empty out the container occasionally.
3.2.09
Subject: The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson
Vickie H.. - USA
For serious cactus people, I noticed that Amazon has The Cactus Family by Edward F. Anderson (hard cover) at much lower prices than I've seen before. Shipping may be included. For pricing and details click here:
Amazon Books - UK
...................
Amazon Books - USA
30.1.09
Subject: Alluaudia ascendens - rooting cuttings
Vickie H.. - USA
I have owned (or rather, HAD) a beautiful specimen Alluaudia Adceudens for about five happy years. I bought it when it was a 6" baby (at a Strybing Arboretum plant sale), and grew to a glorious and robust 3'. I kept it outside in bright (not direct) sun all spring and summer. Summer temps would exceed 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit for weeks at a time, and my plant thrived. For winter, my practice was to bring it inside when night temperatures approached the low 50sF. I always kept it in my large and airy, fairly dim, but not very humid, bathroom over the winter.
I thought, this year I will be nicer to my friend, and put it in my warmer, sunnier front bedroom for the winter. As I was doing this, I noticed with alarm that the top half inch had shriveled. This observation assured me that I was making a good move by providing a more comfortable situation. I carefully pruned off the dead portion, noting that there was healthy green tissue below the cut. Alas! A few weeks later, the lower portion near, but not in, the soil seemed to be collapsing!
I fear that I have only one choice: try to salvage what appears to be a healthy mid-section. May I, with any hope, treat it as cacti with a similar symptoms? Meaning, treat the cut end with rooting hormone, expose to air for a few days, then attempt to root?
Any suggestions? Should I give up now, and purchase a new one to try to soothe my loss?
Thanks!
Answer
Yes you can treat it as a cutting as you describe and try to root it. It may take a while so be patient. On the other hand, since there is collapse top and near bottom of the main stem, it could be the middle portion has also been affected but just not to the point where you can see the damage. If that is so I'm afraid the plant may be a gonner.
It sounds to me like the plant has had too much moisture .. your bathroom is probably a lot more humid than you realize or there is more humidity than the plant enjoys having. Fairly dim light over winter may have added to the problem.
30.1.09
Subject: EPI leaf curl
Craig S. - USA
I am a novice at EPI s&&
Is there a reason that many of the leaves on my epi have a curl to them? The curl shown in the pictures developed while it was outside this summer
The attached pictures were taken yesterday 1/28/09 in the garage&..I live in Portland, Oregon
I have had the plant for 3 years&the first 2 years it was indoors 100% of the time. It seem to grow well but on the thin and spindly side. Last year I repotted to a larger pot with fresh soil and placed outside in June hanging under the eave, where it remained until early November.
At that time I moved it into the garage to avoid light frosts at night. The plant really took off with lots of new growth, much larger and thicker leaves and good bright color. I don t know if it was the repotting or being outside that made such a difference&probably both.
I fertilized with a 10-10-10 once a month while it was outside. I have only watered it lightly once a month since moving it into the garage.
It does not get below 40 degrees in the garage and it is getting about 10 hours of florescent light each day&..no windows in the garage.
The plant has not yet bloomed&.I am hoping it will this year since wintering in the cooler, darker environment.
The lighter yellow on the leaves is from the camera flash&.the leaves are a consistent green.
When should the buds start showing so that I can be watching for them? I have read that you should not move the plant once the plant starts setting buds?
What causes the main leaf to form many offset leaves? Is this good or bad for blooming? Should they be cut off and to what effect?
Any comments as to overall health of the plant and suggestions to help promote blooming?
I appreciate you time and efforts and am looking forward to your responses.
Thank you,
Answer
Craig
That's some gorgeous plant you have there.
With regard to the curling of the leaves .. ruling out that the white patches are a camera problem and not on the leaves themselves which might indicate powdery mildew .. or pests .. all I can think of is that the curling leaves, as you will notice, are all on the same side of the plant and all the curlers face the same direction. When it was outside under the eave did that side of the plant get less light than the other? Was it facing against the house while the opposite side faced away from the house where there was more light? They might have been changing shape in the process of reaching out for more light. That is a process called etiolation. The same thing can happen to a plant under fluorescent lights if all parts of the plant are not getting an equal amount of light or a sufficient amount of light.
You mention it now has a cooler, darker environment. Without seeing it and how much light it is actually receiving I can't say if lack of light is the problem. However, epis do need the brightest light possible year round.
It seems late to bring the plant indoors in November. If the temp outside is below 50F, preferably 55F or even 60F, since Epis are tropical plants, they do not take kindly to less than warm temperatures. I wager in the garage "at not below 40F" your epi is not a happy camper. Resulting troubles do not always show up immediately with succulents.
I can't tell you when your plant will bloom. Different epis bloom at different times but most bloom in spring.
All your questions about blooming, watering, fertilizing, pruning (and special soil requirements) are answered in my article on this web site Epiphyllums ... Epi Hybrids ... Orchid Cactus
Your plant look happy and healthy but I think it is far too dense. I would do some judicial pruning to open it up some. You could remove those 'leaves' on 'leaves'. All I can think about those is that the plant has had too much nitrogen which is also why your plant has become so luscious and dense with all those overlapping 'leaves'. If it does flower there won't be enough space for them to develop.
Yes, once you see flower buds .. don't move the plant or buds may drop off.
Three important things about getting your plant to bloom (also in my article) is to provide several weeks of short days before spring begins. Do not over-pot the plant. It prefers to be pot bound. And provide a soil mix that has an acid reaction.
Do read my above mentioned article and if you have any other questions, let me know.
WOW....thanks for the quick response. I will go back and read your article on your website more thoroughly and check to see when and how to prune (thin).
The curl did develop last summer......one side was towards the house and I did not rotate the plant much....I will this year.
Thanks again for your advice.
30.1.09
Subject: Cold hardy cacti in planters
Jerry L. - USA
Please suggest a long-term potting mix suitable for cold-hardy cacti that are left outdoors all year in planters. Thank you.
Answer
I recommend this page on the Brooklyn Botanic Garden web site .. on growing cold hardy cacti including those in planters.
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/plants/handbooks/cacti/hardycacti.html
30.1.09
Subject: Is it a Hoya?
Tony M. - UK
I was given a small plant about 4 inches high about 35 - 40 years ago. I didn`t know then what it was but it grew and grew. Over the years my plant has had upwards of 75 - 100 blooms at a time which you can imagine look beautiful. I am sure it is indestructible as it weathers below zero temperatures in my conservatory in the winter to 120 degrees F or more in the summer months when the sun is on the glass I have hacked it with very sharp scissors, had it turn upside down when dropped on the floor and it has even suffered severe rain, wind and whatever the weather cares to throw at it when I put it outside during June to September. The only downside to this gorgeous plant is, I can`t put it in my house as the honey-type sap is so sticky, but this is my only complaint. I can`t remember how many cuttings I have taken from it, but I do know that the people I have given the cuttings to don`t have such a beautiful display as my plant. The only help I have received on how to look after it was from someone who knows little about it, but he did say water well in the winter and not so much in the summer. In other words water the other way round from how you would look after any other plant.
Answer
I would love to see a photo of your plant because I suspect it is not an orchid cactus but rather it may be a Hoya. The former does not drip sticky sap but hoyas do. I found that out the hard way. Many years ago my first Hoya was hung over a very expensive antique table. After a couple of weeks of drip, drip, drip, I no longer owned an expensive antique table. What a mess!
The conversation we were having here about when to water was mainly about plants that are spring and summer growing and which we have to keep in a cold location during winter months (cold greenhouse, cold garage, etc.). The same plants if grown in a warm house all through winter (some houses are kept very warm) should have a little water now and again because indoor heat can dry up the plant and the roots far worse than plants left dry in a cool environment.
Plants which normally grow in winter and rest in summer require a different watering schedule. If a plant grows in winter, it needs water and it needs some warmth during those months. Hoyas are not winter growers although they enjoy a little water in winter now and again providing some warmth can be provided. They grow and flower some time during the period spring through to fall. They tolerate a wide range of different temperatures from very cool to very hot. Orchid cacti would cook in your greenhouse at 120F.
In general hoyas prefer a minimum winter temperature of 45F but will tolerate cooler temps if kept dry. Too cold for too long and some leaf loss can occur.
Another reason I think you have a Hoya and not an orchid cactus is because orchid cactus do not like full sun. You say your plant does enjoy the sunshine.
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Hank C. - USA
I have been subscribing to that Digest for years. It has information you just won't find anywhere else, particularly on caudiciforms
26.1.09
Subject: Amateurs Digest content
Jim J. - UK
I would like to subscribe to your Digest but I am only interested in caudiciforms.
Answer
There is information in every issue on caudiciforms but obviously the issues are not devoted solely to one type of plants. I guess it's a matter of you deciding if the low cost of a subscription ($15.00) is worth getting that information as well as the rest.
26.1.09
Subject: Winter watering
Jerry L. - USA
My garage is cold but doesn't freeze. I overwinter many plants in there. They, too, shrivel as mentioned by Arlene W. But I water my plants usually about twice during the winter. It may depend on where she is located, but some water may be beneficial to prevent too much desiccation. What do you think?
Answer
Jerry
This is a very tricky subject. Your point about preventing too much desiccation is well taken. And you are right that a lot depends on growing conditions of the plants in various locations. Since you are an experienced grower you know how to judge if you will give the plants a little water in winter but for the less experienced person I feel it is safer to advise them to just leave the plants dry until early spring. There is the risk of some desiccation (roots dying) but those roots will regenerate quickly in the next warm growing season. It is comforting to know that while the plants are shrivelling they are not growing but are having a rest. Many believe that rest is important to encourage flowering the following growing season.
I have never over-wintered cacti in a garage but I would think the light there for several months would be way less than the plants would normally need and I'd guess the soil would take some time to dry out so I'd be afraid to water them at all. That is not to say you are wrong to water yours. The fact that you do so successfully is what makes the whole subject so interesting.
You are correct...maybe much of it is experience. However, I do use shop lights in the garage, on timers, for at least some light. They are under definitive short days; 10 hours light. And, you are also correct in that they don't dry out fast, which is why only one or two waterings during the winter is sufficient. And they are not thorough waterings at that, just enough to provide some water. At watering time, for example, the water given to them runs right through the mix. But enough of it stays in the mix, coupled with the coolness, that it clings to the mix particles, raises humidity, roots "take it up," and etc. But they do very well in these conditions: cool, dry, not enough light to encourage growth, long enough periods of darkness to not encourage growth, etc.
As I'm writing this, and not putting that much thought into it, I can't think of anywhere, at least in the continental USA, that has such totally dry winters/dormant seasons without any water at all. Plus, to add to the tricky-ness of this subject, oftentimes during the growing season (e.g.. summer) the plants are under more water deficit stress than the dormant season.
Our native Opuntia (here in the Kansas City area), such as the ones on my 20 acre property about one hour south of where I live, do just fine with our environmental conditions. And they don't actually grow in dry conditions or locations. Some of the best clumps are in the wetter areas! Same with OUR NATIVE Yucca species. On a side note, don't believe it when people or catalogs say that Yucca is deer resistant, those deer love Yucca! Especially the flower stalks! Yummy to them, must taste like large Asparagus!
Ahh, the bigger picture is so blurry. And I agree that it may be better for many people to give them a more cut-and-dry answer. I, too, do that for people who ask questions.
Yes, a tricky subject indeed! :)
25.1.09
Subject: Shrivelling opuntias
Arlene W. - USA
You told me not to water my opuntias if I keep them in a cold greenhouse (around 40F). I followed your instructions but now the plants are shrivelling. What should I do?
Answer
That's okay. Opuntias tend to shrink and shrivel when very cold .. which means they are reducing their water content.This helps protect them from freezing. In another few weeks when the temperature warms up you can start watering them again and watch them plump up nicely.
24.1.09
Subject: Aloe ramosissima
Mick S. - USA
Question for you. I have several Aloe ramosissimas that I am training in bonsai pots--very nice plants. It took a while to figure out how to grow them--I killed a number before I figured that out. I bought them from Gene at Plants for the Southwest in Tucson--nice plants.
At any rate, I'm wondering if you have any experience air layering them. I have found them very difficult to strike as cuttings, w/ a 100% rot rate. Gene confirms this. I thought that trying to air layer them rather than kill another attempting a cutting might work. Any help in this regard?
Answer
I've never tried air layering aloes and have not heard of anyone who does this. I suppose you could try but if not done just right you stand to lose the entire plant. It is also a very slow process.
This species is highly susceptible to rot (which you found out) .. so rooting cuttings could well be a problem. You could try the 'over the water' method where water doesn't touch the cuttings at all. Good results have been had with this procedure.
Fill a small jar about half full of water. Poke a hole in the lid (big enough to allow a cutting to go through) and insert a cutting (dry it first) far enough in that it does not actually touch the water. Try just one cutting and see how it works.
Failing that all I can suggest is to plant your cuttings after thoroughly dry. Do not water. Instead put a "little" water in the pot saucer. That will get wicked up in the soil but not so high as to touch the cutting. It is moisture too near the cuttings that seems to encourage rot.
24.1.09
Subject: Planting Orchid Cactus cuttings
Sheila L. - USA
I just received 2 clipping of "Master of Mars" orchid cactus. Which end should I put in the soil- the narrow or wider one- or does it matter?
Do the cuttings in these photos look like they are ready to be planted or should I still wait as they need to dry more?
Answer
30.12.08
The cuttings might root if you plant them upside down but it is far preferable to plant the right end in the soil so that the plant can assume it's normal growth form.
I've marked the cuttings (with an X) for you to show which ends to plant. The missing photo was not clear enough for me to see which end was which. I'm sure from the ones I have marked you will know what to do.
The very narrow ends seem ready to plant but I can't see from the photos if the wider cuts are dry enough. To be on the safe side I'd wait a few days before planting those.
When the end to be planted is really really small, it is often better to slice a piece off to make that end wider to accommodate more roots to better support the plant as it grows. And of course let the cut callous over before planting. If cuts are not dry enough and water can get in .. rot will follow.
Subject: Pups and plants
Louise M. - Australia
I have the most wonderful Epiphyllum growing inside in a very light
area at The Gold Coast in Queensland Australia grown from a cutting
given to me by my cousin.
Recently I acquired a gorgeous puppy who unfortunately adores it too.
My question here is can the leaves be poisonous? I do my best to curb
the pup's enthusiasm but some leaves still get partly eaten.
Interesting also is that I brought the cutting from Melbourne which
meant it travelled in my suitcase for approx. 7 hours in all, and
although looking very worse for wear for maybe a month, took off and
never looked back. Even the puppy bites dont seem to be affecting it
adversely.
Look forward to you response. Best regards
Answer
Congratulations on your Christmas puppy. As far as I know the stems (leaves) of Epiphyllum are not poisonous to animals.
I personally prefer to keep my pets away from all my plants just to be on the safe side. We don't always know if somebody has treated their plants with pesticides (systemics in particular) which means the stems/leaves and even cuttings could carry some trace or more of these.
Your plant will surely look and do better without being constantly nibbled. Chomping leaves is the same as cutting off leaves and this will stress the plant which in turn might refuse to flower when the time comes. In the meantime puppy might be telling you it loves greens and would appreciate a green veggie in his/her diet.
Happy New Year.
27.12.08
Subject: Potting Question
Paul G.
You have a very informative web site - thanks for making it available!
I received two Orchid Cacti (which now I know are epi's) that were
potted with a schefflera. I repotted, and to be safe, just took all
three together since I had not identified the epi's yet.
While the light requirements of each seem compatible, my hunch is
that the epi's would ideally require different soil and watering -
but is this worth the disruption? Thanks
Answer
My pleasure. Glad to hear you find our web site useful.
No. 1 worry I have about growing Orchid Cacti with a Schefflera is because the Schefflera is prone to spider mite. I would keep that one a distance from any other plants.
No. 2 worry would be that as they grow they will mix together rather than develop their own form. Both can become fairly large in time.
No. 3. Light requirements are about the same but soil is not. Orchid Cacti need a more acid soil mix than does Schefflera.
No. 4. Orchid cacti like to be pot bound. Schefflera does not although some would argue that point since it is sometimes grown as bonsai in which case plant and roots are often pruned.
Given the above, I would say it is well worth it to separate the plants. I would even separate the epis because they look so much better when bigger when grown in their own pots. You don't want multiple stems overlapping each other which would cut out a fair amount of light.
Happy Holidays.
21.12.08
Subject: A very special story of friendship and sharing
Ruth Ann W.- USA
I received an Epi hybrid several years ago when my boss and I were moving away. The Epi came to reside at my store and every May it would bless me with beautiful flowers. I loved showing off my plant to my customers and those that were interested I would give them a cutting. I did not know the name of the plant until recently when I discovered a picture of a plant that looked a lot like mine. It referred to it as an orchid cactus. So I went on the Internet to see what I could find about Orchid Cactus. That is when I found your wonderful informative website
.On May 4, 2007 an EF5 tornado stuck Greensburg, KS and destroyed our Bulk Food Store. I rummaged around in the debris looking for anything salvageable, hoping I might find something. I did not find any sign of my Epi.
In August, Jan came to see me bringing me a surprise. I had given her a cutting and now she was bringing me my plant back. Then in Oct. Carolyn called to say she had left a plant for me to pick up, another Epi for me. I am really looking forward to seeing the Epis in bloom; hope I won't be disappointed. I will send you a picture. I never dreamed giving away cuttings would give me back my special plant.
21.12.08
Subject: Is the On Line Digest technical?
Gillian W. - USA
I was thinking to join your Digest but want to know how technical it is. I've tried others and they were way too difficult for me to understand. I worry about ever figuring out plant names.
Answer
Our Digest is both for and by amateur hobbyists. It is not the same as highly technical publications which have an important place in our hobby too. We do use botanical plant names but in most cases when you see the plant name you see a photograph of the plant too. I know beginners find the names difficult but think of it like this. Most of us are familiar with not so easy names like Rhododendron and Hibiscus because we see or hear about them fairly frequently. The same applies to the names of succulents. The more you see them the more easily familiar they become.
Articles, photos and other information in our Digest are provided by very friendly amateur hobbyists all over the world. The whole purpose of our publication is to share information and photos with each other which makes our publication really unique.
If I can help further let me know.
20.11.08
Subject: Christmas Cactus flowering
Nancy B.
I have a Christmas cactus/Thanksgiving cactus - whatever that is about 5
years old and it does not bloom.
It is by a window but does not get drect sun. What should I do to make
it bloom or does it need a companion?
Any help appreciated
Answer
It is important that the plant have several weeks of short days to encourage it to bloom. That means total darkness - not interrupted by lights in the house. The easiest thing to do is to throw something over it like a plastic garbage bag when it starts getting dark outside late afternoon. Take the cover off in the morning when it is getting light again outside. Keep doing that every day until you see buds form. When buds form don't move the plant around because that could encourage bud drop.
It must also have very bright light during daylight hours. Too much shade can also deter flowering.
Good luck. Send me a picture when it is in full bloom!
17.11.08
Subject: Sedum ID needed
I really enjoyed visiting your Succulent webpage, and I am hoping you can
help me identify a Succulent plant that was in my family for over 40 years,
but unfortunately was eaten up by hungry rodents last year when it was
housed inside during a particularly bad winter.
I am enclosing it's pictures. The plant was
purchased in San Antonio, TX over 40 years ago, and sadly the last surviving
plant was eaten by rodents last year, so I am hoping someone can identify it
so I may look for it online and purchase another one, as I had a great emotional
attachment to this plant as it was my deceased mothers favorite. I have never seen
another one in any store or online, and I have been looking everywhere. It
also put out tiny white star shaped flowers every year.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Answer
This is a Sedum - possibly Sedum album micranthum 'Chloroticum'. Sedums are difficult to identify. There are many man made cultivars.
This is a reliable web site source for sedums where you will find either this plant or something very much like it.
http://www.squawmountaingardens.com/product.cfm?startrow=41&CID=1
Note: Ray Stephenson, author of Sedum: Cultivated Stonecrops, thinks the plant is the Mexican Sedum diffusum.
16.11.08
Subject: Dark tarp not a good idea for epis
Mary - USA
Hi I have many question concerning my eppies, but first I need to know how the affects are of keeping my eppies in a greenhouse year round as I have no trees in my yard to keep them and I have over 100 in my collection. I have a dark tarp over just the top of my greenhouse but much filtered light gets in through the sides of it. I only have 3-4 large plants and the rest are still rather young plants, but non have bloomed yet other than my night blooming cactus which produced one flower and another on the way. Is keeping my plants in this greenhouse year round having a bad affect on my plants? I do have a fan to allow for much air circulation but Im afraid the tarp may be too much darkness for them, I'm just not sure. I'm hoping for blooms this spring from my few larger plants but I just don't know if it will happen for me. Any idea?
Answer
A dark tarp will cut out too much light. Epis do not like full sun but they still need very bright light to grow well and encourage blooming.
If you could find 50/50 shade cloth for the roof of your greenhouse it would be much better than a dark tarp. As long as you have good air circulation there is no problem keeping the plants in the greenhouse year round
2.11.08
Subject: Sedum morganianum - Burro's Tail
I am rather pleased with this photo of what I believe to be Sedum morganianum, 'Burro's tail' . He's happy in a basket in full sun here in sub-tropical Queensland Australia. He also seems to propagate very easily from dropped segments, just shoved into a loose potting mix. Takes a few months but then kicks on nicely.
Answer
Yes, Colin, it is Sedum morganianum. It is difficult to repot this plant. Segments fall off too easily. To control that happening let the plant totally dry out and leave it like that for a couple of days.
Thanks for sharing a great photo.
1.11.08
Subject: Agave attenuata
Min M.
Hello from Melbourne.I have 3 large and 1 very large Agave Attenuata all planted in pots and growing beautifully,however as the pots are under the eaves of the house all the plants have of course grown toward the sun.The stems are between 60cm to 70cm but are bending toward the sun and with the weight of the plant head the plants are not looking as stunning as they once did.Can I cut the stems off and re-plant?? If that is possible can you re-plant the left over root base?? Cheers.
Answer
The reason why your plants appear to be growing toward the sun may not be the sun. This Agave is known for having a stem that bends over as the plant matures. It is sometimes called the Swan Neck Agave. In some cases the rosette is just about lying on the ground. You can cut the stems off, make sure the cut is thoroughly dry before planting again. The problem is you will be in for the same problem all over again as the plants mature.
You could also keep the root base and hope more shoots will grow from it.
27.10.08
Subject: Epiphyllum german empress
Thank you again for your assistance in the identification and suggested treatment for my German Empress.
She still looks a little straggly and not quite her beautiful self but the good news is that she is sending up fresh clean shoots and so when she finishes flowering, I will be able to start a new basket from the cuttings.
Your help was very much appreciated
22.10.08
Subject: Winter growers
Joan W. - USA
Can you tell me which plants grow in winter?
Answer
I can give you a list of ones I know grow in winter but there may be others.
From: The Amateurs' Digest Vol. 17 Issue 3 November 2005, Supplement Section.
Adromischus, Aeonium, Aichryson, Aloe, Anacampseros, Astroloba, Avonia, Bowiea, Bulbine, Ceraria, Conophytum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Dactylopsis, Dioscorea, Dudleya, Fouquieria, Gasteria, Gibbaeum, Graptopetalum, Graptoveria, Greenovia, Haemanthus, Haworthia, Kalanchoe, Monanthes, Neohenricia, Othonna, Pachycormus, Pachyphytum, Pachyveria, Pelargonium, Peperomia, Pilea, Portulacaria, Sansevieria, Sarcocaulon, Sedeveria, Sedum, Senecio, Sphalmanthus (Phyllobolus), Stomatium, Talinum, Tylecodon.
Please note:
It is not uncommon for a plant to change its growing habit and revert from being a winter grower to a summer grower and vice-versa.
Winters growers have a dormant period in summer's warmest months. Perhaps calling them winter growers is a bit of a push because they actually grow during autumn and spring. In real winter months when days are shortest they produce minimal growth.
13.10.08
Subject: San Pedro with black spots
Mauricio S. - USA
I just picked some clippings of san pedro cactus. I planted them and
now the clippings are full of pimple like back spots. Please help I
do not want my plants to die.
Answer
When you take cuttings you must let the cuttings dry until the open wound is calloused over so moisture can't get in to where the open wound is. You can't take cuttings and plant them immediately - otherwise the cuttings will rot .. and I think the black spots are a sign of that starting.
11.10.08
Subject: Uncarina peltata (Madagascar)
Jerry L. - USA
What is the trick to bringing into flower Uncarina peltata?
Answer
I know of no trick that will make the plant bloom. When it is mature enough to flower it will, providing it has the right growing conditions. Is it getting enough light? Are you feeding it? Is the soil adequate, etc.
I asked Jerry about his growing conditions for the plant.
1. How big is the plant you have?
About 3.5' tall, single stem, base is about 3" thick, with nice slightly peeling bark.
2. What soil mix is it in?
My "special" mix! Really a generic, well draining mix.
3. What fertilizer do you use and how often?
This year, I have fertilized only twice (usually six to eight times per growing season...way too much rain this year on a regular basis to warrant additional irrigation at fertilization time). I use a program similar to institutions, where I fertilize with a stronger dose at a more infrequent time frame, usually about every two weeks during a normal growing season.
4. How much light/sun does it get?
Full sun from 11 am to sunset. Hot, painted deck; wilts during the day due to the heat. Indoors in the winter. But the plant is beautiful. Maybe just not mature enough.
Out of all of your answers, Jerry, something stands out to me. The plant wilts during the day due to the heat from a painted deck.
Every time this happens the plant is stressed out. This might well be the reason why the plant doesn't flower. If it is using all its resources to handle the stress .. which apparently it does .. there's little if any energy left to deal with flowering.
I would be inclined to move it where wilting can be avoided but where the plant will still have the same amount of light.
Subject: Epiphyllum oxypetalum
Terry
Hi! LOVE your website. So helpful in answering numerous questions. The elderly woman that gave me a green stick with no leaves two years ago, told me to cut off branches without leaves to initiate blooming which would happen when the plant has 12+ leaves. I forgot about her suggestion until this past spring, and my two plants (from the original stick) had several leafless branches. I cut them off, and this week have enjoyed five beautiful blossoms between the two plants which have 12 & 15 leaves.
Two questions: 1. I read that I shouldn't fertilize during the winter months, but I'm wondering about fertilizing to help the plant recoup after so many blooms on two young plants?
2. Should I let the finished blooms just dangle from the leaves or cut them off? Will they just dry up and fall off? After reading your website, I don't think mine will develop fruit as they are indoor plants in a northern climate.
Thanks you so much.
Answer
I've never heard of making this plant flower using that procedure. Any cuttings of the plant should root and eventually produce blooms.
There is no rule about feeding the plant after flowering but keep in mind once flowering is over, the plant wants to rest. Feeding is to encourage growth and flowering. The feeding should preferably be done in the weeks before it is expected to bloom.
Leave the flowers until they are really well dried out and they will come off with a slight tug. Or they will eventually fall off. Your choice.
Fruit will not develop without pollination.
14.9.08
Subject: Over wintering plants and Pereskia aculeata godseffiana
I am getting ready to bring my cactus and succulents in for the winter. Can you give me an idea of which I can leave in a cool room with little to now water and those that need to be in a warmer room, I guess they're called winter growing succulents? I know it's impossible to list them all but I appreciate any help you can give.
The attached picture has nothing to do with my question but I like it a lot. It does well both in and outdoors.
I just subscribed to your on line Digest and am wondering how long it takes to receive my code. I love your digest!
Answer
It is almost impossible to answer your question without knowing something about the plants you grow. Most desert cacti will do well at 45F minimum with little or no water through winter months. The "other" succulents, however, are another story. Some will be okay in a cool room and others will not. Could you send me a photo of your collection and maybe I can tell you more?
Yes, there are some plants which grow during winter and they need warmth at that time as well as watering and feeding. Not all plants that need warmth in winter, however, are winter growers.
I'm very pleased to hear you enjoy our Digest (print version). Your code will be sent to you shortly so you can access the new version on line September issue from our web site. I hope you enjoy that too.
Let me know if I can help further.
PS Your Pereskia needs a minimum of 50F through winter months. Less water than in spring and summer but don't let it totally dry out.
Please note: The ID I gave of Pereskia aculeata godseffiana .. may in fact have changed at some point. It is believed the name may now be Pereskia aculeata var. rubescens. I have, however, no way of verifying that. (Marina).
13.9.08
Subject: Slow Release Fertilizers
Gordon P. - USA
What do you think of slow release fertilizers?
Answer
They are quite popular and convenient to use. However, because they release their nutrients a little at a time each time a plant is watered, how often you have to water a plant determines how often the plant is being fed. For most cacti and succulents I personally feel it is wiser to use a liquid fertilizer which I can control and water down to the strength that suits the needs of whatever particular plant I'm feeding. Cacti and succulents do not take kindly to being over fed.
11.9.08
Subject: Rooting Agave attenuata
Chris W. - Australia
Hi, I have been given three very large plants that to the best of my knowledge (from researching the internet) I believe are Agave attenuata. The plant tops are at least 60cm wide and have been cut off at their stem (approx 6inch/150cm left.) I would like to repot these if possible to make features of them as they look magnificent. What if any special precuations should I take to ensure they survive. They will live out the front of my house and will recieve full sun almost all day. Thanks in advance Chris White
P.s Where i live in Queensland can get very hot in summer, temps can sometimes reach 40 degrees celsius. Will they withstand all day powerful sun/heat like this?
Answer
Congratulations. Not one but three prizes. Lucky you!
You should have no trouble rooting the plants. One of our members not long ago rooted the same Agave of fair size with great success. Actually they rooted so quickly I was quite amazed.
Make sure the cut ends of the stems are thoroughly dry and healed over before you plant them. If any water/moisture gets into those cut ends there is a risk of rot. If not sure leave them out in the air drying for a couple of weeks before you plant them.
Just insert the stems in well draining soil. Prop the plant up straight if necessary. You could lightly moisten the soil before you put the stems in but I would not thoroughly water the plants for at least a couple of weeks or even a month. After that water once a month or so until they are well rooted in the ground after which nature will take care of them except for an occasional watering.
I hope they have been in full sun before because if not and you suddenly put them in direct sunshine they could burn as a result. If they have been in a shady place until now you'd have to gradually move them to brighter and brighter light over a period of several weeks so they get used to the sun gradually. In that case you could prepare pots of well draining soil and sink the stems in those so you can move them .. until ready to go into the ground.
I don't see any reason why you could not grow them in hot sun .. providing they have been accustomed to or acclimatized to that much sun, are well ventilated and not crowded together with each other or other plants. I have known people who have grown them in full hot sun and also in semi (but not total) shade. They seem to do well in both situations. This Agave is from Mexico (Hidalgo).
Good luck. Send me a photo one day when they are all established.
6.9.08
